A GARDENER 1 GUIDE
TO A HEALTHIER
ENVIRONMENT
WHAT YOU CAN DO
TO PREVENT POLLUTION
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DO YOU THINK THAT YOU'RE A FRIEND TO THE
ENVIRONMENT?
PLEASE READ ON...YOU MAY BE SURPRISED.
First some facts. Did you know?
• We waste millions of gallons of water
each year through inefficient watering
practices (e.g., running a hose for an hour
uses up 375 gallons of water). Runoff
from our gardens carries fertilizers,
pesticides, soil and other pollutants into
our streams, lakes and bays degrading
water quality and harming aquatic life.
• Our use of landscape equipment with two-cycle gasoline-
powered engines is a significant contributor to air pollution. For
example, gas-powered garden tools emit 5% of the nation's air
pollution and a gas-powered mower emits 11 times the air
pollution of a new car for each hour of operation. These
hydrocarbon emissions create ozone which in turn is very harmful
to trees and other vegetation.
• The average gardener uses pesticides at a rate 20 times that of
farmers. Pesticides are often applied at inappropriate times, such
as when insects are not vulnerable. While in the right situations
pesticides are invaluable, overuse and inappropriate use often kill
beneficial insects and other wildlife. Less than 10% of all insects
are harmful to plants. Pesticides have the potential to cause
serious human health problems when not handled properly nor
applied with extreme caution per directions.
• Our insatiable craving for new homes, larger lots and vast lawns
has been responsible for much of the loss of wildlife habitat and
prime farmland in the last 50 years. Plant and animal species are
becoming extinct at a greater rate than at any time in history.
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• Organic yard waste is a major contributor to the landfill crisis in
America. It accounts for 20% of municipal solid waste generated
each year. Grass clippings account for most of this waste.
• Noise pollution from landscape
equipment has seriously compromised the
serenity of our neighborhoods.
• Plants that we innocently introduce to
our gardens can seriously impact nearby
natural habitats. Plants like kudzu, water
hyacinth, loosestrife and crown vetch
either grow or self-propagate at such a rate that they outcompete
native vegetation, with the result being reduced habitat values and
loss of biodiversity.
These and other disturbing environmental problems are
caused by well-meaning backyard gardeners like you and me.
However, through education and attitudinal or procedural
changes, we can eliminate these harmful practices. The
following pages contain some environmentally-friendly
practices that should be considered and adopted wherever
feasible.
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN (OR THE PURCHASE OF
PLANT MATERIAL)
Most of you are already aware that
planning is the most important phase of
gardening. This goes for pollution
prevention as well. Here are a some tips
to keep in mind.
Plant appropriate species to meet your
needs and your specific site conditions
which can vary dramatically, even in the
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same backyard. Consider the ultimate size and shape desired
before looking at plants. Next assess your site conditions for soil
characteristics (pH level, moisture retentiveness, etc), sunlight and
rainfall. Once your requirements are established, research available
plants through reputable nurseries, garden clubs, agricultural
extension services, botanic gardens and libraries. Keep in mind
that many nurseries, particularly the large national and regional
chains, sell a wide variety of plant material, some of which may not
be hardy for your area. By selecting the proper plants, you are not
only on your way to having a healthier garden, but you will be
preventing pollution by conserving water and not having to prune,
fertilize nor apply pesticides as much.
Native species should be considered first
as they have proven to be hardy to the
area. Exotic plants, unless carefully
selected, can be high in maintenance or
biological nightmares that take over the
landscape. Some overlooked native plants
to consider in the Middle Atlantic area
include the sugar maple, white oak, swamp oak, persimmon,
sassafras, witchhazel, mapleleaf viburnum, shagbark hickory and
native azaleas and rhododendrons. Additional plants to avoid
include: Norway maple, ailanthus (tree of heaven), mulberry,
Japanese honeysuckle, and oriental bittersweet.
Plant trees and evergreens to shade buildings and paved areas.
They can keep buildings cooler in summer and warmer in winter by
providing shade and windbreaks. Deciduous trees should be
planted on the south and west sides of buildings and coniferous
trees are ideal on the side of the prevailing winter winds (usually
north or northwest). Effective plantings in this manner can reduce
energy needs for heating and cooling by as much as 30%. By
shading paved surfaces such as driveways and parking areas with
trees, you can reduce summer heat buildup which can be stressful
to nearby plantings.
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Keep lawn areas to a minimum as they are maintenance intensive,
requiring frequent mowing, watering, and application of fertilizers,
herbicides, and pesticides. Instead, consider native groundcovers
or a mixture of trees and shrubs in a natural arrangement (see
below).
Plant a variety of species rather than a monoculture.
Monocultures, in addition to being a fairly sterile environment, are
very susceptible to infestations of harmful insects and rapid spread
of disease. Weather stress can also be catastrophic to this type of
garden.
Consider creating a natural garden to provide additional habitat
value and decrease maintenance. In a balanced landscape,
everything is in check, including diseases and pests. All green
plants emit oxygen which humans and animals need to breathe.
The more biomass (volume of green vegetation) the more oxygen
produced. Thus, a richly luxuriant garden, especially a woodland,
has much better air quality than a lawn. When we take into
account the harmful impacts from mowers and blowers and runoff
of fertilizers and pesticides, lawns can even be harmful to the
environment.
Include water in the
landscape for
increase d
biodiversity and
landscape balance.
In addition to being a landscape focal point, ponds provide
valuable habitat and can serve as stormwater retention basins
(however, don't locate them in wetlands which are federally
protected). For child safety and maximum wetland wildlife value,
the pond periphery should be gently sloping shallow water (ideal
for many wetland plants); the center should be 3 - 4 feet deep to
provide refuge for fish from cats, raccoons and winter freezing.
Fish, frogs and snails will help keep insect populations under
control and reduce algae buildup.
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MAINTENANCE
I. Mulching and Composting
Rather than discarding plant material, create or enlarge your
compost pile.
For lawns, use a composting mower to eliminate the need to
dispose of excess grass clippings and provide a natural source of
nutrients to reduce fertilizer needs.
Excess clippings, leaves and pruned branches make excellent
compost ingredients that can later be applied as a soil additive or
mulch for vegetable and flower gardens and ornamentals. Mulches
also reduce the need to weed and water, cut down soil erosion, and
moderate soil temperature.
In a true natural garden, it's beneficial to allow most branches and
leaves to remain; they'll decay and provide habitat and nutrients.
Chipped bark and branches can make an excellent natural path
through your garden.
II. Tools/Equipment
Use hand tools wherever practicable. Power —__
tools are noisy and their energy demands ^^
and emissions are polluting. Electric tools
are quieter, but electricity generation —\
(particularly the mining and burning of coal)
causes significant air and water pollution.
Push mowers, brooms and hand rakes are
not only non-polluting, but they provide
healthy exercise to the user and are less
dangerous. When power equipment is necessary, take extra
precautions to avoid fuel spills (use leakless nozzles), maintain
equipment properly, use protective clothing, and show
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consideration regarding the noise generated. Buy equipment that
is the quietest, cleanest burning and most fuel efficient.
III. Watering
Conserving water in the garden starts with selecting appropriate
plants for your climatic, soil, and light conditions. Next, cluster
plants with similar moisture requirements and apply mulch or, in
the natural garden, allow leaves and other organics to naturally
decompose. Watering should then only be necessary after planting
and during severe droughts.
Drip irrigation is one of the most efficient
forms of irrigation. It is especially valuable
on slopes where runoff would be high.
When watering, apply the necessary amount
of water at the appropriate time. Rain
gauges and soil moisture probes can help
you judge the need. Early morning
applications of no more than an inch of
water per week is preferable to numerous
light waterings which only wet the surface
and encourage shallow, vulnerable root
growth.
Timers, underground sprinklers and other devices that control
application rates and amounts are also recommended. Finally,
rainwater can be collected from roofs and other surfaces and gray
water from showers and sinks for watering lawns and gardens.
IV. Pesticides
Research your problems by means of reference books, nurseries,
garden club, agricultural extension services and/or botanic gardens
before buying pesticides. Identify causes so that most appropriate
action can be taken at most effective time. Examine the life cycles
of harmful insects so that you can take action when they're most
vulnerable.
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Limit your use of chemical pesticides. First, consider integrated
pest management (IPM) practices. In a balanced, natural garden
most diseases and harmful insects are kept
in check and rarely pose a serious problem.
Encourage natural pest predators to inhabit
your garden; these include birds, ladybugs,
lacewings, toads, preying mantis and, yes,
snakes. A variety of flowering plants is
essential to attracting many beneficial
insects such as butterflies and bees. Remove
pest eggs, larvae and cocoons by hand.
Good sanitation in the fall means fewer
pests in the spring.
Where use of pesticides is necessary, look for less toxic products
such as biological agents (e.g., Bacillus thuringiensis or B.t.),
horticultural superior oil sprays, insecticidal soaps and soap
solutions (mix 2.5 T liquid soap with 215 T cooking oil and 1
gallon water), boric acid, dehydrating dusts (diatomaceous earth
and silica gel) and insect growth regulators which interrupt the
pests' reproductive cycles. For more severe infestations, use
pyrethrin-based insecticides.
Follow directions carefully, use adequate protective gear and apply
only away from water bodies, when winds are calm and rain not
forecasted.
Buy pesticides only in smallest quantity necessary and store
carefully in labeled, air-tight containers. Use proper gear and
extreme caution when mixing and applying. Don't wash down
spills, but rather, blot with absorbent material and dispose of in a
strong plastic bag. Spilled or excess pesticides should be disposed
of only at hazardous waste drop-off locations, never in household
trash or down drains, sewers.
When buying fertilizer, consider slow release products (e.g., fish
emulsion) as they minimize excess nitrogen runoff.
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Finally, remember that even when used sparingly and cautiously,
pesticides can and do get into nature's food chain and while they
may not be harmful to your plants, they may harm wildlife and
impair our health. Learn to accept minor damage from disease
and insects as being part of the natural cycle.
THE CUMULATIVE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF
EACH OF OUR GARDENING PRACTICES IS QUITE
SIGNIFICANT. PLEASE DO YOUR PART TO BE MORE
ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY, THEN GO A STEP
FURTHER AND ENCOURAGE YOUR FRIENDS AND
NEIGHBORS TO DO THE SAME. IT WILL TAKE ALL OF
US WORKING TOGETHER TO MAKE THIS A CLEANER,
HEALTHIER ENVIRONMENT.
Please practice pollution prevention by sharing this
brochure with others when you are finished with it.
Thank you.
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POLLUTION PREVENTION
HIERARCHY
PREVENTION
SOURCE REDUCTION
RECYCUN(
TREATMENT
Everyone's Job - Every Day
Please, practice pollution prevention —
pass this along to a friend when finished
Printed on recycled paper
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