APPLY PESTICIDES CORRECTLY
A GUIDE FOR COMMERCIAL APPLICATORS
ORNAMENTAL AND
TURFGRASS
PEST CONTROL
EPA
730/
1976.6
U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY
OFFICE OF PESTICIDE PROGRAMS
WASHINGTON, D.C. 20460
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Acknowledgments 1
Preface 1
Ornamentals 2
Introduction 2
Disease Agents 2
Weeds 3
Insects and Mites 4
Vertebrate Pests 5
Turf grass 5
Introduction 5
Disease Agents 6
Weeds 7
Insects 8
Vertebrate Pests 9
Phytotoxicity 9
Environmental Concerns 9
Protecting Animals and People 10
Application 10
Area Measurements 10
Weights and Measures 11
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
PREFACE
This guide has been developed by North Carolina
State University under U.S. Environmental Protec-
tion Agency (EPA) contract number 68-01-2903.
This contract was issued by the Training Branch,
Operations Division, Office of Pesticide Programs,
EPA. The leader of this group effort was Robert L.
Robertson, North Carolina State University. Editors
were Mary Ann Wamsley, EPA, and Donna M.
Vermeire, North Carolina State University.
Contributors were:
John F. Ahrens, Connecticut Agricultural Experi-
ment Station
Jack D. Butler, Colorado State University
Huston B. Couch, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and
State University
Douglas Gaydon, Environmental Protection
Agency, Region IV, Atlanta, Georgia
William M. Hoffman, Environmental Protection
Agency, Washington, D.C.
Palmer Maples, Jr., Golf Course Superintendents
Association of America, Atlanta, Georgia
Richard L. Miller, The Ohio State University
Federal regulations establish general and specific
standards that you must meet before you can use
certain pesticides. Your State will provide material
which you may study to help you meet the general
standards.
This guide contains basic information to help you
meet the specific standards for applicators who are
engaged in ornamental and turfgrass pest control.
Because the guide was prepared to cover the entire
nation, some information important to your State
may not be included. The State agency in charge of
your training can provide the other materials you
should study.
This guide will give you information about:
recognition and control of ornamental pests,
recognition and control of turfgrass pests, and
environmental concerns for ornamental and turf-
grass pest control.
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ORNAMENTALS
INTRODUCTION
Some plant damage is caused by living pests, in-
cluding:
disease agents,
» weeds,
insects and mites, and
* vertebrate animals.
Other causes of plant problems are:
* too little, too much, or imbalanced fertilizer,
pesticide injury,
improper planting and pruning,
root girdling,
soil conditions (such as improper drainage, com-
paction) ,
mechanical damage (by such things as earth-
moving equipment, mowers, and hand tools),
* pollution damage, and
natural aging of plants (often mistaken for dam-
age caused by insects and diseases).
You must diagnose the problem before using con-
trol methods. Can you find an insect or recognize
the symptoms of a disease? Pinpointing causes of
plant damage usually requires close observation.
DISEASE AGENTS
Fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, mycoplasmas,
and parasitic plants cause diseases of landscape
plants. Most common diseases are caused by fungi.
The environment is of major importance to the
development of disease in woody plants. For ex-
ample:
A sudden drop in temperature in the fall or early
winter increases the susceptibility of plants to
cankers caused by fungi.
Waterlogging of the soil contributes to the de-
velopment of certain root rots.
Long periods of rain can cause an increase of
such fungal diseases as scab and leaf spots.
The more common diseases of landscape plants are
described below.
Vascular Wilt
Vascular wilt fungi of shade trees are of two types:
* those that infect roots (Verticillium wilt), and
those that infect stems (Dutch elm disease).
The organism that causes Vericillium wilt is pres-
ent in the soil. It spreads upward from the roots
through sapwood and interferes with water move-
ment and other plant functions. Dutch elm disease
is transmitted by elm bark beetles.
In both diseases, leaf wilting, browning between
veins, and leaf drop usually begin in one branch
and progress through the tree. Dead and dying
branches, sparseness of the crown, and reduced
twig growth are common symptoms. Another is a
discolored streaking in the wood of affected
branches or in the main trunk.
Leaf Spots
Fungal leaf spots occur on most kinds of orna-
mental plants. They usually appear first on the
lower leaves. They may begin as dark brown, pin-
head-sized spots which sometimes have a yellow
halo. Spots may enlarge to cover an entire leaf.
Small, black structures the size of pinheads are in
the center of many leaf spots. As the spots become
more abundant, leaves may yellow, die, and drop.
Leaf spots are more common in the early spring
and fall. Wet conditions usually are necessary for
infection. Healthy plants become infected when the
fungus spores are:
splashed onto them from infected leaves on the
ground,
blown to them by the wind, or
carried to them on clothing and tools.
Scab
Apples, crab apples, and pyracantha are suscep-
tible to the scab fungus. Symptoms include:
spots on leaves and fruit, and
premature defoliation.
Scab first appears as olive-green spots on the
underside of new leaves. These spots become brown
and velvety; then leaves turn yellow and drop pre-
maturely. Fruit may become infected at any time
with circular, olive-green spots that later become
brown or black. The fungi overwinter in infected
leaves and produce spores in the spring.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew occurs on plants both in green-
houses and outdoors. Common hosts are rose,
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zinnia, crab apple, euonymus, and crape myrtle.
Powdery mildew may produce a white powdery
coating on the leaves, buds, or stems of highly
susceptible plants. The new growth is stunted and
curled, and leaves may become dry and drop. The
flower buds are often deformed and may fail to
open properly.
Bacterial Fire Blight
Certain varieties of apple, flowering crab, pear,
pyracantha, mountain ash, and quince are highly
susceptible to fire blight. Hawthorn, rose, coton-
easter, spirea, and amelanchier are affected less
seriously.
The signs of fire blight are:
Blossoms and leaves suddenly wilt, turn dark
brown, shrivel, and die, but usually remain
attached.
Secondary infections start in the small twigs, pro-
gress down the stem, and may involve whole
branches.
Blighted terminals may bend to look like a shep-
herd's crook.
Dark streaking of the wood extends several
inches beyond the diseased area.
Cankers on limbs are shrunken, and are dark
brown to purple. An orange gum or slime often
oozes from them.
The baceria overwinter in cankers on the plant.
They are spread by:
* wind-blown rain,
insects, and
pruning tools.
Nematodes
Many nematodes live in the soil and feed on plant
roots. Some kinds cause small knots on roots; others
kill the tips of feeder roots.
The above-ground symptoms of nematode damage
may include:
yellowing of foliage,
stunting, and
a general decline of the plant.
It is difficult to distinguish between the symptoms
of nematode damage and root rot infection. You
may need to have soil and plant samples examined
in a laboratory to confirm a nematode infestation.
Root-knot of boxwood is an example of a nematode
disease of ornamentals.
Disease Control
Types of chemicals available for disease control
include:
Protective chemicals applied to foliage, flowers,
and fruit. They are subject to weathering and
must be reapplied regularly.
Systemic chemicals. These can be applied less
frequently.
Soil fumigants. Use of these to control soil-borne
fungi, bacteria, and nematodes is economically
feasible in the production and establishment of
high-value ornamentals.
There are no known chemicals for control of virus.
With few exceptions, disease-controlling pesticides
will not eradicate disease-producing agents after
infection has occurred. Careful management, in-
cluding pruning out of dead and dying plant parts
and the removal of infected leaves, coupled with
preventive use of the correct fungicides and bac-
tericides, will prevent further spread. In some situa-
tions, routine preventive use of a pesticide is the
only practical way to protect highly susceptible
plants. Your local extension agent can help you
identify your pest problems and select the correct
pesticide.
WEEDS
Many kinds of weeds are pests in landscape plant-
ings.
Annual Weeds
Annual weeds are most troublesome in intensively
cultivated ornamentals. Common annual weeds in
ornamentals include:
grasses (crabgrass, foxtailgrass, fall panicum,
and barnyardgrass) which germinate during the
spring and summer,
annual bluegrass and annual bromegrass, which
germinate during the late summer or fall,
annual broadleaf weeds (purslane, pigweed, and
lambsquarters) which germinate during the warm
season and are killed by hard frost, and
those that survive freezing temperatures (horse-
weed, common chickwced, bittercress, and
pepperweed).
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Biennial and Perennial Weeds
Biennial and perennial weeds are most trouble-
some in uncultivated ornamentals. They have under-
ground plant parts that survive from year to year.
They are spread in several ways:
Many spread easily when carried in soil, in root
balls, and on cultivating equipment, as well as by
seeds. These include Bermuda grass, Johnson
grass, quackgrass, nutsedge, mugwort, and wild
garlic.
Seeds of perennial weeds such as dandelion and
goldenrod are spread primarily by wind and
water.
Horsetail rush is spread by underground plant
parts and by spores.
Weed Control
Consider both the weeds and the ornamental plants
when choosing control methods. You can use cul-
tural methods, mechanical methods, herbicides, or
combinations of the three. Many weeds are re-
sistant to some cultural or chemical controls. No
herbicide is safe for al! ornamental plants. Newly
planted ornamentals usually are more easily injured
by herbicides than established plantings. The label
will tell you how to use a herbicide safely and
effectively.
Herbicides kill weeds throueh the leaves or the
roots or both. Selective herbicides kill some plants
without killing others. Nonselective herbicides kill
most plants in the area of application.
The main types of herbicides used in or around
ornamentals are:
preemergence herbicides,
postemergence herbicides, and
soil fumigants and sterilants.
Persistence varies with the herbicide and the dos-
age. Persistent herbicides may leave residues that
may injure a sensitive crop planted later. Repeated
applications of persistent herbicides also can injure
ornamental plants under certain soil and climatic
conditions. Granular formulations are an efficient
way to apply preemergence herbicides. Postemer-
gence herbicides usually are less persistent than
preemergence herbicides. They usually must be
applied as a directed spray.
Soil fumigants are nonselective and cannot be
used in the root zones of desirable plants. Use fumi-
gants before planting. The label will specify waiting
periods between treatment and planting.
Soil sterilants will control most weeds for long
periods of time. In humid regions, however, no
material is completely effective for more than one
season. Soil sterilants are nonselective. They can
damage nearby trees, shrubs, and turfgrass through
root uptake or movement of the chemical by wind
or water.
INSECTS AND MITES
Ornamenal plants are damaged by many kinds
of insects and mites. Some suck sap from plants,
others chew on or tunnel in plant parts or cause
damage in other ways.
Some plants are very susceptible to insects and
mites and require intensive pest control. Other
plants are rarely attacked by insects or mites. Pest
insect infestations vary from year to year, and
control is not always needed.
There are several kinds of insects and mites that
you should recognize. They can be grouped accord-
ing to the part of the plant they feed on and the
kind of injury they cause.
Insects and Mites that Damage Leaves,
Buds, Fruits, and Flowers
CATERPILLARS are the larvae of butterflies or
moths. Caterpillars chew plant parts and may com-
pletely defoliate a plant. Some form webs or tents
on the branches. A few bore into the plant and feed
inside. Some have more than one generation per year.
BEETLES are hardshelled insects. Many have spots,
stripes, or other markings. Both adults and larvae
may damage plant parts by boring into or chewing
them. Some beetles are active only at night.
LEAFMINEilS are the larvae of small flies, wasps,
moths, or beetles. They feed inside the leaf. Damage
appears as brown or discolored blotches or winding
trails on the leaf. There may be more than one gen-
eration per year.
APHIDS are small, soft-bodied insects that suck sap
through tiny needle-like hiouthparts. There may be
several generations in a single season. They may be
green, red, or black. They feed on stems, terminals,
or undersides of leaves.
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Foliage often curls or is otherwise distorted. Some
aphids transmit plant disease. Aphids produce
honeydew, a sweet liquid which collects on the
foliage. A black sooty mold may grow on the honey-
dew. Sooty mold is controlled by controlling the
aphids.
MITES are closely related to insects. They are hard
to see without magnification. Eggs, young, and
adults all may be present on an infested plant at the
same time. Some form webs on the lower leaf sur-
face. Mites damage leaves by sucking sap. The
foliage becomes stippled and may turn off-green, yel-
low, or orange. Mites may produce several genera-
tions in a single season.
LACEBUGS are small, broad, flat insects with
clear, lace-like wings. Eggs, young, and adults all
may be on a plant at the same time. Both adults and
young suck sap and cause off-colored speckles, yel-
lowing, and leaf drop. Many small, black, varnish-
like spots of excrement on the undersides of leaves
are evidence of lacebug infestation.
Insect Pests of Trunks, Stems, or
Branches
SCALE INSECTS AND MEALYBUGS may kill
large branches or whole plants. Some attack leaves
and buds. Both insects secrete a protective waxy
substance which covers them.
Mealybugs move on the plants as both young and
adults. Newly hatched scale insects (crawlers) move
around on the plant. Mature scale insects, however,
are securely fastened to the plant surface. They may
be circular, oval, or pear-shaped. Large numbers
may form crusts on the plant. They lay eggs under-
neath the protective covering.
BORERS are larvae of some moths and beetles.
They do the most damage in the tissue just under the
bark. Plants in poor health are more susceptible to
attack by borers. One to several years may be re-
quired to complete a life cycle.
Insect Pests of Roots
GRUBS are the larvae of hardshelled beetles or
weevils. They usually are white with brown heads.
Some have legs; others are legless. Grubs eat plant
roots and may weaken or kill a plant.
ROOT BORERS are the larvae of moths or beetles.
They are shaped like grubs or caterpillars. They are
usually a whitish color. Root borers damage plants
by eating or hollowing out plant roots and crowns.
ROOT-FEEDING APHIDS weaken the root sys-
tems of plants. They damage roots by sucking sap,
which may cause galls to form. Root aphids look
like foliar-feeding aphids. Some are serious pests of
foliage as well as roots.
GALLS are swellings of plant parts. Many kinds of
insects and mites cause galls and live inside them.
Galls are unsightly but usually are not harmful to
the health of a plant.
Insect and Mite Control
To control insects and mites, direct the pesticide
at the stage of the insect or mite that is causing the
damage. In some situations, preventive use of insec-
ticides may be necessary to protect plants from in-
festations. Your decision to use a preventive insec-
ticide should be based on a previous history of in-
festation in your area. Your local extension agent
can help to identify your pest problems and select
the correct pesticide.
VERTEBRATE PESTS
Vertebrate animals may damage ornamentals in
several ways. Some (such as mice and moles) feed
on roots and crowns. Others (including mice, rabbits,
deer, and woodpeckers) feed on stems, trunks, twigs,
or foliage.
Barriers, trapping, repellents, and pesticides all help
control vertebrate pests. Control of the insects on
which vertebrate pests feed is essential.
TURFGRASS
INTRODUCTION
Pest control in turfgrass includes:
good cultural practices, and
chemical pest control.
Turfgrass problems often result from causes other
than pests. These other causes include:
improper watering,
improper fertilization practices,
injury from pesticides,
accumulation of excessive thatch,
improper selection of turfgrass species,
improper mowing height,
poor root systems,
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soil that is either too acid or too alkaline, or
an accumulation of soluble salts in the soil.
are most severe on grass grown under high nitrogen
fertilization.
Be sure to consider these factors when diagnosing
and treating turfgrass problems.
DISEASE AGENTS
The major diseases of turfgrass are caused bj:
fungi, which can cause root rots and foliar dis-
eases, and
nematodes, which feed on the roots.
Stands of diseased grass may look thin and un-
thrifty or contain streaks or circular patches of dead
grass. Some of the more common diseases of turf-
grasses are:
Helminthosporium
Helminthosporium causes leaf spots and root rots.
Spots on the leaves usually begin as small purplish,
reddish-brown areas about the size of a pinhead.
These enlarge to form tan to light-brown spots with
reddish-brown margins. When the disease is severe,
the spots girdle the leaves at the base and cause them
to yellow. A severe infection may cause a general
fading out of turfgrass. Helminthosporium diseases
are more severe during long periods of wet weather.
They develop best under high nitrogen fertilization.
Rusts
Symptoms are light-yellow flecks on the leaves.
As these spots enlarge, the surfaces of the leaves
rupture. Dry, reddish-brown pustules develop. At
this stage, the spores readily rub off. The grass first
becomes light yellow and then rapidly turns tan or
light brown as the grass leaves die. Rusts develop
best in moderate air temperatures. The disease is
less severe on rye grasses grown under high nitro-
gen fertilization.
Pythium Blights
Pythium blights are among the most destructive
turfgrass diseases. Grasses most commonly affected
are bentgrasses, Bermuda grasses, fescues, and rye
grasses. The disease is first seen as small, irregularly-
shaped, watersoaked, greasy patches V4 to 4 inches
in diameter. A cottony growth may be present early
in the morning. Diseased areas may eventually
range from 1 to 10 feet in diameter. Pythium
blights develop best in warm, humid weather. They
Rhizoctonia Brown Patch
Under conditions of close mowing, Rhizoctonia
brown patch appears as irregularly shaped patches
of blighted turfgrass that range in size from a few
inches to 2 feet or larger. At first, the patches are
purple-green in color. They then fade to a light
brown. When the grass is wet, the diseased patches
frequently have dark, purplish margins (smoke
rings).
When high mowing is practiced, the leaves wither
and rapidly fade to a light brown. The patches may
be irregular and range up to 50 feet in diameter.
Rhizoctonia brown patch develops best during long
periods of humid weather. The disease usually
occurs during hot weather (80-90 degrees F).
Grass grown under high nitrogen fertilization is
more susceptible to the disease.
Snow Mold
Pink and gray snow molds are turfgrass diseases
that occur in cold weather. A snow cover creates an
ideal situation for the diseases to develop, but they
often occur in the absence of snow.
Snow molds are seen as small patches of tan to
light-brown grass, 2 to 4 inches or larger. Pink snow
mold spots usually are smaller than gray snow mold
spots. With gray snow molds, hard, dark-red bodies
are embedded in the leaves.
Slime Molds
Slime molds appear as dull-gray to light-blue masses
of powdery growth on the surfaces of the leaves.
They are most common during long periods of light
rainfall. Although they are unsightly, they do not
damage the grass. Controls are not necessary.
Fusarium Blight
Fusarium blight causes brown patches 1 to 3 feet
in diameter. The patches are similar to those caused
by other turfgrass diseases, but they have green
tufts (frog eyes) in the center. Fusarium blight is
most severe during periods of high day and night
temperatures. Lush grass with an accumulation of
1 inch or more of thatch is highly susceptible to
severe outbreaks.
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Fairy Rings
Fairy rings are seen as circles of darker green, faster-
growing turfgrass ranging from 2 to several hundred
feet in diameter. They are often surrounded by
mushrooms, toadstools, or puffballs. These fungi
may prevent water from penetrating the soil.
Nematodes
Many kinds of nematodes feed on the roots of
turfgrasses and reduce their vigor. Nematode in-
jury may be confused with nutritional problems,
insufficient water, compact soil, or any other factor
which restricts root development.
Symptoms of nematode injury include:
* thinning or completely killed areas,
pale green to yellow color,
excessive wilting, and
poor response to fertilization.
The best way to identify nematode problems is
with a laboratory examination of soil or plants.
Disease Controls
Disease-producing agents in turfgrasses can be
minimized and in some cases controlled th'ough the
use of good management practices. Turfgrass
fungicides are available for use as preventive sprays
or granules. When an outbreak of a disease agent
occurs, apply preventive fungicides immediately.
After infection has occurred, use a preventive
fungicide to protect against future infection. Timing
of protective fungicide applications should be based
on a knowledge of:
the life cycle of the fungus, and
weather conditions that are best for its parasitic
activities.
Preventive use of a fungicide is sometimes war-
ranted when the location has a history of turfgrass
disease. The routine use of fungicides can prevent
disease outbreaks in turfgrass, but is an expensive
and potentially harmful practice. Your local exten-
sion agent can help you identify pest problems and
select the correct pesticide.
WEEDS
Any plant can be considered a weed if it is grow-
ing where it is not wanted. Bentgrass, for example,
would be a weed in a bluegrass lawn. To plan a
good weed control program, you must:
identify the desirable turfgrass,
identify the existing weeds, and
know what other weeds are likely to become a
problem.
Annual Weeds
Annual weeds complete their life cycle in less
than one year. Because climatic conditions influence
the timing of the life cycle, the correct time for
control varies from place to place, year to year, and
from one species to another. It is often desirable to
establish turfgrass in the fall so the freezing weather
will control summer annual weeds. In established
turfgrass, the chemical control of summer annual
weeds after midsummer may not be necessary or
desirable.
SUMMER ANNUAL WEEDS common to turfgrass
are:
Broadleaf Weeds Grass Weeds
henbit
knotweed
spurge
crabgrass
goosegrass
barnyardgrass
foxtailgrass
stinkgrass
WINTER ANNUALS are common in new turfgrass.
After the first year, good management and dense
turfgrass usually provide satisfactory control. Ex-
amples are:
Broadleaf Grass Weeds
common chickweed cheat
shepherdspurse
Biennial Weeds
Biennial weeds normally occur at the same time
as perennial broadleaf weeds. Controls are similar.
Examples are: roundleaf mallow and wild carrot.
Perennial Weeds
Perennials, both broadleaf and grasses, occur widely
as turfgrass weeds. Examples are:
Broadleaf Weeds Grass Weeds
dandelion
wild garlic
dichondra
plantain
mouse-ear chickweed
red sorrel
Bermuda grass
bentgrass
tall fescue
quackgrass
nimblewill
torpedograss
nutsedge
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Weed Control
The presence of weeds in turfgrass does not always
require the use of herbicides. In areas that con-
tain sensitive plants, it may be better to avoid the
use of herbicides than to risk injury. In some loca-
tions, any kind of plant cover may be better than
dead plants or bare ground.
Granular formulations are effective for pre-
emergence herbicides. Sprays are better for post-
emergence control where foliar coverage is needed.
BROADLEAF WEEDSSeveral postemergence
herbicides are used to selectively control annual,
biennial, and perennial broadleaf weeds in turf-
grasses. They can be used alone or as combinations
of more than one active ingredient. Spring and fall
applications of postemergence herbicides normally
give satisfactory control and reduce the possibility
of damage to nontarget plants. Young weeds are
usually more susceptible to herbicides. Spot treat-
ments are best for scattered weed populations.
Weather conditions affect control results.
GRASS WEEDSControl of annual grasses is best
achieved with:
preemergence herbicides for general infestations,
spot treatment with postemergence herbicides for
localized infestations.
Few herbicides are safe for use on newly seeded
turfgrass. Some preemergence herbicides applied in
the spring adversely affect germination of turf-
grasses seeded in the fall. Certain varieties of turf-
grasses are more prone to injury by some herbi-
cides. Check labels for precautions.
Perennial grass weeds are the most difficult to
control. No herbicides are available which will con-
trol these weeds without damaging cool season
turfgrass. Some will selectively control them in
warm season turfgrass. Soil fumigants and nonselec-
tive herbicides are sometimes used.
INSECTS
When examining turfgrass for insects, look for:
thinned grass stands,
dying or dead patches,
discolored or withered blades,
chewed or frayed blades,
frass or webbing,
* small holes, mounds, or burrows, or
presence of large numbers of bird and animal
droppings.
Some of the more troublesome turfgrass insect
pests are:
Grubs
Grubs are the larvae of hardshelled beetles. They
are white to off-white with a brown head and six
legs. Grubs damage grass by eating the roots.
Seriously damaged turfgrass can be rolled back like
a carpet. When the grass is rolled back, grubs may
be found lying in a C-shaped position in the soil.
Grubs are most easily controlled during the time
they are actively feeding.
Billbugs
Billbugs are small, dark-colored beetles with snouts.
Adults lay eggs in turfgrass items in late spring.
The eggs hatch into legless larvae. The larvae eat
their way down the stems and into the crowns.
Adults feed on leaves and stems, but cause less
damage than the larvae. Damage shows up in
late summer as small dead patches of turfgrass.
Damaged plants break off at the crown if pulled on.
Sod Webworms
Sod webworm caterpillars are 1 inch or less in
length. They are off-white with parallel rows of
small dark spots. The adults are cigar-shaped, buff-
colored moths. The caterpillars chew off grass
stems and leaves above the soil line. Damage shows
up as small dead spots. When many sod webworms
are present, the spots join to form large, irregu-
larly shaped brown patches. Adult sod webworms
do not damage turf grasses.
Chinch Bugs
Full-grown chinch bugs are about 1A inch long.
They are rectangular black bugs with a white area
on their back. Turfgrass infested with chinch bugs
is a sickly off-color at first, with brown and green
blades intermixed. Later, large irregular dead
patches show up. Young and adult chinch bugs
suck sap from turfgrass blades. The bugs may be
found deep in the thatch at the outer edge of the
brown patches.
Insect Control
Insects that attack turfgrass at or below the soil
surface can be controlled only by directing the
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pesticide at the soil surface and watering it in to
contact the pests. Foliage-feeding insects can be
controlled by directing the insecticide at the turf-
grass foliage.
Watering in an application directed at foliage
feeders will move the insecticide below the area
where the insect pest is feeding and the desired
control will be lost. In some areas, preventive appli-
cations of insecticides will minimize damage from
soil insect pests. More than one pest may be causing
damage at the same time. Each may require differ-
ent timing and placement of insecticide for control.
Be sure to consider this when you develop a treat-
ment schedule. Your local extension agent can
help you identify pest problems and select the cor-
rect pesticide.
VERTEBRATE PESTS
Vertebrate animals may damage large areas of
turfgrass while they are searching for grubs or
other soil-infesting insects. They include:
mice,
voles,
skunks,
moles,
raccoons,
foxes,
squirrels, and
birds.
Control of turfgrass-damaging insects also helps
control damage by vertebrate animals, because it
reduces their food supply.
PHYTOTOXICITY
Phytotoxicity is undesirable injury to plants. Symp-
toms of phytotoxicity include:
leaf drop,
stunting,
overgrowth,
discolored foliage,
leaf curl, and
stem distortion.
The cause of phytotoxicity may be easy to deter-
mine or it may be subtle and hidden. Pesticides can
cause phytotoxicity. Other causes that create similar
symptoms are:
insects and disease agents,
insufficient moisture,
improper fertilization, and
other adverse growing conditions.
Factors that may contribute to pesticide phytotoxic-
ity include:
high air temperature during and immediately
after pesticide application,
excessive rates of pesticide application,
too little water,
uneven distribution of pesticide,
mixing liquids or emulsifiable concentrates with
wettable powders,
mixing fertilizers with pesticides,
variety and species differences.
Take special care to avoid injury to landscape plants
and turfgrass when using herbicides. Some herbi-
cides leave residues in spray tanks that will injure
desirable plants. Use separate sprayers for herbicides.
ENVIRONMENTAL
CONCERNS
To control drift and vaporization:
Apply pesticides when wind speeds are low.
Use lowest practical operating pressure and
largest practical nozzle opening.
Keep nozzle as close to target as possible.
Avoid using airblast sprayers and dusters when
working near sensitive plants and areas inhabited
by animals.
Do not apply herbicides with airblast sprayers.
When possible, select products with low volatility.
To control the adverse effects of pesticide movement:
Use special precautions when using pesticides on
slopes.
Select the least hazardous pesticide that will do
the job.
Use the lowest effective rate of application.
If possible, maintain a buffer zone between the
area to be treated and sensitive areas.
Use mulches.
Consider the chances of heavy rainfall.
Regulate the amount and duration of irrigation.
Be aware of the potential for ground water con-
tamination.
Avoid carrying treated material or the pesticide
residue from the target area to other areas.
You must know the persistence of pesticides you
apply to ornamentals and turfgrass, especially
where:
adjacent areas may be affected,
treated soil is used to grow other plants, or
humans, pels, or other animals are present.
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Repeated applications of some pesticides to the same
area may cause harmful residues.
PROTECTING ANIMALS
AND PEOPLE
Keep animals and people away during application
and until spray has dried or dust has settled. Keep
them away from areas of potential drift and runoff.
Remove toys, pet food dishes, birdfeeders, and
other articles from the site before applying a pesti-
cide. Do not use pesticides when people or pets can-
not be excluded during the reentry period specified
on the label.
APPLICATION
Methods of application vary with:
the kind of pesticide,
the host, and
the target pest.
Application equipment must be able to deliver a
thorough coverage of the correct amount of pesti-
cide to the plant parts which need protection.
Low-pressure, low-volume sprayers or granular ap-
plicators can be used for control of:
soil or foliage pests of ornamentals,
* diseases or insects on turfgrass, or
weeds.
High-pressure hydraulic or airblast sprayers are
not often used on ornamentals or turfgrass. You
can use them for spraying large trees.
AREA MEASUREMENTS
To determine how much pesticide you will need
to do a job, you must measure the area to be
treated. If the area is a rectangle, circle, or triangle,
simple formulas may be used.
Rectangles: The area of a rectangle is found by
multiplying the length by the width.
Area = Length X Width.
W
Circles: The area of a circle is the radius (one-
half the diameter) squared and then multiplied by
3,14.
Area = 3.14 X the radius squared.
Triangles: The area of a triangle is one-half the base
multiplied by the height.
bxh
Area=
B
Irregularly shaped tutfgrass areas often can be
reduced to one or more of these common shapes.
Calculate thj area of each and add them together
to obtain the total area.
Example:
Area A+B+C = Total Area
Another way is to establish a line down the middle of
the property for the length, and then measure from
side to side at several points along this line. Areas
with very irregular shape require more side to side
measurements. The average of the side measurements
can be used as the width. The area is then calculated
as a rectangle.
Area = Length X Width. Example:
10
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WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
Length = line AB
line C+D+E+F+G
Width =
5
A third method is to convert the area into a circle.
From a center point measure distance to the edge of
the area in 10 to 20 increments. Average these
measurements to find the average radius. Then cal-
culate the area, using the formula for a circle.
Area = 3.14 X the radius squared.
Example:
Weights
1 ounce
16 ounces
I gallon water
- 28.35 grams
= 1 pound = 453.59 grams
= 8.34 pounds = 3.785 liters =
3.78 kilograms
Liquid Measures
1 fluid ounce =
16 fluid ounces =
2 pints =
8 pints=4 quarts =
Length
l foot
3 feet
16'/2 feet
5,280 feet
Area
1 square foot
9 square feet
43,560 square feet
Speed
1.466 feet per
second
2 tablespoons=
29.573 milliliters
1 pint =0.473 liter
1 quart = 0.946 liter
1 gallon = 3.785 liters
= 30.48 centimeters
= 1 yard = 0.9144 meter
= 1 rod=5.029 meters
= 320 rods =1 mile=
1,6 kilometers
929.03 cm*
1 square yard=
0.836 square meter
160 square rods= 1 acre =
0.405 hectare
88 feet per minute =
1 mph = 1.6 kilometers per
hour(kph)
Area = (3.14) X
line A+B+C+D+E+F+
G+H+I+J+K+L
12
Volume
27 cubic feet
I cubic foot
I cubic yard =
0.765 cubic meter
7.5 gallons =
28.317 cubic decimeters
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