A Cooperative Project between the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Garment and Textile Care Industry FOR THE EPA 744-F-99-002, May 1999 US. Garment and Textile Care Program DISCLAIMER: This case study has been reviewed by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and approved for publication. It is based on experiences gained from projects conducted by EPA's Design for the Environment Program in collaboration with partners from industry, public interest groups, and research/educational institu- tions. The information contained in this document does not consti- tute EPA policy. Further, mention of trade names or commercial products does not imply endorse- ment or recommendation for use. All product performance informa- tion was supplied by the manufac- turer^) and has not been indepen- dently corroborated by EPA. Case Study: Liquid Carbon Dioxide (CO2) Surfactant System For Garment Care As part of a cooperative effort between the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the garment and textile care industry, the EPA Design for the Environment (DfE) Program recognizes the liquid carbon dioxide (COi) cleaning process as one example of an envi- ronmentally-preferable technology that can effectively clean garments. Currently, most of the Nation's 34,000 commercial drycleaners use perchloroethyl- ene (PCE or perc) as a solvent to clean garments. Since 1992, in response to grow- ing health and environmental concerns about perc, EPA has been working in a voluntary partnership with the drycleaning industry to reduce exposures to perc. EPAs DfE Garment and Textile Care Program (GTCP) encourages professional clothes cleaners to explore environmentally-preferable technologies capable of cleaning garments labeled "dryclean only." Several companies in the garment and textile care industry have begun using liquid CO cleaning technolo- gies for cleaning all types of fabrics. One company, Micell Technologies, Inc., has developed a process that utilizes liquid COi in conjunction with cleaning agents (i.e., surfactants). This new technology, named the Micare™ System, effectively cleans clothes and is now in commercial use. Company Background ••••••••••••«••••• Founded in 1995, Micell Technologies set out to develop a drycleaning process that would eliminate hazardous waste generation, use cleaning agents that do not pose the environmental and human health risks associated with perc, lower energy consumption, save money, improve cleaning performance, and reduce environ- mental regulatory burdens. With these criteria in mind, Micell explored the poten- tial applications and capabilities of liquid COi technology. Micell is funded by private and corporate investors and has raised over $20 million in equity financing. The head- quarters of Micell Technologies is located in Raleigh, North Carolina. ------- U.S.EFA Tfte Micell Technologies Production Facility in Midland, Michigan Micell works closely with the North Carolina State University (NCSU) College of Engineering and the College of Textiles. The company's research in the area of liquid COi cleaning technology has resulted in the issuance of new patents to Micell. In addition, Micell has licensed patented cleaning agent components from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and from Pacific Northwest National Laboratories. These cleaning agent developments have been extended by Micell's team of scientists and engi- neers, resulting in the high performance and cost effective liquid COi cleaning solution used in the Micare™ system's MICOi™ machine. The first drycleaning facility to offer the Micare™ system is Hangers™ Cleaners located in Wilmington, North Carolina. Hangers™ is owned and operated by the Williams family who have been in the drycleaning business since 1941. The Williams family's Hangers™ Cleaners has been cleaning customers' garments using the COi-based Micare™ system since late 1998. Micell plans to have approximately 60 machines in the mid-Atlantic, New England, and mid-West marketplaces by the end of 1999. How the Liquid CO* Process Works Traditional drycleaning systems use perc or petroleum- based chemicals as the primary cleaning solvent—with additives and detergents. Wetcleaning utilizes water as its primary solvent. The liquid CO process employs liquid CO as the primary solvent, with recyclable cleaning agents. Carbon dioxide is a naturally occurring and generally benign substance. At room temperature, CO can exist in the form of a gas and is therefore used to carbonate soft drinks and other beverages. In solid form, carbon dioxide is known as dry ice. At room temperature, CO can also exist as a liquid if kept in a closed system at an elevated pressure. Liquid CO has a gas-like consistency and a low surface tension allowing it to function as a very effective cleaning medium when combined with detergents. The Micare™ system uses a large conventional rotating basket with a detergent system. The system utilizes a spe- cially designed, 60-pound capacity MICO™ machine that houses liquid CO. It is similar to today's front-load, mechanical action machines and features gentle wash and extract cycles. A detergent system (containing patented cleaning agents) enhances the cleaning ability of the liquid CO, allowing it to remove soils from the garments. After the cleaning cycle, the machine pulls the mixture of liquid CO and cleaning agents (i.e., the wash fluid) away from the clothes and then cleans and reuses the solution. The Micare™ process does not require heating of the clothes and is therefore gentle to fabric. Specifically, the Micare™ System works in the following stepwise fashion: • Approximately 60 pounds of garments are placed inside a large rotating basket in the MICO™ machine and the door is closed, sealing the system. Vacuum is applied to remove the majority of the air in the system and CO gas is added to pressurize the wash tank. • Liquid CO is then added from the storage tank along with the Micare™ detergent system in order to form the wash fluid. The clothes are agitated for a pre-set time period and with a selected degree of agitation depending on the nature of the garments (e.g., delicate, normal, and heavy cycles). Similar to perc drycleaning machines, the wash fluid is circulated out of the wash tank through a lint filter to capture loose fibers and vestige lint. It then passes through a carbon filter and returns to the wash tank. At this point, the wash cycle is complete. • The liquid CO and detergent mixture (i.e., the wash fluid) is pumped out of the wash tank to the storage tank. The excess wash fluid (that fluid left clinging to the garments) is further removed by a spin extract cycle. A portion of the wash fluid is then cleaned via a distillation process that removes excess dirt and detergent. The residue from the distil- lation process is automatically eliminated from the machine and collected for shipment back to Micell for recycling. Carbon dioxide gas is removed from the wash tank using a compressor and the gas is sent back to the storage tank for reuse. The Micare™ system is able to efficiently convert CO from a gas to a liquid, thereby permitting 98 percent of the CO to be recycled. A nominal amount (10 Ibs) of CO gas is then vented to the atmosphere. • After a cycle time of 35 to 45 minutes, the cleaned garments are removed from the wash tank. Performance No independent performance testing has been conducted to date. The performance information that is presented in this case study was provided by representatives of Micell Technologies. Cleaning Micell Technologies asserts that the Micare™ system offers excellent cleaning performance across most garment components and a wide range of stains and soils. Also, since liquid CO technology operates at room temperature, any stains that may remain on a garment after the wash cycle are not heat-set as can occur with traditional drycleaning systems. Because stains are not heat-set, post-spotting is very effective. In addition, the company has developed effective pre-treatments to further facilitate cleaning performance. The Micare^SystemMICO-^Machine Service Counter at a Hangers™ Cleaners Store ------- U.S.EFVX Diagram of the Micare System Cleaning Process Micell Technologies recently conducted a study of how well the Micare™ system performed in an actual commer- cial setting. The study addressed the performance of the Micare™ system in cleaning approximately 3,000 pounds of garments that were brought by customers during a one and a half week period in January 1999 to the Williams Hangers™ Cleaners in Wilmington, North Carolina. The key results of the study are as follows: • The average wash load weight was 42 pounds (not machine capacity-limited) and the average number of garments per pound was 1.13. • Of the 3,000 pounds of garments, 61 percent or 1,830 pounds were dark-colored (with 58 percent or 1,061 pounds of the dark-colored garments having visible soil) and 39 percent or 1,170 pounds were light-colored (with 28 percent or 328 pounds of the light-colored garments having visible soil). • Overall, 39 percent or 1,170 pounds of the total 3,000 pounds of garments had visible soil. • Subsequent to cleaning, 12 percent or 360 pounds of the total 3,000 pounds of garments required post-spotting treatment. Color Fastness One of the most important attributes of any cleaning system is color fastness. According to Micell Technologies, the Micare™ cleaning system has color retention perfor- mance characteristics that equal or exceed those for perc dry cleaning for a wide variety of colored fabric combina- tions. Scientists from the College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, working with Micell scientists, have compared Micare™ system color fastness with that of perc dry cleaning for three pairs of black 100 percent cotton men's chino pants, and three red sweater vests composed of 90 percent silk and 10 percent cotton. One of each was drycleaned 20 times in perc, one of each was cleaned 20 times in the Micare™ liquid COi system, and one of each was used as a standard control sample and thus was not cleaned. The color changes in the cleaned garments were measured using a high-resolution color reflectometer and the changes were compared to the non-cleaned identi- cal garment. The black pants and red vest cleaned 20 times in the liquid COi Micare™ System were virtually indistinguishable from the identical garments that were not cleaned. However, the red vest and black pants cleaned 20 times in perc resulted in noticeable color loss and fading. Micell has observed similar trends for many other colors. The garments that appear to have less than ideal perfor- mance in the Micare™ System are garments that are pri- marily composed of triacetate and some acetate fabrics with specific dispersive dyes (yellow in particular). No abnormal shrinkage has been observed for acetate garments cleaned in the Micare™ liquid COi system. Some shrinkage has been observed for triacetate-based garments only. Fortunately, triacetate garments are rare and are found in less than 0.5 percent of the garments that customers brought to the Hangers™ Cleaners store in Wilmington, North Carolina. Micell recommends that triacetate garments be wetcleaned and that the operator use the gentle Micare™ short cycle for the cleaning of acetate garments that contain the yellow dye. Relative to traditional drycleaning solvents, fewer dye- bleeding situations have been observed with use of the Micare™ system. Micell reports that if a garment is poorly dyed at the manufacturers facility, there is some chance that it will bleed, although experience to date shows that such bleeding is much less likely with the Micare™ system than with conventional solvents. According to Micell, in the few observed cases where a garment has bled even slightly, dye transfer to other garments in the load did not occur. One example was a red dress with white cuffs. The dress was processed with a load of light khakis, and no color was transferred to other garments in the load. However, the red dye bled onto the cuffs of the dress, imparting a pink tint. The cuffs on the dress were restored by hand and the gar- ment was returned to the customer in good condition. While most leather goods are compatible with the Micare™ process and can be cleaned in the MICOi™ machine, quali- ty leather care typically requires more than just cleaning the garment. Leather goods incorporate a variety of dyes, soft- eners and paints. In many instances, to restore a leather gar- ment to near original condition, re-dyeing or re-painting is necessary. The Micare™ cleaning process can be employed to clean such garments in preparation for further restora- tion, but cannot substitute for the dyeing and painting tech- niques offered by specialized leather processors. Finally, further testing is necessary in order to determine how broadly the Micare™ process can be applied to cleaning delicate fur items. Environmental, Safety, and Health Impacts •••••••••••••••• Carbon dioxide is a naturally occurring and generally benign substance that is routinely ingested in food products such as soft drinks. The use of liquid COi technology allows consumers and machine operators to avoid exposure to traditional drycleaning solvents. A company named "NuCoi" supplies liquid COi to Micell's professional clothes cleaning customers. The Micare™ system uses the same beverage-grade bulk COi that NuCoi delivers to more than 50,000 restaurants and other fountain beverage dispensers located across the nation. Environmental stewardship is one of the hallmarks of the Micare™ system. The residue generated by the Micare™ system distillation process (i.e., the liquid COi cleaning and reuse process) is returned to Micell Technologies for recycling or recovery. Even though COi and the Micare™ system chemistry are environmentally benign, the MICOi™ cleaning machine has multiple safe- guards and process controls that minimize the potential for leaks and spills. The Micare™ system produces no hazardous waste, eliminates exposures to traditional drycleaning solvents, and does not use ozone-depleting compounds. Because the Micare™ system liquid COi is stored under pressure, the MICOi™ machine is designed and constructed in accordance with the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) code for pressurized vessels and sys- tems. In addition, Micell has considered all applicable National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) and Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) guidelines. ------- handling and preferred pick-up location. The marketing and advertising package includes name, logo, packaging, uniforms, and point-of-sale, direct mail, print, radio, out- door, and television advertising. Other Information Another company, Global Technologies, Inc., has developed a liquid COi clothes cleaning system termed Dry Wash. EPA plans to develop a case study on the Dry Wash system when commercial performance information becomes available. Further, both Micell and Global are exploring other applications of liquid COi cleaning such as textile processing and metal cleaning and degreasing. What is Design for the Environment? • •••••••• •» •••••••••••••••••• EPA's Design for the Environment (DfE) Program is a voluntary initiative that forges cooperative partnerships among government, industry, academia and environmental groups. One of the primary objectives is to incorporate environmental concerns into the design and redesign of products, processes, and technical management systems. One of the goals of the DfE Garment and Textile Care Program (GTCP) is to provide cleaners with information that can help them run their facilities in a way that is safer for workers, more environmentally sound, and more cost effective. To accomplish this goal, the program utilizes EPA expertise and leadership to evaluate the environmental and human health risks, performance, and cost tradeoffs among clothes cleaning technologies. DfE disseminates informa- tion to all interested parties and assists businesses in implementing cleaner technologies. The GTCP is preparing several documents addressing environmentally-preferable and commercially viable clothes cleaning technologies. In the near future, these and other case studies will be available on the GTCP website and in hardcopy and include: • Case Study: Water-Based Cleaning System for Suede and Leather (EPA 744-K-98-017) • Case Study: Wetcleaning Systems for Garment Care (EPA 744-K-98-016) For More Information • For more information about Micell Technologies, Inc., contact: Dr. Joseph M. DeSimone Co-founder and Chairman Micell Technologies, Inc. 7516 Precision Drive Raleigh, North Carolina 27613 Telephone: (919) 313-2102 Fax:(919)313-2101 Visit Micell's web site: www.micell.com • Contact the EPA Pollution Prevention Information Clearinghouse (PPIC) to receive an information pack- et about EPA's DfE Program or the Garment and Textile Care Program, or to request single copies of DfE documents, or a revised DfE Publications List: Pollution Prevention Information Clearinghouse (PPIC) U.S. Environmental Protection Agency 401 M Street, SW (7407) Washington, DC 20460 Telephone: (202) 260-1023 Fax: (202) 260-4659 E-mail: ppic@epa.gov • Visit the EPA DfE Garment and Textile Care Program web site: http://www.epa.gov/dfe/garment/garment.html • Visit the DfE Program web site: http://www.epa.gov/dfe ------- |