United States
Environmental Protection
Agency
402-K92-003
August 1992
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Reduce Radon Levels In Your Home
Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. The Surgeon General
and the EPA recommend testing for radon and reducing radon in homes
that have high levels. Fix your home if your radon level is confirmed to
be 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher. Radon levels less than
4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases may be reduced. If you
smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is
especially high.
Select A State Certified And/Or RCP Contractor
Choose a radon contractor to fix your home who is state certified and/
or listed in EPA's Radon Contractor Proficiency (RCP) Program. RCP
contractors are trained, must pass a comprehensive exam, and must
agree to follow standards developed to ensure effective radon
reduction. Call your state radon office (see p. 17) for a list of qualified
contractors in your area.
Radon Reduction Techniques Work
Radon reduction systems work. Some radon reduction systems can
reduce radon levels in your home by up to 99%. The cost of fixing a
home generally ranges from $500 to $2500. Your costs may vary
depending on the size and design of your home and which radon
reduction methods are needed. Thousands of people have reduced
radon levels in their homes.
Maintain Your Radon Reduction System
Maintaining your radon reduction system takes little effort and keeps the
system working properly and radon levels low.
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INTRODUCTION
ou have tested yourlhome for radon, but now what? This booklet is for
people who have tested their home for radon and confirmed that they
have elevated radon levels - 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.
This booklet can help you:
Select a qualified contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home
Determine an appropriate radon reduction method
Maintain your radon reduction system ;
If you want information oft how to test your home for radon, call your state
radon office (see p. 17) arid ask for a copy of A Citizen's Guide to Radon.
Y
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HOW RADON ENTERS YOUR HOUSE
adon is a naturally occurring
gas produced by the
breakdown of uranium in soil,
rock, and water. Air pressure inside
your home is usually lower than
pressure in the soil around your
home's foundation. Because of this
difference in pressure, your house
acts like a vacuum, drawing radon in
through foundation cracks and other
openings. Radon may also be
present in well water and can be
released into the air in your home
when water is used for showering
and other household uses. In most
cases, radon entering the home
through water is a small risk
compared to radon entering your home from the soil. In a small number of
homes, the building materials can give off radon, although building materials
rarely cause radon problems by themselves.
RADON IS A CANCER-CAUSING,
RADIOACTIVE GAS
Iadon is estimated to cause many thousands of lung cancer deaths each
year. In fact, the Surgeon General has warned that radon is the
second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. Only
smoking causes more lung cancer deaths. If you smoke and your home has
high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.
WHAT DO YOUR RADON TEST
RESULTS MEAN?
The amount of radon in the air is measured in "picocuries of radon per
Liter of air," or "pCi/L" Sometimes test results are expressed in Working
Levels, "WL," rather than picocuries per Liter of air. A level of 0.02 WL is
usually equal to about 4 pCi/L in a typical home.
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Any radon exposure has some
risk of causing lung cancer. The
lower the radon level in your
home, the lower your family's
risk of lung cancer. The U.S.
Congress has set a long-tehn goal
that indoor radon levels bfe no more
than outdoor levels; about 0.4 pCi/L
of radon is normally found in the
outside air. EPA recommends fixing
your home if the results of one long-
term test or the average ofjtwo short-
term tests taken in the lowest lived-
in level of the home show' radon
levels of 4 pCi/L (or 0.02 -^L) or
higher. A short-term test remains in
your home for two days to 90 days,
whereas a long-term test remains in
your home for more than 90 days.
With today's technology, radon
levels in most homes can. be
reduced to 2 pCi/L or below.
HAVE YOU CONFIRMED
YOUR RADON TIEST?
If your first short-term test result
is 4 pCi/L or higher, (or 0.02 WL or
more), EPA recommends that you
take a second test to be sure. For
a better understanding '. of your
year-round average radon level,
take a long-term test. If you need
results quickly, take a second
short-term test and average it
with the first. The higher your
initial short-term test result, the
more certain you can be that you
should take a short-term rather
than a long-term follow up test. If
your first short-term test | result is
several times the action! level
for example, about 10 pCi/L or
higher you should take a sec-
ond short-term test immediately.
WHY USE A TESTER OR
A TEST KIT THAT
MEETS EPA
REQUIREMENTS?
Whether you use a short or
long-term test, use a device and
a testing company that is state
certified, and/or is listed in EPA's
Radon Measurement Proficiency
(RMP) Program. If you want to use
a do-it-yourself test kit, use one
that displays the phrase "Meets
EPA Requirements." EPA's RMP
Program is designed to help
assure that consumers get reli-
able radon measurements. If you
want to hire a professional to take
the measurement, contact your
state radon office for a current list
of state certified and/or RMP
listed companies and individuals
(see p. 17). Listed RMP Program
participants must follow quality
assurance and EPA measurement
procedures and have demon-
strated the ability to take reliable
measurements with specific devi-
ces. Your state may also have
additional requirements for pro-
fessional radon testers.
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WHY HIRE A CONTRACTOR?
EPA recommends that you have a qualified contractor fix your
home because lowering high radon levels requires specific technical
knowledge and special skills. Without the proper equipment or technical
knowledge, you could actually increase your radon level or create other
potential hazards. But, if you decide to do the work yourself, get information
on appropriate training courses and copies of EPA's technical guidance
documents from your state radon office.
WHY USE A STATE CERTIFIED AND/OR RCP
CONTRACTOR?
EPA recommends that you use a contractor trained to fix radon problems.
EPAs Radon Contractor Proficiency (RCP) Program requires contractors to
take training courses and pass an exam before being listed in EPAs
National RCP Report. The Report lists radon contractors who meet RCP
requirements. RCP contractors carry a current RCP photo identification card
and all RCP contractors are required to follow EPA standards to make sure that
their work meets minimum quality standards. A number of states have their
own contractor certification programs which have additional requirements.
Check with your state radon office (see p. 17) to see if the contractor you are
considering is state certified and/or RCP listed.
HOW TO SELECT A CONTRACTOR
Get Estimates
Choose a contractor to fix a
radon problem just as you .
would cho.ose someone to do
other home repairs. It is wise to get
more than one estimate, to ask for
references, and to contact some of
those references to ask if they are
satisfied with the contractors' work.
Also, ask your county or state
consumer protection office for
information about the contractors.
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Use this check-list when evaluating and comparing contractors snd ask the
following questions:
YES NO
D D Will the contractor provide references or photographs, as well as test
results of before" attd 'after* radon levels of past radon reduction work?
D D Can the contractor explain what the work will involve, how long it
will take to complete, and exactly how the radon reduction system
will work?
D D Does the contractor
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The Contract
Ask the contractor to prepare a contract before any work starts. Carefully
read the contract before you sign it. Make sure everything in the contract
matches the original proposal. The
contract should describe exactly
what work will be done prior to and
during the installation of the system,
what the system consists of, and how
the system will operate. Carefully
consider optional additions to your
contract which may add to the initial
cost of the system, but may be worth
the extra expense. Typical options
might include a guarantee that the
contractor will adjust or modify the
system to reach the promised radon
level, or, an extended warranty and/
or a service plan.
Important information that should appear in the contract includes:
D The total cost of the job, including all taxes and permit fees; how
much, if any, is required for a deposit; and when payment is due hi
full.
D The tune needed to complete the work.
D An agreement by the contractor to obtain necessary licenses and
follow required building codes.
D A statement that the contractor carries liability insurance and is
bonded and insured to protect you hi case of injury to persons, or
damage to property, while the work is being done.
D A guarantee that the contractor will be responsible for damage and
clean-up after the job.
D Details of warranties, guarantees, or other optional features,
including the acceptable resulting radon level.
D A declaration stating whether any warranties or guarantees are
transferable if you sell your home.
D A description of what the contractor expects the homeowner to do
(e.g., make the work area accessible) before work begins.
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WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A RADON
REDUCTION SYSTEM
In selecting a radon reduction method for your home, you and your
contractor should consider several things, including: how high your initial
radon level is, the costs iof installation and system operation, your house
size and your foundation type.
Installation and
Operating Costs
i
For most homes, radon reduction
measures are no more expensive
than having a new hot water heater
installed or having the house
painted. The cost of a contractor
fixing a home generally radges from
$500 to $2500, depending on the
characteristics of the house and
choice of radon reduction methods.
Most types of radon reduction
systems cause some loss of heated
or air conditioned air, which could increase your utility bills. How much your
utility bills will be affected depends on the climate you live in, what kind of
reduction system you select, and how your house is built. Systems that use
fans are more effective in reducing radon levels; however, they will increase
your electric bill. The table; on p. 16 lists the installation and average
operating costs for different radon reduction systems and describes the best
use of each method. 'i
How a Radon Reduction System May Affect Your Home
In order to minimize the; effect of installing a radon reduction system in
your house, ask your contractor before any work starts, how the system can be
made to blend with its surrpundings. For instance: radon vent pipes may be
encased with materials that match the exterior of your house, or the pipes
may be routed up through closets.
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RADON REDUCTION TECHNIQUES
T;
(here are several methods that a
contractor can use to lower
radon levels in your home.
Some techniques prevent radon
from entering your home while
others reduce radon levels after it
has entered. EPA generally
recommends methods which
prevent the entry of radon. Soil
suction, for example, prevents
radon from entering your home by
drawing the radon from below the
house and venting it through a pipe,
or pipes, to the air above the house where it is quickly diluted.
Any information that you may have about the construction of your house
could help your contractor choose the best system. Your contractor will
perform a visual inspection of your house and design a system that considers
specific features of your house. If this inspection foils to provide enough
information, the contractor will need to perform diagnostic tests to help
develop the best radon reduction system for your home. For instance, your
contractor can use a "smoke gun" to find the source and direction of air
movement. A contractor can learn air flow sources and directions by watching
a small amount of smoke that he or she shot into holes, drains, sumps, or
along cracks. The sources of air flow show possible radon routes.
Another type of diagnostic test is a "soil communication test." This test uses
a vacuum cleaner and a smoke gun to determine how easily air can move
from one point to another under the foundation. By inserting a vacuum
cleaner hose in one small hole and using a smoke gun in a second small
hole, a contractor can see if the smoke is pulled down into the second hole
by the force of the vacuum cleaner's suction. Watching the smoke during a
soil communication test helps a contractor decide if certain radon reduction
systems would work well in your house.
Whether diagnostic tests are needed is decided by details specific to your
house, such as the foundation design, what kind of material is under your
house, and by the contractor's experience with similar houses and similar
radon test results.
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House Foundation Types
Your house type will affect the kind of radon reduction system that will
work best. Houses are generally categorized according to their foundation
design. For example: basement, slab-on-grade (concrete poured at ground
level), or crawlspace (a shallow unfinished space under the first floor).
Some houses have more than one foundation design feature. For instance, it
is common to have a basement under part of the house and to have a slab-on-
grade or crawlspace under the rest of the house. In these situations a
combination of radon reduction techniques may be needed to reduce radon
levels to below 4 pCi/L.
ON
©RADE
CRAWL.
SPACE
Radon reduction systems can be grouped by house foundation design. Find
your type of foundation design above and read about which radon reduction
systems may be best for your house.
Basement and Slab-on-Grade Houses
In houses that have a base-
ment or a slab-on-grade
foundation, radon is usually
reduced by one of four types of
soil suction: subslab suction,
drain tile suction, sump hole
suction, or block wall suction.
Active Subslab suction (also
called subslab depressur-
ization) is the most common
and usually the mosl: reliable
radon reduction method. Suction
pipes are inserted through the
floor slab into the crushed rock
or soil underneath, lliey also
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may be inserted below the concrete slab from outside the house. The number
and location of suction pipes that are needed depends on how easily air can
move in the crushed rock or soil under the slab, and on the strength of the
radon source. A contractor usually gets this information from visual
inspection, from diagnostic tests, and/or from experience. Acting like a
vacuum cleaner, a fan connected to the pipes draws the radon gas from below
the house and then releases it into the outdoor air. Passive subslab suction
is the same as active subslab suction except it relies on air currents instead of
a fen to draw radon up from below the house. Passive subslab suction is
generally not as effective in reducing high radon levels as active subslab
suction.
Some houses have drain tiles to direct water away from the foundation of
the house. Suction on these drain tiles is often effective in reducing radon
levels if the drain tiles form a complete loop around the foundation.
One variation of subslab and drain tile suction is sump hole suction.
Often, when a house with a basement has a sump pump to remove unwanted
water, the sump can be capped so that it can continue to drain water and
serve as the location for a radon suction pipe.
Block wall suction can be used in basement houses with hollow block
foundation walls. This method removes radon from the hollow spaces within
the basement's concrete block wall. It is often used together with subslab
suction.
Craw/space Houses
In houses with crawlspaces, radon levels can sometimes be lowered by
ventilating the crawlspace passively (without the use of a fan) or actively
(with the use of a fan). Crawlspace ventilation lowers indoor radon levels
both by reducing the home's suction on the soil and by diluting the radon
beneath the house. Natural ventilation in a crawlspace is achieved by opening
vents, or installing additional vents. Active ventilation uses a fan to blow air
through the crawlspace instead of relying on natural air circulation. In colder
climates, for either natural or active crawlspace ventilation, water pipes in the
crawlspace need to be insulated against the cold.
Another effective method to reduce radon levels in crawl-space houses
involves covering the earth floor with a heavy plastic sheet. A vent pipe and
fen are used to draw the radon from under the sheet and vent it to the
outdoors. This form of soil suction is called submembrane
depressurization.
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Cffter Types of Radon Reduction Methods
Other radon reduction techniques that can be used in any type of house
include: sealing, house preissurization, natural ventilation, and heat recovery
ventilation. Most of these methods are considered to be either temporary
measures, or only partial solutions to be used in combination with other
measures. ;
Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most
approaches to radon reduction. Sealing does two things, it limits the flow of
radon into your home and it reduces the loss of conditioned air, thereby
making other radon reduction techniques more effective and cost-efficient.
EPA does not recommend the use of sealing, alone to reduce radon because,
by itself, sealing has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or
consistently. It is difficult to, identify and permanently seal the places where
radon is entering. Normal settling of your house opens new entry routes and
reopens old ones. :
House pressurization uses a fen to blow air into the basement or living
area from either upstairs or .outdoors. It attempts to create enough pressure at
the lowest level indoors (in a basement for example) to prevent radon from
entering into the house. The effectiveness of this technique is limited by
1 house construction, climate, other
appliances in the house, and occupant
lifestyle. In order to maintain enough
pressure to keep radon out, the doors and
windows at the lowest level must not be
left opened, except for normal entry and
exit.
Some natural ventilation occurs in all
houses. By opening windows, doors, and
vents on the lower floors you increase the
ventilation in your house. This increase in
ventilation mixes radon with outside air
NATURAL VENTILATION
and can result in reduced radon levels. In addition, ventilating your house
can help to lower indoor radon levels by reducing the vacuum effect. Natural
ventilation in any type of house, (aside from ventilation of a crawlspace),
should normally be regarded as a temporary radon reduction approach
because of the following disadvantages: loss of conditioned air and. related
discomfort, greatly increased costs of conditioning additional outside air, and
security concerns. ;;
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A heat recovery ventilator (HRV), also called an air-to-air heat
exchanger, can be installed to increase ventilation. An HRV will increase
house ventilation while using the heated or cooled air being exhausted to
warm or cool the incoming air. HRVs can be designed to ventilate all or part
of your home, although they are more effective in reducing radon levels when
used to ventilate only the basement. If properly balanced and maintained,
they ensure a constant degree of ventilation throughout the year. HRVs also
can improve air quality in houses that have other indoor pollutants. There
could be significant increase in the heating and cooling costs with an HRV,
but not as great as ventilation without heat recovery (see p. 16).
DOES YOUR CONTRACTOR'S WORK
MEET RCP REQUIREMENTS?
There are certain basic requirements that all radon reduction systems
should meet. RCP contractors must meet the following performance
standards (for a complete list of RCP standards call your state office, see
p. 17). Some states have similar requirements:
D Radon reduction systems mtistbe clearly labelled.
- This will avoid accidental changes to the system which could disrupt
its function.
D The exhaust pipes of soil suction systems must vent 10 feet or more
above the ground, and away from windows, doors, or other openings
that could allow the radon to reenter the house.
D The exhaust fan nnistbe located in a unlivable area.
- For instance, it should be in a un-occupied attic of the house or
outside not in. a basement!
D If installing an exhaust fan outside, the contractor must install a fan
that meets local building codes for exterior use.
D All active radon reduction systems require electrical connections that
taustbe installed according to local electrical codes.
D A warning device mustbe installed to alert you if the system stops
working properly.
- Examples of system failure warning devices are: a liquid gauge, a
sound alarm, a light indicator, and a dial (needle display) gauge.
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D A warning device mtistbe placed where it can be seen or heard easily.
- If your monitor shows that the system is not working properly, call
a contractor to have it checked.
D RCP contractors must make sure a follow up radon test is done within
30 days of system installation, but no sooner than 24 hours after your
system is in operation with the fan on, if it has one.
- To test the system's initial effectiveness, a 2 - 7 day measurement is
recommended.
- Test conditions: windows and doors must be closed 12 hours before
and during the test, except for normal entry/exit.
D RCP contractors must recommend that you get an independent follow
up radon measurement.
- Having an independent tester perform the test, or conducting the
measurement yourself, will eliminate any potential conflict of
interest.
Your RCP contractor should also check that your radon reduction system's
warning device works. Make sure your contractor completely explains your
radon reduction system, demonstrates how it operates, and explains how to
maintain it. Ask for written operating and maintenance instructions and
copies of any warranties. :
LIVING IN A HOUSE WITH A RADON
REDUCTION SYSTEM
Maintaining Your Radon Reduction System
Similar to a furnace or chimney,
radon reduction systems need
some occasional maintenance.
You should look at your waining
device on a regular basis to make
sure the system is working correctly.
Fans may last for five years 6r more
(although manufacturer warranties
tend not to exceed three years) and
may then need to be repaired or
replaced. Replacing a fan will cost
around $250 including parts and
labor. By testing at least eveiry two
years, you will confirm that your
radon level is staying low and that
your fan is still performing well.
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Remember, the fan should NEVER be turned off; it must run continuously for
the system to work correctly.
The filter in an HRV requires periodic cleaning and should be changed
twice a year. Replacement filters for an HRV are easily changed and are priced
between $5 and $15. Ask your contractor where filters can be purchased. Also,
the vent that brings fresh air in from the outside needs to be inspected for
leaves and debris. The ventilator should be checked annually by a heating,
ventilating, and air-conditioning professional to make sure the air flow
remains properly balanced. HRVs used for radon control should run all the
time.
Remodeling Your Home After Radon Levels
Have Been Lowered
If you decide to make major structural changes to your home after you have
had a radon reduction system installed (such as converting an unfinished
basement area into living space), ask your radon contractor whether these
changes could void any warranties. After you remodel, retest in the lowest
lived-in area to make sure the construction did not reduce the effectiveness of
the radon reduction system. If you are adding a new foundation for an
addition to your house, address the radon problem during construction.
BUYING OR SELLING A HOME?
If you are buying or selling a
home and need to make
decisions about radon, consult
EPA's "Home Buyer's and Seller's
Guide to Radon." If you are selling a
home that has a radon reduction
system, inform potential buyers and
supply them with information about
your system's operation and
maintenance.
If you are buying a new house,
consider that it is almost always less
expensive to build radon resistant features into new construction than it is to
fix an existing house that has high radon levels. Ask your builder if he or she
uses radon-resistant construction features. Your builder can refer to EPA
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guidance about radon and hew construction, or your builder can work with a
state certified and/or RCP contractor to design and install the proper radon
reduction system. To obtain EPA's technical documents contact your state
radon office (see p. 17). ;
All homes should be tested for radon and high radon levels should be
reduced.
DO YOU HAVE A WELL?: RADON IN WATER
Well owners with elevated indoor radon levels should test their well water for radon. Radon in
your water supply can increase yojur indoor radon level, although, in most cases, radon entering
the home through water will be a Ismail source of risk compared to radon entering from the soil.
EPA estimates that indoor radon levels will increase by about 1 pCi/L for every 10,000 pCi/L of
radon in water. Call the Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 1-800-426-4791, or your state office (see
p. 17) for more information.
What do the results of your water test mean?
Estimate how much the radon in your water is elevating your indoor radon level by
subtracting 1 pCi/L from your inddor air radon level for every 10,000 pCi/L of radon that was
found in your water (For example! if you have 30,000 pCi/L of radon in your water then 3 PCi/L
of your indoor measurement may have come from radon in water). If most of the radon is not
coming from your water, fix your house first and then retest your indoor air to make sure that the
source of elevated radon was not your private well. If a large contribution of the radon in your
house is from your water, you ma.y want to consider installing a special water treatment system
to remove radon. EPA recommends installing a water treatment system only when there is a
proven radon problem in your water supply.
!
How is radon removed from water?
Radon can be removed from water by using one of two methods: aeration treatment or
granular activated carbon (GAG) treatment. Aeration treatment involves spraying water or mixing
it with air, and then venting the air from the water before use. GAG treatment filters water
through carbon. Radon attaches to! the carbon and leaves the water free of radon. The carbon
may need special handling in its disposal if it is used at a high radon level or if it has been used
for a long time. In either treatment, it is important to treat the water where it enters your home
(point-of-entry device) so that all the water will be treated. Point-of-use devices, such as those
installed on a tap or under the sink, will only treat a small portion of your water and are not
effective in reducing radon in yourj water. It is important to maintain home water treatment units
properly because failure to do so can lead to other water contamination problems. Some
homeowners opt for a service contract from the installer to provide for carbon replacement and
general system maintenance. Refer:to the table on p. 16 for more information on water treatment
systems. ,,
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INSTALLATION AND OPERATING COST TABLE
Technique
Subslab Suction
(Subslab
Depressurlzation)
Passive Subslab
Suction
Dralntlle Suction
Blockwall Suction
Sump Hole Suction
Submembrane
Depressurlzatlon
In a crawl space
Natural
Ventilation In a
crawl space
Sealing of Radon
Entry Routes
House (Basement)
Pressurlzatlon
Natural
Ventilation
Heat Recovery
Ventilation
Water Systems:
Aeration
Granular
Activated Carbon
(GAG)
Typical
Radon
Reduction
80-99%
30-70%
90-99%
50-99%
90-99%
80 - 99%
0-50%
0-50%
50-99%
Variable
25 -50% if
used for full
house 25 -
75% if used
for
basement
95 - 99%
85 - 99%
Typical
Range of
Installation
Costs
(Contractor)
S800-2500
S550-2250
S800-1700
S1500 - 3000
S800-2500
$1000-2500
none
$200 -500 if
additional
vents installed
$100-2000
$500-1500
none
$200 -500 if
additional
vents Installed
$1200-2500
$3000-4500
$1000 - 2000
Typical Operating
Cost Range for Fan
Electricity & Heated/
Cooled Air Loss
(Annual)
$75-175
There may be
some energy
penalties
$75-175
$150 - 300
$100-225
$70 -$175
There may be
some energy
penalties
None
$150-500
$100 - 700
$75 -500 For
continuous
operation.
$40-90
None
Comments
Works best if air can move easily in
material under slab
May be more effective in cold climates;
not as effective as active subslab
suction
Works best If draintiles form complete
loop around house
Only in houses with hollow blockwalls;
requires sealing of major openings
Works best if air moves easily to sump
under slab; or if draintiles form complete
loop
Less heat loss than natural ventilation in
cold winter climates
Costs variable
Normally used with other techniques;
proper materials & installation required
Works best with tight basement Isolated
from outdoors & upper floors
Significant heated / cooled air loss;
operating costs depend on utility rates
& amount of ventilation
Limited use: best in tight house; for full
house, use with levels no higher than 8
pCi/U no higher than 16 pCi/Lforuse in
basement; less conditioned air loss than
natural ventilation
More efficient than GAC; requires
annual cleaning to maintain effective-
ness & to prevent contamination;
carefully vent system
Less efficient for higher levels than
aeration; use for moderate levels
(around 5000 pCI/L or less); radon by-
products can build on carbon may
need radiation shield around tank &
care in disposal
'NOTE: The fan electricity and house heating/cooling loss cost range is based on certain assumptions regarding
climate, your house size, and the cost of electricity and fuel. Your costs may vary. Numbers based upon 1991 data.
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STATE RADON CONTACTS
Alabama 800/582-1866
Alaska 800/478-8324
Arizona 602/255-4845
Arkansas 501/661-2301
California 800/745-7236
Colorado 800/846-3986
Connecticut 203/566-3122
Delaware 800/554-4636
District of Columbia . . . 202/727-5728
Florida 800/543-8279
Georgia 800/745-0037
Hawaii 808/586-4700
Idaho 800/445-8647
Illinois 800/325-1245
Indiana 800/272-9723
Iowa 800/383-5992
Kansas 913/296-6183
Kentucky 502/564-3700
Louisiana 800/256-2494
Maine 80Q/232-0842
Maryland 800/872-3666
Massachusetts 413/586-7525
Michigan 800/723-6642
Minnesota 800/798-9050
Mississippi 800/626-7739
Missouri 800/669-7236
INDIAN NATIONS
All Indian Pueblo Council.
Cherokee Nation....
Chickasaw Nation .. .
Hopi Tribe
Inner Tribal Council ..
Jicarilla Apache Tribe.
Navajo Nation
. 505-881-2254
. 918-458-5496
. 405-436-2603
. 602-734-2441
. 602-248-0071
. 505-759-3242
. 602-871-7754
Montana 406/444-3671
Nebraska 8(30/334-9491
Nevada 702/687-5394
New Hampshire 800/852-3345
X4674
New Jersey 800/648-0394
New Mexico 505/827-4300
New York 800/458-1158
North Carolina 919/571-4141
North Dakota 701/221-5188
Ohio 800/523-4439
Oklahoma 405/271-1902
Oregon 503/731-4014
Pennsylvania 800/237-2366
Puerto Rico 809/767-3563
Rhode Island 401/277-2438
South Carolina 800/768-0362
South Dakota 800/438-3367
Tennessee 800/232-1139
Texas 512/834-6688
Utah 800/536-4250
Vermont 800/640-0601
Virginia 800/468-0138
West Virginia 800/922-1255
Wisconsin 608/267-4795
Wyoming 800/458-5847
Oneida Indian Nation ... 315-361-6300
Seneca Nation 716-532-0024
St. Regis Mohawk Tribe .. 518-358-3141
For Indian Nations in the
States of MN,WUL,MI
IN,and OH,call 312-886-6063
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Consumer Federation of America strongly
urges consumers to have elevated radon levels in their
homes reduced. EPA's Consumer's Guide to Radon
Reduction will assist these individuals and offers very
good advice for selecting and working with a qualified
radon contractor.
ISBN 0-16-036355-5
9 "780160" 3625 52
For sale by the U.S. Government Printing Office
Superintendent of Documents, Mail Stop: SSOP, Washington, DC 20402-9328
ISBN 0-16-036255-5
Printed on Recycled Paper
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