For More Information
For additional copies of this brochure; a copy of
the brochure Catalytic Woodstoves: Installation,
Operation, and Maintenance; or a copy of the
brochure Buying an EPA-Certified Woodstove,
write to:
Public Information Center (PM-211B)
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
401 M Street, SW
Washington, D.C. 20460
For a current list of EPA-certified woodstoves or
for more information about wood burning and
EPA's regulations, write or call:
Wood Heater Program (EN-341W)
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
401 M Street, SW
Washington, D.C. 20460
(703)308-8688
United States
Environmental Protection
Agency
EPA-22A-4002
March 1992
Air And Radiation
•
v°/EPA Noncatalytic
Woodstoves
Installation,
Operation,
and
Maintenance
*»
01
O
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Washington, D.C. 20460
Printed on Recycled Paper
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EPA -RTF LIBRARY
This brochure was prepared by EPA and Radian Corporation under
EPA Contract No. 68-02-4464, Work Assignment No. 139.
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Why You Should Read This Brochure
A
s an owner of a noncatalytic woodstove,
the way you use your stove can pay
dividends for your family's and neigh-
bors' health and your pocketbook. This EPA
brochure presents important tips you can
easily use with most noncatalytic wood-
stoves, and will supplement the model-
specific instructions found in your owner's
manual. In all cases, follow the instructions
that come with your stove. Along with your
owner's manual, this brochure can help you
with installation, and help you operate and
maintain your stove to keep the air you
breathe cleaner, reduce your fuel and
maintenance costs, and make your home
safer.
There are several steps to getting the
fullest benefit from your stove, such as sizing
and selection, installation, operation, and
maintenance. A companion brochure, Buying
an EPA-Certified Woodstove, provides a con-
venient method for determining what size
stove is best for your heating needs. It's
available either from your woodstove dealer
or by writing or calling EPA at one of the ad-
dresses listed on the back of this brochure.
The advice in this brochure applies only
to noncatalytic woodstoves. If you aren't sure
if your woodstove is noncatalytic, contact the
manufacturer or a local woodstove retailer.
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Installing Your
Noncatalytic Woodstove
Improper installation of your
woodstove can result in a house
fire and cause greater pollution. If a stove
isn't installed properly, it can also affect the
draft of the stove (i.e., ability to draw combus-
tion air and expel exhaust). Proper draft is
critical to reducing pollution and maintaining
high efficiency. Before having your stove in-
stalled, be sure to check with local authorities
regarding building codes and permits, and
notify your fire insurance company. The
following tips discuss the importance of
proper installation.
What You Should DO
DO have your woodstove professionally
installed by a certified installer.
BECAUSE: A certified installer can determine the
proper draft for your stove, make sure all the
seals are tight, and ensure that your stove is
installed with all safety measures in mind.
Q DO consult a certified installer about the need
for a flue liner in your masonry chimney.
BECAUSE: Lining the chimney can help main-
tain proper draft and prevent icing, which can
block your chimney.
DO use the manufacturer's recommended flue
diameter.
BECAUSE: An improperly sized flue will not pro-
vide the draft needed to operate the stove. Also,
smoke may leak into your house through the air
inlets without proper draft.
Q DO make certain that all seals connecting the
stove to the flue, and within the flue, are as
tight as possible.
BECAUSE: Tight seals will prevent smoke from
leaking into your house and contribute to good
draft.
Operating Your Noncatalytic Woodstove
Follow the procedures below to operate your
stove for maximum efficiency and minimum
pollution. What makes a new noncatalytic
woodstove burn efficiently and cleanly is
"secondary combustion'—a feature that dif-
ferentiates the new stoves from the older
models. In new noncatalytic woodstoves, the
usual combustion process is augmented by a
second area of combustion that burns off the
smoke before it exits through the flue. In
some stoves, the fire of secondary combus-
tion is visible near the air inlets in the secon-
dary combustion zone (it looks like a little jet
of flame coming out of the inlets), and is
called "light-off."
What You Should DO
DO burn only dry, well-seasoned wood, not
wet or freshly cut wood. Season wood at
least six months; store outdoors, loosely
covered, to allow air to circulate freely
through the pile.
BECAUSE: "Green" or wet wood releases less heat
because energy from the fire must first evapo-
rate the moisture before producing useful heat.
DO build and maintain moderately hot fires
quickly after loading the wood. Burn a new
load at a higher air setting for about 5 to 15
minutes and then turn down the air supply
to the desired setting. When adding new
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wood, the dampers should be opened to
supply air directly to the wood and to the
flames leaving the wood.
BECAUSE: Enough air must be supplied to com-
pletely burn the gases and resins from the
wood. The rate at which the wood burns is
related to the amount of air supplied to the
wood. If there's not enough air, the wood will
not burn completely. High temperatures are
necessary to achieve the secondary combustion
that noncatalytic stoves rely on to reduce pollu-
tion and improve efficiency.
Q DO use many small or split
pieces of wood
rather than a
few large pieces.
BECAUSE: Small or split pieces (e.g., 2- to
5-inch diameter) ignite more quickly and
create the hot fires that noncatalytic stoves
require.
Q DO pay special attention to the instructions
for using the secondary air controls. In some
models, you can observe the secondary air
inlets through the glass door to confirm that
the inlets light-off.
BECAUSE: Noncatalytic stoves require secondary
combustion to burn cleanly and efficiently.
Q DO burn moderate to full loads of wood that
will provide several hours of uninterrupted
burning and minimize door openings.
BECAUSE: Minimizing door openings keeps the
burn temperature high and sustains secondary
combustion. Frequent door openings increase
pollution both inside and outside your home.
Q DO operate the stove's internal fans (if your
stove has them) in strict accordance with the
operating instructions. Some manufacturers
recommend leaving the fans turned off for
30 minutes after start-up and refueling, and
setting them on low for small fires.
BECAUSE: Fans remove heat from the fire;
cooler fires result in more pollution.
Q DO reload the stove when the charcoal bed
burns down to a 3- to 4-inch depth. De-ash
the bed by stirring but don't break up the
charcoal or compress the bed.
BECAUSE: Heat from the charcoal will ignite
the new fuel and help keep the temperatures
high. Larger pieces of charcoal let air circulate
and help the fire revive quickly.
What You Should NOT DO
Q DO NOT burn freshly
cut green wood, or
kiln- or oven-dried
lumber.
BECAUSE: The high moisture content of fresh
wood hinders hot, clean burning. Kiln- or
oven-dried lumber vaporizes too fast, leading to
excessive pollution and creosote buildup, with
its associated fire hazard.
Q DO NOT let the fire smolder at low heat.
BECAUSE: Hot fires (i.e., temperatures of 1000°
to 1200 °F) are required to maintain secondary
combustion and burn the pollutants in the
smoke. Cool fires lead to more creosote buildup
in your flue, requiring more frequent clean-
ings and creating a fire hazard.
DO NOT burn trash, treated wood, particle
board, plywood, or other fuels (such as coal,
kerosene, or lighter fluid) unless they are
listed on your stove's permanent label.
BECAUSE: Trash produces fly ash. Treated
woods, particle board, and plywood contain
chemicals that, when burned and inhaled, are
hazardous. Burning other fuels may overheat
and damage your stove.
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Maintaining Your
Noncatalytic Woodstove
Follow the procedures below to maintain
your stove.
What You Should DO
DO check all gaskets annually. Repair or
replace frayed, warped, or worn material.
Broken glass (if your stove has glass win-
dows) should be replaced immediately.
Hint: One way to test the
tightness of a gasket seal
is to close the door on a
dollar bill. Pull gently on
the dollar bill. If it pulls
easily out of place, the seal isn't tight and
the gasket should be replaced. Repeat this
test in several locations to check the seal all
around the door.
BECAUSE: Gaskets and glass windows in good
condition will provide an airtight seal and
prevent leaks. Leaks will reduce your stove's
efficiency and may create indoor air pollution
problems.
DO check seams on cast iron stoves annually.
Re-cement as necessary.
BECAUSE: As with gaskets, seams are areas
where leaks can develop.
DO check the wood-loading door and the ash
drawer for tightness; adjust as necessary.
BECAUSE: These two areas are subject to warp
or worn gaskets. Poor fit may result in over-
heating or may allow smoke to escape into the
room.
DO check air controls to make sure that
parts move freely.
BECAUSE: Pieces of bark, ash, or charred wood
may become lodged in the sliding mechanisms.
Exact amounts of combustion air are essential
for your noncatalytic stove to achieve high effi-
ciency and reduce pollution.
DO check the secondary air holes for plug-
ging; clean with a wire brush as necessary.
Each week operate the stove in a "hot"
mode for 30 to 45 minutes.
BECAUSE: Nozzles and secondary air holes must
remain unclogged to maintain combustion
airflow. When these become clogged, secondary
combustion won't occur. Hot fires will burn off
the accumulated creosote that brushing can't
remove.
DO consult your owner's manual for other
periodic inspection tips on how to replace
worn and broken parts. Replace firebrick
and other insulating materials when you see
crumbling or other signs of deterioration.
BECAUSE: Failing to replace a part will cost you
more in the long run. For all models, parts
should be available from the dealer.
DO check the baffle of your stove for
warpage. Contact the manufacturer if this
occurs.
BECAUSE: The airflow within your stove will be
distorted if the baffle is warped. This condi-
tion can be corrected by replacing the baffle.
DO check the flue twice a month and have it
cleaned at least once a year. After cleaning,
check the seals and retighten joints in the
flue and to the stove.
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BECAUSE: Buildup of creosote on the flue walls
can re-ignite and cause fires. Tight seals and
joints prevent leaks.
Qj DO make sure the thermostat (if your stove
is equipped with one) is working properly;
replace as necessary. Refer to parts list in
your owner's manual.
BECAUSE: A broken thermostat can prevent air
inlets and dampers from opening or closing
automatically.
What You Should NOT DO
DO NOT remove or tamper with the preset
operating or temperature controls.
BECAUSE: It's against the law, it will void your
stove's warranty, and it will create a safety
hazard. The stove will be less efficient and
more expensive to operate. Thermostats control
either primary or secondary air, or both.
Tampering may ruin the precisely designed
secondary combustion capabilities, resulting in
lower efficiencies, higher operating costs, and
greater pollution.
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