GARDENER'S
rCOMPANY
Number 04
BETTER
GARDENING
BULLETIN
Be A Grower, Not A Mower™
Let's face it. Nothing sets off
your home and gardens like a
freshly mown carpet of green.
Where else can you toss a football
and play with the dog? The lawn is
a beautiful and integral part of the
American home landscape. But it
comes with a cost. Our lawns now
cover over 25 million acres of
America—an area the size of
Pennsylvania! This carpet of green
has replaced the natural habitats
for our native plants, songbirds,
and many kinds of small animals.
The summer air is filled with the
pollution and noise from mowers
and string trimmers. And we
spend millions of hours on lawn
maintenance at a time when most
Americans are struggling to find
more leisure time for their fami-
lies.
It wasn't always this
way. Early settlers
maintained a clearing
around their houses
with the help of an
occasional "mowing"
from sheep, cattle or
a scythe. Their home
landscape was
diverse with gardens,
fruit trees, natural
shrubs and trees
which in turn were
surrounded by
pastures and crop-
land. In 1830, the
first reel mower was
developed and mani-
cured lawns quickly
became the vogue at
estates and parks. After
World War II, the popularity of
lawns exploded when new subur-
ban neighborhoods were developed
with rolling carpets of turf that
extended from one yard to the
next.
Obviously we can't (and probably
don't want to), go back to the
landscape of the settlers. But we
can reduce our lawns and make
our yards more natural and
"sustainable" by incorporating a
diversity of plant materials into the
landscape—stately trees, native
shrubs, evergreen ground covers,
ornamental grasses and perenni-
als. With thoughtful plant selec-
tion and placement, we can create
a low maintenance yard and still
give the appearance of neatness
and care.
This bulletin will show you how
two homeowners reduced the
amount of lawn they maintain, (by
as much as 80%), and have intro-
duced new plantings to their yard.
It will give you lots of ideas for how
you can "Be a Grower, Not a
Mower".
WHERE TO BEGIN
Start by taking a good look at
your lawn. The most obvious place
to begin is in areas where the
grass doesn't thrive in the first
place. Shaded areas under the
trees, wet sections in the yard, and
rocky outcroppings. And don't
forget the steep bank where you
risk your life mowing every week-
end. These are all perfect candi-
dates for alternative plantings.
The next question to ask your-
self is how much lawn do
you really need? Do you
require a fairly large
grassy area for recre-
ational activities like
volleyball, horseshoes,
or children's games?
What about the front
and side yards? Are
they unused spaces
that simply border
the house? Pay
attention to the
directions of the foot
traffic around your
house. Is there a need
to provide paths
rather than turf to
help move people to
the utility shed or back
door? Once you've
determined what your
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The Caldwell Residence
Knoxville, TN
The Caldwells live in a rural area and their 7 acre property is a combination
of open land and forest. They have gradually reduced their lawn area from 5
acres to 1/4 acre. The remaining lawn areas are edged with landscape timbers
and are kept neatly manicured. Visitors have remarked that this makes the
property look like an estate.
Vegetable Garden
Watering is important
in hat Tennessee
summers. This garden
has cm underground
irrigation system that
waters plants at the
root zone eliminating
the need for sprinklers
and hand-watering.
Before:
Before: Flue acres of mowing and
4 hours of labor a week.
Natural Trees
White pine frees (not shown),
have been planted over the
yeCErs to create a bitffer zone
between the house and
neighbors and to help decrease
the amount of area, that needs to
be maintained.
Former laum. areas
haee been- replaced
with,
Drive
maintenance.
, Butterfly ShrutW
Thg frock lawn area
fe being replaced
plantings of
conejtawer®,
butterfly bushes and
Chaste trees tliat u>iU
to. variety of
butter/lies.
•Brfele Patio ttnd
Kitchen JBtar*
Garden
weed matting under
all of the garden
paths, raised beds
and even the brick
patio to prevent
weed growth, Tft^y
use this area for
sitting and enjayiruj
the scented, herb
garden,
Illustrations by: Suzanne LeGau.ll
yard is used for, you may find that
you can decrease your lawn
by 50%!
But don't. At least not right away.
Take some time to do some re-
search and planning before you
get started. Begin with the steep
slope, shady or wet areas and
develop a plan of what you'd like
to see growing there. Start small
and replant step by step. We've
identified 5 key principles to help
you create an attractive and low
maintenance yard:
• go for a natural look (rather than
a formal one)
• plant a limited number of plant
varieties and bunch them in drifts
• use evergreen ground covers for
year-round color
• save water—install drip rrigation
and use mulch!
• incorporate paved surfaces
The Natural Look
A formal yard has lots of open
space with plants strategically
placed on edges of the lawn. The
natural yard incorporates more
native plants—trees, shrubs,
ornamental grasses and flowering
perennials - grouped in free-
flowing swaths around the prop-
erty. The plants used in a "natu-
ral" yard are often native to your
area
and generally will require less
fertilizer and water than some of
the introduced plant species that
are commonly used in home
landscaping.
You can utilize native plants to
create a more natural ecosystem
(like the reintroduction of cactus
in an Arizona yard, or the creation
of a bird or butterfly sanctuary), or
allow sections of your yard to
simply "go wild". There are many
nurseries and garden centers that
sell hardy, native plants and
Whatever you do, please don't
remove plants from the wild, as
many plants are endangered and
could be irretrievably lost if they
do not survive the move to your
yard.
Planting in Drifts
Growing a large number of plant
varieties is tempting, but it re-
quires more work to keep them in
their place. As tall varieties ma-
ture, they can block out the sun
for short plants, and fast spread-
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ing perennials encroach upon the
slower growing plants. Keep you
plantings simple. Select 2 or 3
varieties and group the plants
together, giving them enough
space to grow for many years
without competition. You'll find
that the shrubs and perennials
will merge into one large planting
that helps suppress weeds and
creates a safe haven for toads,
birds, and other small creatures.
Ground Covers
Although it takes a little work to
establish ground covers, their
year-round color makes it well
worth the effort. They form a
ground-hugging companion for
taller plants, and protect the soil
from erosion as they spread. And
when they're mature, they keep
weeds and other unwanted plants
at bay.
For shaded areas, try planting
Vinca minor or periwinkle under
your trees or incorporate ferns, lily
of the valley and pachysandra in
shaded corners of the yard. For
spring color, plant spring bulbs,
Solomon's seal, and bleeding
hearts between the ground covers.
For homeowners with sunny dry
areas, daylilies are one of the
easiest, fast-spreading perennial
ground covers you can grow.
Creeping thyme, juniper, euony-
mus, and creeping phlox also
make a nice carpet. There are so
many plant varieties to choose
from! See our selection of daylilies,
and ornamental grasses on the
back page of this bulletin, or ask
your local garden center for advice
on the best varieties for your area.
Save Water With Drip Irrigation
and Mulching
Most homeowners will save a lot
of water (and time) by simply
reducing the size of their lawn and
substituting more natural
plantings. But there's more you
can do. Mulch your shrub and
flower beds with leaves, bark or
wood chips. Mulches retain soil
moisture and will improve the
quality of your soil. Water your
plantings with drip irrigation or
soaker hoses to get water directly
to the root zone and avoid wasteful
run-off and loss through evapora-
tion. And finally, utilize any free
water you can for your plants. A
rain barrel or tub that captures
rainfall from your roof makes a
great addition to your garden—and
might serve as a bird bath too!
Incorporate Paved Surfaces and
Non-Planted Areas
Installing low maintenance
surfaces and edging makes it easy
to define a neat line along walk-
ways and borders between lawn
and garden. If you have a worn
footpath in the lawn between the
deck and toolshed, consider
The Schule Residence
So. Burlington, VT
This is a typical 1/2 acre
suburban lot on a shaded street.
By planting a diversity of natural
trees and perennials, the Schules
maintain less than 1/8 of an acre
of lawn. The area is small
enough that them can use a reel
mower to maintain it.
Before:
Hemlock
The Seteles efjfog
uxttd-dng them mhOe
Shade totewnt .
's seat,
ferns, Moodroat, and
astfte JB out &u>.
area under white
(rtormalb) a
djftouttpktce to
iiewr €t Utivn
mowerf.
A split rM fence is
used t& &js
more jormal"
landscape from the
Schum' forest
property
in the left
Besides j rovldaig a
backdn p/or the
also helpfs keep the
neigKbaitiaod kids
in check.
Before: V* acre of lawn and
young birch trees.
'Shade-toning lau>
Maintenance
Oroundcovers
Large beets of Jems,
pachysandra, and
Blnca border ttie
forest and and
fencellne.
PermmieO, Bed uAth Tear Bound C»!w
This sifftny street-sfcte perennial bed
contains dqffocUis, Mips, crocus,
dayUUes, chyrsanthamans, and asters,
Like all perennial beds on the property,
this garden Is mulched with teaf compost
to help retofot moisture, sgu^fch uieeds,
and keep ft looking attractoe.
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creating a wide stone path be-
tween the two areas. Use edging or
flagstone to keep turf from invad-
ing your plantings. Colorful gravel
beds also can be a very attractive
way to defme a border or lead you
to another section of the yard.
And don't forget special features
like a hammock tucked in the
shade, a garden pond, or a natural
rock garden. The wise use of these
decorative areas can create inter-
esting "rooms" within a larger
landscape.
HOW TO REPLANT YOUR YARD
You'll be rewarded with healthy
growth and a low maintenance
landscape if you follow some
simple steps in preparing your
planting beds. Again, for best
success, start with a small garden
bed or a manageable section of
your yard.
1. Peel back the sod and remove
any rocks that would compete with
your new plantings, but keep any
existing plants that are easy to
care for and blend nicely into the
landscape. You may even consider
incorporating some large boulders
to enhance your plantings by
adding height and contrasting
color.
2. Take the time to improve your
soil by incorporating compost,
bagged manure, or peat moss. You
may need to build up the soil or
create raised beds under large
trees to avoid their extensive root
systems. A little effort at the
beginning will reward you with
healthy plant growth for years to
come.
3. Install drip line or soaker hoses
to ensure that new-plants survive
the first summer, and that your
watering chores are kept to a
minimum (this won't be a consid-
eration if you're planting drought
tolerant prairie grasses or heat
tolerant perennials but remember
that even these plants will require
some pampering during their first
year).
4. If you're planting shrubs or non
spreading perennials, lay a fabric
weed mat or plastic mulch onto
the prepared soil. The payback
from this investment is immense.
Weed mats allow water to pen-
etrate into the soil but suppress
weed growth, making the beds
easy to maintain. Cut holes in the
mat wherever plants will be posi-
tioned in the soil. Plant your
perennials or shrubs with ad-
equate spacing so they are not
crowded and don't compete with
one another the first year.
5. Incorporate a granular fertilizer
into the soil around each plant to
provide a slow-releasing source of
nutrients. With this type of fertil-
izer, you'll only need to fertilize
once or twice during the growing
season.
6. Mulch over the weed mat or
between creeping plants with
straw, leaves or woodchips. Any
small weeds that do germinate will
be growing in the top few inches of
organic mulch and can be easily
pulled out and composted.
7. Native plants and groundcovers
look stunning when there is a
crisp clean line between them and
the lawn. You can use vinyl edg-
ing, brick, or stones to achieve this
definition and keep plants in their
place.
8. Incorporate bird baths, feeders,
benches or arches into your
landscape. The yard is there for
you to enjoy so let your imagina-
tion go.
LAWN CARE MADE EASY
(what's left of it)
As we stated earlier, lawns are
an integral part of the American
landscape. A healthy turf en-
hances plantings and serves as an
ideal space for recreational
activites. When it's mowed and
well maintained, it also creates a
natural barrier that keeps ticks,
mice, and other rodents from
entering the immediate area
around the house.
You'll spend less time maintain-
ing your lawn if your grass is
healthy. A thick and healthy lawn
suppresses weeds, resists pests
and disease, and keeps mainte-
nance to a minimum. Here are
some things you can do to save
work and grow a better looking
lawn!
Mow High.
A higher cut encourages deeper,
healthier roots that will be able to
sustain your lawn during the hot
summer months. Mowing high
also helps to reduce weed prob-
lems. Most weeds need light to
germinate and taller grass will
help shade them out.
Mulch Your Clippings.
By leaving the grass clippings
where they fall, you're adding free
nutrients to the soil and stimulat-
ing biological activity. If your
clippings are thick, wet and
smothering the lawn, by all means
rake them up and compost them.
But you'll save on fertilizer if you
can let the clippings do the work.
Use a Slow Release Fertilizer.
Slow release organic fertilizers will
nourish your grass over a longer
period of time than chemical
fertilizers. They also stimulate
moderate growth that doesn't
require as much mowing.
Reseed Patchy Areas with the
Right Grass Seed.
The simplest, yet most common
problem with lawns is that the
type of grass is not suited to the
site. Is your lawn in the shade or
sun? Most grass varieties (fescues,
Kentucky Bluegrass, and peren-
nial rye), require full sun to re-
main lush and green—although
they'll tolerate some shade. If your
yard is partially shaded all day,
you should plant grass varieties
that are specially suited to shade.
There are also new slow growing
grass varieties (fine fescues, tall
fescues, bentgrass, and perennial
rye) that take fewer mowings to
keep them trim. Some of them are
mixed with flowering clover and
other low growing attractive
blooms that can be mowed without
harm.
By reducing your lawn even a
little, say 10%, you'll be providing
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a new home for a multitude of
birds, salamanders, toads and
butterflies, and also be creating a
beautiful, low maintenance land-
scape for you and the people who
live there.
Your Piece of
The Puzzle
When one suburman yard
adds a diversity of plantings, it
becomes a tiny oasis. Multiply
this lot by 5 and a typical
suburban subdivision could
look like the illustration above.
These green "corridors" create
an interesting diversity of plant
shapes, color and texture that
provide protective cover for
wildlife. They also require less
water and fertilizer than typical
lawn areas. These corridors are
a place where both people and
nature can thrive.
Artwork reprinted with permission
from the publisher of Noah's Garden:
Restoring the Ecology of Our Own
Back Yards, by Sara Stein, Houghton
Mifjlin Company 1993
GROUND COVERS FOR
SHADED AREAS
Pachysandra
Sweet Woodruff
Bloodroot
Ajuga
Ferns (Maidenhair, Christmas,
Ostrich, and Cinnamon)
Vinca
Solomons Seal
Astilbe
Dicentra (bleeding heart)
GROUND COVERS FOR
SUNNY AREAS
Daylilies
Creeping thyme
Creeping juniper
Rock cress
Ornamental grasses
Lady's mantle
Lirope
PLANTS FOR IMMATURE
BUTTERFLIES
(CATERPILLARS)
Birch
Dogwood
Poplar
Aspen & Cottonwood
Milkweed
Clover
Carrot tops
Fennel
Willow
PLANTS FOR ADULT
BUTTERFLIES
Lilac
Butterfly Bush, (Buddleia davidii)
Asters
Mexican Orange
Lavender
Butterfly Weed,
(Asclepias tuberosa)
Garden Sage
Hollyhock
Purple Coneflower
Cosmos
Zinnia
BIRD-FRIENDLY PLANTS
Trees, shrubs and flowers provide
food and shelter for birds and
enhance the
landscape. Here is a partial list of
plants that are known to attract
birds:
Oak
Wild Cherry
White Pine
Shadblow (serviceberry)
Crabapple trees
Rhododendron
Azalea
Honeysuckle
Trumpet Vine
Viburnum
Chokecherry
Wild grape ivy
Barberry
Brambles
Bee balm
Veronica
Not all of the plants listed above are native plants in all regions.
Check for native alternatives in your area.
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EPA420-F-96-018
EPA Task Group on Environmentally and Economically Beneficial Landscaping
While the name is long, and it frequently elicits a chuckle when folks hear it—the following facts are more
sobering:
• more fuel is spilt each year filling up garden equipment (e.g. lawnmowers, string trimmers, chipper/
shredders, etc.) than was lost in the entire Exxon Valdez oil spill in Alaska;
• mowing an average 1/4 acre lawn produces more air pollution than driving a new (i.e. 1995) pickup truck
round-trip to NY from Washington D.C.;
• in pursuit of picture-perfect lawns, homeowners apply 67 million pounds of lawn chemicals each year,
more pounds per acre than are applied by farmers;
• Kentucky bluegrass requires 35-40 inches of water annually, yet is often planted in areas receiving 14
inches or less, thereby requiring watering (even in areas with water supply problems);
• homeowners apply 10,000 gallons of water each year for every 1,000 sq. ft of lawn. Fortunately drought
resistant varieties of turf are being developed, and alternatives to grass lawns are gaining acceptance.
Landscaping choice plays an important role in preventing pollution and encouraging ecological diversity.
While the individuals working on these and other issues are in different EPA offices, the EPA Beneficial Land-
scaping Task Group seeks to address this issue on a multi-media basis which promotes natural landscaping
practices. The following recommendations were developed by a national interagency task force in response to
the Executive Memorandum for Federal Lands which provides guidance for these practices:
To incorporate native plants whenever practicable into landscape projects. Native plants are considered all
species indigenous to the region at the time of European settlement.
To minimize construction's adverse effects on the natural habitat and retain the soil resource.
To seek to prevent pollution by, among other things, reducing lawncare chemical use, reducing lawncare
maintenance equipment use, recycling green waste, and reducing runoff.
To implement water-efficient practices, both in new development and in established communities; and
commercial and industrial operations .
To promote awareness of the environmental and economic benefits of implementing this type of landscap-
ing. The recent expansion of EPA s "GreenStar" program is an excellent example.
For additional information on this task group, contact (313) 668-4333.
Current EPA Task Group participants:
Office of Mobile Sources (OAR), Federal Facilities Enforcement Office (OECA), Office of Sustainable Ecosys-
tems and Communities (OPPE), Office of Pesticide Programs (OPPTS), Office of emergency and Remedial
Response (OSWER), Office of Wetlands, Oceans, and Watersheds (OW), Public Liaison Division (OCEPA),
Regions 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, and 10.
Reprinted with permission from Gardener's Supply Company, 1966.
Illustration/ram NOHA'S GARDEN, Copyright (c) 1993 by Sara Stein. Reprinted by permission ofHoughton
Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.
GARDENER'S
SUPPLY ^ff COMPANY
AMERICA'S GARDENING RESOURCE
128 INTERVALE ROAD, BURLINGTON, VERMONT 05401 • 800-950-4470
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