B951
C574
987
vEPA
United States
Environmental Protection
Agency
Office of Pesticides
and Toxic Substances
Washington DC 20460
September 1987
Citizen's Guide
to Pesticides
730R87101
-------
Contents
Knowing Your Options 1
Tips for Safe Pesticide Use 4
Determining Correct Dosage 5
Storing and Disposing of Pesticides Correctly .... 7
How to Choose a Pest Control Company 8
How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides 9
"Someone's Been Poisoned, Help!" 13
-------
Knowing Your Options
THEY'RE THERE. Whether you see
them or not, you know they're
there—in your home, your vegetable
garden, your lawn, your fruit and shade
trees, your flowers, and on your pets.
They are pests—insects, weeds, fungi,
rodents, and others.
American households and their
surrounding grounds are frequent hosts
to common structural pests (termites,
cockroaches, fleas, rodents), as well as a
wide array of pests that are usually
associated with agriculture. Because
pests are all around—sometimes
creating a nuisance but sometimes
causing severe financial
loss—consumers have turned
increasingly to pesticides to control
them. Just as "pests" can be anything
from cockroaches in your kitchen to
algae in your swimming pool, pesticides
include insecticides, herbicides,
fungicides, rodenticides, disinfectants,
and plant growth regulators—anything
that kills or otherwise controls a pest of
any kind.
Federal Registration of
Pesticides
The Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) "registers" (licenses)
thousands of pesticide products for
use in and around homes. No
pesticide may legaDy be sold or used
in the United States unless it bears
an EPA-approved label and shows an
EPA registration number. The
Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and
Rodenticide Act (FIFRA), which
governs the registration of pesticides,
prohibits the use of any pesticide
product for any purpose that is not
stated on its label.
The first and most important step
in pest control is to identify the pest.
Some pests, or signs of them, are
unmistakable. Others are not. For
example, some plant "diseases" are
really indications of insufficient soil
nutrients.
Three information sources are
particularly helpful in identifying
pests and appropriate pest control
methods: reference books (such as
insect field guides or gardening
books), county agricultural extension
agents, and pesticide dealers.
The next step is to decide what level
of treatment you want. Is anyone in
the family or neighborhood
particularly sensitive to chemical
pesticides? Does your lawn really
need to be totally weed-free? Do you
need every fruit, vegetable, or flower
you grow, or could you replace
certain pest-prone species or varieties
with hardier substitutes? Will you
accept some blemished produce? In
other words, do you need to
eliminate all weeds and insects, or
can you tolerate some pests?
Remember that total pest
elimination is virtually impossible, and
trying to eradicate pests from your
premises will lead you to more
extensive, repeated chemical
treatments than pest control.
Remember, too, that to manage any
pest effectively, you must use each
method (or combination of methods)
correctly. You must also abide by all
pertinent local, state, and federal
regulations.
Prevention
There is another important question to
ask in making pest control decisions: is
there something on your premises that
needlessly invites pest infestations? The
answer to this question may lead you to
take some common-sense steps to
modify pest habitat:
• Remove water sources. All pests,
vertebrate or invertebrate, need water
for survival. Fix leaky plumbing and do
not let water accumulate anywhere in
your home. This means no water in
-------
trays under your houseplants overnight
if you have a cockroach infestation.
• Remove food sources (if the pest's
food is anything other than the plant or
animal you are trying to protect). For
example, this could mean storing your
food in sealed glass or plastic
containers, avoiding the habit of leaving
your pet's food out for extended periods
of time, and placing your refuse in
tightly covered, heavy-gauge garbage
cans.
• Remove or destroy pest shelter.
Caulk cracks and crevices to control
cockroaches; remove piles ol wood from
under or around your home in order to
avoid attracting termites; remove and
destroy diseased plants, tree prunings,
and fallen fruit that might harbor pests.
• Remove breeding sites. The presence
of pet manure attracts flies, litter
encourages rodents, and standing water
provides a perfect breeding place for
mosquitoes.
• Remove sources of preventable stress
to plants (flowers, trees, vegetable
plants, and turf). Plant at the optimum
time of year. Use mulch to reduce weed
competition and maintain even soil
temperature and moisture. Provide
adequate water.
• Use preventive cultural practices,
such as careful selection of
disease-resistant seed or plant varieties,
companion planting to exploit the
insect-repellent properties of certain
plants, strategic use of "trap" crops to
lure pests away from crops you wish to
protect, crop rotation and
diversification, and optimum use of
spacing. Make sure you have good
drainage and soil aeration.
Non-chemical Controls
If you practice preventive techniques
such as those mentioned above, you
will reduce your chances, or frequency,
of pest infestation. However, if you
already have an infestation, are there
any pest control alternatives besides
chemical pesticides?
The answer is an emphatic "yes."
One or a combination of several
non-chemical treatment alternatives may
be appropriate. Your best strategy
depends on the pest and the site where
the pest occurs.
Non-chemical alternatives include:
• Biological treatments, including
predators such as purple martins,
praying mantises, and lady bugs;
parasites; and pathogens such as
bacteria, viruses, and other
microorganisms like Bacillus thuringiensis
and milky spore disease.
• Mechanical treatments, including
cultivating to control weeds,
hand-picking weeds from turf and pests
from plants, trapping to control rodents
and some insects, and screening living
space to limit mosquito and fly access.
Non-chemical pest control methods
really work. They do have some
disadvantages: the results are not
immediate, and it requires some work
to make a home or garden less attractive
to pests. But the advantages of
non-chemical methods are many.
Compared to chemical pesticide
treatments, such methods are generally
effective for longer periods of time.
They do not create hardy,
pesticide-resistant pest populations.
And they can be used without
safeguards, because they pose virtually
no hazards to human health or the
environment.
Chemical Controls
If you decide that chemical treatment
can provide the best solution to your
pest problem, and you want to control
the pests yourself rather than turning
the problem over to a professional pest
control operator, then you have an
important decision to make: which
product to choose. Before making that
-------
decision, learn as much as you can
about a product's active ingredient—its
biologically active agent. Is it
"broad-spectrum" in its mode of action
(effective against a broad range of
pests), or is it "selective" (effective
against only a selected few pest
species). How rapidly does the active
ingredient break down once it is
introduced into the environment? Is it
suspected of causing chronic health
effects? Is it toxic to non-target wildlife
and housepets? Is it known, or
suspected, to leach through soil into
ground water?
Here again, your county agricultural
extension agents, reference books,
pesticide dealers, your state lead
pesticide agency, or your regional EPA
office may be able to provide assistance.
(Lists of state and EPA pesticide
contacts are provided at the end of this
booklet.)
When you have narrowed your
choices of active ingredients, you are
ready to select a pesticide product.
Choose the least toxic pesticide that can
achieve the results you desire. Read the
label. It lists active ingredients, the
target pests (for example, mites, flies,
Japanese beetle grubs, broad-leafed
weeds, algae, etc.), and the sites where
the product may be used (for example,
lawns, specific vegetable crops, roses,
swimming pools, etc.). Be sure the site
of your pest problem is included among
the sites listed on the label.
Pesticide active ingredients are
formulated in many ways. Choose the
formulation best suited to your site and
the pest you are trying to control. The
most common types of home use
pesticide formulations include:
• Solutions, which contain the active
ingredient and one or more additives,
and readily mix with water.
• Aerosols, which contain one or more
active ingredients and a solvent. They
are ready for immediate use as is.
• Dusts, which contain active
ingredients plus a very fine, dry, inert
carrier such as clay, talc, or volcanic
ash. Dusts are ready for immediate use
and are applied dry.
• Granulars, which are similar to dusts,
but with larger and heavier particles for
broadcast applications.
• Baits, which are active ingredients
mixed with food or other substances to
attract the pest.
• Wettable powders, which are dry,
finely ground formulations that
generally are mixed with water for
spray application. They also may be
used as dusts.
Depending on the type of formulation
you choose, you may need to dilute or
pre-mix the product. Prepare only the
amount that you need for each
application; don't prepare larger
amounts to store for possible future use.
(See "Determining Correct Dosage.")
Once you have identified the pest,
selected the right pesticide, and
determined proper dosage, you are
ready to use the product. Application
technique and timing are every bit as
important as the material used, so read
the label for directions. That advice—to
read the label—is repeated so often in
this guide that it may become tiresome.
But in fact, the advice cannot be
repeated often enough. Read the label
before you buy a product, and again
before you mix it, before you apply it,
before you store it, and before you
throw it away. The directions on a label
are there for a very good reason: to help
you achieve maximum benefits with
minimum risk. But these benefits
depend upon proper use of the
products.
Chemical pesticides also have their
disadvantages. They must be used very
carefully to achieve results while
protecting users and the environment.
The results are generally temporary,
and repeated treatments may be
required.
Therefore, to achieve best results
when you do use chemical pesticides,
use preventive and non-chemical
treatments along with them. This will
reduce the need for repeated
applications.
You should always evaluate your
pesticide use, comparing pre-treatment
and post-treatment conditions. You
-------
should weigh the benefits oi short-term
chemical pesticide control against the
benefits of long-term control using a
variety of techniques. Knowledge of a
range of pest control techniques gives
you the ability to pick and choose
among them. Pests, unfortunately, will
always be around us, and, if you know
about all pest control options, you will
know what to do the next time
THEY'RE THERE.
Tips for Safe Pesticide Use
Pesticides are not "safe." They are
produced specifically because they
are toxic to something. By heeding all
the following tips, you can reduce your
risks when you use pesticides.
• All pesticides legally marketed in the
U.S. must bear an EPA-approved label;
check the label to make sure it bears an
EPA registration number.
• Before using a pesticide, read the
entire label. Even if you have; used the
pesticide before, read the label
again—don't trust your memory. Use of
any pesticide in any way that is not in
accordance with tabel directions and
precautions is subject to civil and/or
criminal penalties.
• Do not use a "restricted use"
pesticide, unless you are a formally
trained, certified pesticide applicator.
These products are too dangerous to be
used without special training.
• Follow use directions carefully. Use
only the amount directed, at the time
and under the conditions specified, and
for the purpose listed. Don't think that
twice the dosage will do twice the job.
It won't. What's worse, you may harm
yourself, others, or whatever you are
trying to protect.
• Look for one of the following signal
words on the front of the label. It will
tell you how poisonous a pesticide is if
swallowed, inhaled, or absorbed
through skin.
"DANGER" means highly poisonous;
"WARNING" means moderately
poisonous;
"CAUTION" means least hazardous.
• Wear the items of protective clothing
the label recommends: for exeimple,
long sleeves or pants, impervious
gloves, rubber (not canvas or leather)
footwear, hat, goggles, and a respirator.
Personal protective clothing usually is
available at home building supply
stores.
• If you must mix or dilute the
pesticide, do so outdoors or in a
well-ventilated area. Mix only the
amount you need and use
recommended portions.
• Keep children and pets away from
areas where you mix or apply
pesticides.
• If a spill occurs, clean it up promptly.
Don't wash it away. Instead, sprinkle
with sawdust, vermiculite, or kitty litter;
sweep into a plastic garbage bag; and
dispose with the rest of your trash.
• Remove pets (including birds and
fish) and toys from the area to be
treated. Remove food, dishes, pots, and
pans before treating kitchen cabinets,
and don't let pesticides get on these
surfaces. Wait until shelves dry before
refilling them.
• Allow adequate ventilation when
applying pesticides indoors. Go away
from treated areas for at least the length
of time prescribed by the label. When
spraying outdoors, close the windows
of your home.
• Most surface sprays should be
applied only to limited areas; don't treat
entire floors, walls, or ceilings.
• Never place rodent or insect baits
where small children or pets can reach
them.
• When applying spray or dust
outdoors, cover fish ponds, and avoid
applying pesticides near wells. Always
avoid over-application when treating
-------
lawn, shrubs, or gardens. Runoff or
seepage from excess pesticide usage
may contaminate water supplies. Excess
spray may leave harmful residues on
home-grown produce.
• Keep herbicides away from non-target
plants. Avoid applying any pesticide to
blooming plants, especially if you see
honeybees or other pollinating insects
around them. Avoid birds' nests when
spraying trees.
• Never spray or dust outdoors on a
windy day.
• Never smoke while applying
pesticides. You could easily carry traces
of the pesticide from hand to mouth.
Also, some products are flammable.
• Never transfer pesticides to containers
not intended for them, such as empty
soft drink bottles. Keep pesticides in
containers that clearly and prominently
identify the contents. Properly refasten
all childproof caps.
• Shower and shampoo thoroughly
after using a pesticide product. Wash
the clothing that you wore when
applying the product separately from
the family laundry. To prevent tracking
chemicals inside, also rinse boots and
shoes.
• Before using a pesticide product,
know what to do in case of accidental
poisoning.
• In a sink or toilet, triple rinse tools or
equipment, including any containers or
utensils used to mix the chemicals, to
remove residues.
• Evaluate the results of your pesticide
use.
Determining Correct Dosage
So much information is packed onto
pesticide labels that there is usually
no room to include examples of each
dilution applicable to the multitude of
home-use situations. As a result, label
examples may inadvertently encourage
preparation of more pesticide than is
needed. The excess may contribute to
overuse, safety problems related to
storage and disposal, or simply wasted
costs of unused pesticide.
Determining the correct dosage for
different types of pesticides requires
some simple calculations. The following
information can help you to prepare the
minimum quantity of pesticide needed
for your immediate use situation.
For example, the product label says,
"For the control of aphids on tomatoes
mix 8 fluid ounces of pesticide into 1
gallon water and spray until foliage is
wet." Your experience has been that
your six tomato plants require only one
quart of pesticide to wet all the foliage.
Therefore, only 2 fluid ounces of the
pesticide should be mixed into 1 quart
of water. Why? Because a quart is one-
fourth of a gallon, and 2 fluid ounces
mixed into 1 quart makes the same
strength spray recommended by the
label, but in a quantity that can be used
up all at once.
Consumers can solve problems similar
to this one with careful arithmetic, good
measurements, and intelligent use of
the information provided here.
How to Measure
If you need to determine the size of a
square or rectangular area, such as a
lawn for herbicide application, measure
and multiply the length and width. For
example, an area 10 feet long by 8 feet
wide contains 80 square feet. Common
area measurements may involve square
yards (1 square yard = 9 square feet) or
square feet (1 square foot = 144 square
inches).
If you need to determine the volume
of a space such as a room, measure and
multiply the room's length, width, and
height. For example, a space 10 feet
-------
long, 8 feet wide, and 8 feet high
contains a volume of 640 cubic feet. You
would use this procedure, for instance,
for an aerosol release to control
cockroaches.
Most residential-use pesticides are
measured in terms of volume. Some
common equivalents are:
1 gallon (gal.) = 128 fluid ounces (fl.oz.)
= 4 quarts (qt.)
= 8 pints (pt.)
= 16 cups
1 qt. = 32 fl. oz.
= 2pt.
= 4 cups
1 pt. = 16 fl. oz.
= 2 cups
= 8 fl. oz.
= 1/2 fl. oz.
= 3 teaspoons
1 teaspoon = 1/6 fl. oz.
1 cup
1 tablespoon
In measuring teaspoons or
tablespoons of pesticide, use only level
spoonfuls, and never use t tie same
measuring devices for food preparation.
The following table provides examples
to help you convert label information to
your specific use situations. "Amount"
can be any measure of pesticide
quantity. However, the same unit of
measure must be used on both sides of
the chart. For example, 8 fluid ounces per
gallon of water is equivalent to 2 fluid
ounces per quart of water.
Not all dosage rates are included in
the above examples. For rates not
included, remember that, for pesticides
not diluted with water, proportionally
change both the quantity of pesticide
and the area, volume, or number of
items treated. For example, one-half
pound per 1,000 square feet is
equivalent to one-quarter pound per 500
square feet. For a pesticide that is
diluted with water, proportionally
change the quantity of pesticide, the
quantity of water, and the area, volume,
or number of items treated. For
example, one-half pound of pesticide in
1 gallon of water applied to 1,000 square
feet is equivalent to 1 pound of
pesticide in 2 gallons of water applied to
2,000 square feet.
There is a point at which
measurements needed for smaller
quantities of pesticides are too minute
to be accurately measured with typical
domestic measuring devices. In such
cases, the user can either mix the larger
volume, realizing that there will be
leftover material; obtain a more accurate
measuring device, such as a graduated
cylinder or a scale which measures
small weights; or search for an
alternative pesticide or less concentrated
formulation of the same pesticide.
Pesticide Label
Amount Pesticide
8 units
16 units
32 units
128 units
Pesticide Label
Amount Pesticide
1 units
2 units
5 units
10 units
Pesticide Label
Aerosol Cans
1
1
1
Says Mix
Per
1 gal. water
1 gal. water
1 gal. water
1 gal. water
Says Apply
Per
1,000 sq. ft.
1,000 sq. rt.
1,000 sq. :t.
1,000 sq. :t.
Says Release
Per
10,000 cu. ft.
5,000 cu. ft.
2,500 cu. ft
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
EQUALS
Amount of
1 qt. Water
2 units
4 units
8 units
32 units
Amount of
20,000 sq. ft.
20 units
40 units
100 units
200 units
Cans Per
20,000 cu. ft.
2
4
8
Pesticide Per
1 pt. Water
1 unit
2 units
4 units
16 units
Pesticide Per
10,000 sq. ft
10 units
20 units
50 units
100 units
10,000 cu. ft.
1
2
4
500 sq. ft.
'/2 units
1 units
2'/2 units
5 units
5,000 cu. ft.
don't use
1
2
-------
Storing and Disposing of Pesticides Safely
The following tips on home storage
and disposal can help you handle
pesticides safely.
Storage
• Buy only enough product to carry
you through the use season, to reduce
storage problems.
• Store pesticides away from children
and pets. A locked cabinet in a
well ventilated utility area or garden
shed is best.
• Store flammable liquids outside living
quarters and away from an ignition
source.
• Mix only the amount you need for
the job at hand.
• Never put pesticides in cabinets with,
or near, food, medical supplies, or
cleaning materials. Always store
pesticides in their original containers,
complete with labels that list
ingredients, directions for use, and
antidotes in case of accidental
poisoning. Never transfer pesticides to
soft drink bottles or other containers
that children may associate with
something to eat or drink. Always
properly refasten child proof closures or
lids.
• Avoid storing pesticides in places
where flooding is possible, or in open
places where they might spill or leak
into the environment. If you have any
doubt about the content of a container,
throw it out.
Disposal
• Follow label directions for guidance
on product (and container) disposal.
• To dispose of less than a full
container of a liquid pesticide, leave it
in the original container, with the cap
securely in place to prevent spills or
leaks. Wrap the container in several
layers of newspapers and tie securely.
Then place the package in a covered
trash can for routine collection with
municipal refuse (unless your
municipality has other requirements).
• Wrap individual packages of dry
pesticide formulations in several layers
of newspaper, or place the package in a
tight carton or bag, and tape or tie it
closed. As with liquid formulations,
place the package in a covered trash can
for routine collection.
• Empty pesticide containers can be as
hazardous as full ones, because of
residues remaining inside. Never reuse
these containers. Handle as above.
Treated this way, small quantities of
pesticides are not hazardous to trash
collectors or to the environment. In a
properly operated sanitary landfill for
municipal refuse, the pesticides will be
sufficiently diluted and contained to
negate any hazardous effects.
• If you do not have a regular trash
collection service, crush and then bury
empty pesticide containers at least 18
inches deep in a place on your property
away from water sources, where you
grow food, or where children may play.
Do not puncture or burn a pressurized
container. It could explode.
• Do not burn pesticide boxes or sacks
either outdoors or in apartment
incinerators, since this can create
poisonous fumes or gases, or cause an
explosion. Do not pour leftover
pesticides down the sink or into the
toilet. Chemicals in the pesticides could
interfere with the operation of septic
tanks or pollute waterways, because
many municipal wastewater treatment
systems cannot remove all pesticide
residues.
• If you have doubts about proper
pesticide disposal, contact your local
health department.
• Rinsings and spent dips should be
washed down your drain—never pour
onto the ground.
• Puncture any non-pressurized, empty
containers to prevent re-use.
• Watch for local "amnesty days" or
opportunities to bring hazardous
household wastes to properly equipped
collection stations.
-------
How to Choose a Pest Control Company
nPermites are chomping away at your
J. house. Roaches are taking over your
kitchen. Mouse droppings dot your
dresser drawer. You've got a pest
control problem, and you've decided
that it's too serious for you to solve on
your own. You've decided you need a
professional exterminator.
If you find yourself in a situation like
this, what can you do to be sure that
the pest control company you hire will
do a good job? Here are some questions
you can ask:
1. Does the company have a good track
record?
Don't rely on the company salesman to
answer this question; research the
answer yourself. Ask around among
neighbors and friends; have1 any of
them dealt with the company before?
Were they satisfied with the service
they received? Call the Better Business
Bureau or local consumer office; have
they received any complaints about the
company?
2. Does the company have insurance?
What kind of insurance? Can the
salesman show some documentation to
prove that the company is insured?
Contractor's general liability insurance,
including insurance for sudden and
accidental pollution, gives you as a
homeowner a certain degree of
protection should an accident occur
while pesticides are being applied in
your home. Contractor's workmen's
compensation insurance can also help
protect you should an employee of the
contractor be injured while working in
your home.
In most states, pest control companies
are not required to buy insurance, but
you should think twice before dealing
with a company that is uninsured.
3. Is the company licensed?
Regulatory agencies in some states issue
state pest control licenses. Although the
qualifications for a license vary from
state to state, at a minimum the license
requires that each company have a
certified pesticide applicator present in
the office on a daily basis to supervise
the work of exterminators using
restricted-use pesticides. (Certified
applicators are formally trained and
"certified" as qualified to use or
supervise the use of pesticides that are
classified for restricted use.) If
restricted-use pesticides are to be
applied on your premises, make sure
the pest control operator's license is
current. Also ask if the company's
employees are bonded.
You may want to contact your state
lead pesticide agency to ask about its
pesticide certification and training
programs and to inquire if periodic
recertification is required for pest
control operators.
In addition to the licenses required in
some states, some cities also issue pest
control licenses. Again, qualifications
vary, but possession of a city
license—where they are available—is
one more assurance that the company
you are dealing with is reputable and
responsible.
4. Is the company affiliated with a
professional pest control association?
Professional associations—whether
national, state, or local—keep members
informed of new developments in pest
control methods, safety, training,
research, and regulation. They also have
codes of ethics that members agree to
abide by. The fact that a company,
small or large, chooses to affiliate itself
with a professional association signals
its concern for the quality of its work.
5. Does the company guarantee its work
in writing? What does the guarantee
cover? How long does it remain in
effect?
As with insurance, you should think
twice about dealing with a company
unwilling to guarantee its work. Be sure
to find out what you must do to keep
the guarantee in force. For example, in
the case of termite control treatments, a
guarantee may be invalidated if
structural alterations are made without
prior notice to the pest control
company.
6. Is the company willing, and able, to
discuss the treatment proposed for your
home?
-------
Selecting a pest control service is just as
important as selecting other professional
services. Look for the same high degree
of competence you would expect from a
doctor or lawyer. The company should
inspect your premises and outline a
recommended control program,
including what pests are to be
controlled; the extent of the infestation;
what pesticide formulation will be used
in your home and why; what
techniques will be used in application;
what alternatives to the formulation and
techniques could be used instead; what
special instructions you should follow to
reduce your exposure to the pesticide
(such as vacating the house, emptying
the cupboards, removing pets, etc.); and
what you can do to minimize your pest
problems in the future.
Contracts should be jointly
developed. Any safety concerns should
be noted and reflected in the choice of
pesticides to be used. These concerns
could include allergies, age of occupants
(infants or elderly), or pets. You may
want to get two to three bids from
different companies—by value, not
price. What appears to be a bargain may
merit a second look.
Even after you have hired a company,
you should continue your vigilance.
Evaluate results. If you have reason to
believe that something has gone wrong
with the pesticide application, contact
your state lead pesticide agency. Don't
let your guard down, and don't stop
asking questions.
How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides
Because chemical pesticides are so
widely used in our society, and
because of the properties of many of the
chemicals, low levels of pesticide
residues are found throughout the
environment. Pesticides reach us in a
variety of ways—through food, water,
and air.
In regulating pesticides, EPA strives
to ensure that lawful use of these
products will not result in harmful
exposures. Proper use of registered
products should yield residue levels that
are well within established safety
standards. Therefore, the average
American's exposure to low-level
residues, though fairly constant, should
not cause alarm.
Still, many people want to learn what
choices they can make to further reduce
their exposure to any potential risks
associated with pesticides. By limiting
your exposure to these products, you
can keep your risks to a minimum.
Below you will find descriptions of
the main pathways of human exposure
to pesticides, as well as suggestions on
ways to reduce overall exposure and
attendant risks. If, however, you
suspect that you suffer from serious
chemical sensitivities, consult an expert
to develop a more personally tailored
approach to managing this problem.
Exposure Through Food
Commercial Food
Throughout life—beginning even before
birth—we are all exposed to pesticides.
A major source of exposure is through
our diets. We constantly consume small
amounts of pesticides. Field-grown raw
agricultural commodities, as well as
meat, poultry, eggs, and milk, are all
likely to contain measurable pesticide
residues.
EPA sets standards, called tolerances,
to limit the amount of pesticide residues
that legally may remain in or on food or
animal feed marketed in United States
commerce. Both domestic and imported
foods are monitored by the Food and
Drug Administration (FDA) and the
U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)
to ensure compliance with these
tolerances. Further, since pesticide
residues generally tend to degrade over
time and through processing, residue
concentrations in or on most foods are
well below legal tolerance levels by the
time the foods are purchased.
Although EPA does limit dietary
pesticide exposure through tolerances,
you may wish to take extra precautions.
You can take several steps to reduce
your exposure to residues in purchased
food.
-------
• Rinse fruit and vegetables thoroughly
with water; scrub them with a brush
and peel them, if possible. Although
this surface cleaning will not remove
"systemic" pesticide residues taken up
into the growing plant, it will remove
most of the existing surface residues,
not to mention any dirt.
• Cook or bake foods to reduce
residues of some (but not all) pesticides.
• Trim the fat from meat and poultry.
Discard the fats and oils in broths and
pan drippings, since residues of some
pesticides concentrate in fat.
Home-grown Food
Growing some of your own food can be
both a pleasurable activity and a way to
reduce your exposure to pesticide
residues in food. But, even here, there
are some things you may want to do to
assure that exposure is limited.
• Before converting land in an urban or
suburban area to gardening, find out
how the land was used previously.
Choose a site that had limited (or no)
chemical applications and where drift or
runoff from your neighbor's activities
will not result in unintended pesticide
residues on your produce. Choose a
garden site strategically to avoid these
potential routes of entry, if possible.
If you are taking over an existing
garden plot, be aware that the soil may
contain pesticide residues from previous
gardening activities. These residues may
remain in the soil for several years,
depending on the persistence of the
pesticides that were used. Rather than
waiting for the residues to decline
naturally over time, you may speed the
process.
• Plant an interim, non-food crop like
annual rye grass, clover, or alfalfa. Such
crops, with their dense, fibrous root
systems, will take up some of the
lingering pesticide residues. Then
discard the crops—don't work them
back into the soil—and continue to
alternate food crops with cover crops in
the off season.
• During sunny periods, turn over the
soil as often as every two to three days
for a week or two. The sunlight will
break down, or photodegrade, some of
the pesticide residues.
Once you do begin gardening,
develop strategies that will reduce your
need for pesticides while maintaining
good crop yields.
• Concentrate on building your
garden's soil, since healthy soil grows
healthy plants. Feed the soil with
compost, manure, etc., to increase its
capacity to support strong crops.
• Select seeds and seedlings from
hardy, disease-resistant varieties. The
resulting plants are less likely to need
pesticides in order to flourish.
• Avoid monoculture gardening
techniques. Instead, alternate rows of
different kinds of plants to prevent
significant pest problems from
developing.
• Rotate your crops yearly to reduce
plant susceptibility to over-wintered
pests.
• Become familiar with integrated pest
management (IPM) techniques, so that
you can manage any pest outbreaks that
do occur without relying solely on
pesticides.
• Mulch your garden with leaves, hay,
grass clippings, shredded/chipped bark,
or seaweed. Avoid using newspapers to
keep down weeds, and sewage sludge
to fertilize plants. Newsprint may
contain heavy metals; sludge may
contain heavy metals and pesticides,
both of which can leach into your soil.
10
-------
Food from the Wild
While it might seem that hunting your
own game, catching your own fish, or
gathering wild plant foods would
reduce your overall exposure to
pesticides, this isn't necessarily so. Wild
foods hunted, caught, or gathered in
areas where pesticides are frequently
used outdoors may contain pesticide
residues. Migratory species also may
bear residual pesticides if these
chemicals are used anywhere in their
flyways.
Tolerances generally are not
established or enforced for pesticides
found in wild game, fowl, fish, or
plants. Thus, if you consume food from
the wild, you may want to take the
following steps to reduce your exposure
to pesticide residues.
• Although wild game is very lean and
thus carries a relatively small body
burden of pesticides, avoid hunting in
areas where pesticide usage is very
high.
• Avoid fishing in water bodies where
water contamination is known to have
occurred. Pay attention to posted signs
warning of contamination.
• You may want to consult with fish
and game officials where you plan to
hunt or fish to determine whether there
are any pesticide problems associated
with that area.
• When picking wild plant foods, avoid
gathering right next to a road, utility
right-of-way, or hedgerow between
farm fields which probably have been
treated (directly or indirectly) with
pesticides. Instead, seek out fallow
fields, deep woods, or other areas
where pesticide use is unlikely.
• When preparing wild foods, trim fat
from meat, and discard skin of fish to
remove as many fat-soluble pesticide
residues as possible. For wild plant
foods, follow the tips provided for
commercial food.
Exposure Through Water
Whether it comes from surface- or
ground-water sources, the water
flowing from your tap may contain low
levels of pesticides.
When pesticides are applied to land, a
certain amount may run off the land
into streams and rivers. This runoff,
coupled with industrial discharges, can
result in low-level contamination of
surface water. In certain hydrogeologic
settings—for example, sandy soil over a
ground-water source that is near the
surface—pesticides can leach down to
the ground water.
EPA's Water Program sets standards
and provides advisory levels for
pesticides and other chemicals that may
be found in drinking water. Public
municipal water systems test their water
periodically and provide treatment or
alternate supply sources if residue
problems arise. Private wells generally
are not tested unless the well owner
requests such analysis.
If you get your drinking water from a
private well, you can reduce the chance
of contaminating your water supply by
following these guidelines.
• Be cautious about using pesticides
and other chemicals on your property,
especially if the well is shallow or is not
tightly constructed. Check with your
EPA regional office or county
cooperative extension service before
using a pesticide outdoors, to determine
whether it is known or suspected to leach
to ground water. Never use or mix a
pesticide near your wellhead.
• To avoid pesticide contamination
problems, be sure your well extends
downward to aquifers that are below,
and isolated from, surface aquifers, and
be sure the well shaft is tightly sealed.
If you have questions about pesticide or
other chemical residues in your well
water, contact your state or county
health department.
• If your well water is analyzed and
found to contain pesticide residue levels
above established or recommended
health standards, you may wish to use
an alternate water source such as
11
-------
bottled water for drinking and cooking.
The best choice is distilled spring water
in glass bottles. Ask your local bottler
for the results of a recent pesticide
analysis.
Exposure Through Air
Outdoors, air currents may carry
pesticides that were applied on adjacent
property or miles away. But there are
steps you can take to reduce your
exposure to airborne pesticide residue,
or drift, outdoors. To reduce your
exposure to airborne pesticides:
• Avoid applying pesticides in windy
weather (when winds exceed 10 miles
per hour).
• Use coarse droplet nozzles to reduce
misting.
• Apply the spray as close to the target
as possible.
• Keep the wind to your side so that
sprays and dusts do not blow into your
face.
• If someone else is applying pesticides
outdoors near your home, stay indoors
with your pets and children, keeping
doors and windows closed. If it is very
windy during the pesticide application,
stay inside for an hour or two.
• If pesticides are applied frequently
near your home (if you live next to
fields receiving regular pesticide
treatment), consider planting a buffer
zone of thick-branched trees and
shrubs upwind to help serve as a buffer
zone and windbreak.
• Many local governments require
public notification in advance of
area-wide or broad-scale pesticide spray
activities and programs—through
announcements in newspapers, letters
to area residents, or posting of signs in
areas to be treated. Some communities
have also enacted "right to know"
ordinances which require public
notification, usually through posting, of
lawn treatments and other small-scale
outdoor pesticide uses. If your local
government does not require
notifications, either for large- or
small-scale applications, you may want
to work with local officials to develop
such requirements.
Indoors, the air you breathe may bear
pesticide residues long after a pesticide
has been applied to objects in your
home or office, or to indoor surfaces
and crawl spaces. Pesticides dissipate
more slowly indoors than outdoors. In
addition, energy efficiency features built
into many homes reduce air exchange,
aggravating the problem. To limit your
exposure to indoor pesticide residues:
• Use pesticides indoors only when
absolutely necessary, and then use only
limited amounts. Provide adequate
ventilation during and after application.
If you hire a pest control company,
oversee its activities carefully.
• If pesticides are used inside your
home, air out the house often, since
outdoor air generally is fresher and
purer than indoor air. Open doors and
windows, and run overhead or
whole-house fans to exchange indoor air
for outside air rapidly and completely.
• If pesticides have been used
extensively and an indoor air
contamination problem has developed,
clean—scrub—all surfaces where
pesticides may have settled, including
cracks and crevices. Consult a
knowledgeable professional for advice
on appropriate cleaning materials if
soap and water are insufficient.
Exposure Through Home
Usage
Over a lifetime, diet is the most
significant source of pesticide exposure
for the general public. However, on a
short-term basis, the most significant
exposure source is personal pesticide
use.
An array of pesticide products,
ranging widely in toxicity and potential
effects, is available "off the shelf" to the
private user. No special training is
required to purchase or use these
products, and no one is looking over
the user's shoulder, monitoring his
vigilance in reading and following label
instructions. Yet many of these products
are hazardous, especially if they are
12
-------
stored, handled, or applied improperly.
To minimize the hazards and
maximize the benefits that pesticides
bring, exercise caution and respect
when using any pesticide product.
• Consider pesticide labeling to be what
it is intended to be: your best guide to
using pesticides safely and effectively.
• Pretend that the pesticide product
you are using is more toxic than you
think it is. Take special precautions to
ensure an extra margin of protection for
yourself, your family, and pets.
• Don't use more pesticide than the
label says. You may not achieve a
higher degree of pest control, and you
will certainly experience a higher degree
of risk.
• If you hire a pest control firm to do
the job, ask the company to use the
least toxic or any chemical-free pest
control means available. For example,
some home pest control companies offer
an electro-gun technique to control
termite and similar infestations by
penetrating infested areas and "frying"
the problem pests without using any
chemicals.
• And remember: sometimes a
non-pesticidal approach is as convenient
and effective as its chemical alternatives.
Consider using such alternative
approaches whenever possible.
"Someone's Been Poisoned. Help!'
What To Do in a Pesticide Emergency
The potential for a pesticide to cause
injury depends upon several factors:
• Toxicity of the active ingredient.
Toxicity is a measure of the inherent
ability of a chemical to produce injury.
Some pesticides, such as pyrethrins,
have low human toxicity while others,
such as sodium fluoroacetate, are
extremely toxic.
• Dose. The greater the dose of
pesticide, i.e. the amount absorbed, the
greater the risk of injury. Dose is
dependent upon the absolute amount of
the pesticide absorbed relative to the
weight of the person. Therefore, small
amounts of pesticide might produce
illness in a small child while the same
dose in an adult might be relatively
harmless.
• Route of absorption. Swallowing a
pesticide usually creates the most
serious problem. In practice, however,
the most common route of absorption of
pesticides is through the skin and the
more toxic pesticides have caused
fatalities through this route.
• Duration of exposure. The longer a
person is exposed to pesticides, the
higher the level in the body. However,
there is a point at which an equilibrium
will develop between the intake and the
output. Then, the level will no longer
continue to increase. This point may be
either above or below the known toxic
level.
• Physical and chemical properties.
The distribution and the rates of
breakdown of pesticides in the
environment significantly alter the
likelihood that injury might occur.
• Population at risk. Persons who run
the greatest danger of poisoning are
those whose exposure is highest, such
as workers who mix, load, or apply
pesticides. However, the general public
also faces the possibility of exposure.
Recognizing Pesticide
Poisoning
Like other chemicals, pesticides may
produce injury externally or internally.
External irritants may cause
contact-associated skin disease primarily
of an irritant nature — producing
redness, itching, or pimples—or an
allergic skin reaction, producing
13
-------
redness, swelling, or blistering. The
mucous membranes of the eyes, nose,
mouth, and throat are also quite
sensitive to chemicals. Stinging and
swelling can occur.
Internal injuries from any chemical may
occur depending upon where a chemical
is transported in the body. Thus,
symptoms are dependent upon the
organ involved. Shortness of breath,
clear sputum production, or rapid
breathing occurs as the result of lung
injury. Nausea, vomiting, abdominal
cramps, or diarrhea may result from
direct injury to the gastrointestinal tract.
Excessive fatigue, sleepiness, headache,
muscle twitching, and loss of sensation
may result from injury to the nervous
system. In general, different classes of
pesticides produce different sets of
symptoms.
For example, organophosphate
pesticides may produce symptoms of
pesticide poisoning affecting several
different organs, and may progress
rapidly from very mild to severe.
Symptoms may progress in a matter of
minutes from slight difficulty with
vision to paralysis of the diaphragm
muscle, causing inability to breathe.
Therefore, if someone develops
symptoms after working with
pesticides, seek medical help promptly
to determine if the symptoms are
pesticide-related. In certain cases, blood
or urine can be collected for analysis, or
other specific exposure tests can be
made. It is better to be too cautious
than too late.
It is always important to avoid
problems by minimizing your exposure
when mixing and applying pesticides by
wearing gloves and other protective
clothing.
The appropriate first aid treatment
depends upon which pesticide was
used. Here are some tips for first aid
that may precede, but should not
substitute for, medical treatment:
• Poison on skin. Drench skin with
water and remove contaminated
clothing. Wash skin and hair thoroughly
with soap and water. Dry victim and
wrap in blanket. Later, discard
contaminated clothing or thoroughly
wash it separately from other laundry.
• Chemical burn on skin. Drench skin
with water and remove contaminated
clothing. Cover burned area
immediately with loose, clean, soft
cloth. Do not apply ointments, greases,
powders, or other drugs. Later, discard
or thoroughly wash contaminated
clothing separately from other laundry.
• Poison in eye. Eye membranes absorb
pesticides faster than any other external
part of the body; eye damage can occur
in a few minutes with some types of
pesticides. Hold eyelid open and wash
eye quickly and gently with clean,
running water from the tap or a hose
for 15 minutes or more. Do not use eye
drops or chemicals or drugs in the wash
water.
• Inhaled poison. Carry or drag victim
to fresh air immediately. (If proper
protection is unavailable to you, call for
emergency equipment from the Fire
Department.) Loosen victim's tight
clothing. If the victim's skin is blue or
the victim has stopped breathing, give
artificial respiration and call rescue
service for help. Open doors and
windows so no one else will be
poisoned by fumes.
• Swallowed poison. A conscious
victim should rinse his mouth with
plenty of water and drink up to one
quart of milk or water to dilute the
pesticide. Induce vomiting only if
instructions to do so are on the label. If
there is no label available to guide you,
do not induce vomiting if the victim has
swallowed a corrosive poison or an
emulsifiable concentrate or oil solution,
or if the victim is unconscious or is
having convulsions.
In dealing with any poisoning, act
fast; speed is crucial.
First Aid for Pesticide
Poisoning
First aid is the first step in treating a
pesticide poisoning. Study the
"Statement of Treatment" on the
product label before you use a pesticide.
When you realize a pesticide poisoning
is occurring, be sure the victim is not
14
-------
being further exposed to the poison
before calling for emergency help. An
unconscious victim will have to be
dragged into fresh air. Caution: do not
become poisoned yourself while trying
to help. You may have to put on
breathing equipment or protective
clothing to avoid becoming the second
victim.
After giving initial first aid, get
medical help immediately. This advice
cannot be repeated too often. Bring the
product container with its label to the
doctor's office or emergency room
where the victim will be treated; keep
the container out of the passenger space
of your vehicle. The doctor needs to
know what chemical is in the pesticide
before prescribing treatment
(information that is also on the label).
Sometimes the label even includes a
telephone number to call for additional
treatment information.
A good resource in a pesticide
emergency is NPTN, the National
Pesticide Telecommunications Network,
a toll-free telephone service. Operators
are on call 24 hours a day, 365 days a
year, to provide information on
pesticides and on recognizing and
responding to pesticide poisonings. If
necessary they can transfer inquiries
directly to affiliated poison control
centers.
National Pesticide
Telecommunications Network
Call Toll-Free 1-800-858-7378
NPTN operators answer questions
about animal as well as human
poisonings. To keep your pets from
being poisoned, follow label directions
on flea and tick products carefully, and
keep pets off lawns that have been
newly treated with weed killers and
insecticides.
EPA is interested in receiving
information on any adverse effects
associated with pesticide exposure. If
you have such information, contact
Frank Davido, Pesticide Incident
Response Officer, Hazard Evaluation
Division (TS-769C), Office of Pesticide
Programs, EPA, 401 M Street, SW.,
Washington, D.C. 20460 (telephone
703-557-0576). You should provide as
complete information as possible,
including any official investigation
report of the incident and medical
records concerning adverse health
effects. Medical records will be held in
confidence.
EPA Regional Offices and States Covered
EPA Region 1
JFK Federal Building
Boston, MA 02203
(617) 565-3424
Connecticut, Massachusetts,
Maine, New Hampshire,
Rhode Island, Vermont
EPA Region 2
26 Federal Plaza
New York, NY 10278
(212) 264-2515
New Jersey, New York, Puerto
Rico, Virgin Islands
EPA Region 3
841 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
(215) 597-9370
Delaware, Maryland,
Pennsylvania,
Virginia, West Virginia,
District of Columbia
EPA Region 4
345 Courtland Street, N.E
Atlanta, GA 30365
(404) 347-3004
Alabama, Florida, Georgia,
Kentucky, Mississippi, North
Carolina, South Carolina,
Tennessee
15
EPA Region 5
230 South Dearborn Street
Chicago, IL 60604
(312) 353-2072
Illinois, Indiana, Michigan,
Minnesota, Ohio, Wisconsin
-------
•iState Pesticide Agencies
EPA Region 6
1445 Ross Avenue
Dallas, TX 75202
(214) 655-2200
Arkansas, Louisiana, New
Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas
EPA Region 7
726 Minnesota Avenue
Kansas City, KS 66101
(913) 236-2803
Iowa, Kansas, Missouri,
Nebraska
EPA Region 8
One Denver Place
999 18th Street, Suite 1300
Denver, CO 80202.2413
(303) 293-1692
Colorado, Montana, North
Dakota,
South Dakota, Utah, Wyoming
EPA Region 9
215 Fremont Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 974-8083
Arizona, California, Hawaii,
Nevada, American Samoa,
Guam, Trust Territories of
the Pacific
EPA Region 10
1200 Sixth Avenue
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 442-1465
Alaska, Idaho, Oregon,
Washington
EPA Headquarters
401 M Street S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460
(202) 382-4454
Region 1
Connecticut
Dr. Stephen Hitchcock, Director
Dept. of Environmental Protection
Hazardous Materials Management
Unit
State Office Building
165 Capitol Avenue
Hartford, CT 06115
(203) 566-5148
Maine
Robert Batteese, Director
Pesticides Control Board
State Office Building - Station 28
Augusta, ME 04333
(207) 289-2731
Massachusetts
Jeffrey Carlson, Chief
Pesticides Bureau
Department of Food and Agriculture
100 Cambridge Street, 21st Floor
Boston, MA 02202
(617) 727-7712
New Hampshire
Murray McKay, Supervisor
Pesticides Control Division
Department of Agriculture
Caller Box 2042
Concord, NH 03301
(603) 271-3550
Rhode Island
Stephen W. Higgins, Chief
Division of Agriculture & Marketing
Dept. of Environmental Management
22 Hayes Street
Providence, RI 02903
(401) 277-2782
Vermont
Philip Benedict, Director
Plant Industry Division
Dept. of Agriculture
116 State St., State Office Bldg.
Montpeher, VT 05602
(802) 828-2431
Region 2
New Jersey
Ray Ferrarin, Acting Chief
Bureau of Pesticide Control
NJ Dept. of Environmental
Protection
380 Scotch Road
West Trenton, NJ 08265
(609) 530-4123
New York
Marilyn DuBois, Director
Bureau of Pesticides
Dept. of Environmental
Conservation
Rm. 404, 50 Wolf Rd.
Albany, NY 12233
(518) 457-7482
Puerto Rico
Mrs. Arline Gonzales, Director
Analysis & Registration of
Agricultural Materials
Division of Laboratory
Puerto Rico Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 10163
Santurce, PR 00908
(809) 796-1710, 1715
Virgin Islands
Minerva Callwood, Director
Pesticide Programs
Division of Natural Resources
Management
Dept. of Conservation & Cultural
Affairs
111 Watergut Homes
Chnstiansted, St. Croix
U.S. Virgin Islands 00820
(809) 773X1565
Region 3
Delaware
Grier Stayton
Delaware Dept of Agriculture
2320 S. DuPont Highway
Dover, DE 19901
(302) 736-4815
District of Columbia
Angelo Tompros
Pesticide Section
Dept. of Consumer and Regulatory
Affairs
District of Columbia
5010 Overlook Ave., S.W.
Washington, DC 20032
(202) 783-3194 or 3195
Maryland
David Shnver, Chief
Pesticide Applicators Law Section
Maryland Dept. of Agriculture
50 Harry S. Truman Parkway
Annapolis, MD 21401
(301) 841-5710
Pennsylvania
John Longenecker
Chief, Agronomic Services
Bureau of Plant Industry
PA Dept of Agriculture
2301 N. Cameron Street
Harrisburg, PA 17110
(717) 787-4843
Virginia
Billy Walls, Supervisor
VA Dept. of Agriculture &
Consumer Service
P.O. Box 1163
Richmond, VA 23209
(804) 786-3798
West Virginia
Robert Frame
Plant Pest Control Division
W VA Dept. of Agriculture
Capitol Building
Charleston, WV 25305
(304) 348-2212
Region 4
Alabama
John A. Bloch, Director
Ag Chemistry/Plant Industry
Division
Alabama Dept. of Agriculture &
Commerce
P.O. Box 3336
Montgomery, AL 36193
(205) 261-2656
Florida
James A. Downing, Administrator
Dept. of Agriculture & Consumer
Services
Mayo Building, Rm 213
Tallahassee, Ft 32301
(904) 487-2130
16
-------
Georgia
Tom Delaney, Agricultural Manager
Entomology and Pesticides Division
Dept. of Agriculture
19 Martin Luther King, Jr Drive,
S.W.
Atlanta, GA 30334
(404) 656-4958
Kentucky
Michael Stivers, Director
Division of Pesticides
Kentucky Dept. of Agriculture
Capitol Plaza Tower
Frankfort, KY 40601
(502) 564-7274
Mississippi
Robert McCarty
Division of Plant Industry
Dept. of Agriculture & Commerce
P.O. Box 5207
Mississippi State, MS 39762
(601) 325-3390
North Carolina
John L. Smith, Pesticide
Administrator
Pest Control Division
Dept. of Agriculture
State Agriculture Building
Raleigh, NC 27611
(919)733-3556
South Carolina
V. H. McCaskill, Pesticide
Supervisor
Plant Pest Regulatory Service
210 Barre Hall, Clemson University
Clemson, SC 29631
(803) 656-3005
Tennessee
John A. Hammett, Director
Plant Industries Division
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 40627, Melrose Station
Nashville, TN 37204
(615) 360-0117
Region 5
Illinois
William E. Anderson, Chief
Bureau of Plant & Apiary Protection
Dept. of Agriculture
Emmerson Building
Springfield, IL 62706
217-785-2427
Harvey Domimck
Office of Health Regulation
Dept. of Public Health
535 West Jefferson
Springfield, IL 62761
(217) 782-4674
Indiana
L. O. Nelson, Pesticide
Administrator
Office of the State Chemist
Dept. of Biochemistry
Purdue University
West Lafayette, IN 47907
(317) 494-1587
Michigan
Ken Rauscher
Plant Industry Division
Dept. of Agriculture
Lewis Cass Building
P.O. Box 30017
Lansing, MI 48909
(517) 373-1087
Minnesota
William Bulger, Director
Division of Agronomy Services
Dept. of Agriculture
90 West Plato Blvd.
St. Paul, MN 55107
(612) 297-1161
Ohio
Oren Spilker, Specialist in Charge of
Pesticides
Dept. of Agriculture
8995 East Main St
Reynoldsburg, OH 43068
(614) 866-6361
Wisconsin
Nicholoa J Neher, Director
Groundwater and Regulatory Service Missouri
Section
Dept of Agriculture, Trade, and
Consumer Protection
P.O. Box 8911
Madison, Wisconsin 53708
(608) 266-7137
Region 7
Iowa
Charles Eckerman, Supervisor
Pesticide Control Section
Iowa Department of Agriculture
Henry A. Wallace Building
East 7th Street & Court Avenue
Des Moines, IA 50319
(515) 281-8590
Kansas
Dale Lambley, Director
Plant Health Division
Kansas State Board of Agriculture
109 S.W. 9th Street
Topeka, KS 66612
(913) 296-2263
John R. Hagan, Supervisor
Bureau of Pesticide Control
Region 6
Arkansas
Ralph Pay, Director
Division of Feed, Fertilizer &
Pesticides
Arkansas State Plant Board
#1 Natural Resources Rd
Little Rock, AR 72205
(501) 225-1598
Louisiana
H. F. "Butch" Calhoun III
Office of Agricultural &
Environmental Sciences
Louisiana Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 11453
Baton Rouge, LA 70804
504) 925-3763
New Mexico
Barry E. Patterson, Chief
Division of Agricultural &
Environmental Services
N. M. State Dept. of Agriculture
P. O. Box 3150
New Mexico State University
Las Cruces, NM 88003
(505) 646-2133
Oklahoma
A. L. Bonner, Supervisor
Pest Management Section
Plant Industry Division
Oklahoma State Dept. of Agriculture
2800 N. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK 73105
(405) 521-3863 or 3871
Texas
Ellen Widess, Director
Division of Agricultural &
Environmental Sciences
Texas Dept. of Agriculture
P O. Box 12847
Austin, TX 78711
(512) 463-7524
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 630
Jefferson City, MO 65102
(314) 751-2462
Nebraska
Rich Reiman, Director
Bureau of Plant Industry
Nebraska Dept. of Agriculture
301 Centennial Mall
Lincoln, NE 68509
(402) 471-2341
Region 8
Colorado
Linda Coulter, Supervisor
Pesticide Section
Division of Plant Industry
Colorado Dept. of Agriculture
4th Floor, 1525 Sherman Street
Denver, CO 80203
(303) 866-2838
Montana
Gary Gingery, Administrator
Environmental Management Division
Agriculture-Livestock Building
Rm 317 Capitol Station
6th and Roberts
Helena, MT 59601
(406) 444-2944
North Dakota
Doug Tollefson, Director
Plant Industries Division
Dept. of Agriculture
State Capitol
Bismarck, ND 58505
(701) 224-4756
South Dakota
Verne Brakke, Director
Division of Regulatory Services
S. D Dept. of Agriculture
Anderson Bldg., 445 East Capitol
Pierre, SD 57501
(605) 773-3375
Utah
Paul Daniels, Director
Division of Plant Industries
Dept. of Agriculture
NodrjLRetUsood Road
-------
Wyoming
Walt Patch, Manager
Plant Industry
Wyoming Dept. of Agriculture
2219 Carey Avenue
Cheyenne, WY 82002
(307) 777-9321
Region 9
Arizona
Les Davis, Director
Agricultural Chemical Environmental
Services Division
AZ Commission of Agriculture and
Horticulture
1688 West Adams
Phoenix, AZ 85007
(602) 255-4373
J. H "Bud" Paulson, State Chemist
Agriculture Experiment Station
P.O Box 1586
Mesa, AZ 85201
(602) 833-5442
Betty Wyckoff, Executive Secretary
Structural Pest Control Board
2207 South 48th - Suite M
Tempe, AZ 85282
(602) 271-3664
California
Rex McGee, Associate Deputy
Director
Division of Pest Management,
Environmental Protection, & Worker
Safety
California Dept of Food &
Agriculture
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 322-6315
Hawaii
Po Yung Lai, Head
Division of Plant Industry
Hawaii Dept. of Agriculture
P O Box 22159
Honolulu, HI 96822
(808) 548-7124
Nevada
Philip Martmelh, Administrator
Division of Plant Industry
Nevada Dept of Agriculture
350 Capitol Hill Avenue
P.O Box 11100
Reno, NV 89510
(702) 789-0180
Guam
Jim Canto, Director
Air & Land Programs Division
Guam Environmental Protection
Agency
P.O Box 2999
Agana, GU 96910
American Samoa
Pemerika L Tauililh, Director
Dept of Agnculture
P.O. Box 366
Pago Pago, American Samoa 96799
Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands
Nachsa Siren, Executive Officer
Trust Territory Environmental
Protection Board
Office of the High Commissioner
Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands
Saipan, Mariana Islands 96950
Commonwealth of the Northern
Vlariana Islands
Carl L. Goldstein, Environmental
Engineer
IDivisions of Environmental Quality
Commonwealth of the Northern
Mariana Islands (CNMI)
Or Torres Hospital
Saipan, Mariana Island 96950
Region 10
Idaho
Rod Awe, Chief
Bureau of Pesticides
Idaho Dept of Agriculture
P.O. Box 790
Boise, ID. 83702
(208) 334-3240
Oregon
Chns Kirby, Assistant Chief
Plant Division
Oregon Dept. of Agnculture
635 Capitol Street, N.E.
Salem, OR 97301
(503) 378-3777
Washington
Glen Smerdon, Chief
Chemicals Branch
Washington Dept of Agriculture
406 General Administration Bldg
Olympia, WA 98504
(206) 753-5064
Alaska
Joe Cladouhos, Director
Division of Environmental Health
Alaska Dept of Environmental
Conservation
Pouch "O"
Juneau, AK 99811
(907) 465-2609
------- |