EPA 744-R-97-004b
                               May 1997
       Training Curriculum
for Alternative Clothes Cleaning:

   INSTRUCTOR'S MANUAL
                 prepared by

    The Massachusetts Toxics Use Reduction Institute
           under EPA Grant #X823854
                    for
     Economics, Exposure and Technology Division
       Office of Pollution Prevention and Toxics
         US Environmental Protection Agency
               401 M Street SW
             Washington, DC 20460

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   GARMENT WET CLEANTNC WORKSHOP

                            Instructor's Guide

                              Table of Contents
SECTION I

Methodology 	  I"l

Logistics	  1-8

Workshop Overview 	  I'lO

Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop Agenda	  1-11

Evaluation/feedback	  1-13


SECTION II

Information and overheads for modules I-XI
 This material is based upon work supported by the United States Environmental Protection Agency under Grant # X823854. Any opinions,
 findings, and conclusions or recommendations expressed in this publication are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views
 of the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

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The Instructor's Guide: This guide has been developed to assist Instructors who
will be delivering the Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop.

                                INTRODUCTION

This workshop is designed to introduce the concepts, skills, and benefits of garment wet
cleaning. A portion of the workshop is conducted in the classroom, and a portion is
conducted at an operating garment wet cleaning facility. The purpose of the classroom
component, which has a mixture of participatory lecture and small group activities, is to
provide participants with the basic concepts of garment wet cleaning. The purpose of the
portion that is conducted on-site at an operating facility  is to provide participants the
opportunity to wet clean garments that have traditionally been "dry clean only."

The intended audiences for this workshop are operators  of dry-cleaning establishments
and those with some garment industry experience interested in opening a garment wet
cleaning facility. Because of this, the workshop does not spend much time on basics of
garment care, although a review of issues relevant to garment care professionals does get
considerable attention.

This workshop was designed to be participatory and learner centered. In the next section
there is a discussion of learner centered methodology and some helpful hints for
instructors/facilitators. This instructor's guide is  meant to accompany the participant
manual. All module objectives and text will be found in the participant manual.

This Instructor Guide is divided into two sections. Section I provides methodological and
logistical information that should prove useful to instructors. For example, this section
describes how to facilitate the small group activities that are found throughout the
workshop. It also has agendas for two day and three day workshops, giving the instructor
some flexibility in scheduling.

Section II contains module specific information for instructors, such as overviews, hints
for instructor preparation, and module highlights. This  section also gives information on
how to conduct  specific activities. Finally, this section  contains overheads that the
instuctor might want to use in delivering the lecture portion of the workshop.  These are
only suggested overheads. Instructors should feel free to eliminate, modify or replace
these overheads which are thought to be more appropriate.

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                             METHODOLOGY

The Alternative Garment Cleaning workshop was designed to be learner-centered and
participatory. This approach encourages and depends on participant participation. The
format of the sessions generally includes participant discussions of case studies and small
group exercises, rather than following a traditional classroom lecture model. This
interactive method is based on the understanding that people, adults in particular, learn
more fully by doing than by listening passively.

The following several pages lay out general guidelines for presenting this type of
workshop. These guidelines were used in the development of the workshop.

A supportive learning environment which puts participants at ease is critical and should
be established at the beginning of the workshop. Participants know more about their own
workplaces and businesses than the instructors; the methodology builds on the knowledge
and experience of participants and lets participants learn from each other as well as from
the instructor.

As instructors, we need to avoid the temptation of relying too much on the lecture format
- either because there is so much mformation to cover in a short time or because of
unfamiliarity or discomfort with participatory group activities.  It is essential to this
workshop that participants bring their ideas and workplace experience into the classroom.

In keeping with the goals of mis workshop, each session allows:
       • time for learning new information,
       • time for applying new skills, and
       • time for discussing causes of problems and barriers to solving them.

Types of learning activities will include:
       •  lectures,
       •  small group exercises,
       •  report-back sessions,
       •  large group discussions,
       •  hands-on exercises,
       •  audio-visual  presentations, and
       •  evaluation sessions.
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  LECTURES

  The purpose of a lecture is to convey a basic body of information. It should:
        • be brief, and
        • be combined with participatory exercises that allow participants to work with
          and apply information provided in the presentation.

  Guidelines for lecturing:
        • keep presentations short (people can only sit and listen attentively for limited
          periods of time),
        • begin with an overview of what the lecture will cover and its practical
          application; end with a similar summary,
        • be explicit on why this information is useful or important,
        • make lectures relevant by drawing on examples from participants' workplaces,
        • make lectures interesting by using good visual aids and never reading your
          notes, and
        • encourage active participation by inviting questions from the group and by
          posing questions which require participants to apply the information being
          presented to their own situations.

 SMALL GROUP EXERCISES

 The purpose of getting people to work together in small groups to solve problems is:
       •  to increase participation,
       • to allow people to use their own experience and new information presented in
         the workshop to answer questions or address complex issues,
       • to establish trust between and enhance the confidence of workshop participants.

 Small group exercises can take different forms, including:
       • filling out worksheets as a group,
       • brainstoraihig a list of ideas on a given topic, or
       • analyzing situations presented.

These activities can be adapted for relevance to a particular group. Some guidelines for
designing case studies and role plays:
       • The situation presented should be familiar and evoke strong feelings among the
         participants so they will want to act on it.
      • The situation should lend itself to in-depth analysis that requires participants to
         explore underlying causes of a problem and a wide range of possible strategies
         for solving it.  Don't try to limit or direct participants' efforts too much; let them
         explore how to proceed on the matter for themselves.

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      ฎ  Enough information should be provided to outline the basic problems and issues
         to be dealt with, but it is not necessary to include every detail about a situation.
         (Participants can improve on the scenarios, calling on their own experience to
         make them realistic.)
      ฎ  Make it clear what you want participants to do with the role-play or case study
         by posing questions to be addressed or tasks to be achieved by the group. A
         good basic series of questions for most case studies include:
         *  what are the problems in the situation?
         *  how do these problems compare with ones in your own workplace?
         ฎ  what are the root causes of the problems?
         ซ  what can be done about them (what strategies are called for, what obstacles
            will be faced)?

It is important for the instructor to facilitate small group activities well.  Some guidelines
for administering small group activities:

Group size and selection

      •  Each group should contain 4-6 people.
      •  Each instructor can supervise up to 5 groups.
      •  Each group should work in a separate area.
      ฎ  Group composition can be varied during the workshop for the widest sharing of
         experience (this also prevents dominant people from establishing control over
         any one group). One way to break up groups and allow people to mix is to vary
         the size: for example, start with 5 groups of 3 each and change to 3  groups of 5.

Recording

Tell participants to select a recorder/discussion leader each time they break into a group.
This helps organize the group to work efficiently and enables people to learn important
communication and leadership skills. Some helpful techniques to review with participants
include:
      • Keep time.  Try to prevent the group from running out of time before
         completing the exercise.
      • Keep the group focused on one question at a time. Make sure all sides are heard
         before moving on to the next question.
      • Encourage participation from everyone. If one person dominates, you can say,
         "thanks for your information, maybe someone else would like to add
         something?"  Or ask someone who has been quiet if they have a different
         perspective or experience to relate.
      • Be responsible for summing up the discussion (either the consensus reached or

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          the many sides presented). This requires you to be neutral. Even though you
          have your own personal opinion, your role now is to facilitate group discussion.
        • Listen for key words and basic ideas.
        • Check things out: "Is this what you meant?"

 Supervising

 The role of the instructor during small group activities is to ensure that the groups are
 operating smoothly. At the start of a workshop, it is especially important to get people
 talking instead of working quietly as individuals. Circulate among the groups and listen
 in to assess their progress.  Make sure a recorder is selected and is fulfilling his/her roles;
 ask questions that will help them proceed if they get stuck and suggest resources they
 may have overlooked.

 It is important that the instructor NOT provide all the answers for the groups or distract
 them from working things out for themselves. It is too easy for a small group to
 disintegrate into a question and answer period between the instructor and the participants
 if the instructor hovers. There is a fine line between ignoring and intervening too much.
 Therefore, make your observations: intervene only when necessary; move on to the next
 group.  If the groups are talking among themselves and making progress, leave them
 alone.
REPORT-BACK SESSIONS

Report-back sessions which follow small group activities are more than time for
summarizing and rehashing; they are separate and important activities. The effectiveness
of small-group work is drastically reduced if not followed by adequate report-back.

Report-back sessions:
       • are not optional; always end the small groups in time to allow for ample
         discussion and analysis in the report-back sessions.
       • require as much preparation as other learning activities and need discussion
         questions to be planned ahead of tune.
       • may begin with each group giving a summary of findings but the bulk of time
         should be devoted to discussing questions that bring more depth to the issue.

In a report-back session there is time:
       • to explore what participants learned during the small group exercises,
       • to correct answers that are factually wrong,
       • to pursue a deeper analysis,

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      •  to challenge the participants to defend their analyses and conclusions,
      •  to allow groups that reached different conclusions for different reasons to learn
         from each other,
      •  to have the instructor summarize and raise any important points that did not
         come up in small group discussions.

Sample questions for instructors to pose:
         How did you come up with your conclusions?
         Why did the groups come up with different conclusions?
         Who benefits from the analysis you come up with?
         What are some of the underlying reasons for the problems you have identified?
         What further information would you need in order to come up with a more
         thorough answer to the question(s) your group addressed?

Do not be afraid to leave some questions unresolved (for example, if different participants
express views at odds with each other or are unconvinced by the group discussion).  Some
activities do not have correct answers and sometimes participants will push to have the
teacher tell what the right answer is.  However, don't be afraid to take a stand on factual
issues.

LARGE GROUP DISCUSSIONS

It takes preparation to lead an effective discussion with a large group of people.  Two
points to consider:
      • How will you initiate the discussion?
      • How will you ask questions and elicit participation to maintain the discussion?

To initiate discussion, you can:
      • Use a small group exercise or other activity (film, mini-lecture) to provide a
         common experience that participants can talk about. Plan a few specific
         questions which ask for opinions of the common experience.  After a small
         group activity, people  already will have expressed their opinions and should
         have less difficulty talking in a large group.
      • Use "brainstorming," a listening exercise, where the group is asked to generate
         as many ideas on a given topic as possible.  After a list is compiled, it is easier
         to go back and get a discussion going on some of the points already raised.
      • Use "buzz groups": briefly break into pairs or small groups to come up with
         ideas on  an issue.
      • Ask an open-ended question of the group, or pose a controversial position to
         evoke a response. This technique doesn't work so well early on in the  workshop
         when people are not yet used to talking together.

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 Once a discussion is off the ground, think about keeping it lively and on track. Pointers
 for maintaining discussions:
       • Be prepared to keep asking questions of the group which require them to come
         up with ideas themselves (rather than just responding to instructor's ideas).
         Questions should encourage participants to draw on their own experience to
         make or illustrate points. Calling on people to answer may be necessary to keep
         things moving.
       • If participants direct questions to you, you can redirect them to the group. Ask
         if others have ideas that could address the situation.
       • Try to keep everyone involved in the discussion. Don't allow one or two people
         to dominate. If necessary, stop the discussion and tell the group you will call on
         only those who have not yet spoken. Set a good example yourself by keeping
         your own comments brief.
       • Sometimes you will have to direct the discussion, with a class that likes to talk a
         lot, to make sure the section you are doing is covered thoroughly and does not
         expand to take time from later sections.  If the discussion loses its focus, try a
         couple of things to regain it; for instance, summarize points that have been
         made on the blackboard or break into small groups to summarize where
         discussion stands.

HANDS-ON EXERCISES

The purpose of hands-on exercises is to:
       • break up the day  so participants are not all sitting at tables doing book work;
         people can get up and move around, and
       • allow people to learn by doing.

Some pointers on running hands-on exercises:
       • As a rule, more instructors are needed to run hands-on  exercises than other
         activities.
       • Often classes will have participants with a range of prior experience.
         Instructors should try to plan for this by pairing buddies, splitting groups, or
         having additional instructors available to help some people.
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AUDIO-VISUAL PRESENTATIONS

A variety of audio-visual materials can be used in the workshop to supplement other
teaching methods. The more different ways that information is provided (graphics, audio,
print) the more likely people are to retain it.
      • Chalkboards or flip charts can be used for recording ideas generated by the
         group.  Having one participant record main points while you lead a discussion
         makes it easier for people to remember what was last said, introduces
         participants to a "teaching role," and reinforces the belief that solutions have to
         start with them.
         Flipcharts can be prepared ahead of time to accompany a presentation; the
         visual outline helps participants listen effectively.
      • Overhead transparencies can be prepared to accompany a lecture. Using
         overhead transparencies generally means dimming the lights, so some
         instructors prefer to use pictures drawn on flipcharts.
      • Slides and videos can present information hi an entertaining way. Used
         sparingly, they can stimulate large group discussions.
         - Videos should always be short (less than 30 minutes).
         - Make sure you pre-screen the video to check that its point of view ties in with
             what you are teaching.
         - Avoid showing videos right after lunch!
         - Using videos and slides usually means darkening the room and therefore
             reducing discussion.

EVALUATION

The final learner-centered teaching technique is the evaluation session. Evaluation is
important for:
      • ensuring that participants' needs are being met by the training; it allows the
         instructor to make appropriate adjustments of workshop content to respond to
         unmet needs.
      • helping participants to become more effective instructors by having them think
         about what they would do the same or do differently hi teaching the workshop.
      • helping instructors to become more effective; although it can be difficult to  hear
         criticisms or suggestions, instructors can always improve their ability to provide
         future training by getting feedback from the group.
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                                 LOGISTICS

 Registration:  Mailing registration forms should take place three to five weeks before
 the first session. This will give participants enough time to plan for the workshop, but not
 enough that they put any notice or announcement aside and forget about it.  Be sure to
 include a closing date for registrations in any announcement for the workshop.

 Participant Pre-work:  Each participant should receive a confirmation of
 attendance, a workshop Agenda (see later in this section), and a copy of the Garment
 Wet Cleaning Manual prior to the beginning of the workshop.  Participants should be
 asked to review the Garment Wet Cleaning Manual and agenda, and to prepare a list
 of questions that they might like to have addressed during the workshop.

 Instructor Pre-workshop tasks:  Several tasks should be completed before the first
 session.

 • Reserve space and break-out areas for the workshop. The room should be set up
       classroom style with round tables.

 • Select a site for the hands-on training. The site should have enough open area for
      participants to gather for discussion and the facility owner should be agreeable to
      workshop participants using equipment in the facility.  A few chairs should be
      available for participants to use if necessary.

 • Prepare signs to hang at each station in the plant. The signs should include; Stain
      Removal, Sorting, Wet Clean Machine, Dryer and Finishing.

 • Review registrant names. Knowing the background of participants may be useful in
      discussion groups. Individuals can be called upon to share unique experiences
      thereby adding to the depth of discussion.

 • Review the Instructor Guide and your own notes. While it is true that instructors
      use different styles, the content of the presentation should remain the same.

 • Prepare workshop materials.  Be sure that there are enough hand-outs, exercises,
      manuals and evaluation forms for all participants.  Check handout material for
      copy quality.

• Review prepared overheads.  Overheads have been prepared for the workshop and
      are referred to in the instructor notes by title.
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• Gather sufficient materials for Activities: Many of the Activities require
      demonstration materials such as fabric, fibers, MSDS's, etc. Also, it is helpful to
      bring a box supplied with masking tape, overhead markers, pens, flip chart
      markers, scissors, paper clips, stapler, ruler etc.
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                Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop

                         Workshop Overview

Workshop Overview;   This 16 hour workshop provides practical information and
experiences which participants can immediately apply in their own facilities.  The
workshop includes pre-work and in class exercises.

After attending the workshop participants will be more informed to answer the following
questions:
      *> What is garment wet cleaning?
      *J* Can I increase the percentage of wet cleaning I currently perform in my
         facility?
      *> Is it economically feasible to justify the purchase of a wet cleaning system?

Audience:   An excellent workshop for facility managers or owners to evaluate the
garment wet cleaning.

Class Size:  Maximum 15

Workshop Benefit:   Participants will gain experience and insight into the practical
application of wet cleaning

Objective of the Workshop:

To provide participants a learning environment in which to:
      *** Better understand the mechanics and logistics of garment wet cleaning.
      *> Better understand the positive environmental and public health impact of wet
            cleaning.
      <ป Experience performing garment wet cleaning procedures.

Participant Pre-workshop Work:
      1. To review the Garment Wet Cleaning Manual.
      2. To review agenda and prepare a list of questions you would like addressed
            during the workshop.

Suggested Workshop Agendas: The next two pages contain sample agendas for the
workshop. Option 1 agenda is for two day long sessions.  Option 2 might be for an
evening, a full day, and a morning. For example, Option 2 might be used for Friday
night, Saturday all day, and Sunday morning. These are only sample agendas. Each
instructor will need to modify the agenda to fit the instructor's style.

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Day One
1 hour
1 hour
20min
2 hours
1 hour
1A hour
1 hour
20min
1 hour
1A hour

Day Two

2/4 hours
20min
2 hours
1 hour
1 hour
Vzhour
20min
Vsthour
1 hour
                                 Option 1
              Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop Agenda
Introductions
Health, Safety, and Environmental Regulations
Break
Fiber, Fabric and Soil
Lunch
Garment Cleaning Methods
Overview of Wet Cleaning
Break
Economics of Wet Cleaning
Available Wet Cleaning Equipment
Hands-On Wet Cleaning
Break
Hands-On Wet Cleaning (cont.)
Lunch
Hands-On Wet Cleaning (cont.)
Facility Design
Break
Labeling Liability
Wrap-up and Discussion
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Day One
1 hour
1 hour
20min
2 hours
                                Option 2
              Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop Agenda
Introductions
Health, Safety, and Environmental Regulations
Break
Fiber, Fabric and Soil
Da Two
1 hour
20min
21A hours
1 hour
   hours
Day Three
1 hour
Vzhour
Vzhour
20min
1 VShour
Garment Cleaning Methods
Overview of Wet Cleaning
Break
Hands-On Wet Cleaning
Lunch
Hands-On Wet Cleaning (cont)
Economics of Wet Cleaning
Available Wet Cleaning Equipment
Facility Design
Break
Labeling Liability
Wrap-up and Discussion
                                  1-12

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                                    Evaluation Form

                 GARMENT WET CLEANING WORKSHOP
                                      FEEDBACK

As professionals, we are interested in continuously improving our services and products.  We would appreciate
your comments to help us achieve this 'goal.

1 A. What were your expectations of this workshop?
IB. Were your expectations met?                   Yes

Please tell us whether the following were:            Hi

2. Developing an understanding of garment
  wet cleaning

3. Workshop materials

4. Workshop instructors/facilitators

5. All day hands-on session at the wet cleaning facility

In regards to Friday and Sunday session, did the following
help you better understand garment wet cleaning.

6. Fibers, Fabric, and Soil
  Comments:

7. Garment Cleaning Methods
  Comments

8. Overview of wet cleaning
  Comments:

9. Health, Safety, and Regulations
  Comments:

10. Economics of Wet Cleaning
  Comments:

11. Available Wet Cleaning Equipment
  Comments:

12. Facility Function and Design
Partially
hly effective
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2

3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
No
Not effective
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
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 Please answer the following questions. Feel free to use additional paper if needed.

 1.  What concepts presented were most valuable?
 2.  What concepts presented were least valuable?
 3.  What suggestions do you have for improvement?
 4.  How will you use the ideas or information you learned at this workshop?
5.  What barriers might you encounter in implementing garment wet cleaning?
6.  Check the appropriate response
The training provided new insights into garment cleaning

The training provided new insights on the potential
 benefits of garment wet cleaning

I would recommend this training to other cleaners
Strongly             Don't Know/          Strongly

Agree     Agree     Unsure    Disagree    Disagree
             2

             2
4

4
TRAINING INTERESTS for ADDITIONAL COURSES
 List personal interest for additional training related to garment wet cleaning.
                                                 1-14

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                 Garment Wef Cleaning Workshop

                           Module I: Introduction

Note: For all modules, all time allocations that involve group work assume a group of 15
      people.

Module Overview:

This module gives the instructor an opportunity to welcome participants, and to set the
"tone" for the remainder of the workshop. It is important that the participants feel
comfortable asking questions during the sessions. The instructor should encourage
questions, and make participants feel involved in the workshop. There is an "icebreaker"
activity in this module.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and Student Manual.

Prepare flipcharts with the following, each on a separate sheet;
       1. Your name / Organization (to be used when you introduce yourself)

       2. Nine Dots Activity (The problem and solution should each be drawn on a
            separate flipchart sheet, see participant manual)

                Problem                            Solution
       3. To be used when partipants introduce themselves:
             Name
             Organization
             Reason for attending this workshop

 Module Highlights:

 Opening:

 Have the "Welcome to the Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop" on the projector as
 participants arrive. Introduce yourself and the organization which you represent. Discuss

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  the evolution of the government's involvement in wet cleaning using the following
  overheads:
        1.  Government Involvement
        2.  Cleaner Technology Substitution Assessment
        3.  Multiprocess Wet Cleaning
        4.  Times are Changing
        5.  Warning

        Video clips which spotlight issues surrounding perchloroethylene usage are
 available. This would be a good time in the course to show a short video.

 Activity:  See Activity on page 8 in student manual.

 Ask the participants to connect all nine dots with four straight lines, without lifting their
 pen from the paper. After a short period ask if any of the participants have figured out
 how to connect the dots. The solution (shown above) can be demonstrated by the
 instructor on a flip chart (prepared previously).

 Ask the participants why they were not able to solve the problem.  The solution is that
 one has to go outside the "box" formed by the nine dots. Then ask the participants "who
 restricted you to drawing inside the box." The answer is no-one, therefore, the limitations
 were self imposed. This is true of many problems that people face. They create the
 limits.  The purpose of this workshop is to help participants think "outside the box," to
 think creatively.

 Introductions:
  Using the prepared overhead (Name, Organization, Objectives), introduce yourself
  stating your name and organization.

  Participants should then introduce themselves by stating their name, organization, and
  then: expectations for the workshop.

 Agenda and handout material review:
 Review the following handout material:
  1 .  Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop Agenda
  2.  Garment Wet Cleaning Workshop" Manual

 Objectives: Review the module and course objectives (found in the participant manual).

Topics:
What is wet cleaning?
Who should take this course?
Why do we need a new way to clean?
A brief history of wet cleaning

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 Course Objectives
To give participants the information and experience
  they need to:
• Understand how wet cleaning works
• Understand how to set up and run a wet cleaning
  facility
• Understand how wet cleaning and dry cleaning
  affect the environment, the health of workers, and
  public health in general
• Gain first-hand experience by actually cleaning
  garments using the wet cleaning method

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Government Involvement

• International Roundtable on Pollution Prevention
  and Control in the Dry Cleaning Industry - May,
  1992

  -Convened by U.S. EPA and DfE
   '>• consider health and environmental concerns
   > participants included dry cleaning industry, allied trades,
     researchers, environmentalists and government officials
  - Goal was to reduce risks associated with perc

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Cleaner Technology Substitutes
Assessment

• DfE developing pollution prevention awareness and
 practices

• CTSA is a strategy for communicating methods fro
 reducing risks

• Evaluate potential substitutes for dry cleaning
 considering
 — environmental,
 — health and
 — economic perspectives

• Manual has been produced for the CTSA

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Multiprocess Wet Cleaning
  Study showed it is technically feasible and
  economically competitive

  Obstacles include increased labor and labeling
  requirements
  - machine wet cleaning reduces labor
  - proposed FTC labeling change

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"Times are Changing"



  • 1930fs and 1940's were profitable




  • 1950's home laundry was introduced




  • 1960fs wash and wear clothing




  • 1970's Polyester




  • 1980fs discount dry cleaner




  • 1990's casual office wear has opened a new market

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         WARNING
PROPOSITION 65 COMPLIANCE STATEMENT

 IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THIS
BUSINESS TO WARN ITS CUSTOMERS AND
EMPLOYEES THAT PRODUCTS SOLD OR
USED ON THESE PREMISES MAY CONTAIN
CHEMICALS KNOWN TO THE STATE OF
CALIFORNIA TO CAUSE CANCER OR BIRTH
DEFECTS.
           t
   CALIFORNIA HEALTH & SAFETY COD SEC. 25249.5 ET SEQ.

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Connect the nine dots

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Course Objectives
 Better understand the mechanics and logistics of
 garment wet cleaning

 Better understand the positive environmental and
 public health impact of wet cleaning

 Experience performing garment wet cleaning
 procedures

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Better understand the mechanics and
logistics of garment wet cleaning
  Started with a high volume, short term "multiprocess
  wet cleaning demonstration in Nov. and Dec. of
  1992
  - multiprocess wet cleaning is a process where garments are
   spot cleaned and tumbled dried

  Currently two full scale government funded studies
  are on-going
    ป Environment Canada
    * Center for Neighborhood Technology

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Introduction
 Curriculum and course have been developed to train
 fabricare specialists and staff the techniques of wet
 cleaning and how to operate a wet cleaning facility

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It is hoped that after
participating in this course you
will increase your percentage of
wet cleaning and/or water based
cleaning

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          Module II: Health, Safety, and Environmental Regulations

Module Overview:

This module gives participants basic information that they need in order to understand the
regulatory framework in which they operate, and the occupational and environmental
risks associated with dry and wet cleaning.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.
Review Activity and following MSDS

Module Highlights:

Activity:
This activity introduces participants to Material Data Safety Sheets (MSDS). There is no
standard format for an MSDS, although they are required to have certain information.
MSDSs should have the following information:
  • ingredients,
  • physical data,
  • fire and explosion hazard data,
  • reactivity data,
  • environmental and disposal information,
  • health hazard data,
  ซ first aid,
  • handling precautions, and
  • additional information.

Have participants review the four following MSDSs. For a small class (about 10
participants) assign each individual all four. Review the sections of an MSDS pointing
out the relevance of each section. For a larger class break into groups of four or five
participants, and give each group all four MSDSs. Then ask the participants to try to
identify the product (by type, eg. Detergent) for each of the MSDS. The answer key is
below. Point out that even, chemicals that we normally think of as "harmless" have some
associated health issues.

MSDS # 1 - Perchloroethylene
MSDS # 2 - Wet Clean Detergent
MSDS # 3 - Dry Side Stain Removal Agent
MSDS # 4 - Toothpaste

Topics:
What are the hazards?
Who makes the rules?
What rules are currently in effect?
What are the potential liabilities?

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                                                                           #1
               1.  INGREDIENTS: (% w/w, unless otherwise noted)
                                                       CAS# oooi27-i8-iป  99.9%
                    This document is prepared pursuant to the OSHA Hazard
                    Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200).  In addition, other
                    substances not 'Hazardous1 per this OSHA Standard may be
                    listed.  Where proprietary ingredient shows, the identity
                    may be made available as  provided in this standard.
              2.  PHYSICAL DATA:

                   BOILING POINT:  25ฐF (121.1C)
                   VAP PRESS:  13 mmHg ง 20C
                   VAP DENSITY:  5.76
                   SOL. IN WATER:  0.015 g/lOOg 25C
                   SP.  GRAVITY:  1.619 @ 25/25C
                   APPEARANCE:  Colorless liquid.
                   ODOR:  Ether-like
             1 FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD DATA:

                   FLASH POINT:  None
                   METHOD USED:  TCC, TOC, COC

                   FLAMMABLE LIMITS
                   LFL:  None
                   UFL:  None

                   EXTINGUISHING MEDIA:   Non-flammable material.

                   FIRE & EXPLOSION HAZARDS:  No autoignition temperature.

                  FIRE-FIGHTING EQUIPMENT:  Wear positive pressure self-contained
                    respiratory equipment.


         MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
_

-------
 4.  REACTIVITY DATA:

       STABILITY:   (CONDITIONS  TO  AVOID)  Avoid open  flames, welding
         arcs• or other  hJgh  temperature sources which  induce  thermal
         decomposi t i on.

       INCOMPATIBILITY:   (SPECIFIC MATERIALS TO AVOID)  Strong acids and
         oxidizing materials.

       HAZARDOUS DECOMPOSITION  PRODUCTS:  Involvement in fire forms
         hydrogen chloride and  small amounts of phosgene and chlorine.

       HAZARDOUS POLYMERIZATION:  Will  not  occur.
 5.  ENVIRONMENTAL AND DISPOSAL INFORMATION:

       ACTION TO TAKE FOR SPILLS/LEAKS:   Small  leaks  -  mop up,  wipe up,
         or  soak up immediately.  Remove to out of  doors.
         Large spills - evacuate area.   Contain liquid;  transfer  to
         closed metal  containers.  Keep  out of water  supply.

       DISPOSAL METHOD:   When disposing  of  unused contents,  the
         preferred options  are to send to  licensed  reclaimers or  to
         permitted incinerators.  Any disposal practice must be in
         compliance with  federal,  state, and  local  laws and  regulations.
         Do  not dump  into sewers,  on the ground, or into any body of
         water.


6.  HEALTH HAZARD DATA:

      EYE:  May cause pain,  and slight transient  (temporary) irritati
        Vapors may irritate  the eyes at about 100 ppm.
  Vapors may irritate the eyes at about 100

SKIN CONTACT:  Short single exposure not likely to cause
  significant skin irritation.  Prolonged or repeated exposure
                                                               on.

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6.   HEALTH  HAZARD DATA:   (CONTINUED]

        may cause skin  irritation, even a burn.  Repeated contact
        may cause drying or flaking of skin.

      SKIN ABSORPTION:  A single prolonged exposure is not likely to
        result in the material being absorbed through  skin in harmful
        amounts.   The LD50 for skin absorption in rabbits is  >10,000
        mg/kg.

      INGEST10N:   Single dose  oral  toxicity  is  low.  The  LD50 for rats
        is  >5000  mg/kg.   If  aspirated  (liquid  enters the  lung), may  be
        rapidly absorbed through the  lungs and  result  in  injury to
        other  body systems.

      INHALATION:  In  confined or poorly ventilated areas vapors  can
        readily accumulate and can  cause unconsciousness and death.
        Dizziness may  occur at 200  ppm; progressively higher  levels may
       also cause nasal  irritation, nausea,  incoordination, drunkeness;
       and over  1000  ppm, unconsciousness and death.  A single brief
        (minutes)  inhalation exposure to levels above 6000 ppm may be
        immediately dangerous  to life.  Based on structural  analogy
       and/or equivocal  data 'in animals,  excessive exposure may
       potentially increase sensitivity to epinephrine and increase
       myocardial irritability  (irregular heartbeats).   Alcohol
       consumed before or after  exposure  may increase  adverse effects.

     SYSTEMIC  (OTHER  TARGET ORGAN)  EFFECTS:   Signs  and  symptoms of
       excessive  exposure may  be central  nervous  system effects and
       anesthetic or  narcotic  effects..  Observations in animals  include
       liver and  kidney  effects.

     CANCER INFORMATION:   For  hazard communication purposes under OSHA
       Standard 29 CFR Part  1910.1200,  this  chemical is listed as a
       potential  carcinogen by IARC and MTP.  Perchloroethylene has
       been shown to  increase  the rate of spontaneously occurring
      malignant  tumors  in certain  laboratory rats and mice.  Other

-------
 8.  HiALTH HAZARD DATA:  (CONTINUED)

         long-term inhalation studies in rats  failed to show tumorigsnic
         response.   Epidemiology studies are  limited and have not
         established an association between perchloroethylerie exposure
         and  cancer.   Perchloroethylene is not  believed to pose a
         measureabJe carcinogenic risk  to man when  handled as
         recommended.

      TERATOLOGY  (BIRTH DEFECTS):   Birth defects are  unlikely.
      '"   Exposures having no effect on  the mother should have no effect
         on the fetus.   Did not cause birth defects  in animals;  other
         effects were  seen  in the fetus  only at doses  which  caused  toxic
         effects to  the mother.

      HUTAGENICJTY  (EFFECTS ON  GENETIC  MATERIAL) :   Results  of  in vitro
         (test tube)  mutagenicrty tests  have been negative.
7.   FIRST AID:

      EYES:  Irrigate immediately with water for at least 5 minutes.

      SKIN:  Wash off in flowing water or shower.

      INGESTION:  Do not induce vomiting.  Call  a physician and/or
        transport to emergency facility immediately.

      INHALATION:  Remove to fresh air.  If not  breathing, give
        mouth-to-mouth resuscitation.  If breathing is difficult, give
        oxygen.   Call a physician.

      NOTE TO PHYSICIAN:  Because rapid absorption may occur through
        lungs if aspirated and cause systemic effects, the decision of
        whether  to induce vomiting or not should be made by a
        physician.  If lavage is performed,  suggest endotracheal and/or
        esophageal control.  Danger from lung aspiration must be

-------
                  7.   FIRST AID:  (CONTINUED)

                          weighed against  toxicity when considering emptying the stomach.
                          If burn is present,  treat as any thermal burn, after
                          decontamination.  Exposure may increase "myocardia!
                          irritability".  Do not administer sympathomimetic drugs unless
                          absolutely necessary.  No specific antidote.  Supportive care.
                          Treatment based on judgment of the physician in response to
                          reactions of the patient.
                  8.  HANDLING PRECAUTIONS:

                        EXPOSURE  GUIDELINE (S)s   Perchloroethylene:   OSHA PEL  is  25
                         TWA.  ACGIH  TLV is 50 ppm TWA;  STEL  is  200 ppm.

                        VENTILATION:   Control  airborne concentrations  below the  exposure
                         guideline.   Use only  with adequate ventilation.  Local exhaust
                         ventilation  may be necessary for some operations.   Lethal
                         concentrations  may exist  in areas with  poor  ventilation.

                        RESPIRATORY PROTECTION:  Atmospheric levels  should be maintained
                         below the exposure guideline.  When respiratory protection  is
                         required for certain  operations, use an approved air-purifying
                         respirator.  For emergency and other conditions where  the
                         exposure guideline may be greatly exceeded, use an approved
                         positive-pressure  self-contained breathing apparatus or positive
                         pressure airline with auxilliary self-contained air  supply.  In
                         confined or poorly ventilated areas,  use an approved positive
                         pressure self-contained air breathing apparatus.

                       SKIN PROTECTION:   For brief contact,  no precautions  other than
                         clean body-covering clothing should be needed.  When prolonged
                         or frequently repeated contact  could  occur, use protective
                         clothing impervious to this material.   Selection of  specific
                         items such  as gloves,  boots,  apron, or full body suit will
                         depend on operation.
_

-------
 8.  HANDLING  PRECAUTIONS:   (CONTINUED)


       EYE PROTECTION:  Use safety glasses.   Where contact with liquid
         5s likely, chemical goggles are recommended because eye contact
         with  this material may cause discomfort,  even though it is
         unlikely to cause injury.


 9.  ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

       SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS TO BE  TAKEN IN  HANDLING AND  STORAGE:   Handle
         with  reasonable care and caution.   Avoid  breathing  vapors.
         Vapors of this  product are  heavier  than air  and will  collect  in
         low areas such  as pits,  degreasers.  storage  tanks,  and  other
         confined areas.  Do not  enter these  areas  where vapors  of  this
         product are suspected unless  special breathing apparatus  is
         used  and an observer is  present for  assistance.

MSDS STATUS:   Revised section 9  and  regsheet.

-------
                                                            #2
 1.1 CHEMICAL CHARACTERIZATION: Combination of surface active agent,
 proprietary anti shrinkage, anti felting and protecting agents dissolved in water.
 1.2 FORM:  Liquid     1.3 COLOR  Amber

 2.   PHYSICAL DATA AND SAFETY DATA
                      1.4  ODOR  Perfumed
 2.1  Change in Physical State
 2.2  Density at 20
 2.3  Vapor Pressure at 20
 2.4  Viscosity at 20
 2.5  Solubility in Water
 2.6  ph Value (1%) at 20
 2.7  Flash Point
 2.8  Ignition Temperature
 2.9  Explosion Limits
 2.10 Thermal Decomposition
 2.11 Hazardous Decomposition Products
 2.12 Hazardous Reactions
 2.13 Further Information
               1.04 g/ccm
               Approx. 18m bar
               30-50 cps
               Miscible
               5-5.5
               > 100 degrees C
               Not tested
               Not tested

               None
               None
3. TRANSPORT
Not Regulated
        GGVS/GGV'F/ADR/RID: Class:
        Technical Name:
        Packing Group:
        GGVSee/IMDG Code:
        Technical Name:
        Packing Group: N/A
        IATA:          Class: N/A
        Technical Name: N/A
           N/A
           N/A
           N/A
           Class: N/A
           N/A
           EmSNo: N/A
              UN No: N/A
Number: N/A


UN No: N/A

MFAGNo: N/A
4.  REGULATIONS
       Not regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency.
       Not classified under CHIP regulations ( Hazardous Substance Regulations) 1995
  MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET

-------
 5. PROTECTIVE MEASURES, STORAGE & HANDLING

 5.1 Technical Protective Measures: Not Necessary
 5.2 Personal Protective Equipment
     -Respiratory Protection:
     -Eye Protection:  Not necessary unless significant risk of splashing during handling.
     -Hand Protection: Not necessary unless repeated or continuous contact.
     -Other:
 5.3 Industrial Hygiene: Standard hygiene practice to be observed
 5.4 Protection Against Fire and Explosion: Not Necessary.
 5.5 Disposal:  After dilution, may be passed to a biological waste water purification
 plant through the sanitary sewer.

 6.  MEASURE IN CASE OF ACCIDENTS & FIRE

 6.1  Spillage/Leakage: Flush away with water.
 6.2 Extinguishing Media: Suitable  foam powder water C02
                            Not Suitable:
 6.3  First Aid
      -Skin contact: Wash with soap and water
      -Eye contact: Rinse immediately with plenty of water, seek medical advice if
 irritation persists.
      -Ingestion:  Seek medical attention.
      -Inhalation:  N/A
 6.4 Further information:

 7. INFORMATION ON TOXICITY: Not tested. No harmful effects to health are
 known to date.

 8. INFORMATION ON ECOLOGICAL EFFECTS: No adverse effects upon
waste water treatment  plants have been found.

9. FURTHER INFORMATION: Water Hazard Class 2 (self classification)

This information is based upon present information and knowledge.  This MSDS
describes products with relation to safety requirements. The information does not
assure absolute properties.

-------
               MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
                               I. IDENTIFICATION
 Product Name:
 Chemical Name:
 CAS Number:            Mixture:
 Emergency Telephone Number:
                  II. COMPONENTS AND HAZARD INFORMATION
 Component
CAS No. Of
Component
TLVof
Component
OSHA
PEL
Approximate:
Concentration
None under 29 CI.R 1910.1200 N.T.P. ACGIH, NEPA, JARC

D.O.T. Hazard Classification: Not applicable,
Hazardous Materials Identification System (HMIS)
      'Health      Flammability       Reactivity
       1           0                 0
                                   BASIS
                                   Recommended by company
                                   BASIS
                                   Calculated TLV Ref ACGIH
                              III. PHYSICAL DATA
Boiling Point: 215oF
Vapor Pressure: Not determined
Specific Gravity: 1,0100
                             Vapor Density: Not determined
                             Percent ???
                             Evaporation Rate: Not determined
                        IV. FIRE AND EXPLOSION DATA

Flash Point (oF TCC): Not applicable
Extinguishing Media: Not applicable
Special Firefighting Procedure: None
Unusual Pure & Explosion Hazards: None
National Fire Protection Association: (NFPA) - Hazard Identification
      Health       Flammability        Reactivity         Basis
        1              0               0
                          V. HEALTH HAZARD DATA
Effects of Overexposure:
      Eyes:  Mild transient irritant
      Skin:  Mild irritant skin with prolonged contact
      Breathing: None known
      Swallowing: Can contribute to gastrointestinal irritant

-------
 First Aid Procedures:
       Swallowing:  Obtain medical attention
       Skin:        Wash with soap and water
       Inhalation:   If affected remove individual to fresh air
       Eyes:        Flush with water for at least 15 minutes

 Health studies have shown that health risks vary from person to person.  As a precaution
 exposure to hazards, vapors, misty fumes or dust should be minimized.

                               VI. REACTIVITY DATA

 Hazardous Polymerization: Will not occur
 Stability: Stable
 Incompatibility: Not applicable
 Hazardous Decomposition Products: None known

                          VII. SPILL OR LEAK PROCEDURES

 Steps to be taken in case material is released or spilled
 Check local, state and federal regulations.  May be flushed into sewage system

                       VIII. PROTECTION AND PRECAUTIONS

 Respiratory Protection: None required
 Ventilation: local exhaust ventilation recommended
 Protective gloves:    Not necessary
 Eye Protection: Chemical splash goggles if eye contact is likely
 Other Protective Equipment: Not necessary

                     IX. PRECAUTIONS OR OTHER COMMENTS

 Precautions to be taken in handling and storing: Maintain good housekeeping. Avoid contact
 with eye. Wash thoroughly after handling. Use with adequate ventilation.
 The information and recommendations accumulated herein are to the best of knowledge and
 belief, accurate and reliable as of the date issued. The  company does not warrant or guarantee
 their accuracy or reliability, and shall not be liable for any loss or damage arising out of the use
 thereof.
 HMIS ans NFPA recommended ratings are based upon the criteria supplied by the developers of
these rating systems together with interpretation of the available data.

-------
                                                                                               #4
                                MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
         Hazard Rating:
                Health: 0
                Flammability: 0
                Reactivity: 0
      4=EXTREME
      3=HIGH
      2=MODERATE
      1=SLJGHT
        Date:
3/1/95
 2.  COMPOSITION & INGREDIENTS
        Components
        Water
        Sodium fluoride
        Hydrated silica
        Sorbitoi
        Trisodium phosphate
        Sodium lauiyi sulfate
        Sodium phosphate
        Xanthan gum (not in Icy Clean paste)
        Flavor
        Titanium dioxide

        Carbomer 956
        Sodium saccharin
        FD&CBIueNo. 1
        Mica
        Cellulose gum

3.  HAZARDS IDENTIFICATION
    •   Emergency Overview: Tsls                  may produce transient eye irritation. Ingestion of small
    amounts may cause nausea, vomiting, and mild GI irritation; ingestion of larger amounts may cause symptoms of
    fluoride toxicity which should be evaluated by medical professional.

    •  Potential Health Effects:
              Eye - May produce transient superficial eye irritation.
              Skin - Prolonged exposure may produce transient irritation.
              Inhalation - NA
              Ingestion - Nausea and vomiting may occur within minutes, and diarrhea and mild GI
              irritation may occur up to 24 hours after ingestion of small amounts (1 oz or more).
              Ingestion of larger amounts (> 3oz in children; > 8 oz in adults) may cause symptoms of
              fluoride toxicity.

-------
  4. FIRST AID MEASURES
     •   Eye - Rinse thoroughly with water.
         Oral irritation - Discontinue use. See MD if symptoms persist
     •   Skin - Rinse with water.
     •   Ingestion - If a small amount (1 oz or more) has been ingested, administer milk (water or other  liquid if milk is
         not available) to dilute stomach contents.  If a large amount (> 3 oz in children; > 8 oz in adults) has been
         ingested, administer milk (water or other liquid if milk is not available) to dilute stomach contents and contact a
         medical professional for fcrther advice.
     e   Inhalation - NA

 5.  FIRE FIGHTING MEASURES
     o    Flash Point & Methoฑ >200ฐF (closed cup)
     ซ    Explosive Limits: NA
     a    Augoignition Temperaisre: NK
     e    Fiammabiiity Classifksrion: Non-flammable
     a    Hazardous Products of Combustion: None known
     e    Extinguishing Media: Use water spray, dry chemical, alcohol foam or CC>2
     o    Fire Fighting Instructions:  No special instructions
     e   Other Fire Fighting Considerations: None Known

 6.   ACCIDENTAL RELEASE MEASURES
     e   Persona! Precautions: None known
     o   Environmental Precautions: None known
     ซ   Procedures for Spill/Leak Clean-up: Wipe up with sorbent material. Collect and place in a suitable disposal
        container. Prevent front reaching waterways. Landfill for small quantities.

 7.   HANDLING AND STORAGE
    a   Precautions for Safe Handling: None
    •   Conditions for Safe Storage: None
    e   Other Recommendations: None

 8.  EXPOSURE CONTROLS. PERSONAL PROTECTION
    e   Engineering Controls: None required
    ซ   Personal Protective Equipment
        - Eye: None required
        - Skin: None required
        - Inhalation: None required
    e   Other Controls:  None

9.  PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
                                           Melting Point:  NA
       Odor Threshold:  NK
       Physical State:  Paste
       Vapor Density: NK
Boiling Point: NA
Solubility in Water: Moderately soluble

Other Data:  None
Vapor Pressure: NA

-------
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-------
                       Module III: From Fiber to Garment
Module Overview:

This module is a review of basic textile science.  It will help ensure that all participants
have at least a common vocabulary during the workshop.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.

This module has two activities.  In order to prepare for these activities, the instructor
should carefully read about the activities in the participant manual (pages 43 and 44.)
Materials needed for these activities include:

Burn test
  Be sure that the facility knows that you will be preforming this test. Make sure that
  participants are careful with matches and that all work is done over the aluminum foil.
  - aluminum foil (approximately one square foot/participant)
  - swatches of a variety of fabric, eg. rayon, cotton, silk, wool, acrlyic, polyester, nylon
      (enough for several swatches / participant)
  - matches
  - tweezers (one for each two participants)

Tensile test
  - strands of fibers (two strands per participant)
  - paper cup with eyedropper (one set for each two participants)
  - water

Module Highlights:

Activities:
Fiber and fabric burn test
Fiber identification by tensile strength

Topics:
Fibers, yarns, and fabrics
The effect of cleaning on fibers
The effect of cleaning on fabrics
Garment construction
How to identify fibers

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FIBER, FABRIC AND
      SOIL

-------
Learning Objective

   To provide a basic understanding of
   fiber properties, yarn structure and
   fabric structure, and their impact on
   the process of cleaning clothes.

-------
                        OUTLINE
I.    Fibers
II.
     A. Definitions

     B. Types of fibers

     C. Properties
        1. Mechanical
        2. Chemical

     D. Identification

     Yarns
HI.   Fabric Types

     A. Woven fabrics

     B. Knitted fabrics

     C. Nonwoven fabrics

IV.   Coloring Textiles

     A. Dyeing

     B. Printing

V.   Finishing Textiles

VI.   Garment Construction

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            DEFINITIONS


  a formation with a length at least one
  hundred times greater than the width;
  with hairlike dimensions

       fiber
  fiber of relatively short length,
  measured in inches or centimeters

filament fiber
  indefinitely long fibers, measured in
  yards or meters

natural fiber
  fiber that exists as a fiber in the natural
       - animal, plant, or mineral
             \
manufactured fiber
  fiber produced commercially through
  regeneration of natural materials or
  synthesis from chemicals

-------
              DEFINITIONS

abrasion
  the wearing away of material through
  rubbing against another surface

crocking
  transfer of color from the surface of a
  colored fabric to another surface

bleaching
  the procedure of improving the whiteness
  of a textile by oxidation or reduction of the
  coloring matter

hydrophilic
  having  an affinity for water; "water-loving"

hydrophobic
  having  no affinity for water; "water-hating"

oleophilic
  having  an affinity for oil; "oil-loving"

-------
              DEFINITIONS

tenacity
  the strength of a fiber when expressed as
  force per unit linear density

unit linear density
  the weight of a specified length of fiber

elasticity
  the immediate recovery of size and shape
  after deformation

dimensional stability
  the ability of a fiber or yarn to withstand
  shrinking or stretching

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Major Classifications of Textile Fibers (Chart in Excel)

-------
           FIBER PROPERTIES
           Tenacity (Strength)

Acetate
Acrylic
Cotton
Linen
Modacrylic
Nylon
Olefin
Polyester
Rayon
Silk
Wool
Dry
(grams/denier)
1.2-1.5
2.0 - 3.5
3.0 - 5.0
Wet
(grams/denier)
0.8-1.2
1.8-3.3
3.3 - 6.4
stronger than cotton
2.0 - 3.5
3.0 - 6.0*
4.8 - 7.0
4.0 - 5.0*
0.73 - 2.6*
2.4 - 5.1
1.0-1.7
2.0 - 3.5
2.6 - 5.4
4.8 - 7.0
4.0 - 5.0
0.70-1.8
1.8-4.2
0.8-1.6
high tenacity nylon as high as 9.5 g/den
high tenacity polyester as high as 8.0 g/den
high wet modulus rayon - 4.5 g/den

-------
    FIBER PROPERTIES
Elasticity & Dimensional Stability

Acetate
Acrylic
Cotton
Linen
Modacrylic
Nylon
Olefin
Polyester
Rayon
Silk
Wooi
Elasticity
poor
good
poor
poor
fair
excellent
excellent
excellent
poor
good
excellent
Dimensional Stability
fair
poor
good
good
good if not exposed to
high temperatures
good if not exposed to
high temperatures
good if not exposed to
high temperatures
good if not exposed to
high temperatures
poor
good
poor

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   FIBER PROPERTIES
       Absorbency

Acetate
Acrylic
Cotton
Linen
Modacrylic
Nylon
Olefin
Polyester
Rayon
Silk
Wool
Moisture Regain (%)*
6.0-
1.0-
7.0-
8.0-
0.4-
4.0-
6.5
2.5
11.0
12.0
4.0
4.5
0.01-0.1
0.2-
11.0-
11
13.0-
0.8
15.0
.0
18.0
as a percentage of the dry weight at
70ฐF and 65% relative humidity

-------
          FIBER PROPERTIES
            Effect of Bleaches
Acetate
Acrylic
Cotton
Linen
Modacrylic
Nylon
Polyester
Rayon
Silk
Wool
resistant to peroxygen bleaches* under 90 ฐF
highly resistant
resistant, but chlorine bleaches will destroy if
uncontrolled
similar to cotton
some fibers may be harmed by chlorine bleach
resistant to reducing bleaches;
may be harmed by chlorine and strong oxidizers
highly resistant
can withstand reducing and oxidizing bleaches;
attacked by strong oxidizing bleaches
deteriorates in chlorine bleach;
resistant to peroxygen bleaches
will yellow and dissolve in sodium hypochlorite;
damaged by most oxidizing bleaches;
less damage by reducing bleaches
e.g.; hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate

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FIBER PROPERTIES
 Effects of Alkalies
Acetate
Acrylic
Cotton
Linen
Modacrylic
Nylon 66
Olefin
Polyester
Rayon
Silk
Wool
little effect from cold, weak alkalies
destroyed by strong alkalies at a boil;
resists weak alkalies
swells when treated with caustic soda, but
is not damaged
very resistant
resistant to alkalies
little or no effect
very resistant
resistant to cold alkalies; slowly
decomposed at a boil by strong alkalies
no effect by cold, weak alkalies; swells
and loses strength in concentrated
alkalies
similar to wool, but damage is slower
attacked by weak alkalies; destroyed by
strong alkalies

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FIBER PROPERTIES
  Effects of Acids
Acetate
Acrylic
Cotton
Linen
Modacrylic
Nylon 66
Olefin
Polyester
Rayon
Silk
Wool
soluble in acetic acid; decomposed by
strong acids
resistant to most acids
similar to rayon
similar to rayon
resistant to most acids
decomposed by strong mineral acids,
resistant to weak acids
very resistant
resistant to most mineral acids;
disintegrated by 96% sulfuric
disintegrates in hot dilute and cold
concentrated acids
similar to wool, but more sensitive
destroyed by hot sulfuric, otherwise
unaffected by acids

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   FIBER PROPERTIES
Effects of Organic Solvents
Acetate
Acrylic
Cotton
Linen
Modacryiic
Nylon 66
Olefin
Polyester
Rayon
Silk
Wool
soluble in acetone; dissolved or swollen
by many others
unaffected
resistant
unaffected
soluble in warm acetone, otherwise
unaffected
generally unaffected; soluble in some
phenolic compounds
soluble in chlorinated hydrocarbons
above 160ฐF
soluble in some phenolic compounds,
otherwise unaffected
unaffected
unaffected
generally resistant

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          FIBER PROPERTIES
             Effect Of Heat
Things to consider:
      Softening, melting, or decomposition
      temperatures

      Tendency of a fiber or fabric to
      shrink when heat-relaxed, or to
      stretch when heated and tensioned

      Ability of a fabric to be heat set

      Ability of a fabric to function properly
      after exposure at high temperature
      for a given period of time

      Ability of a fabric to function properly
      at elevated temperatures in single or
      repeated use

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         FIBER PROPERTIES
         Thermal Properties1
Fiber Type
Melting Point
Fฐ
Cฐ
Softening or
Sticking Point
Fฐ
Cฐ
Safe Ironing
Temperature
Fฐ
Cฐ
NATURAL
Cotton
Flax
Bilk
Wool
Nonmelting
Nonmelting
Nonmelting
Nonmelting
425
450
300
300
218
232
149
149
MANUFACTURED
Acetate
Triacetate
Acrylic
n/godacrylic
Nylon 6
Nylon 66
Olefin*
Polyester
Rayon
Saran
Spandex
Vinyon
446
575
230
302
Does not melt
410
414
482
275
480
210
212
250
135
249
364
482
400-490
300
340
445
260
460
184
250
204-254
149
171
229
127
238
Nonmelting
350
446
285
177
230
140
300
347
200
149
175
93
350
464
300-350
200-250
300
350
150
325
375
177
240
149-176
93-121
149
177
66
163
191
Do not iron
300
149
Do not iron
Iron at lowest possible setting
    Adapted from Moser, 1994

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BURN TEST2
     1.   Clip a small sample from an unexposed area of the garment.

     2.   Unravel to a single yarn.  If the fabric has several different yarns,
          it is imporatant to test all.

     3.   Hold yarn with tweezers.

     4.   Bring a flame to the edge of the yarn arid observe reaction.

     5.   Bring the flame to the yarn until  it burns.

     6.    Observe the result in three ways:
             •  smell and look at the smoke
             •  look at the appearance of the burnt residue
             •  once it has cooled, feel the residue

          Compare observed results with Fiber Identification by Burning
          table.
       adapted from SEFA's Wet Cleaning Clinic, C.J.Schwass.

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           FIBER IDENTIFICATION BY BURNING3
FIBER
BURNING
CHARACTERISTICS
ODOR OF
RESIDUE
APPEARANCE
CELLULOSE FIBERS
acetate
cotton
linen
rayon
yellow flame,
meits
yellow flame, continues to
burn when flame removed
yellow flame, continues to
bum when flame removed
yellow flame, continues to
burn when flame removed
acetic acid or
vinegar
burning wood
, or paper
burning wood
or paper
burning wood
or paper
hard bead - cannot crush
grey fluffy ash
grey fluffy ash
grey fluffy ash
PROTEIN FIBERS
silk
wool
burns in short jumps, does
not burn when flame
removed
burns in short jumps, does
not burn when flame
removed
burning hair
burning hair
crushable black bead
crushabfe black bead
SYNTHETIC FIBERS
acrylic
modacrylic
nylon
olefin
polyester
spandex
ignites and burns
meits, does not burn when
flame is removed
melts, does not burn when
flame is removed
meits, burns with sooty
smoke, continues to burn
when flame removed
shrinks from flame and
melts; may self-extinguish
meits
acrid
acrid
burning wax
chemical odor
strong
pungent or
sweet odor
mustv
hard black bead - cannot
crush
hard bead - cannot crush
amber bead - cannot
crush
hard bead - cannot crush
hard bead - cannot crush
soft sticky, gummy
3  Adapted from table by Jane Rising, IFI, and Tortora, Phyllis, Understanding Textiles. Fourth
   Edition, MacMillan, NY, 1992.

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                DEFINITIONS

yarn
  an assembly of fibers twisted or otherwise
  held together in a continuous strand

twist
  "turns" given to fibers in a yarn to help them
  stay together

ply
  a single yarn twisted into a consolidated "ply
  yarn"

simple yarns
  yarns with uniform size and regular surface

fancy yarns (a.k.a. complex or novelty
yarns)
  yarns made to create interesting or
  decorative effects

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              \   \,
-FIBERSTWISTED INTO
 SINGLE YARNS
                             TWO SINGLE YARNS TWISTED
                             INTO PLY YARNS
                             THREE PLY YARNS TWISTED
                             INTO A CORD
Figure 14.2.  Yarns depicted are.-
(a) monofilament—solid single strand
of unlimited length; (b) multifilament
—many continuous filaments;
(c) staple—many short fibers twisted
together? (d) two-ply—two single
yarns twisted together. Drawings re-
produced courtesy of John Wiley &
Sons, Inc., from Textile yarns-. Technol-
ogy, Structure, and Applications, by
B. C. Goswami, J. G. Martindale, and
F. L Scardino, p. 2.

-------
                 DEFINITIONS

woven fabric
  two sets of parallel yarns - one horizontal set and
  one vertical set - that are interlaced to form a
  fabric
  warp
    yarn running lengthwise in a woven fabric
  filling or weft
    yarn running crosswise in a woven fabric


knitted fabric
  one or more continuous yarns that are looped
  through themselves to form interconnected
  chains
  courses
    lines of stitches that run in rows along the
    crosswise direction  of the knitted fabric
  wales
    lines of stitches that run in columns along the
    lengthwise direction of the knitted fabric
lace
  made of yarns that are knotted, twisted or looped
  to provide a fragile, sheer pattern, often with
  intricate designs

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   TYPES OF WOVEN FABRICS
           PLAIN
           TWILL
           SATIN

I.
  I
   X
        1

-------
       TYPES OF WOVEN FABRICS
                       PILE
     UNCUT LOOP
CUT LOOP
FLOATS
WARP YARNS'
                    CORDUROY
                       Floats Are Cut
                      Cut Floats Form Pile
                                               FILLING YARN
                                               FLOATS
                                            BINDER YARNS
                                            BASE FILLINGS
                      PILE FILLING YARNS,
                    BASE WARPS

                   Cross-action of Pile Fabric (Corduroy)
  BASE FILLING BINDER YARNS

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              DEFINITIONS

fabric count
  the "closeness" of the weave, or
  the number of yarns in one square inch of
  fabric

  examples:

   a)  80x64
         80 warp yarns (length)
         64 fill yarns (width)

   b)  80 x 80 = 80 square = 160 count
         80 warp yarns (length)
         80 fill yarns (width)

-------
              DEFINITIONS
fabric weight
  weight of a specified area of fabric

  ounces/yard (grams/meter)
   high number -ป heavy fabric

  yards/pound (meters/kilogram)
   high number -ป light fabric
WEIGHT
light
medium
heavy
very heavy
OZ / SQ.YD.
1 -4
5-7
9-11
over 14
EXAMPLES
sheers, gauze, blouses
shirts, slacks
jeans
upholstery

-------
   TYPES OF KNITTED FABRICS
           WEFT KNITS
 PLAIN
            PURL
                      TRANSFER
                               SPREAD
MISS OR FLOAT
           TUCK
                            CROSS
           WARP KNITS

-------
       FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS

WOVEN FABRICS
      stability
      high lengthwise shrinkage
      strength
KNITTED FABRICS
      Comfortable
      Tend to stretch/distort
      High shrinkage
      Can be "blocked"
      Snagging -€> single yarn
      Pilling
    > especially synthetics & loose twist
      yarns
    > abrasion =f> tiny balls
    > weak fibers break
    > stronger fibers hold on

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          NONWOVEN FABRICS

Fabrics made by bonding together a web of
fibers through physical or chemical adhesion,
knotting, stitching, or other means.

Examples
  •*   interfacings
  •*   insulation materials
  •*   shoulder pads
  •*   upholstery & drapes

Characteristics
  •*   low strength
  •*   poor abrasion resistance
  •*   delamination
  •o-   differential shrinkage

felt
  made primarily of wool fibers, activating the
  natural "felting" properties of wool through
  mechanical and chemical action, moisture
  and heat

-------
                SHRINKAGE

 Natural Shrinkage
     depends on fiber properties
     wool & rayon

 Progressive Shrinkage
  •ซ• continues through successive cleanings

 Residual Shrinkage
  •ป shrinkage remaining in a fabric even after
     preshrinking

Relaxation Shrinkage
   ' takes place during initial cleaning
    fibers, yarns, fabric have "memory"
    fabric is stretched in processing
    tension is removed
    water helps  relaxation of tension
  •ป• woven fabrics
     ฐ* warp yarns under greater pressure,
         so tend to shrink more
     knitted fabrics
     ฐป stretch a lot in process, so shrink
        and distort in wash

-------
       DYEING & COLORFASTNESS

A textile can get its color as a:
   ฎ^ polymer
   *& fiber
   ^ yarn
   •* fabric
   •o- garment

Batter dye penetration = Better colorfastness

Different dyes used for different fibers
varying levels of colorfastness

Possible Causes of Color Loss
    •ง> water
    *& chemicals
       (perchloroethylene, chlorine)
    •* (sun)light
    •ง> perspiration
    ^ heat
    ^ abrasion (crocking)
    *& poor dyeing process

-------
            TEXTILE FINISHES
 Why use finishes?
      modify appearance
      modify behavior
      both
How are they applied to fabrics?
   •* mechanical means
   •ป• chemical means
   •* both

How long do they last?
   •*•  permanent
   •ป•  durable
   •*•  temporary

-------
           TYPES OF FINISHES
Sizing
      forms a film around yarns and
      individual fibers
      adds body
      starch & gelatins =ฃ> temporary
      used on cottons & rayon for hand &
      luster - lost in laundering
      resins =ฃ> durable
 Glazing
    •* Dolished surface finish
       temporary (starch) or durable (resin)

 Embossing
    -e- iurable if done on thermoplastic fibers
       ซr with resins

 Flockirg
       siort fibers glued to surface

-------
        FINISHES / TREATMENTS
 Permanent / Durable Press
    •*  resin treatment
    ••>  special care in laundering

 Stain Repellency
    •*  diminishes with laundering
       can be reapplied
Soil Release                     j
   •* diminishes with laundering    !
   •* difficult to reapply            !
                                 t
                                 i1
                                 i
Water Repellency
      renewable finish            j
      <*> inexpensive & easy to reapbly
      durable finish              /
      ^ wash according to care la(M only

-------
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
 Seam puckering
 Seam ravelling
 Edge fray
 Buttons & trim
 Multiple fabrics
    •* differential shrinkage
    •* color bleed

-------

-------

-------

-------
                        Module IV: Soils, Odors, Stains

Module Overview:

This module provides a basic review of exactly what are soils, odors, and stains. It helps
ensure that participants have a common understanding of issues relating to removal of
soils, odors, and stains from garments.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.

Module Highlights:

Topics:
Soils, odors and stains
Separating soils, odors and stains from fabrics

-------
Reasons for Cleaning
  1 Garment is soiled with dirt
  1 Garment has a stain
   Garment has objectionable odor
   Garment is wrinkled or creased
   Garment has lost its color or brightness
   Garment has lost its desired shape or finish
   Garment has been worn and customer wants it
   cleaned before wearing again

-------
Soil Origins
     Inorganic dust, dirt and particulates
     Inorganic dirt
     Organic oils
     Perspiration stains
     Food and drink stains
     Blood and urine
     Grease, tar or adhesive
     Skin cells

-------
Soil Removal
   Dry mechanical action                     ,

   Dry mechanical spinning

   Flushing with water, surfactant or solvent solution,
      or
   A combination of the above

-------
Odor Origins
    Perspiration and body oil




    Organic contaminants
    Bacteria or mites
    Smoke or soot participates




    Synthetic volatile organic compounds

-------
Odor Removal

    ซ Agitation, steaming or washing with water,
     surfactant or solvent

    • "Airing out"

    ป Disinfecting with bleach, peroxide or ozone

    • Masking the odor with another
     Heating to promote oxidation or
     A combination of the above

-------
Stains
     There are several different kinds of stains
     - some adhere to the surface of the fiber
     - some soak into the fibers
       + may "set" over time

     Color a fiber like a dye

     Stains can be removed by
     - flushing with water, surfactant or solvent
     — bleaching or dyeing
     - a combination of the above

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Separation Technologies
   • Mechanical agitation
     Water
     Chemical additives
     Steaming
     Heating
     Drying

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Chemical Agents
     Detergents
     - Surfactant
      + surround or emulsify
      - both surfactants and fabrics have negative charges
        preventing dirt from being redeposited onto fabric

     - Made up of hydrophilic and hydrophobic segments
      + surfactants have affinity for both segments, orient at
        interface and reduce interfacial tension, resulting in
        removal of dirt

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Chemical Agents    continued

   • Soaps
     - made when fatty acids are reacted with alkali
     - soil = slightly acidic   soap = alkaline
     - results in breaking of bonds and removing soil
   ป Synthetic solvents
     - many are petroleum based

   • Bleaches and oxidizers
     - whitening, odor removal and organic stain removal
     - bleaching only disinfects
     - disinfection kills bacterial and mites

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Chemical Agents    continued
   • Digesters
    — biologically removing organic material
    - enzymes consume and digest organic soil

   ป Finishing agents
    — designed to restore body and handle
    - forms a film around surface of fiber
      * dissipates the build up of static
      * protects the fiber
      * gives body back to the fiber
      * decreases wrinkling

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                    Module V: Garment Cleaning Methods

Module Overview:

This module addresses current methods in garment cleaning.  It provides participants with
an overview of a variety of approaches to clean garments. This module also compares the
two most available methods, wet and dry cleaning.


Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.
Review activity in student manual.

Module Highlights:

Activity:

This activity should take place at the end of the module and will lead directly into the
next module.

The answers to the question are:
  ปtime
  ฎ moisture
  • temperature
  ฎ agitiation
  • chemicals (ie. detergents, etc.)

Topics:
Current and alternative garment cleaning methods
A comparison of dry cleaning and wet cleaning

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GARMENT CLEANING
     METHODS

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Garment Cleaning Methods
    • Conventional dry cleaning
     Carbon dioxide
     Ozone
     Ultrasonics
     Rynex
     Wet cleaning

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Conventional Dry Cleaning
 4 generations of machines
 - transfer
 - dry to dry
 - control technology
 - control technology with air recycling

 Improvements in technology resulted in
 - increased solvent mileage
 — decrease in the amount of human exposure

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Cleaning With Carbon Dioxide
   Low human toxicity
   Ease of recyclability
   Low cost
   No ozone depletion
   Non-corrosive
   Non-flammable
   Non-polluting to ground water or soil
   Availability

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Carbon Dioxide

ป Supercritical
  - Artificially increase temp, and pressure
  - Temperature = 88 T Pressure =1071 psi
  — Grease and oils ate solubilized
  — Separate dissolved materials by reducing pressure
  - Commonly used for metal parts cleaning
  - More research need for garment cleaning
ซ Liquid
  - No surface tension and surfactants enhance cleaning abilities
  - Early research done by aerospace industry
  - Lower temperature and pressure than supercritical
  - Research is on-going

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Ozone Cleaning System
  Ozone acts a oxidizing agent
  - disinfects
  - deodorizes
  - bleaches

  Ozone combined with detergents
  - cleans
  - disinfects
  - deodorizes

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Ozone Cleaning Process
    Garment remains on hanger

    Results in reduced labor (cleaning and finishing)

    Researchers report
    - no shrinkage
    - deformation
    - wrinkling
    - no removing ornamental buttons

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Ultrasonic Cleaning
     Cooperatively funded by U.S. DOE and Garment
     Care

     Mechanics of process
     - ultrasonic waves directed at fabric through soap/water
     — denser contamination particles are excited and dislodged
     - needs careful monitoring
     - research is ongoing

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Rynex
   ' Made from plant material - waste is non-hazardous
   | Can be used in perc machines with minor
   modifications
   127 modifications
   Testing done on Grace and Multimatic machines for
   compatibility
   Does not corrupt seals and gaskets
   In a five minute wash cycle with 20 water and
   solvent soluble stains
   — perc removed 5
   - Rynex removed 20

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                    Module VI: Overview of Wet Cleaning

Module Overview:

This module provides participants with a "walk through" of a wet cleaning facility. The
module also discusses a wet cleaning perspective on common cleaning practices such as
stain removal.

Instructor Preparation:

This module will prepare participants for the hands-on (on-site) portion of the workshop.
Discuss each of the five stations (stain removal, sorting, wet clean machine, drying and
finishing) making notations on flip chart paper of participant questions that will be
answered during the hands-on session. This is a technique that is often used in training
workshops and is called the "parking lot" or "bicycle rack". The purposes for listing the
participant questions are: 1. participants get to see then- questions written before the entire
class thus validating the questions, 2.  the list serves as a reminder for the instructor that
there is a question or are questions that need to be answered, 3. reviewing and answering
the questions (and checking them off as they are addressed) brings closure to the class,
ensuring that all students' questions are answered (their needs are met.)

Review overheads and student manual.

Module Highlights:

Topics:
Front counter
Garment measuring
Sorting
Testing for colorfastness
Stain removal
Cleaning with water
Drying
Finishing

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OVERVIEW OF
WET CLEANING

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OVERVIEW OF WET CLEANING




• Many skills are transferrable




• Key factors




  - well trained and skilled personnel



  - following manufacturers directions



  - quality detergents



  - appropriate finishing techniques

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Wet Cleaning Process
   The wet cleaning process utilizes

   - wet cleaning machine
   - detergents
   - finishers
   - stain removal agents
   — specialized dryer
   - process enhanced with quality finishing equipment

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Wet Cleaning Technology
 Environmentally friendly method

 Gentle mechanical action of hand washing with
 convenience of laundry

 Dependent upon knowledge of fiber science

 Requires a larger amount of observation and skill

 Success is dependent upon
 - quality detergents
 - proper training
 - commitment to process

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FRONT COUNTER
The forgotten station

- only person in shop to interact with customers
— turnover rate may decrease if well trained and challenged

Need to examine garments for...

— sun damage
— tears
— missing adornments
— stains
— seams and hems in need of repair

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GARMENT MEASURING
 Use inside seams on legs and sleeves

 Measure wearer's right side

 Close the waist and double measurement

 Don't include waistbands on pants or cuffs of shirts
 in measurements

 Note any additional measurements taken

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 TESTING FOR
 COLORFASTNESS
Most wet cleaning detergents are slightly acidic

Testing done with 1:4 detergent/water mixture

- white cloth moistened w/solution, gently rub garment

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STAIN REMOVAL PROCESS
 Proper combination of

 - agitation
 - stain removal agents
 — time

 70% water based -  30% grease based

 - water based may go directly into machine
 - grease based must be dealt with at the stain removal board

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FACTORS CRITICAL FOR
STAIN REMOVAL
 Thorough inspection

 Full spectrum fluorescent lighting

 1:4 detergent/water mixture for ground in dirt

 Perform stain removal before sorting

 Process silks immediately after stain removal

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SORTING

ป Sorting procedures are defined by soap/machine
  manufacturers. Programs may include
  — Outergarments
  - Delicates
  - Wools
• Cycles may be further split into lights and darks
ป When mixing loads default to gentler cycle

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Sorting
      Sort loads according to machine/detergent
            manufacturers directions

      Sort complete full loads and half loads

      Ties should be pinned inside pant leg

      Put fine knit sweaters in knit bag

      Suit pieces should be sorted into same load

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WET CLEAN MACHINE

• Microprocessor controlled drum
  - precise control which mimmics hand washing
ป Cycles control
  - drum rotation as low as 5 RPM's
  - timing
  '— temperature
  - addition of chemicals
  - water level
  - extraction
ซ Water temperature critical
  - too warm may cause dimensional change
  — too cold may not clean properly

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Wet Clean Machine

• Match machine program to load size and type
• Take clothes out upon completion of cycle
ป Switch machine to wet clean cycle
• Clean drum after waterproofing/fire retard cycle
ป Cycle downs in a quick fill/extract cycle to completely wet down
• Use only EPA approved soaps and detergents
ซ Wet clean suit pieces  in same load
• If very soft water is encountered: decrease detergent and increase
  sizing to protect fabric
• Watch for cracks in through the door tubing - may cause
  problems
• Process jackets in p.m. so you have room to hang overnight
• If using machine for both laundry & wet cleaning rinse well
  between cycles

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FACTORS CRITICAL FOR
WET CLEANING

• Water temperature critical
  - too warm may cause dimensional change
  — too cold may not clean properly
  — 80 degrees F is commonly recommended
• Water hardness/softness
  - extremely soft water may warrant decreasing additive
   amounts
  - most detergents will function in hard water

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DETERGENTS

• Three major functions
  - protect the fiber against damage
  — remove the dirt
  - prevent redeposition of suspended dirt
• Work best in about 80 degree F water
  — warm water increases surface activity of chemicals
  - surface activity enables detergents to decrease interfacial
   tensions between fabric, soil and solvent
  - decreased interfacial tensions results in soil removal
• Strong anti-deposition properties
• Slightly acid pH decreased color loss

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Dryer
   Use large enough dryer for adequate tumbling
   Utilize shortest cycle possible to prevent relaxation
   damage
   Take clothes out immediately after processing
   Do not dry clothes to < 10% humidity
   Air dry garments when necessary
   Very fine and loose weave sweaters should be dried
   flat
   Molded black plastic form hangers work best

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Three types of dryers available
      •, ••   ซ/ A           */      "   •• •
  Home dryers

  — time and temperature controlled

  Wet cleaning dryers
   two types

   •* eornpares humidity of exhaust air with ambieht air

   •* huniidity sensors in drum measure humidity 400
     times/sec6nd

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DRYING

• Dryer should be twice the wet cleaning capacity of
  wet clean machine
  - allows for even circulation of heated air
• Using an undersized dryer may result in
  -shrinkage (most occurs at humidity < 10%)
  - deformation
  — excess wrinkling
• Drying should be done at high temp, for brief
  periods of time
• Monitor temperature and humidity

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Finishing
  Finish garments only when moisture content has
  reached equilibrium with ambient air
  Finishing time will be decreased if stretching
  equipment utilized
  Conditioners (starches) will reduce finishing time
  on some garments
  Brush suedes with copper wire brush toward nap to
  bring back nap
  Heavy wool coat should be brushed w/dog brush to
  pickup pile
  Wipe velvet with your hand to get pile going in
  same direction

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                     Module VII: Hands-on Wet Cleaning

Module Overview:

This module is the heart and soul of the workshop. It give participants the opportunity to
do hands on wet cleaning, and to see the results of wet cleaning garments that have been
traditionally "dry clean only."

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.

Gather approximately 250 pounds of garments to be processed hi the wet clean machine,
include mostly "Dry Clean Only", delicates and garments with bead work or trim for
demonstration.  Participants will be most interested in seeing rayons, silks, and wools
processed.

Hang signs at each station in the facility where the hands-on training will take place. The
signs should include: Stain Removal, Sorting, Wet Clean Machine, Dryer and Finishing.
See "Logistics" for site selection and preparation. Breaks and lunch should be taken at
appropriate times.

Module Highlights:

Topics:
Sorting
Stain removal
Wet cleaning
Drying
Finishing

Participants should be instructed how to sort garments for the machine they will be using.
The group should then be allowed to sort all of the garments to be processed. The
instructor will inspect the sorted piles for garments that don't belong.  The instructor
should then explain why he/she might sort the particular garment differently, if
appropriate.

Participants will then be split up into three groups of five persons. The groups will be
assigned to three areas for 2 hours each; stain removal, wet clean machine/dryer and
finishing. This will allow participants adequate time at each station to participate and ask
questions.

The remaining time will be spent answering further questions and discussing what was
learned.

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                   Module VIII: Economics of Wet Cleaning

Module Overview:

This module discusses the economic "bottom line" of wet cleaning.  Included in this
module are tools for dry cleaners to use in analyzing costs of converting to a partial or
complete wet cleaning operation.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.


Module Highlights:

Activity:
The instructor should review the cost sheets with the participants. This is a good
opportunity to review, line by line, what each entry means. Participants should be
encouraged to offer estimates of their costs so some actual comparisons can be made.
Topics:
Understanding and finding costs
Converting from dry to wet
Identifying and comparing costs of dry vs. wet cleaning
Cost comparison worksheets

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UNDERSTANDING AND
FINDING COSTS
 Capital Costs
 Operating Costs
 Intangible Costs

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CAPITAL COSTS
 New Equipment
 New Buildings

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 Why Are Costs Neglected?
Perception that

  ...some costs are not relevant
  ...some costs are not significant enough to quantify
  ...some costs are too difficult to quantify

Environmental costs are often

  ...hidden
  ...assigned to overhead accounts

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Which  Costs Are Typically
Neglected?
 Less Likely To Be
 Neglected
   * One-Time Investment
    Costs
   *• Direct Costs
   •* Certain Costs
   *• Short-Term Costs
   >• Easily Quantifiable
    Costs
More Likely To Be
Neglected
- Annual, Recurring Costs
- Indirect, Hidden Costs
- Uncertain, Probabilistic
 Costs
- Long-Term Costs
- Difficult-To-Quantify
 Costs

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Examples of Costs/Savings
Typically Neglected
 Indirect Hidden
 - One-Time Investment Costs
    Start-up/training
    Permitting
 — Annual, Recurring Costs
    Regulatory Compliance
    Green Market Revenues
    Liability
Difficult-To-Quantify
    Long Term

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Examples of Costs/Savings
Typically Included
 Direct, Certain Easily Quantifiable


 - One-Time Investment Costs

   > Purchased Equipment

   *• Construction/Installation

 - Annual, Recurring Costs

   •* Raw Materials

   * Operating Labor

   * Waste Hauling and Disposal

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Comprehensive Cost/Savings
Inventory
One valuable tool for ensuring inclusion of all


relevant and significant costs and savings is to


start project analysis with a comprehensive

cost/savings list, or inventory.

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Activity V
  Tasks




  - Identify components of the operation




  - List possible costs foreach component




   * use handout

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               Module IX: Available Wet Cleaning Equipment

Module Overview:

This module discusses the types of equipment available for wet cleaning. Charts are
included that compare different types of wet clean and drying equipment.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.

Module Highlights:

Topics:
Wet cleaning machines
Dryers
Wet cleaning equipment features and specifications

Discuss each of the entries on the tables on pages 98-100 of the Garment Wet Cleaning
Manual. Be sure to remain generic in your description of standard and optional features.
Using the equipment at the hands-on site in the facility, demonstrate the features which
make that brand unique.

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EQUIPMENT OPTIONS
• Max. load capacity
 Extract G force
 DrumRPMs
 Frequency controlled motor
 Programmable microprocessor
 Number of programs

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EQUIPMENT OPTIONS  cent
Average wash cycle

Steam heat (direct or indirect)

Electric heat

No. of detergent/chemical dispensers

Auto spray thru door (waterproofing and flame
retardant)

Low level/empty tank alarm

automatic shut-off

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EQUIPMENT OPTIONS cont.
   No. of recycling tanks for water/chemicals




   Pump/filter recirculation system




   Wet cleaning detergents/chemicals recommended

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                   Module X: Facility Function and Design

Module Overview:

This module provides basic information on the design of a wet cleaning facility,
especially as it relates to the functions of a wet cleaning operation.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.

Module Highlights:

Topics:
Adapting the staff to wet cleaning procedures
Designing a functional floor plan

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FACILITY FUNCTION
   AND DESIGN

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Facility Function

  • When converting or retraining you need staff with
    an open mind

  • Commitment to process is crucial

  • Counter personnel
    - the "forgotten station"
    - critical to success of business
    - need to be well trained, motivated and pleasant

  ซ Many skills are transferable with minor
    modifications

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Floor Plan Design

ซ Efficient design is critical
  - labor costs affected

• Streamline the flow of garments

• Think about efficiency when replacing equipment

• Work flow should be "U" or "O" shaped

• Additional hanging space required
  - ?drying cabinet?

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                   Module XI: Labeling Liability/Wrap-up

Module Overview:

This module discusses the issue of labeling liability as it pertains to garment wet cleaning.

Instructor Preparation:

Review overheads and student manual.

Module Highlights:

Topics:
Proposed changes in care labeling
The current situation
Wrap-up

The wrap-up component of this module should focus on some of the organizations (see
overheads) that participants should consider valuable resources.

Evaluations (see 1-13) should be handed out for participants to complete, and collected
before participants leave.

Certificates, if available should be distributed.

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What's Next for Wet Cleaning?


 ป Center for Neighborhood Technology

  - results from The Greener Cleaner study

  - contact CNT at
    ป wet cleaning hotline (312)278-4800, ext. 299
   .-fax (312)278-3840

    - download a copy
     http://www.pond.com/~hhoniing/wetclean/gcrep/gcrepO.html

    * e-mail sylvia@cnt.org

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What's Next?   cont.

• Environment Canada
  - Green Clean Trial
    *• six month study to research and evaluate customer
     acceptance
    + two cleaners funded to wet clean only
  — Green Clean Extension
    + Depot taken over by private operator
    " 3 more cleaners funded & giver option to dry clean
  - Green Clean Facility
    * 100% wet clean conversion
    * any dry cleaning sent off-site

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What's Next?   cont.

ป University of California at Los Angeles
  - Cleaner By Nature
   *• plant in LA
   * drop shop in Santa Monica
• Project parallels the demonstration at The Greener
  Cleaner

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THE FABRICARE LIST

• e-mail list service
• send e-mail to Dave Spensley at
  cleanlist@uncled.com
• include in your message
  — your name
  — company name
  - industry affiliation
  - street address
  — city
  - e-mail address where you want messages sent
• interesting Web addresses
  -http://www.cnt.org/sus_man/wet_cln.html
  - http://members.aol.com/nadagroup
  - http://www/pond.com/~hhorning
  -http://www.epa.gov/docs/enviro/html/ejf_home.html/

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