903K93003
A GUIDE TO REDUCING WATER POLLUTION AT HOME

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                                                                   Chapter 11
                                                                   HOUSEHOLD
                                                                   CHEMICALS
                                                                   pages 22 S. 23
Chapter 1
RESOURCE IN THE BALANCE
pages 2 & 3
                                                               t Chapter?
                                                                 LANDSCAPING
                                                                 pages
                                                      Chapter 12
                                                      WATER CONSER\ATION'    '
Chapter 2
EROSION CONTROL
pages 4 & 5
Chapter 5
SEPTIC SYSTEMS
pages 10 & 11
                                                                                 Chapter
                                                                                 RECREATION
                                                                                 pages 26 & 27
                                                                 Chapter 8
                                                                 /./1WWS
                                                                 pages 16 & 17
Chapter 3
CHECK YOUR SOIL
pages 6 & 7
                           Chapter 6
                           PAVEMENT
                           pages 12 & 13
                                                      Chapter 14
                                                      COMMUNITY ACTION
                                                      pages 28 & 29
                                  .nijl,-
                                                      Chapter 9
                                                      GARDENING
                                                      pages 18 & 19
                                                                                 RESOURCES
                                                                                 pages 30 & 31
                                                                   Chapter 10
                                                                   PESTICIDES
                                                                   pages 20 & 21
                                                      ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
                                                      page 32

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Chapter 1
A People's Bay

     t's called a "people's Bay."
  :  The Chesapeake Bay water-
    shed is home to more than
    15 million people who live
 on dozens of rivers and thou-
 sands of creeks — people who
 enjoy the  beauty and bounty of
 this immense estuary. Water in
 the Bay's 64,000-square mile
 drainage basin — from the Fin-
 ger Lakes in New York, down the
 mighty Susquehanna River in
 Pennsylvania, to the thriving
 ports of Baltimore and Hamp-
 ton Roads — provides us with
 food and recreation, cools our
 power plants, and fuels our
 economy.
    Most of us tend to take this
 for granted. We expect clean
 and plentiful water to swim and
 boat in, water to nourish the
 crabs and fish the Bay is famous
 for, water  in abundance when
 we turn on our taps. But if we
 don't take steps now to improve
 the quality of the water in the
 Chesapeake Bay, the waters we
 take for granted may one day be
 gone.

 The Home — A Pathway
 to the Bay

            ater is one of the
            most remarkable
      \t compounds in
          nature. Most of the
 features and processes of our
 physical environment — the at-
 mosphere, soil, and all living
 things — ultimately depend
 upon its unique properties.
 Water absorbs more substances
 than any other liquid, and it is
 this property that helps make
 the Bay a chemical repository.  It
 is this property that sustains the
 process of erosion and sedimen-
 tation — the constant washing
 and sweeping away of minerals,
 salts, chemicals, sand, silt, and
 soil from the land into the Bay.
   We are an integral part of
this process. Every time we
wash our hands, clean our
drains, or water our lawns, we
add our wastes and excesses to
the water flowing into the Bay.
Heavy sediment loads in the Bay
and its tributaries are now a
major form of pollution, threat-
ening the aquatic life that de-
pends on clean water to survive.
Continuous accumulation of
toxic products from home use
threaten fish and shellfish, and
ultimately threaten our enjoy-
ment of the Bay for swimming
and recreation. Fertilizers can
deprive the Bay of the oxygen
needed to support life in the
Bay. Our homes are indeed
pathways to the Bay.
   For too long, we have taken
the Bay's bounty for granted.
The largest and most productive
estuary in the United States —
home to more than 2,700 spe-
cies of plants and animals — is
slowly dying. An extensive
seven-year, $27 million Environ-
mental Protection Agency study
confirmed that the Bay has been
seriously harmed by environ-
mentally  unsound decisions
made over a period of decades.
Growing commercial, industrial,
recreational, and urban activi-
ties in the Bay area are putting
substantial pressure on the
Bay's fragile ecology.
   It's time we stopped taking
the Bay for granted. If it is a
people's Bay, then we must
make its problems ours if we
are to preserve and protect this
great national treasure.
The Cleanup Begins

        Qince the EPA study was
        released in 1983. the
       private and public sec-
 ^^ tors have formed an un-
precedented alliance. For the
first time, Pennsylvania, Mary-
land, and Virginia— the three
states that share the largest por-
tion of the Bay watershed—and
the District of Columbia have
formally joined together to im-
plement the EPA study recom-
mendations. They are working
on ambitious legislative and
budgetary initiatives to address
the problems of Industrial pol-
lution, agricultural runoff,  and
fisheries management. Now is
the time for ordinary citizens
like you and your neighbors to
get involved.
Citizen Participation -
A Key Element

        Public interest in the
        Bay has grown since
       the states and the fed-
       eral government
announced their plans to clean
up the Bay. This publication is
dedicated to the enthusiasm
and creativity of people like you
— people who live in five million
households around the Bay. The
diverse elements of your every-
day life — from selecting a
building site for a new home to
WHAT YOU
CAN DO

     n each chapter
    of this guide,
    there are specific
   suggestions
about what you can
do to improve the
quality of life in your
home, in your
neighborhood, and
in the Bay.
  Learn how your
  daily routines
  affect the Bay
  Read the Baybook
  for easy-to-do
  suggestions about
  how you can help
  preserve and
  restore the
  Chesapeake Bay

                                                                                                       	'	'
  RESOURCE        IN       THE        BALANCE

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improving your property, from
using less water to eliminating
the use of toxic chemicals in
your home — are all related to
the health and productivity of
the Bay. Though each of the
chapters in the Baybook may be
used separately, the publica-
tion's lasting value lies in their
combined use. With the help of
this guide, you can begin to
form an ethic of respect and
care for the Bay in your home
and your neighborhood.

 Why Be Concerned?

    yi  11 too often we think of
        ourselves as  external to
 y^^ our environment. We
        ignore the many rela-
tionships between people, other
living creatures, and our sur-
roundings. We ignore these re-
lationships at our own risk.
Solutions to environmental
problems are far more effective
when they take into account the
complex connections  between
all parts of the ecosystem.
   A good example of how
solutions to one problem can in-
advertently cause other prob-
lems was the use of the
pesticide DDT in the 1940s.
While providing what seemed
to be huge benefits to agri-
culture, DDT interfered with
eggshell development in several
species of birds in the Bay area,
most notably the osprey.    . »-"*"
          .— •"'**
   DDT is but one instance of
how solutions to problems can
create new areas of concern
about the Bay. Among the many
reasons for concern are:

 Overenrichment of the Bay by
 excessive quantities of nu-
 trients washing off farmers'
 fields, urban areas, and resi-
 dential developments and
 from inadequately treated
 sewage discharges. Over-
 enrichment is causing massive
 algal blooms in the Bay, se-
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                                  verely depleting the available
                                  oxygen in the water and dis-
                                  rupting all aquatic life.
                                  Submerged aquatic vegeta-
                                  tion, which serves as food for
                                  waterfowl, a safe haven for ju-
                                  venile crabs and fish, an an-
                                  chor against erosion, and a
                                  sediment filter, is  at the lowest
                                  level in the Bay's history.
                                  These declines are closely re-
                                  lated to changing water
                                  quality conditions such as de-
                                  creasing water clarity result-
                                  ing from increased nutrient
                                  enrichment or higher loads of
                                  suspended sediments from
                                  .dredging or land runoff.
Oyster harvests have fallen
from an average of two to
three million bushels per year
to 830,000 bushels last year.
The Chesapeake Bay supplies
a quarter of the nation's
oysters. In the last 20 years
the oyster business on the Bay
has declined noticeably.
Landings of certain fish spe-
cies that spawn in the Bay,
such as shad and herring have
dramatically decreased due to
pollution and overfishing.
Striped bass (rockfish) stocks
are at their lowest in history
and their harvest is banned in
a large portion of the Bay.
 RESOURCE       IN       THE       BALANCE

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Chapter 2
 Streambank Erosion

       he Chesapeake Bay is
      fed by 50 major rivers.
      These rivers, in turn, are
     fed by the thousands of
 creeks and streams, which form
 an intricate network throughout
 the 64,000-square mile drainage
 basin of the Bay. How you man-
 age the land around the stream
 or creek in your neighborhood
 helps determine the quality and
 quantity of the freshwater flow-
 ing into the Bay.
  The condition of streams
 leading to the Bay depends on
 the answers  to these questions:

  Is the stream receiving runoff
  from lawns, fields, highways,
  or parking lots?
  Are the banks of the stream
  unstable?
  Are there outfall pipes dis-
  charging sewage into the
  stream?
  Are failing  septic systems pol-
  luting the stream?
  Is there a build-up of silt in
  the stream?
  Are the channels of the stream
  becoming wider and deeper?
 * Are there fallen trees in the
  stream?
              If you can answer yes to one
           or more of these questions,
           your stream — and ultimately
           the Bay — is in danger. Sediment
           from eroding streambanks can
           smother aquatic life, clog fish
           gills, and cut off needed light to
           underwater plants.
              Streambank erosion is typ-
           ical of urban, suburban, and
           rural areas where pavement,
           rooftops, compacted soil, and
           other impenetrable surfaces
           prevent rain from filtering down
           into the soil. As a result of these
           conditions, rain cannot enter
           the stream or creek through the
           groundwater. Instead, rain en-
           ters the creek directly, increas-
           ing the volume of water and
           sediment in the stream and
           causing the streambanks to
           erode.
              You and your neighbors can
           minimize Streambank erosion
           by taking a few simple steps
           (see "What You Can Do"). An-
           other important erosion control
           measure is to make sure your
           stream is surrounded by plenty
           of trees. Trees are very impor-
           tant to both the stability of the
           Streambank and the health of
           the stream itself. Trees should
           not be cleared away. Their roots
           are nature's best purifying sys-
           tem because they remove nu-
           trients and sediments harmful
 f  -\ iltaill( *   ~.»', lt               v.       •'/
'^^^P^^-fv
 :fc V?j!§ :^         -  ,/x/f^^ r
^.•;'/// x     /-^    ^~ i"V'' listed in the Resources
                                                       WHAT YOU CAN DO

                                                          I ere are a few of the many things you and your
                                                            neighbors can do to minimize Streambank and
                                                          :  shoreline erosion in your community:
                                                        Remove obstructions from your creek, marsh,
                                                        or stream
                                                        Keep people, cars, and grazing animals away from
                                                        the edge of the water
                                                       s Build steps or a ramp between the top and bottom of
                                                        the bank if you need access to the water
                                                        Avoid heavy loads on the top of streambanks
                                                        or shoreline
                                                       « Control rainfall runoff (see chapter 3)
                                                       • Plant and protect vegetation on the slopes of the
                                                        streambanks and on the areas adjacent to the slope
                                                       * Consult a trained engineer about structural solutions
                                                        for controlling erosion
                                                        Establish marshes to help control shoreline erosion*
                                                        Seek advice from the resources listed in the back of
                                                        this guide.
                                                      'Marshes are particularly important to the Bay ecosystem because
                                                      they are the habitats for fish and crabs, the base of the Bay food
                                                      chain. Marshes serve as a buffer against pollution, provide natu-
                                                      ral protection against erosion by absorbing the energy of ap-
                                                      proaching waves, and trap sediments that clog the Bay.
 EROSION
                                     CONTROL

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to stream and Bay ecology. Trees
provide shade, which decreases
the temperature of the stream
and creates a suitable environ-
ment for fish.
    Before you attempt to plant
trees on the banks of your
neighborhood creek, call your
state's forestry department (see
the Resources section at the
back of this guide) to see which
types will do well in your area.
Some state forestry depart-
ments even sell trees to home-
owners at cost.
   Sometimes streambank ero-
sion has progressed too far for
simple measures. Structural res-
toration measures may be nec-
essary (see "What You Can Do").
Streambank restoration requires
the assistance of a trained pro-
fessional. In Maryland and Vir-
ginia, free advice on structural
solutions is available from the
state agencies listed in the Re-
sources section. Permits from
the Army Corps of Engineers
are required for construction
along waterways. The state and
federal governments also have
permit programs designed to
protect streambanks and
shorelines.


Shoreline Erosion  Control

         Certain  parts of the
        Chesapeake Bay
        shoreline are subject
        to high rates of ero-
sion. Areas with high banks,
areas adjacent to open water,
and areas subject to prevailing
winds can erode an astonishing
10 to 12 feet per year. We con-
tribute to this erosion by boat-
ing, clearing shorefront areas,
altering marshes, and building
close to the shoreline.
    Shoreline and streambank
erosion control strategies share
many of the same techniques.
Structural solutions to shoreline
erosion problems can be expen-
sive, work with  varying success,
and can cause erosion along
other parts of the shoreline.
Vegetative planting is less ex-
pensive and, in  many situations,
can be just as effective as struc-
tural solutions.  Vegetation can-
not provide  protection in severe
exposure situations, and it re-
quires more maintenance. Vege-
tation is also susceptible to
human disturbance and must
be protected against people and
cars.
   Vegetative erosion control
may be an alternative if: (1) the
shoreline is adjacent to less
than three miles of open water;
(2) there is more than four
hours of sunlight daily; (3) there
is a minimum distance of ten
feet between the toe of the bank
and the low tide line; and (4) the
soil is sandy.
   If the shorefront meets
these conditions, vegetative
planting may be a feasible alter-
native to structural erosion con-
trol. Only a few plants will grow
in this shoreline zone [American
beachgrass (Ammophila bre-
viligulata), smooth cordgrass
(Spartina alternifora), and salt-
meadow hay (Spartina patens)].
Each plant has its natural place
in the shoreline environment.
Random planting will not work.
Get expert technical advice be-
fore attempting to plant along
the shoreline in your area.
Correcting shoreline ero-
sion sometimes requires
structural solutions, such
as constructing stone re-
vetments (ripraps). On
steep banks, build steps
to give you access to the
beach.
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Chapter 3


Protect Your Investment

        Buying or building a
        home is the biggest in-
       vestment most of us
       will ever make. It's not a
decision to leave to chance.
Everyone checks out what's
above the ground, but how
many check below it?
     It's important from both
an economic and environmen-
tal standpoint to find out the
type of soil on the site you are
planning to buy. Building on
the wrong soil can result in
costly problems such as
cracked foundations or flooded
basements. It can also lead to
water quality problems due to
erosion, flooding, and im-
proper filtration of sewage.
     There are hundreds of soil
types in the Chesapeake Bay
watershed. Each  soil has its
own characteristics caused by
parent material;  percentage of
sand, silt, or clay; slope; color;
permeability; depth to bedrock;
water table; and flooding. You
can find out about your soil by
checking the published soil
survey for your county. Soil
surveys contain aerial photo-
graphs showing the location
and extent of each kind of soil.
Soil surveys can  help you an-
swer the following questions:
  Will your basement stay dry
  or flood periodically?
  Can you use a septic system
  or will the effluent rise to the
  surface of the soil and
  present a health hazard?
  Is the lot subject to flooding
  or soil erosion?
     Soil surveys are published
by the U.S. Department of Agri-
culture's Soil Conservation
Service (SCS) in cooperation
with state agencies. Copies are
on file at your local SCS,
County Extension Service of-
fices, and at most major public
libraries.
Checklist tor House Hunters

     f you are house hunting,
     there are some visible
    signs of problem soil that
   you can look for. One easy
way  to identify wet soil is by
the kind of vegetation growing
on it. Common plants found in
wetlands are skunk cabbage,
rushes, sedges, cattails, and
alder. Trees that grow well in
wetlands include elm, pin oak,
red maple, willow, sweet gum,
or Southern red oak. Check
with your county government
to see if it has any regulations
concerning development in
wetland areas.
     If you walk across an area
and it seems soft and spongy,
especially when it has not
rained for a while, suspect poor
drainage. Have a soil scientist
investigate the site to verify the
degree of wetness and suggest
ways of dealing with the situa-
tion.
     Before you build, consider
carefully where you will place
your house. Nearly level areas
at the base of hills often tend to
be wet. Areas adjoining
streams flood. Ponds can form
in depressions in the ground.
Steep slopes can entail addi-
tional construction costs, and
you may face potentially seri-
ous surface runoff problems.
Concave areas and drainage
ways tend to be wet and flood
during  storms. You can save
yourself worry and expense by
looking for these problems be-
fore you buy, instead of paying
for them later.
There's more to soil than
meets the eye. The so/I
surveys for your county
will tell you about per-
meability, soil type, loca-
tion of the water table,
and flooding potential of
the property you're think-
ing about buying.
 CHECK
                  YOUR
                          SOIL

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Septic Systems

     ' ~ he soil characteristics
      that affect the function-
      ing of septic systems are
     permeability, depth,
water table, and slope. Proxim-
ity to streams, lakes, and the
Bay are also important consid-
erations when you are planning
to install a septic system.
     Permeability is the rate at
which water, or effluent, moves
through the soil. It is in-
fluenced by soil texture and
drainage. It's best to install sep-
tic systems in moderately per-
meable soil. Effluent moves too
quickly through sandy soil to
allow enough time for treat-
ment, causing groundwater or
well pollution. Effluent travels
too slowly through tight-
grained clays and may cause
plumbing backups or puddles
to form on the ground around
your home.
     A high water table or im-
permeable layer near the sur-
face are two factors that restrict
soil depth. If the soil is not suf-
ficiently deep, effluent from the
septic system can't be properly
absorbed and treated. Moder-
ately permeable soils should be
at least six feet deep above the
impermeable layer.
     Texture is determined by
the percentage of sand, silt, or
clay in the soil. Most soils are a
combination of these materials.
     Groundwater is the level
to which the water rises in an
excavated pit or hole. Ground-
water levels can vary drastically
from season to season. That's
why health agencies require
wet weather "perk" tests. They
test soil percolation rates dur-
ing the time of year when the
ground is most saturated. If the
perk rate is good then, your
septic system should work well
year round.
     Steep slopes can cause
construction and maintenance
problems for septic systems.
Controlling the downward flow
of effluent is difficult because
the effluent may move through
the soil so rapidly that it col-
lects in messy wet spots at the
base of the slope. If the effluent
should hit a dense layer of clay
or rock in a slope, it will be
forced to the surface and run
down the face of the slope un-
filtered.
     Government regulations
require that septic absorption
areas be installed at a sufficient
distance from streams, lakes,
drainage ditches, flood plains,
and the Bay. By placing the
system far enough away from
Bay waterways, you help en-
sure that the effluent won't
have a chance to move side-
ways through the soil, causing
health and pollution problems.


Your house may not sit on top of a hill,
but to ovoid drainage problems, make
sure the ground is graded away from
the house at a slope of one percent or
more on all sides.
           Qne way you can avoid drainage problems
           in and around your home is to use this
           checklist while house hunting. By consid-
           •ing these factors before you buy or build,
you will save yourself time and money.
     Here are some things you should look for:
  Cracked basement or foundation
  Water stains on basement walls
  Standing water in basement
  Bright green spots in lawn (septic system malfunc-
  tion)
  Sewage odor in basement
  Puddles of effluent on lawn
  Home site on same elevation as adjoining stream or
  river
  Wetland vegetation or conditions
  Soft, spongy ground
  Steep slopes
  Drainage ways
  Depressions in the soil surface

  CHECK
                  YOUR
                       SOIL

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Chapter 4
Rainy Day Blues

         How rain water moves
         over and through the
         ground is important
         :o those of us who
have experienced flooded
basements, wet yards, or bro-
ken septic systems. Solving the
problems associated with sur-
face water runoff and poorly
drained soil is also important to
improving the health of the
Chesapeake Bay.
     Rain from roofs and
driveways runs off, often erod-
ing yards and destroying
plants. Much of the soil washed
off vacant lots and lawns is car-
ried into  streams and eventu-
ally reaches the Bay. This sedi-
ment smothers fish and
shellfish. Nutrients, such as ni-
trogen and phosphorus from
fertilizer in runoff, can cause
excessive algae growth, using
up oxygen needed by the Bay's
aquatic life. This runoff may
also contain pesticides, oil, an-
tifreeze, and other substances
toxic to life in the Bay.
     Pollution also occurs
when the soil is too wet to filter
sewage outflow. Effluent can
percolate into the groundwater
without proper filtration, or it
can rise to the surface and be  f
carried into streams and drain-  S
age ways.
Dealing with Surface Runoff

           On large tracts of
           land, controlling
           surface water flow
    _   vjtorm water man-
agement) is the developer's re-
sponsibility. There are inex-
pensive ways you can control
excess runoff created by patios,
driveways, sidewalks, and
swimming pools. Whatever the
soil drainage condition in your
neighborhood, you can use
swales, berms, and basins to
control runoff on your prop-
erty, reduce its speed, and in-
crease the time over which the
runoff is released. For example,
land immediately adjacent to
your house needs to have a
              downhill slope so that water
              does not seep through the
              foundation. Once the water has
              been carried ten feet from the
              house, you should regrade the
              surface so that runoff is re-
              leased gradually.
                   Where drainage is good or
              where infiltration devices are
              in use, you can regrade the
              land to create a basin, which
              holds all runoff and allows it to
              infiltrate the soil over a longer
              period of time. The effective-
              ness of a basin depends on the
              soil's ability to absorb and filter
              the surface water. Soils with
              less than two feet of depth to
              bedrock or one foot of depth to
              a seasonally high water table,
              soil having a high clay content
              or a clay hardpan beneath the
              surface, and low-lying soil that
              receives runoff from a large
              land area may not have suffi-
              cient infiltration capacity.
              When you try to retain runoff in
              these situations, the soil will
              rapidly become saturated, and
              rainfall that should  filter down
through the soil will collect on
the surface and either create
health, safety, and use prob-
lems or move across the sur-
face as excess runoff.
     Be on the lookout for
small wet patches in your yard.
These wet spots mean that the
soil around your house has set-
tled and surface water is  col-
lecting on the ground. Plant
growth is usually poor in these
areas and erosion often occurs.
Filling these pockets with  top-
soil and seeding them with
grass will usually solve the
problem by letting water flow
on its natural path.
     In some instances, you
may be able to correct an exist-
ing wet soil problem by creat-
ing a system of berms and
swales around your yard.
When it's not feasible to avoid
a wet area, you may be able to
move it to a less used area of
the yard (around shrubs or
trees, for example) by installing
a swale to carry the water
across the yard. Plant the  new
                                                                                                 Rainwater runs downhill
                                                                                                 - some filtering through
                                                                                                 the soil, some running di-
                                                                                                 rectly into nearby
                                                                                                 streams. By encouraging
                                                                                                 rainwater to move slowly
                                                                                                 across the soil so most
                                                                                                 of it filters into the
                                                                                                 ground, you will help pre-
                                                                                                 vent erosion problems.
                      =     ——
                                                —
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  D
R
N
                                                                                                                   E

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wet area with the kinds of trees
and shrubs that thrive in wet
soils. There are some instances
where a system of swales will
not solve your drainage prob-
lem, and you will have to con-
sider installing a subsurface
drainage system.

Installing Infiltration Devices

     ~  he installation of var-
      ious infiltration devices
     can enhance infiltration
     even on sites with well-
drained soils. It is important to
remember that surface runoff
cannot infiltrate soils that are at
or past their saturation point
(by virtue of depth to water
table or bedrock), contain a
high percentage of clay, or rest
on a clay hardpan. Under these
conditions, surface runoff can-
not infiltrate the soil even with
an infiltration device.
     Using berms and swales,
you can speed site infiltration
by channeling surface runoff
into a gravel-filled seepage pit,
a Dutch drain  (see illustration),
or a gravel-lined detention
basin. You can also spread run-
off over the land surface by
using a series of terraces or
runoff spreaders, which pro-
motes greater infiltration by
slowly spreading runoff in a
fanshaped pattern across a ve-
getated land surface. Seepage
pits, gravel-lined recharge
basins, and terraces lose their
effectiveness as infiltration de-
vices when the land surface is
clogged with clay, silt, or Fine
sand particles. Infiltration de-
vices for large parcels of land
are often constructed along
with sediment traps, basins, or
grassed sediment filters. These
traps and filters remove fine
particles from runoff before
they reach the infiltration  de-
vice. Sediment traps are less
critical for most residential lots;
most homeowners can use a
system of swales or basins
leading to the infiltration
device as a sediment filter.
 Dutch drains carry water from rain-
 spouts into the soil, where it gradually
 filters into the ground.
WHAT YOU
CAN DO
     m here are many ways you can improve drainage
   •  in your yard. Most of these suggestions are in-
  •  expensive, practical, and easy to implement.
 . •  You can reduce surface runoff if you:
  Install gravel trenches along driveways or patios to
  collect water and allow it to filter into the soil
  (trenches should be at least 12 inches wide and 3
  feet deep)
  Resod bare patches in your lawn as soon as possi-
  ble to avoid erosion
  Grade all areas away from your house at a slope of
  one percent or more
  Use a grass swale (a low area in the lawn) to move
  water from one area to another*
  Plant shrubs and trees to promote infiltration (see
  chapter on landscaping)
"Low ridges, or "berms, " may be used to direct water into
and through swales. Basins built to gather and hold runoff
can have infiltration devices to handle exceptionally
heavy runoff, but their main purpose is to keep runoff away
from the site and help the water filter into the underlying
soil. Other basins are designed to slow the rate of runoff
and increase the time between rainfall and discharge of
surface runoff into a stream. These basins usually contain a
temporary pool of water that dissipates as the runoff is re-
leased gradually through an outlet device.

                                                                                                                     E

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Chapter 5


How Well Does Your Septic
System Work?

         ^' early 24 percent of
         all homes in the
         United States are
        served by septic sys-
tems. Thirty percent of all
homeowners in the Chesa-
peake Bay drainage basin rely
on septic systems to treat and
dispose of household wastewa-
ter. Because so much has been
said recently about water qual-
ity, especially in the Bay area,
you might wonder how envi-
ronmentally acceptable septic
systems really are.
     Years of experience have
proven that properly designed,
installed, and maintained sep-
tic systems have little adverse
effect on the environment.
Government regulations ensure
that septic systems conform to
certain standards, and a repu-
table contractor can make sure
your system will be properly
installed; As a homeowner, you
have a major influence on how
well your septic system works.

How Septic Systems
Function

        Ceptic systems have two
       key components—a
       septic tank and a soil
 \^absorption system. The
septic tank is a container,
usually prefabricated from con-
crete according to a relatively
standardized design. It receives
wastewater from your
bathroom, kitchen, and
laundry room, allowing the
heavy solid particles to settle
and light materials to  float to
the surface of the tank. These
materials become  sludge and
scum (see diagram). Bacteria in
the wastewater feed on the
sludge and liquify the waste
products.
     This process requires
time. To permit enough time
for settling and flotation, regu-
lations require that septic tanks
be sized according to  the ex-
pected daily flow of wastewater
from your home.
                               — ^
                                                                       To Drainfield
                                                                  Septic tanks are made of
                                                                  steel or concrete and
                                                                  must be large enough to
                                                                  hold one day's flow of
                                                                  wastewater from your
                                                                  home. Solids settle to the
                                                                  bottom, light materials
                                                                  float on the surface, and
                                                                  only the wastewater fil-
                                                                  ters out into the
                                                                  drainfield.
     The soil absorption sys-
tem (drainfield) consists of a
distribution box, perforated
distribution lines made of tile,
and an area of soil. The soil ab-
sorption system receives
wastewater from the septic
tank and removes harmful, dis-
ease-causing microorganisms,
organics, and nutrients. For this
part of the system to function
properly, it must be con-
structed carefully on suitable
soil.
     The soil also needs time
to filter out these harmful ma-
terials from the wastewater.
"Suitable soils" do not include
sand (which permits wastewa-
ter to pass through too fast) or
clay (which accepts only small
amounts of wastewater). State
and local regulations that de-
termine what constitutes suit-
able  soil have been developed
after careful consideration of
many factors that affect a soil's
ability to adequately treat do-
mestic wastewater.
WHAT YOU CAN DO
            Maintenance is the single most important
           consideration in making sure a septic
           lystem will work well over a long period
          .1 time. Too often homeowners forget that
whatever goes down the drain or toilet ultimately ei-
ther finds its way into the soil or remains in the septic
tank until it is pumped out. Use common sense and
you should have few problems with your septic sys-
tem.
    The following maintenance practices will keep
your system  running smoothly:
  Know the location of all components of your septic
  system; keep heavy vehicles away from the system
  Don't plant trees or shrubs near drain tiles since
  their roots can clog drain lines
  Dispose of household chemicals properly—do not
  pour them down the toilet or drain; they can de-
  stroy the bacteria in the septic tank
  Distribute your laundry chores throughout the
  week to avoid overloading the system on any given
  day
  Don't use garbage disposals; they contribute un-
  necessary solids and grease to your septic system
  Conserve water whenever and wherever possible
  Don't use toilets  as trash cans
  Monitor your septic tank yearly and have a reputa-
  ble contractor remove sludge and scum every three
  to five years. (This helps ensure that there is
  enough space in the tank for wastewater, and pre-
  vents solids from escaping into the absorption sys-
  tem.)
                   P                      C
                              SYSTEMS

-------
Why Worry?

       he threat of disease is a
      key problem with treat-
      ing human wastewater.
  •  The epidemics that killed
millions of people in the Middle
Ages were caused by mixing of
human waste with drinking
water supplies. Domestic
wastewater contains bacteria
and viruses that cause dysen-
tery, hepatitis, and typhoid
fever. To protect your health,
it's important to exclude these
organisms from both surface
and groundwater. That is why
sewage treatment plants use
chlorine and other biocides
(substances destructive to
many organisms). Fortunately,
soil and soil bacteria can effec-
tively remove pathogenic (dis-
ease-causing) microorganisms
from wastewater treated in a
properly functioning septic sys-
tem.
     Nutrients such as nitrogen
and phosphorus, contained in
domestic wastewater, can
cause both health and nui-
sance problems  if allowed to
reach surface or groundwater
supplies. Nitrogen in its nitrate
form poses the most significant
threat to our health. When in-
gested by infants, nitrate can
interfere with the blood's abil-
ity to carry oxygen, causing
"blue baby" syndrome. Nitro-
gen carried in septic tank
wastewater is usually in the
form of ammonia. This ammo-
nia is readily transformed into
nitrate, which can easily be-
come part of ground and sur-
face water supplies.
     Nutrients also fuel the
growth of algae and are re-
sponsible for the subsequent
loss of oxygen, causing serious
problems for the Bay. The EPA
study confirmed that excessive
nutrients are responsible for
serious water quality problems
in the Bay.
System Failures

          Design, construction,
          or maintenance
         problems are usually
         responsible for septic
systems that are not working
well. The principal signs of de-
sign problems are easy to de-
tect—effluent rising to the
ground or drains and toilets
that operate sluggishly or not at
all. These problems occur be-
cause the drainfield is either
too small or is located on the
wrong kind of soil.
     Before a septic system is
built, most health agencies re-
quire a "perk" (percolation) test
to determine how fast the soil
absorbs water. Soil examina-
tion by a professional soil sci-
entist can provide an even
more reliable assessment of
the capacity of soil to accept
wastewater. When designing a
system, your builder should
check the water table level to
be sure it is at least four feet
below the septic drainfield.
     Construction problems
and failures include tile laid on
improper grades, incorrect
joints and alignments between
system components, and tiles
broken or crushed during the
building process.
The drainfield, or absorp-
tion system, is critical to
how well your septic sys-
tem functions. Perforated
tile pipes must be laid in
suitable soil, away from
tree roots and manmade
structures. The drainfield
must be a large enough
area to absorb your
home's daily wastewater
 SEPTIC
                              SYSTEMS

-------
Chapter 6
Help Prevent Erosion

         jffost people in the
       ft Chesapeake Bay
           drainage basin live
           in cities and subur-
ban areas. These areas are
characterized by acres of hard
surfaces—roads, rooftops, and
parking lots. In contrast to for-
ests and fields, which allow
rainwater to soak in, these im-
permeable surfaces force more
and more rainwater to run off.
Every storm increases the vol-
ume and velocity of rainwater
runoff. Cities experience nine
times more runoff than wooded
areas, causing flooding, topsoil
and streambank erosion, and
choked waterways.
     Of course, we can't live
without driveways, sidewalks,
or patios. But water from paved
surfaces and rooftops can de-
grade nearby streams. The
stream may be out of sight, but
underground storm drains
often carry rainwater runoff
from the impervious surfaces
surrounding your home di-
rectly into a nearby stream. By
using paving surfaces that
allow rainwater to soak into the
ground, you can reduce exces-
sive rainwater runoff and help
prevent erosion.

Permeable Paving Surfaces

        paving surface that
         allows water to soak
       I  in may seem impos-
         sible, but there are
many materials that provide
the durability of concrete while
allowing rainwater to filter
down into the ground. If you
are planning a new patio, walk-
way, or driveway, and your
home site has favorable soil
conditions,  there are several at-
tractive alternatives to con-
crete.
     Wood  decks, usually in-
stalled for their functional good
looks, can serve  as a form of
porous pavement. Redwood
and treated Southern pine (the
two most commonly used deck
materials in this region) are as
 durable as most other paving
 surfaces. Decking allows rain-
 water to soak into the ground
 beneath it, and the space be-
 tween the planks provides
 ample room for precipitation to
 drain directly onto the soil sur-
 face. As long as minimal air
 space is maintained between
 the soil surface and the deck-
 ing, wood rot can be mini-
 mized.
      If you are installing a new
 patio or rebuilding a crumbling
 sidewalk, you don't need to use
 the typical slab concrete. Using
 bricks, interlocking pavers, or
 flat stones (flagstone, blue-
 stone, or granite), you can con-
 struct an attractive, durable
 walkway. If placed on well
 drained soil or on a sand or
 gravel bed, these modular
 pavers allow rainwater infiltra-
 tion. Though chemicals are
 sometimes used to control
 weeds growing in the joints be-
 tween the pavers,  Corsican
 mint or moss can crowd out
 weeds and add beauty
 to the paved area.




 Alt modular paving
 materials require an
 adequate sub-base
 to support the
 weight of cars
 and allow for
 adequate soil
 drainage.
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    Pre-cast concrete lattice
pavers also rest on a bed of
sand and gravel and allow rain
to soak slowly into the ground.
These kinds of paving materials
can be used wherever natural
soil drainage is good and there
are no problems with either
bedrock near the surface or
seasonal high water. Lattice
pavers won't work on  clay or
other soils that are already sat-
urated with water.
    Significant strides have
been made in developing
porous asphalt pavement in the
last three decades. This mate-
rial is similar to conventional
asphalt in durability, but it con-
tains a much smaller percent-
age of very fine particles. As a
result, the asphalt allows water
to soak through to the  base
material and into the soil
below. Almost twice as much
porous asphalt must be applied
to achieve the same strength as
conventional asphalt. The fin-
ished surface must be  pro-
tected from excess silt and fine
sand so that its pores don't be-
come clogged. You can use
porous asphalt on your new
driveway or encourage its use
on streets and parking lots  in
your community.

Diverting Rain from Paved
Surfaces

      or many years, pave-
 Lf ment construction stan-
      dards called for any rain
     reaching a paved surface
to be controlled and directed
by a system of pavement and
pipe drains. Roof downspouts
spill onto driveways that are
graded down to street gutters,
which, in turn, lead to storm-
drains that dump the accumu-
lated rainwater directly into
streams. The destructive tor-
rents of this collected rain have
helped erode countless stream-
banks. In some urban areas,
storm drains and sanitary
sewers are combined, which
means that after a storm, un-
treated sewage could spill di-
rectly into your neighborhood
creek.
    In places with good soil
drainage you can capture,
spread, and infiltrate rainwater
runoff from paved areas and
roofs to minimize the erosive
force of the flowing water.
Though many sidewalks and
driveways are appropriately
graded to spread runoff onto
lawn areas where it can soak
in, steep slopes, poor grading,
or concentrated flow from
downspouts can sometimes
cause destructive and unsightly
erosion. In these cases, stabi-
lizing the eroding area where
runoff leaves the pavement can
dissipate the water's erosive
force and allow infiltration.
Dense vegetation, mulch (pos-
sibly held in place by nylon
netting), or gravel can serve
this purpose.
    If the volume of runoff
can't be effectively controlled,
the runoff can be captured as it
leaves the paved surface. The
water can be channeled and
spread to either a low-lying
grassy area or a series of ter-
races,  both of which allow
gradual absorption into the
soil. In more severe cases,
gravel-filled seepage pits along
the pavement's edge or Dutch
drains can be used to take in
large volumes of runoff and en-
courage infiltration.
          triStSSiA
WHAT YOU

CAN DO

      hink about
   m  the ultimate
  m destination of
  • rainwater. Con-
sider the erosive
force of runoff from
the paved surfaces
that are part of our
daily lives. When
you take steps to
channel that runoff
into areas where it
can filter slowly
through the soil in-
stead of running di-
rectly into storm-
drains or streams,
you are helping to
protect the  Bay.
  Use wood deck-
  ing, bricks,  or in-
  terlocking stones
  for walkways and
  patios
B Encourage the use
  of porous asphalt
  in your commu-
  nity
*J Divert rain  from
  paved surfaces
  onto grass to per-
  mit gradual ab-
  sorption
                                                           Modular paving materials
                                                           come in many styles and
                                                           are made of many mate-
                                                           rials. Some allow turf
                                                           growth on or through the
                                                           paver. All modular pavers
                                                           improve the infiltration ca-
                                                           pacity of paved surfaces.
                                                HIIJ,,,
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                                    i /
                E
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                                                                          E
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Chapter 7
Where Does the Rain Go?

           probably don't re-
        alize that the rain fall-
      ing on homes, lawns and
     driveways in 60 percent
of Virginia, 90  percent of Mary-
land, 50 percent of Pennsylva-
nia, and 30 percent of Dela-
ware eventually finds its way
into the Chesapeake Bay, car-
rying our pollution with it.
Landscaping your property is
one way to help reduce the er-
osive force of all this runoff.
     What you do with and on
your land directly affects the
quality of the Chesapeake Bay.
You and your neighbors can
unintentionally change the vol-
ume, velocity,  and timing of
the surface runoff that flows
from your property, and by
your everyday actions you can
add to the amount of toxic
chemicals and nutrients that
flow into the Bay. As the vol-
ume of runoff  increases, so
does the danger of surface
flooding. Runoff also increases
soil and channel erosion and
delivers more sediment to the
Bay.

Protect Your Property,
Protect the Bay

    { everyone followed a few
    simple procedures, they
   could retain more rainwater
   on their property, replenish
groundwater supplies, reduce
their reliance on household
chemicals and fertilizer, and
improve the quality of the
Chesapeake Bay.
     Planting trees is one way
you can protect your land and
the Bay from the damage
caused by excessive runoff and
erosion. We all appreciate trees
for their beauty and the shade
they provide, but few of us re-
alize that trees help reduce
runoff and minimize erosion.
Planting shrubs, trees, and
ground cover on your property
—landscaping—has definite
environmental benefits, and it
enhances the  appearance and
value of your property. Plants
                                  w
                                                                           Unlandscaped property
                                                                           causes more rainwater
                                                                           runoff, increases soil and
                                                                           channel erosion, and de-
                                                                           livers unnecessary sedi-
                                                                           ment to the Bay.
                                                                           After

                                                                           Landscaping your yard re-
                                                                           duces the erosive force of
                                                                           rainwater runoff and in-
                                                                           creases the value of your
                                                                           home. By planting trees,
                                                                           shrubs, and ground
                                                                           cover, you encourage ex-
                                                                           cess rainwater to filter
                                                                           slowly into trie soil in-
                                                                       \ \  stead of flowing directly
                                                                     (jr.' t  intostormdrainsor
                                                                     ,c,' /  nearby streams. Choos-
                                                                           ing trees and plants that
                                                                           are appropriate for your
                                                                           soil and growing condi-
                                                                           tions will ensure that
                                                                           you'll have a beautiful
                                                                           yard.
  L
N
D
S
N

-------
and trees can create "outdoor
rooms" for you and your family
to work and play in. These
plants can block cold winter
winds and provide shade in
summer.
     Well planned landscaping
can reduce heating and cooling
costs for your house by as
much as 30 percent. New
shrubs and trees may attract
birds and wildlife. Trees,
shrubs, and ground cover also
require less maintenance than
grass. Because trees and
shrubs require less fertilizer
and fewer herbicides than
grass, the chances of polluting
the Bay are lessened. By
choosing the appropriate trees
and shrubs for your yard, you
contribute directly to Bay
cleanup efforts.

Choosing Appropriate
Plants

       11 plants require differ-
        ent kinds of soil, nu-
        trients, and exposure
         to the sun to flourish.
All landscapes have a set of
growing conditions, including
soil properties, air temperature,
moisture, and length of expo-
sure to the sun. The most com-
mon mistake people make
when landscaping their yards is
to buy plants that need much
more or far less moisture than
the soil provides. Plants that
need a lot of water will not
grow well on dry sites unless
you supply the water they
need. Plants with high nutrient
requirements will only grow in
poor soils if you apply fertilizer.
Plants susceptible to insect and
disease problems will flourish
only when these pests are con-
trolled by some biological,
chemical, or mechanical
means. By choosing plants ap-
propriate to your yard, you
help reduce these potential
problems.
     Fortunately, nature has
given us a partial solution to
the problem of plant selection.
Over time, plants native to a
particular locale have adapted
to whatever growing conditions
they encounter. Plants that
grow near the shore have
adapted themselves to the rela-
tively high salt content of the
air and/or soil moisture
through a variety of physiologi-
cal mechanisms. Plants that
grow naturally in the forests of
the Chesapeake Bay region are
bothered less by common dis-
ease and insect problems than
are plants introduced from
other areas. Ask a competent,
professional nursery to help
you select plants, trees, and
shrubs appropriate for your
yard and soil type.
     Some introduced plants,
such as bamboo and multiflora
roses, grow faster than plants
native to the Bay area. These
                                         plants spread quickly and can
                                         become a nuisance. Introduc-
                                         ing new plants often entails
                                         more watering or chemical
                                         spraying. One way to avoid
                                         these potential problems is to
                                         select native plants, those pre-
                                         adapted to the growing condi-
                                         tions in your neighborhood.
                                                              WHAT YOU
                                                              CAN DO

                                                                     y following
                                                                M^g these few
                                                                     simple guide-
                                                               •i^rlines, you can
                                                              make your home
                                                              more attractive and
                                                              help prevent erosion:
                                                                Landscape your
                                                                yard to minimize
                                                                rainwater runoff
                                                                Preserve the es-
                                                                tablished trees in
                                                                your neighbor-
                                                                hood, which help
                                                                minimize the
                                                                damage caused by
                                                                surface runoff
                                                                Choose the appro-
                                                                priate plants,
                                                                shrubs, and trees
                                                                for the soil in your
                                                                yard; don't select
                                                                plants that need
                                                                lots of watering
                                                                (which increases
                                                                surface runoff)
                                                                Consult your local
                                                                nursery for advice
                                                                on which plants,
                                                                shrubs, and trees
                                                                will grow well in
                                                                your yard
                                                                                   •l\   m
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                                                                                        S\\ if*!""" n "v»^_
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  L
N
D
              S
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Chapter 8
Healthy Lawns
       Jj ost people want a
      Xf  dense, healthy
          lawn. A healthy
          lawn not only
makes your home more attrac-
tive and valuable, but it also
has important environmental
benefits.  When coupled with
trees, shrubs, and groundcover,
your lawn can help prevent er-
osion, moderate summer heat,
and act as a filter for rainwater
from roofs, downspouts, and
driveways. A healthy lawn also
benefits the soil by adding or-
ganic matter to improve soil
structure and infiltration. Your
local stream and ultimately the
Bay will benefit from the re-
duced runoff and filtering ca-
pacity provided by your lawn
and by landscaping.
     It is estimated that there
are 20 million acres  of lawn in
the United States. If well-man-
aged and planted with shrubs
and groundcover, these acres
can be part of a healthy envi-
ronment; if fertilizers and pes-
ticides are used indiscrimina-
tely, lawns can be a source of
pollution. The basic premise of
environmentally sound turf-
grass management is that a vig-
orous stand of grass will out-
compete most weeds and be
able to withstand damage from
fungus and insects.
Test Your Soil
       o help ensure you'll
      have a healthy lawn, test
     your soil before seeding
    or applying fertilizers. Call
your county Cooperative Ex-
tension Service for assistance,
or purchase a soil test kit at
your local garden store. The re-
sults of the soil test will tell you
how much fertilizer and lime
your soil requires. Lawns in the
Chesapeake Bay region often
need to be tested for organic
matter, pH and soluble salts.
The results of these tests can
suggest additional corrective
measures that will help you
avoid future problems. Com-
post, if mixed into the soil, can
provide some of the organic
matter and nutrients your soil
needs.

Fertilizing the Lawn

       he nutrients in fertil-
      izers can contribute to
     the pollution problems in
    the Chesapeake Bay.
That's why it's important to
apply fertilizer according to in-
structions—at the proper time
and rate—to prevent additional
water quality problems. Avoid
getting fertilizer on sidewalks
and driveways, where it can
easily be v.-ashed into storm
drains and, eventually, into the
Bay.
    Soil tests will show how
much lime, phosphorus, and
potassium your fertilizer
should contain. Nitrogen, a
vital nutrient,  can also be ap-
plied at the right time and in
the right amounts. The recom-
mended nitrogen rates for your
area are available from your
county Cooperative Extension
Service.
    The numbers on a bag of
fertilizer refer to the percent-
ages of plant nutrients—nitro-
gen, phosphates, and potash—
in the material. In a 100-pound
bag of a 5-10-10 mixture, for
instance, there would be 5 per-
cent (5 pounds) nitrogen, 10
percent phosphate, and 10 per-
cent potash.
    The wrong amount of fer-
tilizer applied at the wrong time
can cause disease and weed
problems, poor root growth, or
excessive top growth. Incorrect
fertilization can reduce your
lawn's ability to withstand ex-
tremes of temperature and
moisture. Use fertilizer specifi-
cally formulated for lawns. Gar-
den fertilizers will generally not
be suitable for your lawn.

Lawn Pests


     I oth weeds and insects
  LJ are considered by most
       homeowners to be
 m^  harmful to the lawn. But
90 percent of the insects in
your lawn are not harmful.
Even a healthy lawn will have
some weeds, which should not
be a problem unless the turf
becomes weakened and thin.
For example, sheep sorrel is an
indicator that the soil pH needs
adjusting. Crabgrass can be ef-
fectively controlled with a pre-
emergence herbicide.
     Study your lawn before
applying any herbicides or
insecticides. If you suspect a
problem, ask your cooperative
extension agent to help you
identify the problem and deter-
mine whether special treat-
ment is necessary. The pre-
                                                                                                 Applying the proper
                                                                                                 amount of fertilizer at the
                                                                                                 proper time will help en-
                                                                                                 sure a healthy lawn. Ex-
                                                                                                 perts recommend that
                                                                                                 fertilizer be applied three
                                                                                                 times a year to already
                                                                                                 established lawns. A soil
                                                                                                 test will tell you the ap-
                                                                                                 propriate combination of
                                                                                                 nutrients to use.
11f///c(
  L
                         W
                     N
        S

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                                Mow your lawn to the proper height,
                                depending on the type of grass you
                                have.
ferred long-term strategy for a
healthy lawn includes using
sound management tech-
niques, especially mowing and
fertilization. Some aspects of
Integrated Pest Management
(1PM), especially hand weed-
ing, can also help. See page 21
for more information on IPM.
     Occasionally, certain in-
sect activity may reach a level
where the use of an insecticide
is considered. Careful spot ap-
plication of insecticides may be
necessary when high popula-
tions are discovered, if other
control methods are not effec-
tive. Choose an insecticide that
is least harmful to other crea-
tures.

Seed 01 Sod?


     /f you are creating a new
    lawn, there are several
 j  factors to consider when
   deciding whether to use
seed or sod. Seeding is initially
less expensive, but takes longer
to grow and may require  weed
control measures. Sodding pro-
vides immediate erosion con-
trol and can be used at least a
month sooner than a seeded
area. Whatever you choose,
have the type of grass approved
by your state's Department of
Agriculture. For a description of
the types of grasses recom-
mended for your area, talk to
your county Cooperative Ex-
tension Service. Tall fescue va-
rieties are more drought- and
pest-resistant and are fre-
quently recommended.
     The best time to seed is
from August 15 to September
30. During this time, there is
less competition from weeds,
and the early critical seeding
stage misses the really  hot
weather. If you seed your lawn
in early September and man-
age it properly, the grass will
develop a root system and suf-
ficient top growth to survive the
winter and grow vigorously the
following spring. Many of the
weeds that germinate in fall
seedings will be killed by the
first hard frost.  The next best
time for seeding lawn grasses,
and usually a poor second
choice, is from February 15 to
March 31.

Watering and Mowing
          Overwatering and
          mowing too closely
          are the most com-
          mon mistake we
make with our lawns. Once a
lawn is established, water it
only during very dry periods,
giving it only as much water as
the soil can absorb. Moisten
the soil to a depth of four to six
inches, which usually means
using about an inch of water.
Avoid frequent shallow water-
ings on established turf; it
causes shallow rooting, invites
crabgrass invasion, and en-
courages disease.
     Mowing is also crucial to
the health of your lawn. Ac-
cording to turf specialists, the
mowing height is probably the
single most important factor in
the formation of healthy turf.
Bluegrass or fescue should be
from two to four inches in
height and cut frequently
enough that no more than a
third of the leaf area is re-
moved. Bermudagrass and zoy-
siagrass should be mowed
when they reach a height of
one-half to one inch.
A Ward About Lawn Services


       awn services are an in-
      creasingly popular alter-
      native for lawn mainte-
 ••  nance. You should know
that some companies operate
on a mass-production basis,
with a fixed number of treat-
ments a year in which cus-
tomers are given a standard
mixture of fertilizer and pesti-
cides  to deal with problems
that might occur. You want a
lawn company that will custo-
mize its service to your lawn's
needs. Many of the lawn com-
panies follow programs that
have been prescribed by turf-
grass specialists and use prod-
ucts that you can buy and
apply yourself. Misuse of these
chemicals can pose health risks
to people, pets, and wildlife ar-
ound your home. Herbicide
misuse can cause damage to
susceptible plants.
    You need to be sure the
company you choose  does a
soil test before applying any
fertilizer or pesticides. Some
people are very concerned
about the pesticides, used on
lawps and shrubs. Before sign-
ing a lawn care contract, make
sure the company is reputable,
tailors its chemical use to spe-
cific lawn needs, notifies you
about the pesticides they are
using, gives you*a copy of the
label,  and has adequately
trained personnel.
              WHAT YOU
              CAN DO

                    awns benefit
                    the environ-
                   ment and add
              •B to the value
              and beauty of your
              home. Keep these
              things in mind when
              planning and main-
              taining your yard:
              • Plant the right
                grass for your
                locale.
              • Test your soil once
                per year.
              • Use the right fer-
                tilizer at the right
                time.
              • Don't overwater
                your lawn.
              • Mow to the proper
                height—this is
                critical to the
                health of your
                lawn.
              • Try Integrated
                Pest Management
                to control weeds
                and insects (see
                page 21).
              • Consider ground-
                cover plants as
                well as grass.
'^  ,\  »,'
 s\ '<*«.•«'
   0 ?Mf

   1
                                        P*
                               One inch of water in dry
                               weather will wet the so/I
                               to a depth of four to six
                               inches.
 L
                        W
                     N
                               S

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Chapter 9
Watch Your Garden Grow

            any of us enjoy
           growing our own
           vegetables, fruits,
          flowers, and herbs.
By using the right gardening
techniques, you too can pro-
duce plants to be proud of
while preserving the soil and its
fertility, enhancing the absorp-
tion of rainfall, and protecting
local streams from sediments
and chemicals.
     To get the most out of
your garden, it's important to
pick the right spot for planting.
Choose a sunny location with
good natural drainage. Plant
your garden on a fairly level
site-, avoid sloping areas and
drainage channels, which let
topsoil wash away during
heavy rains.

Dealing With Slopes

    ff your garden is located on
    a slope, you can use the
   same techniques that
   farmers use on hilly fields to
ensure good crops. Plant across
the slope, not up and down the
hill. This way, each row acts
like a ridge (what farmers call
contour planting) to trap rain-
fall. Contour planting prevents
soil and plant nutrients from
washing downhill. On long
slopes, it's a good idea to leave
strips of grass that also run per-
pendicular  to the slope. This
helps keep  the rainwater and
soil where it belongs by forcing
runoff to  slow down and soak
in. These grass strips should be
wide enough to allow easy ac-
cess to your plants and vegeta-
bles.
     Flower beds can be
planted on steep slopes to
beautify the landscape and sta-
bilize the soil. Since the beds
are usually permanent, you
may want to construct retain-
ing walls to hold the hillside in
place and add to the appear-
ance of your home. On longer
slopes, the hillside can be
stepped, or terraced, with a
garden strip planted on each
level area. Whether a series of
retaining walls is used or not
depends on how steep your
slope is. On moderate slopes,
the area between each level
terrace should be a short, rela-
tively steep slope. Such ter-
race/slopes must be densely
planted with grass or other
plants to stabilize the soil.

Enhancing Fertility

       Though there are many
      ways to make a garden
     more productive, meet-
     ing the nutrient needs of
the plants in your particular
plot is the most important con-
sideration. Many garden soils
can benefit from the addition of
organic matter and other nu-
trients. Composted vegetable
scraps, grass cuttings, and
leaves are excellent sources of
both, and the more that goes in
your compost pile, the less that
goes in the already over-
crowded landfill. Mulching can
also add nutrients, make the
soil more workable, aid  rain-
water penetration, and improve
the moisture-retaining capacity
of the soil near plant roots.
     You should also mulch to
minimize bare, exposed soil in
your garden. Unprotected
ground loses nutrients and
needed topsoil much more
quickly than planted soil. Bare
soil places added stress on
nearby plants by expanding
temperature extremes and re-
ducing available soil moisture.
In addition to mulching, con-
sider closer plantings of differ-
ent, but compatible, plant spe-
cies to make the most out of
your working garden area.
     Winter cover crops are
highly recommended for vege-
table plots. Rye, barley, and
wheat are suitable for fall
planting (two to three pounds
of seed per 1000 square feet of
ground). The cover crop holds
the soil  during the winter and
adds organic matter to the soil
when it is turned under the fol-
lowing spring. You can also
plant shrubs or small trees as
windbreaks around the garden
to control wind erosion in
sandy areas and to further pro-
tect bare soil from exposure to
the elements.
       WHAT TO DO ABOUT BUGS

                Kour vegetable garden can suffer severe
               damage from insects and diseases. The fol-
              lowing preventive measures lessen the likeli-
              ood that serious problems will develop:
         Rotate crops so that the same or a related crop does
         not occupy the same area every year. Repeated
         plantings encourage insect infestation and the
         buildup of soil diseases.
         Keep old sacks, baskets,  decaying vegetables and
         other rubbish that may harbor insects and disease
         out of garden.
         Time plantings to avoid peak of insect infestations.
         For example, plant squash as early as possible to
         avoid borers that lay eggs in July. If you're going to
         plant a second squash crop, plant after mid-July to
         avoid  the borers. Keep a record of the date insect
         problems occur for future reference.
         Inspect plants for egg clusters, bean beetles, cater-
         pillars, and other insects  early each morning. Hand
         pick such pests and destroy them. The squash
         borer can sometimes be cut out of the stems with a
         sharp  knife, providing you cut parallel to the stem
         and no more than  halfway through
         Dislodge pests with a spray of water. This works
         with aphids, red spider mites, and mealybugs.
         Construct insect barriers: Place screens over the
         plants; wrap aluminum foil around the plant base
         to limit cutworm damage.
       -. If you're having slug problems, place flat boards
         next to the plants. After the slugs crawl under the
         boards to escape sunlight, lift the  boards and de-
         stroy the slugs.
                                         Mulch cuts down on
                                         weeds and the need for
                                         water. Mulch can be
                                         straw, grass clippings,
                                         wood chips, leaves, or
                              R
            D
E
N
N

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          Gardening on slopes can
          be a problem Create
          contours with plants in
          rows perpendiculai to the
          slope to prevent erosion

Less Toxic Pest Control
Products

             hen used accord-
            ing to label in-
           structions, the four
         products listed below
are less toxic to the environ-
ment than other commercially
available products. The prod-
ucts are available at garden
stores with large inventories.
Insecticidd Soap
This natural soap destroys pest
membranes. It is effective
against: aphids, mealybugs,
white flier, scales, earwings,
rose slugs, crickets, spittlebugs,
and many more.
BT(Bacillus ThuringiensisJ
BT is particularly effective
against leaf-eating caterpillars.
It kills them by paralyzing the
digestive tract.
Milky Spore
Milky spore is a natural bacte-
ria that kills the grub phase of
Japanese beetles. The milky
spores actually remain alive in
the soil, preventing new infes-
tations for a few years.
Dormant Oil Sprays
Oil sprays can  be used either
during the dormant or growing
season to control scale insects,
red spider, mites, mealybugs,
and whitefly larvae on shrubs,
evergreens,  woody plants, fruit
trees, shade trees, azaleas,
roses, and other ornamentals.
Fertilizer

       Certilizers are designed
       to supplement the nu-
       trients already present
      in  your soil. (See the
chapter on lawns for more de-
tailed information on which
fertilizer  or combination of fer-
tilizers is right for the soil in
your garden.) Know what your
soil requires before you apply
any fertilizer.
     Too much fertilizer can
damage roots, and the excess
can reach your local stream
and lead to water pollution
problems. Avoid applying fertil-
izer on windy days or just prior
to a heavy rain. For best re-
sults, always apply commercial
fertilizers according to the di-
rections on the bag.

Controlling Pests

         mong the many ways
         you can control gar-
         den pests are to:
            Use pest-resistant
  flowers, plants, and vegeta-
  bles whenever possible
  Handle minor pest problems
  by hand weeding and de-
  stroying insects
  Wrap tomato stems in alumi-
  num foil to stop cut worms
  Plant borders to repel insects
  Encourage ladybugs, praying
  mantises, and other insects
  that eat garden pests
  Use pesticides only when
  other methods have failed,
  and use them according
  to the manufacturer's
  instructions
  Seek expert advice if
  none of the above
  measures works
                                                                                                   Some insects will eat
                                                                                                   garden pests, precluding
                                                                                                   the need for chemical
                                                                                                   pesticides. Examples of
                                                                                                   "good" bugs are lady-
                                                                                                   bugs, praying mantises,
                                                                                                   lacewings, dark ground
                                                                                                   beetles, soldier beetles,
                                                                                                   and the larvae of lightning
                                                                                                   bugs.
                              R
            D

                                   \\

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Chapter 10
Pesticides: Handle With
Care
       o many homeowners,
      pest control is synony-
     mous with chemicals,
     and quick eradication is
the goal. Pesticides is an um-
brella term that includes herbi-
cides, insecticides, fungicides,
and rodenticides. Designed to
kill "pests," this big family of
chemicals can also be danger-
ous to human health and the
environment. There is consid-
erable controversy about the
potential risks associated with
pesticides. Some toxicologists
believe that pesticides can  trig-
ger allergic reactions or cause
chronic health problems, while
other toxicologists say  that if
used properly, pesticides pose
no significant risks to human
health  unless a person is ex-
posed to too much either
through a large exposure (such
as a spill), or through small ex-
posures over a long period of
time, particularly if no protec-
tive clothing is used.
     Pesticides first became an
environmental issue for many
people with the publication of
Rachel Carson's book Silent
Spring in 1962. Since then, the
regulatory approach  to pesti-
cides has been changed by
Congress, which amended the
1947 Federal Insecticide, Fun-
gicide and Rodenticide Act
(F1FRA) in 1972. FIFRA  gave to
the Environmental Protection
Agency the job of re-registering
all pesticides then on the mar-
ket. The re-registration process
includes a detailed examina-
tion of data on safety as well as
both short-term (acute) and
long-term (chronic) health ef-
fects. Tb date, about 200 of the
600 principal active chemical
ingredients in commercially
available pesticides have been
re-registered. Therefore, it is
not correct to assume that be-
cause a product is available in
your local hardware or garden
store, it has undergone rig-
orous environmental and
health effects evaluation
procedures.
     Some pesticides that were
 once widely used have now
 been banned or severely re-
 stricted. These include DDT,
 chlordane. aldrin, heptachlor,
 dieldrin, lindane, silvex,
 tributyltin and 2,4,5-T. In the
 Bay states, chlordane is
 registered only for use against
 termites but must be applied in
 a very specific manner. In
 Maryland, chlordane has been
 found  in fish tissue. Check with
 your Cooperative Extension
 Service concerning disposal of
 these products.

 Alternatives to Pesticides
     l may be possible to con-
     trol a pest problem with-
    out a pesticide. Check the
    chart on integrated pest
management on the next page
and the gardening ideas on
page 18. In some cases, alter-
natives that are  nontoxic are
readily available. For example,
to deter termites, remove wood
piles near your home. Your
county Cooperative Extension
Service can provide advice on
the best strategy for controlling
pests in and around your
home.  Alternative methods of
pest control should be consid-
ered before you consider use of
a commercial pesticide.
 Minimizing Pesticide
 Hazards
       o minimize the poten-
      tial hazards of pesti-
      cides, follow these guide-
     lines:
   Read the label carefully.
   Buy only the quantity you
   need.
   Wear any protective clothing
   specified on the label.
   Wash your hands immedi-
   ately after applying the pesti-
   cide.
   Apply only the amount spec-
   ified on the label and only to
   the plants and areas listed in
   the instructions.
   Make sure people and pets
   are out of the area during ap-
   plication and until the spray
   has dried.
 Some counties in Maryland
 have passed ordinances re-
 quiring that a warning sign
 be posted on the sprayed
 area for at least two days
 after application.
 Cover or remove exposed
 foods, fish tanks, and pet
 food and water dishes during
 and after application.
 Never apply near wells,
 streams, ponds, or marshes
 unless the instructions spe-
 cifically allow for such use.
 Never apply to bare ground
 or eroded areas (when it
 rains, many pesticides bind
 tightly to soil and can be car-
 ried along with sediments to
 storm sewers and streams).
 Don't apply if rain is forecast
 unless otherwise  specified
on the label (some pesticides
do need to be watered in
after application).
Choose the least toxic pesti-
cide  (those with the signal
word "caution" on the label
are considered least toxic
whereas the signal word
"warning" indicates moder-
ate toxicity).
                      S
T
                                 Pesticides con be toxic to
                                 humans, animals, aquatic
                                 organisms, and plants
                                 Always read the label
                                 carefully before using a
                                 pesticide in or around
                                 your home
             ENVIRONMENTAL  WARNINGS
                                                L

-------
Storage

       oisonings and environ-
       mental contamination
       have occurred where
      pesticides were stored
improperly. To be safe, you
should store unused pesticides
in an area well away from living
areas. The place you choose
should have a cement  floor, be
well-lit and well-ventilated, in-
sulated from temperature ex-
tremes, out of direct sunlight,
and out of a child's reach. For
example, a locked metal cabi-
net in your garage is usually a
good storage place for  pesti-
cides. Always keep pest control
products in their original con-
tainers with labels intact. Most
pesticides stored under these
conditions should remain ef-
fective for two years, although
this varies widely.

Spills

     t can be extremely diffi-
     cult to completely decon-
    taminate an area when a
   pesticide has been spilled.
For this reason, you never want
to store these products in the
kitchen or other living areas.
     If a pesticide leaks or is
spilled in the garage, on the
driveway, or other outdoor
areas, do not hose down the
spill. This will cause further
contamination and may carry
the pesticide to storm sewers or
other water sources. The best
way to clean a small spill is to:
  Surround the contaminated
  area with dirt.
  Sprinkle sawdust, kitty litter,
  vermiculite, or  some other
  absorbent material over the
  spill.
  Shovel or sweep the absor-
  bent material into a sturdy
  plastic bag and put it in the
  trash.
  Wear rubber gloves, long
  pants, and rubber boots
  while cleaning up.
  Keep pets and other people
  away.
  Wash down the area (if a
  garage floor or other hard
  surface) with a solution of
  water and bleach, ammonia,
  or a strong detergent.
     If pesticides spill directly
into water, notify public health
authorities and your state fish
and game agency immediately.
Keep people and pets away
from the spill. In small streams,
it may be possible for you to
prevent further contamination
by building a soil dike down-
stream from the spill.

What To Do With Leftovers?

       esticides should never
       be buried in your yard,
      burned, or poured into
      storm drains or your toi-
let. Some pesticides and their
containers release toxic fumes
when burned or wetted, and
sewage treatment plants do not
employ the kinds of microbes
that would neutralize the pesti-
cide's harmful effects. Septic
systems can be harmed by pes-
ticides as well. The best
method for safely disposing of
pesticides is to buy only as
much as you plan to use within
a two-year period, and to use
them up according to label in-
structions.
     Federal law now requires
that pesticides made for home
use be labeled as to the appro-
priate disposal method. Again,
it is essential that you read the
label carefully and follow its di-
rections.  Consult your county
Cooperative Extension agent
for guidance in disposal of
older pesticides with unread-
able labels.

Pest Control Companies

        Pests inside the home—
       termites, cockroaches,
       insects, and mice—
      often mean professional
pest control services for the
consumer. Check out the com-
pany before you sign a con-
tract, and insist on knowing
what pesticides they plan to
use.  The pest control operator
should be willing to give the
consumer a copy of the pesti-
cide label, explain why a par-
ticular pesticide has been cho-
sen for the job, describe what
techniques will be used, and
list the precautions you may
need to take after the operator
leaves.
WHAT IS INTEGRATED PEST
MANAGEMENT (IPM)?

           Currently there are two opposing philosophies
          of pest control practices in the management of
          landscape plants and lawns. The oldest and
         most common approach places relatively com-
plete reliance on the use of synthetic chemical pesti-
cides, even to the point of spraying on a regular basis for
preventive purposes. The  newer concept, called Inte-
grated Pest Management or IPM, emphasizes frequent
monitoring to assess pest  population buildup, and the
evaluation of all factors including environmental effects,
before pesticides are applied. Some IPM tactics that may
reduce or eliminate the need for pesticide sprays are
listed below.
•  Natural predators: introducing the types of animals
   that will naturally gobble up pests. Ladybugs, lacew-
   ings, praying mantids, garter snakes and toads are all
   examples of natural predators that eat insect pests.

•  Habitat Changes: changing the habitat to physically
   control many pest species. For example, by getting rid
   of all the old tires in your neighborhood you can cut
   down on the number of mosquitoes breeding in your
   area. (The tires fill up with rainwater, making perfect
   breeding sites for mosquitoes.)

•  Timing: regulating planting and harvesting to avoid
   those times when insects are most abundant and
   damaging.

•  Mechanical: removing eggs, larvae, cocoons, and
   adults from plants by hand.

•  Resistant plants: when buying plants for the garden
   always request those that are relatively free of major
   pests and diseases.

•  Growing conditions:  plants such as azaleas that re-
   quire some shade are more susceptible to pests when
   grown in full sun. Moisture and pH levels also affect a
   plant's ability to withstand stress and pests.

•  Mixed plantings: planting mixed stands of trees or
   crops instead of planting large areas with just one type
   of plant. Mixed stands are not as susceptible to
   insect damage.

•  Natural pathogens and parasites: introducing bacte-
   ria, viruses, and insect parasites that will kill pests but
   won't harm other types of animals.

•  Insect hormones: using insect hormones to prevent an
   insect from growing into a sexually mature adult. (Just
   as in people, hormones control growth and develop-
   ment in insects.)

•  Chemicals: using synthetic pesticides only as needed.
   In IPM, chemicals are just one small part of the whole
   plan. By studying an insect's  life cycle, the right
   amount of pesticide at the right time can be used ef-
   fectively. Less pesticide and careful application mean
   a more healthful environment and better pest control.
Reprinted from the Ranger Rick Nature Scope series with permission
from the National Wildlife Federation.
  PEST
                             ON                  R         0

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Chapter 11

Be Cautious At Home
        ome of the products
       found in American
       homes have chemical
       ingredients that are po-
tentially harmful. Look under
the kitchen sink, in the
bathroom, the garage, and the
basement for examples. There
you'll find oven cleaners, paint
remover, bug killers, solvents,
drain cleaners, and more.
These products are potentially
harmful to people and to the
environment and should be
used with care.
     Public concern about the
use and disposal of hazardous
chemicals has grown dramati-
cally in recent years. In 1976,
Congress passed the Resource
Conservation and Recovery Act
(RCRA), which set up regula-
tory procedures governing gen-
eration, storage, transport,
treatment, and disposal of haz-
ardous materials. This was fol-
lowed in 1980 by the passage
of Superfund, which provides
money to clean up hazardous
waste sites such as the infa-
mous one at Love Canal. There
is,  however, no regulation of
household hazardous wastes,
which must be taken care of by
the individual consumer.
     This chapter of Baybook
describes the different catego-
ries of products commonly
used at home, and the appro-
priate disposal methods for
each.

Household Cleaners


           any of the prod-
           ucts used at home,
           such as soaps and
          detergents, are
meant to be washed down the
drain. These products are bio-
degradable and, if the waste-
water from your home is prop-
erly treated, they pose no
problem to the environment.
      However, there are prod-
ucts commonly found on
kitchen shelves that are toxic to
people and to the environment
Oven cleaners, floor wax, furni-
ture polish, drain cleaners, and
spot removers are examples.
Check the labels of products
such as these for the following
toxic components: lye,
phenols, petroleum distillates,
trichlorobenzene. Products
containing these chemicals
pose a potential threat to
health, if improperly used, and
also present real environmental
hazards when it comes to dis-
posal.
     It is often possible to use
an alternative, less toxic
method to clean or to polish.
Ovens, for example, can be
cleaned by applying table salt
to spills, then scrubbing with a
solution of washing soda and
water. A combination of lemon
oil and linseed oil makes a
good furniture polish. Clogged
drains can sometimes be
cleaned with a metal "snake"
instead of toxic chemical
cleaners.
     When you feel that it is
absolutely necessary to use a
product containing toxic chem-
icals, some cautions should be
observed.  As with pesticides,
the rule of thumb is to read the
label and to use the product
only as directed. Some prod-
ucts become even more dan-
gerous when mixed with
others; for example, chlorine
bleach mixed with  ammonia
can produce deadly chloramine
gas. Protective clothing and
rubber gloves may  be neces-
sary; good ventilation is a must.


A Word About Detergents


          ne of the most-used
          home cleaning
          products is deter-
         gent. Many of the
detergent products formulated
for automatic washing ma-
chines and dishwashers con-
tain phosphorus, which has
been shown to cause water
quality problems in lakes and
bays. The detergent industry
has responded to this problem
by developing products that
contain little or no phosphate.
 For example, all liquid deter-
 gents are phosphorus-free, as
 are some powders. Again, the
 label will clearly tell you the
 phosphorus content. The range
 is from about 13 percent, in
 some automatic dishwashing
 detergents, to none. When you
 have a choice, buy the low
 phosphorus product.

 Home Maintenance
 Products
        mong the most toxic
        household products
        are those used for
         home repair and
maintenance. Paints, preserva-
tives, strippers, brush cleaners,
and solvents contain a wide
range of chemicals, some of
which are suspected carcino-
gens (cancer-causing). These
products should never be put
into sewer or septic systems—
in other words, not down the
drain.
     To reduce disposal prob-
lems, buy only what you need.
Used turpentine or brush
cleaner can be filtered and
reused.  Paint cans and  other
containers should be stuffed
with newspaper and allowed to
dry before placing in the trash.
     Hobby supplies such as
photographic chemicals are
also hazardous and should not
go down the drain.

        I
Household chemicals,
especially petroleum-
based formulas, are po-
tentially toxic and not
readily biodegradable. All
household chemicals
should be used with care
            i i i
                   /
  HOUSEHOLD         CHEMICALS

-------
 Car Care
            otor oil, battery
           acid, gasoline, car
           wax, engine
          cleaners, antifreeze,
degreasers, radiator flushes,
and rust preventatives are ex-
amples of automotive products
containing toxic chemicals.
Some car owners do their own
maintenance work: 25 percent
change their car's oil, and
many of these people pour the
used oil down the storm drain.
One quart of oil can contami-
nate up to two million gallons
of drinking water. The oil from
one engine—four to six quarts
—can produce an eight-acre oil
slick.
     The only recommended
way to dispose of used oil is to
put it into a sturdy container,
like a plastic milk jug, and take
it to your neighborhood garage
or oil recycling center. Mary-
land, Pennsylvania, Virginia,
and the District of Columbia all
have a number you can call to
find an oil recycling station
near your home.
     Disposing of antifreeze is
also a problem. Antifreeze con-
tains ethylene glycol, which is
poisonous to people, fish, and
wildlife. Many cats and dogs
have died after drinking sweet
tasting puddles of antifreeze
they find on driveways in the
winter.
     Instead of pouring anti-
freeze down the drain or wash-
ing it into storm drains, ask
your local service station to add
the liquid to their used anti-
freeze storage drum. You can
also dilute the antifreeze and
pour the mixture into a gravel
pit or any area with good drain-
age. This method takes advan-
tage of the soil's natural filter-
ing capacity.
Disposing of Household
Joxics
       rhe kinds of household
      toxics described in this
     chapter should not be
    disposed of "down the
                                 Oil can be recycled. Used oil and
                                 antifreeze should be token to your
                                 local service station for recycling.
                                 Never hose oil or antifreeze down into
                                 your stormdrain
     /   ^-^  >.
    A     7^-
   /.<... __^

                                         u/'//
drain." Your drain leads either
to a home septic system or a
municipal treatment plant, nei-
ther of which is designed to
completely remove toxic chem-
icals from wastewater. At least
some of the toxics pass through
the treatment process and end
up in a stream, river, or
groundwater. Read the section
in this guide on septic systems
for further cautions.
     Effective sewage treat-
ment is essential for treating
the large volume of wastewater
that comes from our homes.
Improving municipal treatment
plants is a part of the strategy
to clean up Chesapeake Bay.
Well-run treatment plants can
remove some nutrients, or-
ganic materials, and heavy
metals from wastewater. The
chlorine used to disinfect can
also be removed by a process
called dechlorination. Individ-
uals and communities should
insist that the publicly-owned
treatment plants that serve
them are maintained and oper-
ated at peak efficiency. This
may mean added cost to con-
sumers, but is essential to good
water quality in our rivers and
Bay.
     The products described in
this chapter should also never
be poured on the ground or
into gutters where they will
eventually enter storm sewers,
which generally lead directly to
a nearby stream.
     In many areas, the only
available disposal method is
the local landfill. While proba-
bly better than flushing a toxic
chemical down the drain, land-
fills are not a good long-term
solution to  our waste disposal
problems. New energy needs to
go into finding better solutions.
     Where household hazard-
ous wastes must be sent to a
landfill, a couple of steps can
be taken to reduce the environ-
mental risk. First, wrap the
product in its original container
in newspaper, and then wrap
in an old plastic bag. Liquids
can be poured into containers
filled with absorbent kitty litter,
then wrapped in plastic.
     Some  states are dealing
with the problem of hazardous
household wastes by sponsor-
ing amnesty days. On amnesty
day, small quantities of your
unwanted household chemi-
cals and pesticides are col-
lected and disposed of in an
approved facility. The actual
collection and disposal of the
waste should be performed by
technicians who know Which
chemicals should not be mixed
together.  Amnesty days are de-
signed to educate the general
public about the potential haz-
ards of improper use and dis-
posal of consumer products
that contain toxic chemicals.
Check with  your state or county
government to Find out about
amnesty days in your area.
WHAT YOU
CAN DO


  m   m  ere are
  LgJ some gen-
     I  eral rules of
•   • thumb for
handling and dispos-
ing of household
chemicals:
* Read the label—
  know what you
  are buying and
  what the potential
  hazards are.
• Store products in
  their original con-
  tainers so the
  label can be re-
  ferred to when-
  ever the product is
  used.
• Use alternative,
  less harmful prod-
  ucts whenever
  possible (for ex-
  ample, boric acid
  is very effective in
  controlling
  roaches).
• Use the least toxic
  product you can
  find and never
  buy more than
  you need.
• Dispose of your
  unwanted house-
  hold chemicals in
  sanitary landfills.
  Pour liquids such
  as cleaning fluids
  into a plastic con-
  tainer that is filled
  with kitty litter or
  stuffed with news-
  paper. Allow it to
  dry outdoors be-
  fore taking it to
  the landfill.
• Take used motor
  oil and antifreeze
  to a gas station
  with an oil recy-
  cling program.
  Insist on effective
  sewage treatment
  for your commu-
  nity.
        OUS                OLD         CHEMICALS

-------

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                ,
 W  A  T  E  R    CONS      RVATION

-------
 Chapter 12
Where Does Water Go?
       veryone knows about
       water conservation. In
      the western United
 mm States, the limited avail-
ability of drinking water has
made water conservation man-
datory. In other areas, reducing
water use is sometimes neces-
sary when groundwater sup-
plies are contaminated by
landfills, toxic waste dumps,
saltwater intrusion, or when
drought reduces surface water
supplies.
     To understand the impor-
tance of water conservation, it
helps to understand where
water goes. A certain percent-
age of all freshwater used in
the Bay area is lost through
evaporation. These losses total
hundreds of millions of gallons
daily, and they are increasing.
     As a result of water loss,
freshwater inflows to the Bay
are declining. This means that
during dry spells, the salt con-
tent of the Bay increases signif-
icantly, which, in turn, can
drastically alter the Bay ecosys-
tem. Water conservation meas-
ures can help maintain fresh-
water inflows to the Bay and
prevent the adverse conse-
quences of too much salt.
     Water conservation is
good for more than just the
Bay. Reducing your water use
can mean substantial savings
on your sewer, energy, and
water bills. For those with sep-
tic tanks (30  percent of the
population),  conserving water
reduces wear and tear on your
system, and requires less en-
ergy for pumping well water.

Beyond Your Home

            idespread reduc-
            tion in water
          usage could reduce
         the need for new or
expanded sewage treatment fa-
cilities. If the amount of water
every family  uses is reduced, so
is the volume of water entering
our sewage treatment plants.
The tax dollars saved by not
having to expand existing
plants can be used to improve
water treatment techniques.
     Only 4 of the 100 gallons
of water we each use every day
are actually necessary. We can
decrease water consumption in
our homes by 15 to 20 percent
without major discomfort or
expense. All we have to do is
acquire good water use habits.
Many conservation techniques
are simple, common sense
ideas.
     The first step in conserv-
ing water around your home is
to check for and eliminate any
leaks in faucets, toilets, hoses,
and pipes. At the water pres-
sure found in most household
plumbing systems, a Viz" open-
ing in a faucet can waste up to
6000 gallons of water per
month. A steady drip wastes 20
gallons a day. A leaking toilet
can waste 200 gallons of water
a day without making a sound.
     Water conservation is as
simple as thinking before you
turn on the faucet. Many of us
developed our water use habits
before the time of water short-
ages and water quality prob-
lems. Now that we understand
the potential impact of the way
we use water, it should be easy
to make water conservation a
part of our everyday lives.
                                                               A dripping faucet wastes
                                                               20 gallons of water every
                                                               day That's 6000 gallons
                                                               of water a month, 72,000
                                                               gallons in a year!
WHAT YOU CAN DO

  M  M se these simple guidelines to make sure you
  •   m aren't wasting water without knowing it:
 t  m • Test for a leaking toilet by adding food col-
 %l^ oring to the tank. Without flushing, note if
any color appears in the bowl after 30 minutes. If
color appears, you have a leak.
• Check your water meter while no water is being
  used.  If the dial moves, you have a leak.
• Turn off your water and hot water heater when
  going on a trip.
• Run your dishwasher only when you have a  full
  load. Use the cycles with the least number of
  washes and rinses.
• Don't run water continuously when washing dishes
  in the sink.
• Add your garbage to the compost or trash instead of
  putting it down  the garbage disposal. Disposals not
  only use a great deal of water, but they also add
  solids to an already overloaded sewer system.
• Wash clothes only when you have a full load. Set
  the water level  control appropriately. The perma-
  nent press cycles may use an additional 10 to 20
  gallons of water.
• Buy a suds-saver washing machine when you need
  to buy a new machine.
• Install a water conservation shower head. They are
  inexpensive and reduce flow by at least 25 percent.
• Place two half-gallon plastic bottles filled with
  water in your toilet tank. This cuts the number of
  gallons used per flush from five to four.
• Take short showers instead of a bath. Remember,
  baths can use 30 to 50 gallons of water.
• Do not let water run in the sink while shaving,
  brushing your teeth, or lathering your face and
  hands.
• Water your lawn and wash your car only when ab-
  solutely necessary.
• Wash one section of the  car at a time and rinse it
  quickly. Use a hose that is high pressure, low-vol-
  ume, and has a  pistol grip nozzle.
• Water your lawn during the coolest part of the day
  to avoid rapid evaporation.
   WA           ER         CONSERVA          ION

-------
Chapter 13


Boating on the Bay

        ecreational boating
        provides relaxation
        and enjoyment for
       many thousands of Bay
area residents. Boating is also
an important Bay industry,
bringing in $5 to $7 billion in
revenue each year. However,
boating also contributes to the
Bay's environmental problems.
All of us—especially boaters—
have a lot to lose if Bay waters
continue to deteriorate. As a
boat owner, you can play a
major role in improving water
quality in the Bay. The first step
is to understand the potential
impact of your boating activi-
ties. By understanding, you
help ensure that you won't
damage the Bay that brings you
so much pleasure.

Boats Cause Erosion

     n narrow creeks and
    coves,  boat wakes contrib-
    ute to shoreline erosion.
   While this loss of land is a
problem for shorefront prop-
erty owners, it also affects
boaters. Eroded sediments
create unwanted shoals, cause
shallowing, and cut off light to
underwater life, especially
plants. All this creates tremen-
dous problems for the Bay eco-
system.
     The extent of shoreline
erosion caused by boat wakes
depends on the wake's energy.
This energy, in turn, is related
to four factors: distance from
the shore, hull size, boat speed,
and creek depth. To minimize
shoreline erosion, boats should
not produce wakes within 500
feet of the shore.
     In many tributaries  and
coves, a boat speed only two
knots above the posted six-knot
limit creates a wake with great
erosive force. The impact of
your boat's wake on shoreline
erosion can be greatly reduced
if you  slow down before, not
after, the speed limit marker.
Speed limits were designed to
protect both you and the ma-
rine environment.







                  Chemicals on Board

                        he phosphates in the
                        soap you use to wash
                       your boat contribute to
                       excessive algal growth in
                  the Bay. If you rinse and scrub
                  your boat with a brush after
                  each use instead of using soap,
                  you will be helping the Bay. If
                  your boat is stained, use phos-
                  phate-free soap or laundry de-
                  tergent to get it clean. When
                  possible, avoid products that
                  remove stains and make your
                  boat shine. They are extremely
                  toxic. Products with warnings
                  on the label can kill marine life
                  if washed overboard.
                      Fuel overflows from gas
                  tanks are dangerous to people
                  and toxic to fish and other
                  aquatic life. The traditional
                  method  for determining if you
                  have a full tank is to look for
                  fuel spilled from the tank over-
                  flow vent. You can prevent
                  these overflows by estimating
                  fuel consumption relative to
                  your tank capacity. With a little
                  practice, you will become an
                         expert at gauging when your
                         tank is full.
                             The Chesapeake Bay is
                         suffering from the effects of
                         nutrient enrichment, which
                         contributes to algal blooms and
                         oxygen depletion. Human
                         waste contains disease-carry-
                         ing bacteria and the very nu-
                         trients that are choking the
                         Bay. By minimizing or elimi-
                         nating the discharge of boat
                         sewage, you will be helping the
                         Bay survive and flourish.
                             There is increasing con-
                         cern about the effect of chlo-
                         rine on aquatic life. Many Type
                         I and Type II marine sanitation
                         devices use chlorine and other
                         disinfectants. The adverse im-
                         pact of chlorine can be les-
                         sened if you discharge waste
                         only in waters deeper than 20
                         feet, where tidal movement will
                         disperse the contaminated
                         waste. Boats with Type III sys-
                         tems and those berthed at ma-
                         rinas should use on-shore sani-
                         tary facilities. Because marina
                         pilings hamper the water's abil-
                         ity to  flush through the area,
                         overboard dumping at a slip
                    Boats can damage the
                    environment if they aren't
                    used and maintained with
                    care. Boat wakes cause
                    shoreline erosion, bot-
                    tom paints are toxic, and
                    boat wastes add to water
                    pollution. Follow the sug-
                    gestions listed here to
                    make your boat a non-
                    polluter!
  R
E
R

T
0
N

-------
will deteriorate water quality in
the immediate area of your
boat and lead to foul-smelling
water.
    Trash is the most visible
kind of Bay pollution. You
should designate a storage area
on your boat specifically for
trash.  Beer cans and tabs, styro-
foam cups, plastic bags, and
other  debris can trap, injure,
and kill aquatic life. Most of
this debris doesn't disintegrate;
instead, it remains in the Bay
for years.

Maintaining Your Boat

       Boats are normally
       hauled once a year for
       repairs, painting, and
       general maintenance.
Many  of the cleaning, dissolv-
ing, and painting agents used
for maintenance are toxic to
aquatic life. A few simple pre-
cautions can prevent these
chemicals from unduly harm-
ing the Bay.
    Copper and tributyltin
(TBT)  bottom paints, used to
prevent fouling, cause particu-
lar environmental damage. In
fact, the use of tributyltin  is
now greatly restricted by fed-
eral legislation. Bottom paints
are a necessary evil, but their
impact can be lessened if you
control the amount that enters
the Bay. When scraping the
boat bottom, catch the scrap-
ings with  a drop cloth. Throw
the cloth away when you're
finished. If you don't have  a
drop cloth, sweep up the scrap-
ings and throw them in the
trash.
    Marina owners and oper-
ators can  participate in the Bay
cleanup effort. By installing
and maintaining a used oil
drum, they make it easier to re-
cycle your boat's oil. If the
marina needs new pavement,
encourage the operator to use
the porous asphalt discussed in
chapter 6. Any of the practices
that increase infiltration (see
chapters 1, 2, and 3) will also
help the Bay. Marinas also pro-
vide logical places for the  dis-
tribution of educational mate-
rials to boaters.
                 Swimming Pools

                            any of us enjoy
                            the pleasures of a
                           backyard swim-
                           ming pool. Pools re-
                 quire substantial doses of
                 chemicals, especially chlorine,
                 to keep the water bacteria-free.
                 If you have to drain your pool,
                 take care to prevent the chlo-
                 rine from contaminating storm
                 drains or nearby streams. Since
                 chlorine dissipates rapidly, you
                 should allow the pool water to
                 sit for a few days before drain-
                 ing. Wherever possible, drain
                 your pool onto an expanse of
                 lawn to take full advantage of
                 the filtering capacity of the soil.
                          WHAT YOU CAN DO

                                 ey observing the precautions outlined in this
                                 chapter, you will be helping to preserve the
                                 Bay for the enjoyment of many more genera-
                                 ions of boaters, swimmers, and water sports
                          enthusiasts:
                          *; Observe posted marine speed limits
                          * Do not produce wakes within 500 feet of the shore
                          • Use phosphate-free detergents if you must wash
                            your boat
                            Discharge boat sewage into waters deeper than 20
                            feet or use on-shore sanitary facilities
                          x Do not throw trash overboard
                          •' Use extreme caution when using cleansers, paint,
                            and antifouling compounds on your boat
                          •» Drain your pool only when necessary, and then
                            onto a large expanse of lawn to allow the chlorine
                            to dissipate and the water to filter slowly through
                            the soil
                                                                         .r
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 R
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-------
Chapter 14
Restoring the Bay

       he water that eventually
      finds its way into the
      Chesapeake Bay drains
     from countless parcels of
property like yours in hundreds
of counties in six states and the
District of Columbia. To reduce
pollution and restore the Bay
to its former productivity,
everyone—governments, com-
munities, and individuals—
must work together. The com-
mitments made by the federal
and state governments are a di-
rect response to public concern
about cleaning up the Bay.
This public partnership will
make the difference between
the Bay as it has been and the
Bay as we want it to be.
    Many community groups
in the Bay area have already
organized activities and
projects designed to improve
water quality. This chapter de-
scribes educational activities
and projects designed to help
your community clean up and
protect local streams and rivers.

Getting Started

      ^^  arden clubs,
           church and scout
          groups, civic asso-
  ^te   ciations, and service
organizations all have a stake
in improving local water qual-
ity. Groups such as these might
want to consider devoting one
or more meetings to learning
about the Bay. You could fea-
ture a knowledgeable speaker,
show a film, organize a panel
discussion with local officials,
or sponsor a half-day workshop
on Bay issues.
    Your county or city plan-
ning department or any
number of Bay advocacy or-
ganizations can help you find
speakers for your meeting. Bay
advocacy organizations can
also loan films and slide shows
to your group. After you've had
one or two meetings about the
Bay, you can tackle a project
that will begin to have an effect
on water quality in your neigh-
borhood creek and in the Bay.
     Your group should plan to
see the problems discussed in
your meetings about the Bay. If
your local sewage treatment
plant or landfill gives you cause
for concern, arrange a tour and
learn about the problems first-
hand. Invite your city or county
council member along to dis-
cuss ways of dealing with the
problems you see.

Take a Stream  Walk

    f there is a stream or creek
    in your community, plan a
   stream walk. There are sev-
   eral excellent handbooks
that tell you how to find and
diagnose potential  problems.
Walking a stream can alert you
to erosion problems, blockages
caused by fallen trees and
debris, highway and construc-
tion runoff, excessive algal
growth, poisoned fish, foul
smells, and direct discharge
into the stream. Mark the loca-
tion of potential problems on a
map, which your county gov-
ernment may be willing to pro-
vide for just that purpose.
     After your stream walk,
you might want to organize a
community stream cleanup.
Debris in your local stream
causes drainage problems,
blocks fish migration, and can
lead to toxic contamination.
Besides, old washing ma-
chines, mattresses,  trash bags.
and fallen trees don't do much
to improve the landscape. An
excellent source of information
about stream pollution and
cleanup is an organization
called Save Our Streams. SOS
will help you plan and execute
a community project. Their
number is listed in the Re-
sources section of this guide.
     Educate your neighbors
about the damage the soft
WHAT YOU
CAN DO

        fter reading
         this guide,
         you know
         that there
are many changes
you and your family
can make in house-
hold routines to help
improve the quality
of water flowing into
the Bay. This
chapter of the Bay-
book is about how
you and your neigh-
bors can join to-
gether to make a real
difference in the fu-
ture of the vast es-
tuary known as the
Chesapeake Bay.
• Encourage your
  church group,
  civic association,
  and other com-
  munity groups to
  get involved in the
  area-wide efforts
  to preserve and
  restore the Bay
• Organize a stream
  cleanup project in
  your neighbor-
  hood
• Let your elected
  representatives
  know that your
  community is
  concerned about
  the quality of life
  in and around the
  Bay
• Call one of the
  local Bay advo-
  cacy organizations
  for more informa-
  tion about how
  your group can
  help monitor and
  improve water
  quality in the Bay
  Become a
 \ steward of the
  Bay's natural i
 I resources
  C      0      M     M     U      N     I            Y
                                          ACT            ON

-------
drink cans they toss away can
cause. Get everyone to remove
trash and leaves from their gut-
ters and stormdrains. This kind
of debris should be thrown in
the trash, not down the storm-
drain, where it contributes to
stream pollution.

Get Involved With
Government

        you and your neighbors
       can take part in com-
       prehensive plan devel-
     opment and the zoning
for your city or county.
Through this process, areas ad-
jacent to waterways can be
given special consideration.
One  of the most effective ways
you can influence decisions
about how your county is de-
veloped or what happens with
the local sewage treatment
plant is to get your civic associ-
ation involved. Some of the
most successful citizen in-
volvement stories are the result
of community associations
tackling an issue, becoming in-
formed, challenging the "ex-
perts," conducting publicity
campaigns, and coming up
with an alternate plan.
     The results of many sci-
entific studies suggest a strong
relationship between land use
and declining water quality in
the Bay. The health of the
Chesapeake Bay clearly de-
pends upon wise use of the
watershed. Controlling the ef-
fects of future growth is impor-
tant since the population  in the
Bay region continues to in-
crease. By getting involved in
the planning stage, you can
help limit the adverse effects of
uncontrolled development.
     Land use  policy decisions
are a local government prerog-
ative in Maryland,  Pennsylva-
nia, and Virginia. Each county
or town has a comprehensive
plan that forecasts needs and
suggests possible land uses for
the future. Some cities, towns,
and counties are zoned for par-
ticular uses. Certain areas are
designated for open land, resi-
dential or commercial develop-
ment, or agricultural uses.
These plans often take areas of
significant ecological impor-
tance into account. For more
information about how you can
participate in the planning
process, call your city or county
planning office.
     If you're not a member of
your local civic association,
join. If there's no association in
your area, consider starting
one. For issues that affect more
than the immediate neighbor-
hood, a coalition of community
organizations may be effective.
Coalition newsletters are useful
tools for getting  important in-
formation about Bay issues to
members quickly and inexpen-
sively.

Protecting the Bay: Good
Habits Begin at Home

       Ctewardship—the wise
      use of natural resources
      —begins at home. Stew-
 ^^ards are people who use
natural resources wisely. This
guide is designed to help all of
us become stewards of the Bay.
Only when we understand how
our daily routines affect the
Bay can we restore its produc-
tivity and preserve its beauty.
By taking care when disposing
of household chemicals, using
pesticides only when abso-
lutely necessary, conserving
water, planting trees, shrubs,
and plants, and maintaining
your lawn, you are contributing
to Bay-wide cleanup efforts.
     You can make a differ-
ence. That's the point of this
guide—to tell people that what
they do every day makes a dif-
ference for the Bay. And what-
ever you do to benefit the Bay
will, in the long run, benefit
you, your family, and your
community.

>   w     -Mi
       T>    •.-  S&) tfri

  COMMUNITY
                                          AC             ION

-------
             hlle you can im-
            plement many of
           the suggestions of-
          fered in this guide,
there are some areas where
you'll need more detailed ad-
vice. Find the issue you're
concerned about and call the
number listed for your state.
With these resources and the
information contained in the
Baybook, you will be pre-
pared to help preserve and
restore the Chesapeake Bay
and its watershed.
     Foi a complete listing of
citizen groups, government
agencies, and business and
trade associations involved in
Chesapeake Bay issues, contact
the Alliance for the Chesapeake
Bay, Inc. (numbers on page 31)
and ask about "Chesapeake
Citizen D:
PREVENT EROSION ON YOUR
PROPERTY/TEST YOUR SOIL

  Maryland Cooperative
  Extension Service
  (301) 405-2907

  Pennsylvania Cooperative
  Extension Service
  (814) 863-0331
  Virginia Cooperative
  Extension Service
  (703) 231-6705
  (703) 231-6893 (soil test)
  D.C. Cooperative
  Extension Service
  (202) 576-6951

FIND SUITABLE TREES FOR
SOIL STABILIZATION

  Maryland Forest, Park
  and Wildlife Service
  (410) 974-3776

  Pennsylvania Bureau of
  Forestry
  (717) 787-2703
  Virginia Dept. of Forestry
  (804) 977-6555

LOCAL GOVERNMENT
CONCERNS
STABILIZE THE SHORELINE

  U.S. Army Corps
  of Engineers
  (410) 962-3670

  Maryland Department of
  Natural Resources, Shore
  Erosion Control
  (410) 974-3727

  Virginia Shoreline Erosion
  Advisory Service (OCR)
  (804) 642-7121

  District of Columbia
  Erosion Control
  (202)404-1146

LEARN ABOUT SEPTIC
SYSTEM PLACEMENT
AND MAINTENANCE

  Maryland Department
  of the Environment
  (410) 631-3652

  In Virginia, call your county
  health department

  Pennsylvania Bureau of
  Water Quality Management
  (717) 787-2666

RECYCLE YOUR OIL
AND ANTIFREEZE

  Maryland
  * 1-800-473-2925
  Virginia
  * 1-800-552-3831 (oil)
  * 1-800-424-9346 (antifreeze)
                                Local Government
                                Advisory Committee
                                1-800-446-5422
                                                              Pennsylvania
                                                              (717) 783-6004
                                                              District of Columbia
                                                              (202) 724-2100

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DISPOSE OF PESTICIDES AND
HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS
PROPERLY

  Maryland
  (301) 631-3305

  Pennsylvania
  •1-800-322-9214

  Virginia
  * 1-800-424-9346

  District of Columbia
  (202)404-1167

PREVENT EXCESSIVE EROSION

  Maryland Department of
  Agriculture
  (410) 841-5865

  Maryland Department of
  the Environment
  *1-800-922-8017

  Virginia Department of
  Conservation & Recreation,
  Division of Soil & Water
  Conservation
  (804) 786-2064

  Pennsylvania Department
  of Environmental
  Resources, Bureau of Land
  and Water Conservation
  (717) 787-5267

  D.C. Department
  of Consumer and
  Regulatory Affairs
  (202) 727-7170

  Local USDA Soil Conser-
  vation Service office

  Local Soil Conservation
  District office

ALERT OFFICIALS TO OIL OR
TOXIC CHEMICAL SPILLS

  Maryland
  (301) 974-3551
SHOW YOUR CONCERN
FOR THE BAY

If you want more information
about the Bay or your local
river or stream, or if you want
to become more involved in
issues affecting the Bay, call:

 Alliance for the
 Chesapeake Bay, Inc.
 (410) 377-6270 (Maryland)
 (717) 236-8825 (Perm.)
 (804) 775-0951 (Virginia)

 Chesapeake Regional
 Information Service
  1-800-662-CRIS

 Chesapeake Bay
 Foundation
 (410) 368-8816 (Maryland)
 (804) 780-1392 (Virginia)
 (717) 234-5550 (Penn.)

 Save Our Streams
 (410) 969-0084
 800-448-5826

CONTACT YOUR STATE AND
FEDERAL AGENCIES

 Pennsylvania Department
 of Environmental
 Resources
 (717) 783-2300

 Virginia Council on
 the Environment
 (804) 786-4500

 Maryland Department of
 the Environment
 (410) 631-3000
 800-633-6101

 District of Columbia
 Department of Consumer
 and Regulatory Affairs
 (202) 727-7000

 Governor's Ches. Bay
 Communication Office
  Virginia (and Fish Kills)
  (804) 527-5200

  Pennsylvania
  1-800-541-2050
  Environmental
  Protection     \ _
  Agency        \
  (410) 267-0061
                             •NOTE; 800-523-2281
                             used within the designated area
R
         0
U

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                                                                      his guide was con-
                                                                      ceived by the Mary-
                                                                     land State Soil
                                                                    Conservation Commit-
                                                               tee, who recognized the need
                                                               for a publication that would
                                                               educate individuals about
                                                               I heir role in the Bay eco-
                                                               system. The Bay book was
                                                               written and produced by staff
                                                               from a consortium of organi-
                                                               zations: University of Mary-
                                                               land Cooperative Extension
                                                               Service, Chesapeake Bay
                                                               Foundation, Alliance for the
                                                               Chesapeake Bay, U.S. Soil
                                                               Conservation Service,
                                                               Maryland Department of
                                                               Health and Mental Hygiene,
                                                               Maryland Department of
                                                               Natural Resources, and
                                                               Maryland Department of
                                                               Agriculture.
                                                                    We wish to thank the
                                                               following individuals for their
                                                               special contributions to this
                                                               publication:
                                                               Ralph Adkins
                                                               Amy Brown
                                                               Rodney A. Coggin
                                                               Thomas B.  DeMoss
                                                               Kathy Fitzpatrick
                                                               Frances Flanigan
                                                               Katherine Gugulis
                                                               Janet Hardie Harvey
                                                               William Magette
                                                               Charles McClurg
                                                               Margaret Ordonnez
                                                               David Pitt
                                                               Kenneth Shanks
                                                               Ann Swanson
                                                               Thomas Turner
                                                               Richard Weismiller
                                                               David Yost
                                                               The Baybook was funded by a
                                                               grant from the  Environmental
                                                               Protection Agency. Reprinting
                                                               was made possible by
                                                               generous contributions from
                                                               a number of corporations and
                                                               agencies.
This publication is not
copyrighted. Readers
are encouraged to
reproduce it for further
distribution. Individual
chapters can be copied
and included in your
organization's newslet-
ter or used as hand-
outs at meetings, with
credit to the Alliance
for the Chesapeake
Bay. Additional copies
are available in limited
number from the Alli-
ance for the
Chesapeake Bay, Inc.,
6600 York Road,
Baltimore, Maryland
21212, (410) 377-6270.
Design and Production:
Berns & Kay. Ltd
Washington. D.C.
Illustration: Lew Azzinaro
and Timothy Knepp
  March 1993
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

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                                      •
                                      .
       Reprinted courtesy of the Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay
                          in commemoration of
 The National Geographic Society's exhibition "Chesapeake Changes'
            Explorers Hall, March 26 to September 26,  1993
  The Chesapeake Bay Program is the multi-governmental partnership that has been directing
  and conducting the Chesapeake Bay restoration since 1983 "to improve and protect the
  water quality  and  living resources  of the Chesapeake Bay estuarine  system."  The
  Chesapeake Bay Program includes the states of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia;
  Washington, D.C.; the Chesapeake Bay Commission, the U.S. Environmental Protection
  Agency representing the federal government; and participating Citizens Advisory Groups.
Chesapeake Bay Program

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