APPLY PESTICIDES CORRECTLY A GUIDE FOR COMMERCIAL APPLICATORS ORNAMENTAL AND TURFGRASS PEST CONTROL EPA 730/ 1976.6 U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY OFFICE OF PESTICIDE PROGRAMS WASHINGTON, D.C. 20460 ------- ------- {. tf»/ fj))^ TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Acknowledgments 1 Preface 1 Ornamentals 2 Introduction 2 Disease Agents 2 Weeds 3 Insects and Mites 4 Vertebrate Pests 5 Turf grass 5 Introduction 5 Disease Agents 6 Weeds 7 Insects 8 Vertebrate Pests 9 Phytotoxicity 9 Environmental Concerns 9 Protecting Animals and People 10 Application 10 Area Measurements 10 Weights and Measures 11 ------- ------- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS PREFACE This guide has been developed by North Carolina State University under U.S. Environmental Protec- tion Agency (EPA) contract number 68-01-2903. This contract was issued by the Training Branch, Operations Division, Office of Pesticide Programs, EPA. The leader of this group effort was Robert L. Robertson, North Carolina State University. Editors were Mary Ann Wamsley, EPA, and Donna M. Vermeire, North Carolina State University. Contributors were: John F. Ahrens, Connecticut Agricultural Experi- ment Station Jack D. Butler, Colorado State University Huston B. Couch, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University Douglas Gaydon, Environmental Protection Agency, Region IV, Atlanta, Georgia William M. Hoffman, Environmental Protection Agency, Washington, D.C. Palmer Maples, Jr., Golf Course Superintendents Association of America, Atlanta, Georgia Richard L. Miller, The Ohio State University Federal regulations establish general and specific standards that you must meet before you can use certain pesticides. Your State will provide material which you may study to help you meet the general standards. This guide contains basic information to help you meet the specific standards for applicators who are engaged in ornamental and turfgrass pest control. Because the guide was prepared to cover the entire nation, some information important to your State may not be included. The State agency in charge of your training can provide the other materials you should study. This guide will give you information about: recognition and control of ornamental pests, recognition and control of turfgrass pests, and environmental concerns for ornamental and turf- grass pest control. ------- ORNAMENTALS INTRODUCTION Some plant damage is caused by living pests, in- cluding: disease agents, » weeds, insects and mites, and * vertebrate animals. Other causes of plant problems are: * too little, too much, or imbalanced fertilizer, pesticide injury, improper planting and pruning, root girdling, soil conditions (such as improper drainage, com- paction) , mechanical damage (by such things as earth- moving equipment, mowers, and hand tools), * pollution damage, and natural aging of plants (often mistaken for dam- age caused by insects and diseases). You must diagnose the problem before using con- trol methods. Can you find an insect or recognize the symptoms of a disease? Pinpointing causes of plant damage usually requires close observation. DISEASE AGENTS Fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, mycoplasmas, and parasitic plants cause diseases of landscape plants. Most common diseases are caused by fungi. The environment is of major importance to the development of disease in woody plants. For ex- ample: A sudden drop in temperature in the fall or early winter increases the susceptibility of plants to cankers caused by fungi. Waterlogging of the soil contributes to the de- velopment of certain root rots. Long periods of rain can cause an increase of such fungal diseases as scab and leaf spots. The more common diseases of landscape plants are described below. Vascular Wilt Vascular wilt fungi of shade trees are of two types: * those that infect roots (Verticillium wilt), and those that infect stems (Dutch elm disease). The organism that causes Vericillium wilt is pres- ent in the soil. It spreads upward from the roots through sapwood and interferes with water move- ment and other plant functions. Dutch elm disease is transmitted by elm bark beetles. In both diseases, leaf wilting, browning between veins, and leaf drop usually begin in one branch and progress through the tree. Dead and dying branches, sparseness of the crown, and reduced twig growth are common symptoms. Another is a discolored streaking in the wood of affected branches or in the main trunk. Leaf Spots Fungal leaf spots occur on most kinds of orna- mental plants. They usually appear first on the lower leaves. They may begin as dark brown, pin- head-sized spots which sometimes have a yellow halo. Spots may enlarge to cover an entire leaf. Small, black structures the size of pinheads are in the center of many leaf spots. As the spots become more abundant, leaves may yellow, die, and drop. Leaf spots are more common in the early spring and fall. Wet conditions usually are necessary for infection. Healthy plants become infected when the fungus spores are: splashed onto them from infected leaves on the ground, blown to them by the wind, or carried to them on clothing and tools. Scab Apples, crab apples, and pyracantha are suscep- tible to the scab fungus. Symptoms include: spots on leaves and fruit, and premature defoliation. Scab first appears as olive-green spots on the underside of new leaves. These spots become brown and velvety; then leaves turn yellow and drop pre- maturely. Fruit may become infected at any time with circular, olive-green spots that later become brown or black. The fungi overwinter in infected leaves and produce spores in the spring. Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew occurs on plants both in green- houses and outdoors. Common hosts are rose, ------- zinnia, crab apple, euonymus, and crape myrtle. Powdery mildew may produce a white powdery coating on the leaves, buds, or stems of highly susceptible plants. The new growth is stunted and curled, and leaves may become dry and drop. The flower buds are often deformed and may fail to open properly. Bacterial Fire Blight Certain varieties of apple, flowering crab, pear, pyracantha, mountain ash, and quince are highly susceptible to fire blight. Hawthorn, rose, coton- easter, spirea, and amelanchier are affected less seriously. The signs of fire blight are: Blossoms and leaves suddenly wilt, turn dark brown, shrivel, and die, but usually remain attached. Secondary infections start in the small twigs, pro- gress down the stem, and may involve whole branches. Blighted terminals may bend to look like a shep- herd's crook. Dark streaking of the wood extends several inches beyond the diseased area. Cankers on limbs are shrunken, and are dark brown to purple. An orange gum or slime often oozes from them. The baceria overwinter in cankers on the plant. They are spread by: * wind-blown rain, insects, and pruning tools. Nematodes Many nematodes live in the soil and feed on plant roots. Some kinds cause small knots on roots; others kill the tips of feeder roots. The above-ground symptoms of nematode damage may include: yellowing of foliage, stunting, and a general decline of the plant. It is difficult to distinguish between the symptoms of nematode damage and root rot infection. You may need to have soil and plant samples examined in a laboratory to confirm a nematode infestation. Root-knot of boxwood is an example of a nematode disease of ornamentals. Disease Control Types of chemicals available for disease control include: Protective chemicals applied to foliage, flowers, and fruit. They are subject to weathering and must be reapplied regularly. Systemic chemicals. These can be applied less frequently. Soil fumigants. Use of these to control soil-borne fungi, bacteria, and nematodes is economically feasible in the production and establishment of high-value ornamentals. There are no known chemicals for control of virus. With few exceptions, disease-controlling pesticides will not eradicate disease-producing agents after infection has occurred. Careful management, in- cluding pruning out of dead and dying plant parts and the removal of infected leaves, coupled with preventive use of the correct fungicides and bac- tericides, will prevent further spread. In some situa- tions, routine preventive use of a pesticide is the only practical way to protect highly susceptible plants. Your local extension agent can help you identify your pest problems and select the correct pesticide. WEEDS Many kinds of weeds are pests in landscape plant- ings. Annual Weeds Annual weeds are most troublesome in intensively cultivated ornamentals. Common annual weeds in ornamentals include: grasses (crabgrass, foxtailgrass, fall panicum, and barnyardgrass) which germinate during the spring and summer, annual bluegrass and annual bromegrass, which germinate during the late summer or fall, annual broadleaf weeds (purslane, pigweed, and lambsquarters) which germinate during the warm season and are killed by hard frost, and those that survive freezing temperatures (horse- weed, common chickwced, bittercress, and pepperweed). ------- Biennial and Perennial Weeds Biennial and perennial weeds are most trouble- some in uncultivated ornamentals. They have under- ground plant parts that survive from year to year. They are spread in several ways: Many spread easily when carried in soil, in root balls, and on cultivating equipment, as well as by seeds. These include Bermuda grass, Johnson grass, quackgrass, nutsedge, mugwort, and wild garlic. Seeds of perennial weeds such as dandelion and goldenrod are spread primarily by wind and water. Horsetail rush is spread by underground plant parts and by spores. Weed Control Consider both the weeds and the ornamental plants when choosing control methods. You can use cul- tural methods, mechanical methods, herbicides, or combinations of the three. Many weeds are re- sistant to some cultural or chemical controls. No herbicide is safe for al! ornamental plants. Newly planted ornamentals usually are more easily injured by herbicides than established plantings. The label will tell you how to use a herbicide safely and effectively. Herbicides kill weeds throueh the leaves or the roots or both. Selective herbicides kill some plants without killing others. Nonselective herbicides kill most plants in the area of application. The main types of herbicides used in or around ornamentals are: preemergence herbicides, postemergence herbicides, and soil fumigants and sterilants. Persistence varies with the herbicide and the dos- age. Persistent herbicides may leave residues that may injure a sensitive crop planted later. Repeated applications of persistent herbicides also can injure ornamental plants under certain soil and climatic conditions. Granular formulations are an efficient way to apply preemergence herbicides. Postemer- gence herbicides usually are less persistent than preemergence herbicides. They usually must be applied as a directed spray. Soil fumigants are nonselective and cannot be used in the root zones of desirable plants. Use fumi- gants before planting. The label will specify waiting periods between treatment and planting. Soil sterilants will control most weeds for long periods of time. In humid regions, however, no material is completely effective for more than one season. Soil sterilants are nonselective. They can damage nearby trees, shrubs, and turfgrass through root uptake or movement of the chemical by wind or water. INSECTS AND MITES Ornamenal plants are damaged by many kinds of insects and mites. Some suck sap from plants, others chew on or tunnel in plant parts or cause damage in other ways. Some plants are very susceptible to insects and mites and require intensive pest control. Other plants are rarely attacked by insects or mites. Pest insect infestations vary from year to year, and control is not always needed. There are several kinds of insects and mites that you should recognize. They can be grouped accord- ing to the part of the plant they feed on and the kind of injury they cause. Insects and Mites that Damage Leaves, Buds, Fruits, and Flowers CATERPILLARS are the larvae of butterflies or moths. Caterpillars chew plant parts and may com- pletely defoliate a plant. Some form webs or tents on the branches. A few bore into the plant and feed inside. Some have more than one generation per year. BEETLES are hardshelled insects. Many have spots, stripes, or other markings. Both adults and larvae may damage plant parts by boring into or chewing them. Some beetles are active only at night. LEAFMINEilS are the larvae of small flies, wasps, moths, or beetles. They feed inside the leaf. Damage appears as brown or discolored blotches or winding trails on the leaf. There may be more than one gen- eration per year. APHIDS are small, soft-bodied insects that suck sap through tiny needle-like hiouthparts. There may be several generations in a single season. They may be green, red, or black. They feed on stems, terminals, or undersides of leaves. ------- Foliage often curls or is otherwise distorted. Some aphids transmit plant disease. Aphids produce honeydew, a sweet liquid which collects on the foliage. A black sooty mold may grow on the honey- dew. Sooty mold is controlled by controlling the aphids. MITES are closely related to insects. They are hard to see without magnification. Eggs, young, and adults all may be present on an infested plant at the same time. Some form webs on the lower leaf sur- face. Mites damage leaves by sucking sap. The foliage becomes stippled and may turn off-green, yel- low, or orange. Mites may produce several genera- tions in a single season. LACEBUGS are small, broad, flat insects with clear, lace-like wings. Eggs, young, and adults all may be on a plant at the same time. Both adults and young suck sap and cause off-colored speckles, yel- lowing, and leaf drop. Many small, black, varnish- like spots of excrement on the undersides of leaves are evidence of lacebug infestation. Insect Pests of Trunks, Stems, or Branches SCALE INSECTS AND MEALYBUGS may kill large branches or whole plants. Some attack leaves and buds. Both insects secrete a protective waxy substance which covers them. Mealybugs move on the plants as both young and adults. Newly hatched scale insects (crawlers) move around on the plant. Mature scale insects, however, are securely fastened to the plant surface. They may be circular, oval, or pear-shaped. Large numbers may form crusts on the plant. They lay eggs under- neath the protective covering. BORERS are larvae of some moths and beetles. They do the most damage in the tissue just under the bark. Plants in poor health are more susceptible to attack by borers. One to several years may be re- quired to complete a life cycle. Insect Pests of Roots GRUBS are the larvae of hardshelled beetles or weevils. They usually are white with brown heads. Some have legs; others are legless. Grubs eat plant roots and may weaken or kill a plant. ROOT BORERS are the larvae of moths or beetles. They are shaped like grubs or caterpillars. They are usually a whitish color. Root borers damage plants by eating or hollowing out plant roots and crowns. ROOT-FEEDING APHIDS weaken the root sys- tems of plants. They damage roots by sucking sap, which may cause galls to form. Root aphids look like foliar-feeding aphids. Some are serious pests of foliage as well as roots. GALLS are swellings of plant parts. Many kinds of insects and mites cause galls and live inside them. Galls are unsightly but usually are not harmful to the health of a plant. Insect and Mite Control To control insects and mites, direct the pesticide at the stage of the insect or mite that is causing the damage. In some situations, preventive use of insec- ticides may be necessary to protect plants from in- festations. Your decision to use a preventive insec- ticide should be based on a previous history of in- festation in your area. Your local extension agent can help to identify your pest problems and select the correct pesticide. VERTEBRATE PESTS Vertebrate animals may damage ornamentals in several ways. Some (such as mice and moles) feed on roots and crowns. Others (including mice, rabbits, deer, and woodpeckers) feed on stems, trunks, twigs, or foliage. Barriers, trapping, repellents, and pesticides all help control vertebrate pests. Control of the insects on which vertebrate pests feed is essential. TURFGRASS INTRODUCTION Pest control in turfgrass includes: good cultural practices, and chemical pest control. Turfgrass problems often result from causes other than pests. These other causes include: improper watering, improper fertilization practices, injury from pesticides, accumulation of excessive thatch, improper selection of turfgrass species, improper mowing height, poor root systems, ------- soil that is either too acid or too alkaline, or an accumulation of soluble salts in the soil. are most severe on grass grown under high nitrogen fertilization. Be sure to consider these factors when diagnosing and treating turfgrass problems. DISEASE AGENTS The major diseases of turfgrass are caused bj: fungi, which can cause root rots and foliar dis- eases, and nematodes, which feed on the roots. Stands of diseased grass may look thin and un- thrifty or contain streaks or circular patches of dead grass. Some of the more common diseases of turf- grasses are: Helminthosporium Helminthosporium causes leaf spots and root rots. Spots on the leaves usually begin as small purplish, reddish-brown areas about the size of a pinhead. These enlarge to form tan to light-brown spots with reddish-brown margins. When the disease is severe, the spots girdle the leaves at the base and cause them to yellow. A severe infection may cause a general fading out of turfgrass. Helminthosporium diseases are more severe during long periods of wet weather. They develop best under high nitrogen fertilization. Rusts Symptoms are light-yellow flecks on the leaves. As these spots enlarge, the surfaces of the leaves rupture. Dry, reddish-brown pustules develop. At this stage, the spores readily rub off. The grass first becomes light yellow and then rapidly turns tan or light brown as the grass leaves die. Rusts develop best in moderate air temperatures. The disease is less severe on rye grasses grown under high nitro- gen fertilization. Pythium Blights Pythium blights are among the most destructive turfgrass diseases. Grasses most commonly affected are bentgrasses, Bermuda grasses, fescues, and rye grasses. The disease is first seen as small, irregularly- shaped, watersoaked, greasy patches V4 to 4 inches in diameter. A cottony growth may be present early in the morning. Diseased areas may eventually range from 1 to 10 feet in diameter. Pythium blights develop best in warm, humid weather. They Rhizoctonia Brown Patch Under conditions of close mowing, Rhizoctonia brown patch appears as irregularly shaped patches of blighted turfgrass that range in size from a few inches to 2 feet or larger. At first, the patches are purple-green in color. They then fade to a light brown. When the grass is wet, the diseased patches frequently have dark, purplish margins (smoke rings). When high mowing is practiced, the leaves wither and rapidly fade to a light brown. The patches may be irregular and range up to 50 feet in diameter. Rhizoctonia brown patch develops best during long periods of humid weather. The disease usually occurs during hot weather (80-90 degrees F). Grass grown under high nitrogen fertilization is more susceptible to the disease. Snow Mold Pink and gray snow molds are turfgrass diseases that occur in cold weather. A snow cover creates an ideal situation for the diseases to develop, but they often occur in the absence of snow. Snow molds are seen as small patches of tan to light-brown grass, 2 to 4 inches or larger. Pink snow mold spots usually are smaller than gray snow mold spots. With gray snow molds, hard, dark-red bodies are embedded in the leaves. Slime Molds Slime molds appear as dull-gray to light-blue masses of powdery growth on the surfaces of the leaves. They are most common during long periods of light rainfall. Although they are unsightly, they do not damage the grass. Controls are not necessary. Fusarium Blight Fusarium blight causes brown patches 1 to 3 feet in diameter. The patches are similar to those caused by other turfgrass diseases, but they have green tufts (frog eyes) in the center. Fusarium blight is most severe during periods of high day and night temperatures. Lush grass with an accumulation of 1 inch or more of thatch is highly susceptible to severe outbreaks. ------- Fairy Rings Fairy rings are seen as circles of darker green, faster- growing turfgrass ranging from 2 to several hundred feet in diameter. They are often surrounded by mushrooms, toadstools, or puffballs. These fungi may prevent water from penetrating the soil. Nematodes Many kinds of nematodes feed on the roots of turfgrasses and reduce their vigor. Nematode in- jury may be confused with nutritional problems, insufficient water, compact soil, or any other factor which restricts root development. Symptoms of nematode injury include: * thinning or completely killed areas, pale green to yellow color, excessive wilting, and poor response to fertilization. The best way to identify nematode problems is with a laboratory examination of soil or plants. Disease Controls Disease-producing agents in turfgrasses can be minimized and in some cases controlled th'ough the use of good management practices. Turfgrass fungicides are available for use as preventive sprays or granules. When an outbreak of a disease agent occurs, apply preventive fungicides immediately. After infection has occurred, use a preventive fungicide to protect against future infection. Timing of protective fungicide applications should be based on a knowledge of: the life cycle of the fungus, and weather conditions that are best for its parasitic activities. Preventive use of a fungicide is sometimes war- ranted when the location has a history of turfgrass disease. The routine use of fungicides can prevent disease outbreaks in turfgrass, but is an expensive and potentially harmful practice. Your local exten- sion agent can help you identify pest problems and select the correct pesticide. WEEDS Any plant can be considered a weed if it is grow- ing where it is not wanted. Bentgrass, for example, would be a weed in a bluegrass lawn. To plan a good weed control program, you must: identify the desirable turfgrass, identify the existing weeds, and know what other weeds are likely to become a problem. Annual Weeds Annual weeds complete their life cycle in less than one year. Because climatic conditions influence the timing of the life cycle, the correct time for control varies from place to place, year to year, and from one species to another. It is often desirable to establish turfgrass in the fall so the freezing weather will control summer annual weeds. In established turfgrass, the chemical control of summer annual weeds after midsummer may not be necessary or desirable. SUMMER ANNUAL WEEDS common to turfgrass are: Broadleaf Weeds Grass Weeds henbit knotweed spurge crabgrass goosegrass barnyardgrass foxtailgrass stinkgrass WINTER ANNUALS are common in new turfgrass. After the first year, good management and dense turfgrass usually provide satisfactory control. Ex- amples are: Broadleaf Grass Weeds common chickweed cheat shepherdspurse Biennial Weeds Biennial weeds normally occur at the same time as perennial broadleaf weeds. Controls are similar. Examples are: roundleaf mallow and wild carrot. Perennial Weeds Perennials, both broadleaf and grasses, occur widely as turfgrass weeds. Examples are: Broadleaf Weeds Grass Weeds dandelion wild garlic dichondra plantain mouse-ear chickweed red sorrel Bermuda grass bentgrass tall fescue quackgrass nimblewill torpedograss nutsedge ------- Weed Control The presence of weeds in turfgrass does not always require the use of herbicides. In areas that con- tain sensitive plants, it may be better to avoid the use of herbicides than to risk injury. In some loca- tions, any kind of plant cover may be better than dead plants or bare ground. Granular formulations are effective for pre- emergence herbicides. Sprays are better for post- emergence control where foliar coverage is needed. BROADLEAF WEEDSSeveral postemergence herbicides are used to selectively control annual, biennial, and perennial broadleaf weeds in turf- grasses. They can be used alone or as combinations of more than one active ingredient. Spring and fall applications of postemergence herbicides normally give satisfactory control and reduce the possibility of damage to nontarget plants. Young weeds are usually more susceptible to herbicides. Spot treat- ments are best for scattered weed populations. Weather conditions affect control results. GRASS WEEDSControl of annual grasses is best achieved with: preemergence herbicides for general infestations, spot treatment with postemergence herbicides for localized infestations. Few herbicides are safe for use on newly seeded turfgrass. Some preemergence herbicides applied in the spring adversely affect germination of turf- grasses seeded in the fall. Certain varieties of turf- grasses are more prone to injury by some herbi- cides. Check labels for precautions. Perennial grass weeds are the most difficult to control. No herbicides are available which will con- trol these weeds without damaging cool season turfgrass. Some will selectively control them in warm season turfgrass. Soil fumigants and nonselec- tive herbicides are sometimes used. INSECTS When examining turfgrass for insects, look for: thinned grass stands, dying or dead patches, discolored or withered blades, chewed or frayed blades, frass or webbing, * small holes, mounds, or burrows, or presence of large numbers of bird and animal droppings. Some of the more troublesome turfgrass insect pests are: Grubs Grubs are the larvae of hardshelled beetles. They are white to off-white with a brown head and six legs. Grubs damage grass by eating the roots. Seriously damaged turfgrass can be rolled back like a carpet. When the grass is rolled back, grubs may be found lying in a C-shaped position in the soil. Grubs are most easily controlled during the time they are actively feeding. Billbugs Billbugs are small, dark-colored beetles with snouts. Adults lay eggs in turfgrass items in late spring. The eggs hatch into legless larvae. The larvae eat their way down the stems and into the crowns. Adults feed on leaves and stems, but cause less damage than the larvae. Damage shows up in late summer as small dead patches of turfgrass. Damaged plants break off at the crown if pulled on. Sod Webworms Sod webworm caterpillars are 1 inch or less in length. They are off-white with parallel rows of small dark spots. The adults are cigar-shaped, buff- colored moths. The caterpillars chew off grass stems and leaves above the soil line. Damage shows up as small dead spots. When many sod webworms are present, the spots join to form large, irregu- larly shaped brown patches. Adult sod webworms do not damage turf grasses. Chinch Bugs Full-grown chinch bugs are about 1A inch long. They are rectangular black bugs with a white area on their back. Turfgrass infested with chinch bugs is a sickly off-color at first, with brown and green blades intermixed. Later, large irregular dead patches show up. Young and adult chinch bugs suck sap from turfgrass blades. The bugs may be found deep in the thatch at the outer edge of the brown patches. Insect Control Insects that attack turfgrass at or below the soil surface can be controlled only by directing the ------- pesticide at the soil surface and watering it in to contact the pests. Foliage-feeding insects can be controlled by directing the insecticide at the turf- grass foliage. Watering in an application directed at foliage feeders will move the insecticide below the area where the insect pest is feeding and the desired control will be lost. In some areas, preventive appli- cations of insecticides will minimize damage from soil insect pests. More than one pest may be causing damage at the same time. Each may require differ- ent timing and placement of insecticide for control. Be sure to consider this when you develop a treat- ment schedule. Your local extension agent can help you identify pest problems and select the cor- rect pesticide. VERTEBRATE PESTS Vertebrate animals may damage large areas of turfgrass while they are searching for grubs or other soil-infesting insects. They include: mice, voles, skunks, moles, raccoons, foxes, squirrels, and birds. Control of turfgrass-damaging insects also helps control damage by vertebrate animals, because it reduces their food supply. PHYTOTOXICITY Phytotoxicity is undesirable injury to plants. Symp- toms of phytotoxicity include: leaf drop, stunting, overgrowth, discolored foliage, leaf curl, and stem distortion. The cause of phytotoxicity may be easy to deter- mine or it may be subtle and hidden. Pesticides can cause phytotoxicity. Other causes that create similar symptoms are: insects and disease agents, insufficient moisture, improper fertilization, and other adverse growing conditions. Factors that may contribute to pesticide phytotoxic- ity include: high air temperature during and immediately after pesticide application, excessive rates of pesticide application, too little water, uneven distribution of pesticide, mixing liquids or emulsifiable concentrates with wettable powders, mixing fertilizers with pesticides, variety and species differences. Take special care to avoid injury to landscape plants and turfgrass when using herbicides. Some herbi- cides leave residues in spray tanks that will injure desirable plants. Use separate sprayers for herbicides. ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS To control drift and vaporization: Apply pesticides when wind speeds are low. Use lowest practical operating pressure and largest practical nozzle opening. Keep nozzle as close to target as possible. Avoid using airblast sprayers and dusters when working near sensitive plants and areas inhabited by animals. Do not apply herbicides with airblast sprayers. When possible, select products with low volatility. To control the adverse effects of pesticide movement: Use special precautions when using pesticides on slopes. Select the least hazardous pesticide that will do the job. Use the lowest effective rate of application. If possible, maintain a buffer zone between the area to be treated and sensitive areas. Use mulches. Consider the chances of heavy rainfall. Regulate the amount and duration of irrigation. Be aware of the potential for ground water con- tamination. Avoid carrying treated material or the pesticide residue from the target area to other areas. You must know the persistence of pesticides you apply to ornamentals and turfgrass, especially where: adjacent areas may be affected, treated soil is used to grow other plants, or humans, pels, or other animals are present. ------- Repeated applications of some pesticides to the same area may cause harmful residues. PROTECTING ANIMALS AND PEOPLE Keep animals and people away during application and until spray has dried or dust has settled. Keep them away from areas of potential drift and runoff. Remove toys, pet food dishes, birdfeeders, and other articles from the site before applying a pesti- cide. Do not use pesticides when people or pets can- not be excluded during the reentry period specified on the label. APPLICATION Methods of application vary with: the kind of pesticide, the host, and the target pest. Application equipment must be able to deliver a thorough coverage of the correct amount of pesti- cide to the plant parts which need protection. Low-pressure, low-volume sprayers or granular ap- plicators can be used for control of: soil or foliage pests of ornamentals, * diseases or insects on turfgrass, or weeds. High-pressure hydraulic or airblast sprayers are not often used on ornamentals or turfgrass. You can use them for spraying large trees. AREA MEASUREMENTS To determine how much pesticide you will need to do a job, you must measure the area to be treated. If the area is a rectangle, circle, or triangle, simple formulas may be used. Rectangles: The area of a rectangle is found by multiplying the length by the width. Area = Length X Width. W Circles: The area of a circle is the radius (one- half the diameter) squared and then multiplied by 3,14. Area = 3.14 X the radius squared. Triangles: The area of a triangle is one-half the base multiplied by the height. bxh Area= B Irregularly shaped tutfgrass areas often can be reduced to one or more of these common shapes. Calculate thj area of each and add them together to obtain the total area. Example: Area A+B+C = Total Area Another way is to establish a line down the middle of the property for the length, and then measure from side to side at several points along this line. Areas with very irregular shape require more side to side measurements. The average of the side measurements can be used as the width. The area is then calculated as a rectangle. Area = Length X Width. Example: 10 ------- WEIGHTS AND MEASURES Length = line AB line C+D+E+F+G Width = 5 A third method is to convert the area into a circle. From a center point measure distance to the edge of the area in 10 to 20 increments. Average these measurements to find the average radius. Then cal- culate the area, using the formula for a circle. Area = 3.14 X the radius squared. Example: Weights 1 ounce 16 ounces I gallon water - 28.35 grams = 1 pound = 453.59 grams = 8.34 pounds = 3.785 liters = 3.78 kilograms Liquid Measures 1 fluid ounce = 16 fluid ounces = 2 pints = 8 pints=4 quarts = Length l foot 3 feet 16'/2 feet 5,280 feet Area 1 square foot 9 square feet 43,560 square feet Speed 1.466 feet per second 2 tablespoons= 29.573 milliliters 1 pint =0.473 liter 1 quart = 0.946 liter 1 gallon = 3.785 liters = 30.48 centimeters = 1 yard = 0.9144 meter = 1 rod=5.029 meters = 320 rods =1 mile= 1,6 kilometers 929.03 cm* 1 square yard= 0.836 square meter 160 square rods= 1 acre = 0.405 hectare 88 feet per minute = 1 mph = 1.6 kilometers per hour(kph) Area = (3.14) X line A+B+C+D+E+F+ G+H+I+J+K+L 12 Volume 27 cubic feet I cubic foot I cubic yard = 0.765 cubic meter 7.5 gallons = 28.317 cubic decimeters 11 ------- ------- ------- ------- |