United States
                    Environmental Protection
                    Agency
Industrial Environmental Research
Laboratory
Research Triangle Park NC 27711
                    Research and Development
EPA-600/S2-83-068  Nov. 1983
&EPA         Project  Summary
                    An  Investigation of Selected  Dye
                    Carriers   Used   in   Commercial
                    Dyeing of  Hydrophobic  Fibers
                    Kwan-nan Yeh and B.F. Smith
                      This project was initiated to investi-
                    gate potential toxicities of dyebath
                    discharges from atmospheric dyeing of
                    100% polyester  fabric with  three
                    commercial dye carriers: trichloroben-
                    zene (TCB), biphenyl (BP), and o-phenyl
                    phenol (OPP). First, criteria were
                    established to rank the priority of all
                    commercial dye carriers,  based on
                    known toxicities, volumes of consump-
                    tion, etc. Commercial dyeing of polyester
                    fiber/fabric  was simulated in  the
                    laboratory, using a commercial disperse
                    dye, other dyebath additives, and the
                    selected dye carriers.
                      Biological testing and chemical an-
                    alyses were carried out on the discharges
                    of these dyebath  systems.  Bioassays
                    included 1) Ames Salmonella/microsome
                    mutagenesis assay,  2) acute in-vivo
                    mouse quanta! assay and, 3) aquatic
                    ecological assay with Daphnia magna.
                    Analytical procedures were established
                    for  both qualitative identification and
                    quantitative determination of key dye-
                    bath components.
                      In-depth studies were also carried out
                    on two dyebath systems (TCB and BP) to
                    identify species responsible for the
                    observed toxicity and to  delineate
                    possible chemical and/or biological
                    interactions  between the  dyebath
                    components.
                      The TCB system was also investigated
                    to demonstrate that the toxicity of
                    these dyebath discharges can be reduced
                    significantly by increasing dyeing
                    efficiency. The dyeing process was
                    carefully evaluated to determine the
                    dye and carrier contents necessary to
                    achieve maximum dyebath efficiency.
                      This Project Summary was developed
                    by EPA's Industrial Environmental
Research Laboratory, Research Traingle
Park. NC, to announce key findings of
the research project that is fully docu-
mented in a separate report of the same
title  (see Project Report ordering
information at back).

Introduction
  The Clean Water Act of 1977 identified
65 toxic compounds and classes of toxic
compounds which are subject to effluent
limitations and expanded the spectrum of
pollutant parameters to receive attention
in point  source discharges to include
potentially toxic pollutants. Within these
65 compounds  and classes, specific
elements or  compounds have been
identified as priority pollutants. Included
in this priority list of 129 compounds are
13 metals, 114 organic compounds,
cyanide, and asbestos.
  Wastewater guidelines for the textile
industry were developed in 1977, based
on studies sponsored jointly by EPA and
the industry. The water use and waste-
water discharge  statistics for the textile
industry were  reported in detail by
Sverdrup and Parcel and Associates, Inc.
in a study conducted for EPA. This study
indicates that the  dyeing step in the
finishing of woven and knitted fabrics and
in carpet finishing is responsible for most
of the waste volume  and  contributes
substantially to  the waste load in the
finishing  process.  Color is an obvious
adverse characteristic of the wastewater,
along with high levels of dissolved solids.
Carriers used in dyeing of polyester (and
other hydrophobic fibers) contribute
significantly to the biochemical oxygen
demand (BOD). Carriers which are used
to accelerate the dyeing of hydrophobic
fibers with disperse dyes (and sometimes

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other classes of dyes)  are of particular
concern in the dyeing waste stream since
some of them appear as specific chemicals
on EPA's Priority Pollutant List.
  The present study has focused on the
laboratory investigation of the toxicity of
major dye carriers currently used in the
commercial  dyeing  of  polyester fiber/
fabric. The study includes development of
analytical techniques  and systematic
biological evaluation, necessary to identify
and quantify toxic  species in these
systems. The study was also intended to
provide information which can be used to
eliminate or to reduce toxic substances in
textile industry waste discharges.
  The systematic approach taken to carry
out the above objectives included:
  1. Establishing priority ranking of
     current commercial dye carriers for
     polyester  fiber/fabric, based on
     available data on current consump-
     tion and toxicity of these chemicals.
  2. Biological  and chemical  screening
     of the three top-ranked carrier
     systems, according to the  order of
     the priority established.
  3. In-depth biological  and chemical
     studies of the first two toxic systems
     identified  in the  above  screening
     studies, with the  objectives of
     identifying the species responsible
     for the observed toxicity and deline-
     ating possible interaction (synergistic
     or antagonistic) between species.
  4. Investigating means of eliminating
     or reducing toxicity of these systems,
     by varying dyebath contents, dyebath
     conditions, and/or dyeing procedures.
  Three  commercial dye carriers, tri-
cholorobenzene (TCB), biphenyl (BP), and
o-phenyl phenol  (OPP), were selected
based on the priority ranking established.
A commercial dye, disperse Yellow-23(Y-
23), and other dyebath additives were
used. A typical  commercial atmospheric
dyeing  process was simulated in the
laboratory to carry out  all dyeing opera-
tions. Biological evaluations and chemical
analyses were carried out on the spentbath
liquor from  each screening  dyebath.
Bioassays included 1) Ames Salmonella/
microsome mutagenesis assay,  2) acute
in-vivo mouse quanta!  assay  and, 3)
aquatic ecological assay with  Daphnia
magna.
  Various analytical techniques were
used for qualitative  and  quantitative
analyses of  key dyebath  components in
the spentbaths and on dyed fabrics. An
analytical procedure using a  computer-
assisted infrared  (IR) spectrophotometer
was established for qualitative identification
of key dyebath components.  Analytical
procedures employing a high-performance
liquid chromatography  (HPLC) and an
ultraviolet/visible  spectrophotometer
(UV/VIS) were also established for
quantitative analyses of carriers and dye.
  In-depth studies of two carrier systems
(TCB and BP) were carried out to identify
the dyebath component(s) responsible for
the observed toxicities. The potential of
reducing the toxicity of these dyebath
systems by varying dyeing conditions and
initial dyebath compositions was also
investigated.

Conclusions
  Toxicity screening of spentbath samples
from laboratory-simulated atmospheric
dyeing of 100% polyester fabric  with  a
commercial disperse dye (Yellow-23) and
commercial  dye carriers (TCB, BP, and
OPP)  indicated that  all three  carrier
systems are extremely toxic to Daphnia
magna assay.  Median effective concen-
trations,  ECso, for the 48-hr  test were
25.5, 9.28, and 0.91 %, respectively, for the
TCB,  BP and OPP carrier  systems.
However, results of Ames Salmonella/
microsome mutagenesis assay and acute
in-vivo mouse quanta! assay were
negative for all three  carrier systems.
Results  of both bioassays and analyzed
concentrations of dye and carriers for all
three systems  screened are  shown in
Table 1.
  In-depth studies, carried out on the TCB
and  BP  carrier systems, showed that
toxicity  in these two systems was due
mainly to the dye (Yellow 23) and the

Table 1.    Summary of Screening Studies
carrier (TCB  or  BP); no  other  dyebath
additives were found to have any signifi-  (
cant toxicity. Furthermore, the toxicity
observed in these systems was found to
be the additive effect of the dye and the
carrier. The OPP system (the most toxic to
Daphnia magna) was not studied in depth
because of project budgetary constraints.
  A  material balance made around the
dyeing process showed that, in all three
systems (TCB, BP, and OPP), a significant
amount (more than 50%) of the original
carrier content in the dyebath was lost,
through volatilization, during dyeing. This
may have an adverse impact on the air
environment.
  Studies  varying  dyeing time  and
original  carrier  content indicate  that
dyeing conditions  can  be optimized to
minimize the amount of residual dye and
carrier in the wastewater. This is  one
potential  technique for reducing  the
toxicity of these wastewaters.
  The present study has  developed  and
established a basis for analytical tech-
niques which can be applied to relatively
simple textile waste systems, such as
dyebath discharges.  It has also demon-
strated that  the systematic approach of
biological and chemical screening and in-
depth investigation effectively identifies
toxic species and  evaluates  overall
toxicity  of these systems. However, A
successful applications of the techniques "
and  the  approach to a  more complex
textile  waste discharge  remains to be
demonstrated.

Spentbath Contents:
Dye (Yellow-23), mg/l
Carrier, mg/l
Bioassay Results:
Ames (w/ and w/o liver
microsomal enzyme)
Mouse Quanta/ Assay
Daphnia magna Assay
24 hr "
48 hr"
TCB System

5.32
63.0(1,2,4, TCB)


Negative
Nontoxic

31.2(24.3-38.1)
25.5(19.2-32.7)
BP System

5.34
41.9(BP)


Negative
Nontoxic

20.45(8.16-51.25)
9.28(7.74-10.83)
OPP System

2.98
a


Negative
Nontoxic

0.91(0.70-1.12)
0.91(0.65-1.18)
"Not analyzed.
^Values in parentheses are 95% confidence intervals.

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     K wan-nan Yeh and B. F. Smith are with the University of Maryland, College Park.
       MD 20742.
     Robert C. Hendriks is the EPA Project Officer (see below).
     The complete report, entitled "An Investigation of Selected Dye Carriers Used in
       Commercial Dyeing of Hydrophobic Fibers," (Order No. PB 83-247 569; Cost:
       $13.00, subject to change) will be available only from:
             National Technical Information Service
             5285 Port Royal Road
             Springfield, VA 22161
             Telephone: 703-487-4650
     The EPA Project Officer can be contacted at:
             Industrial Environmental Research Laboratory
             U.S. Environmental  Protection Agency
             Research Triangle Park, NC 27711
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