^^
techniques to Achieve
Naturatty JfeaCthy Jfair
United States Environmental Protection Agency
Pacific Southwest/Region 9
EPA-909-R-10-003
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Introduction
Healthy hair is not just a trend or fab, it simply never goes out of style. With the
pollutants, chemicals, weather conditions and styling techniques that affect your
hair every day, maintaining a beautiful mane can pose a challenge. The health of
your hair depends on a variety of factors, both internal and external. Hereditary
issues, illness, nutritional deficiencies, poor circulation, hormonal imbalance, stress
and environmental factors outside their control can adversely affect the health and
appearance of your hair. Once you understand the basics of hair health, you will be
able to develop a routine that is healthier.
As we have entered the "green movement" era, we are considering ways to green
every aspect of our lives including the use of hair care products and processes.
Some of these products may contain ingredients that are harmful to the environ-
ment, or harmful to the user.
Healthy hair is something that everyone in every culture strives to achieve regardless
of length and texture. Hair is as different as the people it belongs to and accepting
and knowing how to care for your hair is an important part of maintaining healthy
hair.
No one person has the same hair texture. Textures can range from tightly coiled
hair to straight and everything else in between. Determining your hair texture helps
you understand which styles work best to help you achieve that healthy head of
hair. People may have more than one texture type which makes hair care and
styling a challenge.
This guide shares information to achieve beautiful trendsetting styles, techniques
for maintaining and caring for your natural tresses, and information on chemical
ingredients and their potential effects on your hair and body. The guide also shares
tips on selecting safe, less toxic ingredients.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Know What's in Your Hair Products 2
What is the Texture of Your Hair? 3
Ingredients Table 4-5
Styles for Everyone 6-14
Natural Ingredients for Your Hair Care 15
Recipes to Try 16
Top Tips for Natural Hair Care 17
Frequently Asked Questions 18
How Green is Your Salon? 19
References and Resources.. 20
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Know What's in Your Hair Products
What's in your products?
Every day many of us use personal care products that contain potentially
harmful ingredients. Think about how many personal care products you
use in a single day, a year and over your lifetime. Small amounts of toxic
chemicals add up and can accumulate in our bodies.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not approve the
safety of personal care products before they are sold. Of t'ie ^0,500
chemical ingredients used in the personal care products, just 11% have
been assessed for health and safety. Hundreds of chemicals - some
safe and some known to be hazardous - are present in our personal
care products. Because countless new compounds are developed each
year, it's hard for even the most savvy consumers to know about them all.
is that there are some easy and affordable alternatives available to every
The good news
consumer.
Many companies are now making less toxic products and are striving to introduce non-
toxic products. Nonprofit organizations such as the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics encourage
the cosmetics industry to pay attention to consumer demands for safer products.
This guide aims to give you some general information on natural hair care techniques, to
help point you in the right direction when selecting products and to inspire you to make a
few small changes in your hair care and styling routine that will be healthier for your body.
Natural/Organic Products
The word "natural" on a product label doesn't always mean
it's safe or natural. Many products are being marketed as
natural and/or organic but have chemical ingredients that raise
health concerns. Reviewing the ingredients on the label is
one way to be sure the product is true to its claims. Be aware
that potentially problematic chemical ingredients can hide
behind the word "Fragrances." Fragrances are considered
trade secrets and the ingredients within fragrances are not
required by law to be revealed and may represent many ingre-
dients, sometimes hundreds. "Unscented" and "fragrance free"
have no legal definition, these words can be used in a variety
of ways. "Unscented" or "fragrance free" labels does not guarantee that the product doesn't
contain potentially toxic chemicals. Before purchasing products you may want to visit the
Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Safety Database* or Goodguide** to research
products to find the safest alternatives.
*www.safe cosmetics.org
"http://www.goodguide.com
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What is the Texture of Your Hair?
Webster's dictionary defines "texture" as: the surface look or feel of something;
the basic makeup of a surface; distinctive or identifying characteristics.
Texture is simply what you see and feel. '*' s the actual straightness, curliness, softness, roughness and/
or coarseness of the hair's surface. There are four basic hair textures: tightly coiled, wa Vy straight and
very curly. ^ or this guide's purposes grey hair has been included as a texture because of its different
growth pattern and difficulty to manage. Below are e xamples and descriptions of the different hair tex-
tures. We all have similar hair textures but no one texture is alike. Your hair texture is uniquely yours.
WA'
Tightly coiled hair is series of
spirals or curls wound tightly
together one on top of the other,
which gathers or retracts.
VERY
CU
Wavy hair has a wave patterned
outline and does not lay straight
but rather has side to side or up
and down curves.
Straight hair is perfectly vertical
or horizontal without a curve or a
bend.
Very curly hair has the same pat-
tern as wavy hair with a shorter
distance between the curve-like
bends which results in a tighter
look.
Grey hair has a texture all its own:
it may be very coarse and/or wiry.
Due to possible lack in Vitamin
B-12 and declining melanin pro-
duction it can also be very dry.
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Ingredients Table
POTENTIAL HEALTH IMPACTS ASSOCIATED WITH
OVEREXPOSURESTO INGREDIENTS USED IN HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
INGREDIENT
PRODUCT
POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS
Lead**
Hair
Lead has been associated with harmful impacts to virtually
every organ system in the body. Elevated exposures are
associated with severe central nervous system impacts
and potentially irreversible neurodevelopment delays and
behavioral changes in children. Elevated exposure levels
have also been associated with increased rates of mis-
carriage and reproductive toxicity.
2 Paraphenylenediamine**
Other names:
Para-Phenylenediamine;
PPD; P-Phenylenediamine;
1, 4 diaminobenzene;
1, 4 phenylenediamine;
P-Aminoaniline
Hair Dye
Exposure could cause mild dermatitis in contact location
including redness, pain, and swelling, and when in contact
with the eyes could possibly cause swelling of the eyelids,
blurred vision and possible permanent loss of vision.
Inhalation of this chemical may be associated with cough,
headache, dizziness and labored breathing. Possible
severe reactions to PPD are urticaria and, rarely, ana-
phylaxis.
3 Sodium Hydroxide**
Looks like this on a label:
Lye; Caustic Soda;
Sodium Hydrate
Relaxer,
Permanent,
Hair Wave
Overexposure is corrosive to all tissues and mucous
membranes such as in the eyes, nose, and throat. Con-
centrated exposures frequently result in extreme and severe
irritation, edema (swelling) and acute dermal reactions.
Direct contact with sodium hydroxide can result in con-
strictive scarring, and inhalation results in acute damage
to the pulmonary system.
1 Formaldehyde***
Looks like this on a label:
Formalin; formic aldehyde;
oxomethane; oxomethylene
Shampoo and
Bleach
Elevated exposures have been associated with irritation
and edema to the pulmonary system and mucous mem-
branes. Overexposure also irritates the eyes, nose and
skin, and repeated exposures have been associated with
a hypersensitivity (allergic) responses in some individuals.
The compound demonstrates carcinogenic activity.
Dibutyl Phthalates*
Looks like this on a label:
DBP; Di-n-butyl phthalate; dibutyl
1,2-benzene dicarboxylate
Fragrance for
shampoo and
moisturizers
Overexposure has resulted in gastrointestinal distress in
humans. The compound has caused birth, reproductive
and developmental impacts in animals. Some phthalate
compounds have carcinogenic activity in animals.
4 Hydantoin DMDM***
Looks like this on a label:
1-3-Bis (Hydroxymethyl)-5,5-
imethylimidazolidine-2,4-Dione;
1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-Dimethyl
Hydantoin; Dantogard; Glydant;
Gidol; Glycolylurea
Children's
conditioner and
detangler
Overexposure has resulted in irritation and edema in
sensitized individuals. Irreversible damage to the eye has
been reported due to its caustic nature. Considered harmful
to human health because of toxic impact on developmental
and reproductive systems. This compound is an antimicro-
bial formaldehyde releasing agent.
Colorants/Synthetic Colors***
Looks like this on a label:
D&C; FD&C; azo grenadine;
disodium 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-
(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-
disulfonate; Acid Red 33;
Red 33; Naphthalene Red
Makeup and hair
products to create
color; some are
derived from coal
tar.
Some specific dyes and color compounds have been
associated with carcinogenic activity at extremely elevated
concentrations. Some of these compounds have also been
associated with edema and irritation in hypersensitive
individuals.
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Ingredients Table
POTENTIAL HEALTH IMPACTS ASSOCIATED WITH
OVEREXPOSURESTO INGREDIENTS USED IN HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
PRODUCT
POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS
DEA/MEA/TEA**
Looks like this on a label:
Diethanolamine;
monoethanolamine;
ethanolamine;
triethanolamine;
Lauramide DEA
Shampoos and
products that foam
Elevated exposures have been associated with irritation to
the eyes, skin, nose and throat. These compounds have
been associated with limited edema and irritation to the
pulmonary system in some individuals.
1 Hydroquinone*
Looks like this on a label:
4-Dihydroxybenzene;
P-Dioxybenzene;
4-Hydroxyphenol;
P-Hydroxyphenol;
1,4 Benzendiol
Hair bleaches and
skin lighteners
Elevated exposures are associated with tinnitus (ringing in
the ears), nausea, shortness of breath, cyanosis and con-
vulsions. Edema and irritation to skin, eyes, nose, mucous
membranes and intestinal tract have also been reported.
3 Propylene Glycol***
Looks like this on a label:
Propylene Glycol;
1-2-Propanediol
Styling gels/lotions,
conditioners,
shampoos, hair
dyes3
Elevated or frequent exposure to propylene glycol is
associated with dermal irritation and limited edema of the
mucous membranes. Under repeated exposure conditions
it is irritating to the eyes, nose and mouth. The Food and
Drug Administration (FDA) has classified propylene glycol
as an additive that is generally recognized as safe for use
in food.
FOOTNOTES
*Animal studies reported.
**Human studies reported,
***Human and animal studies reported.
REFERENCES & RESOURCES
1. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Integrated Risk Information System (IRIS); U.S. EPA.
2. U.S. EPA Toxic Substance control Act (TSCA), http://www.epa.gov/opptintr/tsca8e/.
3. EPA Technology transfer network, http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/phenylen.html.
4. National Institute for Occupational Safety & Health (NIOSH); Pocket Guide to Chemical Hazards. U.S. Department
of Health & Human Services (DHHS).
5. Agency for Toxic Substances & Disease Registry (ATSDR) Toxicological Profiles; Center for Disease Control &
Prevention. U.S. Department of Health & Human Services (DHHS).
6. The Merck Index; an Encyclopedia of Chemicals, Drugs & Biologicals. Merck & Co., Inc.
7. FDA's List of Ingredients That People Often Ask About, http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandlngredientSafety/
SelectedCosmeticlngredients/default.htm.
8. National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, International Chemical Safety Cards,
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng0805.html.
9. Phthalates and Cosmetic Products, http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandlngredientSafety/SelectedCosmetic
Inqredients/ucm128250.htm.
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Natural Styles for Everyone
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Braided Pony Tail:
This is a very easy,
yet very fashionable
hairstyle.
Supplies: comb, flexi rod hair
rollers, natural pomade/oil
Both curly and tightly coiled hair
needs moisture, moisture, and
more moisture. Always condi-
tion your hair after washing and
choose conditioners thick in tex-
ture or use a leave in. When con-
venient let hair air dry. When
applying heat to the hair to style
use the lowest setting possible
to achieve desired result. Re-
member while selecting your hair
products to read the labels and
try to avoid products containing
hormones and harmful chemicals
(see pages 4 and 5).
•
* Simply part the hair into small
sections.
« Take each section and divide
into three strands.
Coat the hair with a pomade,
and/or oil.
* Coil the strands around each
other working from the roots to
the nape of the neck.
\
FACT
The average person
sheds up to 100
hairs a day!!!
• Repeat over the entire head.
* Grab sections a few braids at
a time and roll from ends up
with hair rolling rods.
• Allow to air dry or use a dryer
on lowest possible setting.
J Remove rods, finger separate
and apply oil.
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Rod Set:
This style is easily
achieved: it is a great
look for business or fun.
Supplies: hair clips, comb, flexi
rods, setting lotion, natural oil
The texture of your hair will de-
termine if you should set your hair
immediately after shampoo and
conditioning. If your hair is more
coarse or more fine, it should be
set immediately after rinsing the
conditioner. If you are using a
leave-in it should not be rinsed.
Start to section your hair and
roll from tip to root with rods in
the size of your choice. If your
hair is thicker and straighter
you should allow hair to air dry
or use a warm blow dryer until
it's just damp to cut down on
your dry time once the hair is
set.
Dry with the lowest possible
setting; once completely dry
unroll the rods and finger sepa-
rate, adding oil as needed.
Remember to choose the prod-
ucts based on your hair texture
and style desired.
FACT
The number of hairs
on the average
head is 100,000.
The less harmful beauty prod-
ucts you use, the more you
control your daily chemical ex-
posure.
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Crimped/Crinkled:
This can be easily done
without using too much
heat or chemicals such
as perms or texturizers.
Supplies: hair clips, comb, setting
lotion
Apply a moisturizer you have
carefully selected by reading
the ingredients, then part hair
into sections beginning at the
front of the hair line, ending at
the nape of the neck. Eacn
section should be approxi-
mately 1 to 2 inches in diam-
eter depending on preference.
Divide into two's and twist from
hairline to the end, picking up
pieces of hair as you twist back.
Once your hair is twisted, you
can add rods or use a clip or
rubber band to keep from un-
raveling.
Dry on the lowest possible
setting. When completely dry
unravel twists and style as
desired.
FACT
90% of scalp hairs
are growing and
10% are resting.
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Flat Iron:
This is a classic easily
maintained style, great
for women on the go.
Supplies: hair clips, ceramic flat
iron with temperature setting dial,
small toothed comb, natural oil,
hard bristled brush, and satin
scarf
Make sure your hair is washed
and completely dry before ap-
plying any heat.
Start at the nape of the neck
and part your hair into small to
medium sections from ear to
ear.
Grab a small section preferably
toward the back of your hair
approximately 2 inches in
diameter and gently rub iron on
the root of your hair.
If the hair sizzles or smoke
appears remove iron immedi-
ately and allow your hair to
cool and lower the setting on
the flat iron.
Clamp iron at the root of the
section and pull to the end,
curve the iron up or down to
achieve a bend at the tip of
hair.
FACT
The fastest growing
tissue in the human
body is hair.
• Repeat this process over entire
head from back to front.
• Once hair is straightened to
preference add oil and style as
desired. To maintain sleekness
wrap hair around the crown of
your head and sleep in a satin
bonnet or scarf.
10
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Natural Curls
Great for Jet-setters as
this style will hold in
almost any climate.
Supplies: wide tooth de-tangling
comb, natural oil, leave in condi-
tioner, blow dryer with diffuser
Many multi-ethnic people have
natural curls when their hair is
wet and would like to keep that
look once the hair dries. Remem-
ber to thoroughly moisturize the
hair and use proper products for
your hair type. As always don't
forget to read those labels.
For naturally curly hair with more
definition here's a great tech-
nique:
^
Wash hair at least one time per
week (the other days just
rinse).
Detangle hair each day by
using a leave-in conditioner
and combing through using a
wide tooh comb.
Saturate hair and apply a hair
oil.
FACT
Female hair grows
more slowly than
male hair.
Hair can be braided while
damp and let air dry if possible.
Once hair is dry, unbraid, add
a little oil and finger style.
In the winter use a diffuser on
the lowest temperature, gently
stretching the hair as you dry
it.
11
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Children
This style is low
maintenance, great for
kids and their parents
with hectic schedules.
Supplies: wide tooth comb for
detangling, small toothed comb
for parting, brush, and natural oil
The majority of children have
what is called "virgin hair." The
term virgin hair simply means the
hair has had no chemical pro-
cessing at all. Most children of
color or multi-ethnic children
often wear pony tails, braids, and
twists.
• When styling your child's hair
remember not to pull too tight-
ly, especially around the hair-
line.
• Make sure to maintain your
child's hair by washing and
conditioning 2-4 times monthly.
• Conditioning is a very impor-
tant step and should never be
skipped.
• Keep the ends trimmed as
needed to prevent breakage.
FACT
The lifespan of the
human hair is three
to seven years.
• Never perm, relax, or dye your
child's hair.
• Be sure to pay attention to the
ingredients in your shampoos,
conditioners, oils and any other
products used. This will help
to ensure you are not expos-
ing your child to unnecessary
chemicals.
12
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Locs/Dreadlocs
A natural style that
can be worn by males
and females. It's
versatile, and fairly
easy to manage.
Supplies: Small toothed comb,
natural pomade and/or oil, small
metal hair clips, and hair dryer
Locs are sometimes referred to
as dreads or dreadlocs. Anyone
can loc their hair using one of
the many techniques available.
Some techniques include hand
twisting, comb twisting, and palm
rolling. Latch Iocs and sister Iocs
both use a type of metal hook
needle for tightening. There are
many reasons various individuals
wear Iocs; some as an expression
of deep spiritual convictions, or
simply as a fashion preference.
Keeping your hair clean and well
maintained is beneficial for op-
timum healthy hair. Wearing Iocs
doesn't mean not grooming or
taking care of your hair and scalp,
so remember to use products
best suited for your hair texture,
always read the label and try to
select eco friendly products safer
for the environment and human
health.
• Wash and condition hair, while
still damp section off hair to
start your Iocs.
• The size you would like your
Iocs determines how large or
small the hair is sectioned off.
* Starting at the nape of the neck
take the parted section and
using the small toothed comb
pull through the hair applying
your pomade/oil and twist all
the way to the end.
• After the initial twisting with the
comb use both hands, placing
a loc between each flattened
palm, to do a rolling motion.
After the loc is twisted to your
liking, place a metal clip to hold
it in a flattened position in the
direction you want it to hang.
Repeat this technique over
your entire head, then sit under
the dryer at the lowest possi-
ble setting until your Iocs are
completely dry.
When hair is completely dry
remove metal clips, apply oil
and style as desired.
13
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Men's Styles
Men follow trends too. They don't
just wash and cut their hair. Po-
mades, mousse and gels are
used daily to achieve desired
styles. Lots of men dye their hair
to cover grey or just for style;
whatever the occasion any dyes
used should be carefully scruti-
nized, especially the darker hues.
Dyes that are darker in color may
contain significantly more dam-
aging chemicals than the lighter
shades.
Although dyes are a quick and
easy solution for grey hair, using
it too often and using it on facial
hair may be a potential health
hazard. When possible, look for
less toxic alternatives, such as
natural coloring agents or veg-
etable based colors.
Hair loss affects an estimated
40 million men and 20 million
women in the United States. "
hereditary condition called an-
drogenetic alopecia is respon-
sible for about ninety-five percent
of hair loss. Because men suffer
from hair loss at double the rate
of women they are more likely to
try products advertised on the
market that boast hair restora-
tion. Although genetic hereditary
issues are the main culprit for
alopecia, there are other factors
such as diet, medications, and
illness. There are several hair
styles that may address thinning
areas; however men who are less
comfortable with some of these
styles, have the option of shaving
their head. Men who want addi-
tional information for their hair
loss should seek medical atten-
tion first to determine its root
cause. Then, they can make a
more well-informed decision
regarding treatment options.
- --.
FACT
Did you know...male
hair is more dense
than female hair?
14
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Natural Ingredients for Your Hair Care
Shea Butter:
Comes from a tree native to Africa which has soothing, moisturizing
and protecting effects, also known as Butyrospermum Parkii.
displays a protective role against UV rays because of its cinnamic
acid content. Shea Butter returns luster to skin and hair, and also
protects the skin and scalp, especially in over-processed and/or heat
treated hair.
Chamomile:
Is a member of the daisy family and is an herb that purifies, calms
and soothes with virtually no adverse effects so it can be used for
long periods of time. The active ingredients in chamomile are called
essential oils and flavonoids which are good for healing skin and
scalp irritations.
Sunflower Oil:
Has high amounts of Vitamins A, B, D and E, minerals, lecithin, insulin,
and unsaturated fatty acids and is an excellent moisturizer because
of its emollients. Emollients are known to soften skin and hair without
leaving an oily residue.
Avocado Oil:
Is a rich heavy oil, more penetrating than most oils. It is therefore
good for dry hair and skin. It is obtained from the pulp of the avocado
pear and has a deep green color. It is stable, natural oil, rich in
vitamin E. Avocado also contains Vitamins A, B1, B2, D, and Beta
carotene. It is classified as monosaturated oil and is best suited for
dry hair and skin.
Witch Hazel:
Is extracted from the bark and leaves of the Hamamelis tree and is
an astringent and gentle cleanser which removes build-up on the
hair as well as the scalp; it also helps to fight dandruff.
Olive Oil:
Is obtained directly from the olive after it has been harvested. It is
made into a paste from which the oil is collected. Olive oil conditions
and improves the strength and elasticity of the hair, helping to prevent
breakage. It's also very good for "frizzy" and/or damaged hair.
Honey:
Naturally attracts and holds moisture. It is also a natural antisep-
tic and contains antioxidants. Honey is packed with vitamins and
minerals such as magnesium, potassium, calcium, sulphur, iron, zinc
and vitamins B1, B2, B3, which aid in hair growth. It can be added to
conditioners, rinses and pomades.
Aloe Vera:
Known as the true or medicinal aloe, aloe vera is a species of
succulent plants now widely used as a moisturizer and can also be
used as a gel to re-twist locked hair. Aloe Vera is also used for
soothing the skin, and keeping the skin moist while eliminating the
risk of flaky scalp in harsh and dry weather.
15
Shea Butter
Chamomile
Sunflower Oil
Avocado Oil
Witch Hazel
Olive Oil
Honey
Aloe Vera
-------
Recipes to Try
Avocado Conditioner:
Helps hair to shine
• Mix 1 small jar of real mayonnaise with avocado in a medium sized bowl.
• Squish the mixture with your hands until it turns a light green, minty color.
• Apply the mixture directly onto your hair, making sure you cover every strand from the scalp to the tip.
• Cover your head with a shower cap, and leave on for 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly.
• If you have naturally oily hair, you may want to wash your hair with a gentle shampoo afterward as well.
Olive Oil Conditioner:
Helps fight flyaways
• Pour a generous amount of your regular eco-friendly conditioner into your hand - enough so that it
covers your entire palm.
• Mix in 1-2 tablespoons of Extra Virgin Olive Oil into the conditioner. Use a mixing bowl if easier.
• Apply the mixture onto the bottom half of your hair, focusing on the ends.
• Gather your hair together so that it sits at the top of your head and cover with a warm wet towel.
• Leave on for 20 minutes, and then rinse out in the shower.
• If you have naturally oily hair, you may want to wash your hair with a gentle shampoo afterward as well.
Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse:
Helps get rid of residue build-up
• Mix 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar with 1 quart water (adjust ratio of vinegar to water according to amount
needed or frequency of use).
• Pour vinegar rinse through hair (scent will quickly dissipate).
• Re-rinse with cool water.
Homemade Hair Gel:
Helps Define Curls
• Mix 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of unfavored gelatin with 1 cup hot water.
• Lets set at room temperature until firm.
• Add a drop of essential oils or extracts for scent.
• Apply to wet or dry hair and style as desired.
16
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Top Tips for Natural Hair Care
Even with a nutritional diet and healthy hair-care regimen, underlying medica. can undermine your hair's
health. Stress and anxiety can contribute to dry, brittle hair and ultimately hair loss. If you suspect a health problem
is contributing to your lackluster hair, seek a health professional for treatment. Addressing any medical conditions
will improve the health and radiance of your hair and the rest of your body, too.
Wash
Shampooing every day can be drying to your hair and scalp. Aim for two to three times a week - and on off days.
Excessively using hot water will rob the scalp of its natural oils which help to keep your hair lubricated. Instead, use
lukewarm water and a gentle shampoo containing natural ingredients whenever possible.
Deep Condition
You should condition your hair after every wash. Rinse out conditioner with cooler water to lock in its hydrating
benefits close the cuticles.
Essential Oils/Massage
Essential oils are also considered good for hair because of their moisturizing and hydrating characteristics. You
can also oil your hair and gently massage your scalp for maximum penetration. If your hair needs more attention,
apply a hot-oil treatment.
Styling Tools
Excessive use of flat irons, curling irons, blow dryers and other heat styling tools can damage your hair. Use a heat
protective serum to prevent your hair from breakage and damage. Whenever possible, use lower heat settings
when styling; it will cut down on the amount of heat your hair has to endure. Style your hair with a wide-tooth comb
to prevent breakage. A wide-tooth comb with rounded teeth allows you to comb your hair comfortably without
scratching your scalp. Brush before shampooing. A few gentle strokes on dry hair will help remove product build
up and scalp flakes, as well as stimulate the scalp and promote blood flow (which delivers nutrients like oxygen) to
hair follicles.
Accessories
Hair accessories can accentuate hair styles by dressing it up or down. Take care in selecting hair accessories that
will not work against your hair goals. Cotton ponytail holders can soak moisture from your hair that you need.
Highly textured ponytail holders can tear the hair. Opt for silk or satin ponytail holders and avoid metal clasps.
Cut/Trim
The ends of our hair are the oldest part and is more susceptible to damage created by styling manipulation. As
much as it hurts some to part with length, split ends are not beneficial to the progress towards healthy hair. Split
ends cannot be mended. The only solution is to cut hair above the split. Make sure to use stainless steel shears
when trimming as to avoid damage or visit a trusted stylist for a nice shape up of your hairstyle. To cut down on
split-ends, have it trimmed on a regular basis and hydrate your hair with conditioner to keep it in tip-top shape.
Protective Styles
Protective styles are styles worn to protect your hair from environmental elements and rubbing against rough
material such as clothing. Many people choose to wear wigs and weaves as a way to protect their natural hair and
give hair a rest. Pin-ups, ponytails and up-dos are also forms of protective styling.
Products
Try to avoid weighing down your hair with numerous styling products. They can dry out your hair and take away the
shine. Stick to one or two products, and use them sparingly. Over time, your hair will adjust and it will take less
effort to pull off your desired results.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How can I control very curly and frizzy hair?
Make sure that you are conditioning the hair properly to ensure adequate moisture. A conditioner free from harsh
chemicals should be used after every shampoo. You may also want to use a leave-in conditioner if your hair is
extremely dry. Olive oil helps with frizz; this will also help to keep the hair manageable and soft.
How can I make brittle and dull hair look shiny and healthy?
Look for a shampoo and conditioner that are both gentle and offer deep moisturizing formulas. Avocados and olive
oil are great for penetrating dry dull hair.
How can I keep my hair more manageable?
Conditioning your hair regularly and keeping it well nourished and moisturized is the best way to attain manageable
hair. You may use a light oil spray to keep the cuticle layers smooth and tamed. In addition, a good deep conditioning
treatment twice a month would help to keep the hair manageable. Remember to always detangle your hair thoroughly.
Is it safe to flat iron my healthy hair?
Flat ironing is a heat process that will straighten the hair by making a physical reshaping of the hair shaft. As tne
hair is subjected to moisture or humidity, your natural texture will return. While it's true that the hair can be damaged
by using too much heat, this technique is less caustic than applying a relaxer to your natural hair. Select flat irons
with a temperature gauge and select the lowest setting possible to achieve your desired style.
How do I get my dull, wiry grey hair to shine?
Before washing rub a lemon over your entire head from root to end. This process will help remove stains from grey
hair. Select a gentle shampoo and conditioner that contains Vitamin E. If hair is still dull try the avocado recipe in
this guide.
Can I remove a relaxer or perm from my hair?
Some chemical bonds in the hair are destroyed when the hair is "relaxed" or permed. The part of the hair that has
been relaxed will never be "natural" again. The only way to get rid of relaxed/permed hair is to cut off the relaxed
part or grow it out which may cause some breakage. There's lots of information online that explains ways to
transition from relaxed hair to natural hair, such as:
http://hubpages.com/hub/Going-Natural-Transitioning-from-Relaxed-Hair
http://www.curlynikki.com/
Does diet affect the condition of my hair?
Absolutely! Your hair can directly represent the overall health condition of the body. A diet with severe deficiencies
consequently can result in malnourished hair. To promote good health for your hair, eating a healthy diet consisting
of fruits and vegetables and staying hydrated will help to maintain your naturally healthy hair. Healthy eating
equates to a healthy body, including your hair.
Are hair dyes safe?
Some studies have linked hair dyes containing coal tar with a higher risk of certain cancers, while other studies
have not found this link. You can reduce your risk by using less dye over time. If you still consider dyeing your hair
there are safer alternatives to using chemicals. Check the safe cosmetic database to find less hazardous dyes and
always follow directions. Always conduct a patch test to minimize damage and allergic reactions.
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How Green is Your Salon?
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
REJOICE!
Salons are going green and it makes good sense. The average salon uses a range of chemicals and consumes
important resources such as water and energy. There are a number of things to look for when selecting a salon that
is environmentally conscious. If your salon is new to "green" practices you can encourage them to adopt healthier
practices that can reduce costs and their environmental footprint. Enjoy the added benefits of knowing that your
choices will not harm your body or the environment. These practices can make your salon experience a healthier,
safer, happier one.
Does your salon do any of the following?
REDUCE
Limit Chemical Exposure
• Use less toxic, safer, natural products
• Use pumps instead of aerosol containers
• Use products with low volatile organic compound content
• Use non-toxic products for disinfecting and cleaning
Conserve Water
• Have a low-flow plumbing system
• Reduce hot water usage, use warm or cool temperatures when possible
• Turn off water when not in use V^ ^P
• For more information on ways to save water visit http://www.epa.gov/watersense/
rAW\
lA/
Minimize Waste
• Use refillable containers for products
• Use a dispensing system for shampoo and conditioners
• Use products with packaging that uses less plastic and cardboard WISE
• Offer water in reusable cups or glasses, instead of plastic water bottle
• For more information on ways to minimize waste visit http://www.epa.gov/epawaste/conserve/rrr/index.htm
Conserve Energy
• Use energy-efficient lights throughout the salon
• Use Energy Star equipment (www.EnergyStar.gov)
REUSE
• Give used magazines to other organizations, friends and customers
• Make empty containers and cardboard available to other businesses
• Require suppliers to take back empty refillable containers
RECYCLE
• Install recycling bins for office paper, cardboard, plastic, magazines
• Compost hair clippings or donate to an organization to make mats for oil spill clean-up.
For more information, check with your county government for a local Green Business Program and a list of certified Green Salons.
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REFERENCES & RESOURCES
These websites are listed for informational purposes only and do not imply any endorsement or recommendation from EPA.
Black Women for Wellness
http://www.bwwla.com/index.php
California Safe Cosmetics Program
http://www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/cosmetics/Pages/default.aspx
Clean Hair, Clean Air
http://www.thegreenguide.com/personal-care/clean-hair-clean-air
Eco Friendly Beauty
http://www.evervdavhealth.com/green-health/eco-shopping/eco-friendlv-beautv.aspx
EWG-Safety Guide to Children's Personal Care Products
http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/special/parentsguide/summarv.php
Good Guide-Best Hair Care Products
http://www.goodguide.com/browse/152782-hair-care/toptf
Healthy Hair Tips
http://www.ehow.co.uk/healthv-hair-tips/
Locks of Love m&\
http://www.locksoflove.org.
Matter of Trust-Recycling Program-Hair Oil Spill Mats
http://www.matteroftrust.org/programs/natural.htmltfmats
National Nail Salon Alliance
http://nailsalonalliance.org/
Natural Hair-Get Creative with Homemade Recipe
http://www.pioneerthinking.com/ep naturalhair.html
Premature Sexual Development in Children Following the Use of Estrogen or Placenta Containing Hair
Products http://cpj.sagepub.com/cgi/content/abstract/37/12/733
Recycling Made Easy-Setting up a recycling initiative in the salon
http://www.hji.co.uk/blogs/business/2006/12/recvcling-made-easv-1.html
Skin Deep: Safe Cosmetic Database
http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/index.php?nothanks=1
Teens Turning Green
http://www.teensturninggreen.org/about-us/teens-for-safe-cosmetics.html
Top 10 Natural Body Care Products
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/top-10-natural-bodv-care-products.html
Waste Minimization for Beauty Salons and Barbers
http://environment.gov.ab.ca/info/librarv/6274.pdf
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Special thanks to everyone who helped to make this guide success.
We could not have completed this project without your help and support.
All input, even the smallest suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Contributing Partners
Bare Canvas Spa, Carolyn Law, Owner, Oakland, CA
Black Women for Wellness, Los Angeles, CA
California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative, Oakland, CA
Dominican University of California, San Rafael, CA
Environmental Finance Center 9, San Rafael, CA
Environmental Working Group, Safe Cosmetic Campaign
EPA White House Initiative on Asian American & Pacific Islanders, Washington, D.C.
Knappology, Kern Simmons, Loctician, Oakland, CA
U.S. EPA Region 9, San Francisco, CA
U.S. EPA Region 9, Patick Wilson, Regional Toxicologist, San Francisco, CA
Partners
Capitol Regional District, (CRD) Environmental Services
Da Spot Hair Studio, Troy Ballard/Smooth Black, San Bernadino, CA
Elegant Palace, Eddie Gums, Hayward, CA
FaceArt Make-up, Teresa
Glamorous Life Salon, Alex "D' Looks" Matthews, Oakland, CA
Samantha Hicks, Xavier University
I Can Braid It Salon, Kamila Edwards, Oakland, CA
Keif Savage Photography, Keif Savage
Makin Faces Make-up, Keesh
Tiffany's Natural Hair Salon, Tiffany Anderson, Fairfield, CA
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For more information, please contact:
Jessica Counts-Arnold
counts- arnold.j essica@ep a. gov
(415) 972-3288
Clarice Jackson
j ackson .clarice@ep a. gov
(415) 972-3402
http://www.epa.gov/region9/waste/p2/business.html
Please consider the environment before printing.
^ A Printed on 50% post consumer recycled fiber. ^ A
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