oEPA
United States
Environmental Protection
Agency
Region 4
EPA 904-B-92-002
September 1992
A Common Sense Guide
To Rural Environmental
Protection
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United States Environmental Protection Agency
Region 4
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
(404) 347-3004
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A COMMON SENSE GUIDE TO RURAL
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
INTRODUCTION
In the past, most attention has focused on solving urban environmental problems.
However, rural environments, despite their open spaces and peaceful lifestyle, have their own
unique problems. Some of these problems concern homeowners who rely upon wells for
drinking water and septic tanks for disposal of wastes. They must take extra care to protect
underground water sources that supply their wells, especially in areas where rapid growth can
compound existing problems if not managed properly. Other problems concern farming
operations. Runoff carrying fertilizer and pesticides from agricultural crops, gardens, and lawns
can deliver excessive nutrients and toxins into lakes, rivers, and groundwater. Wastes from
concentrated animal operations also require special management.
This guide has been developed to provide farmers and the rural homeowner with some
practical help in addressing their common environmental problems. It does not provide all the
answers, but will guide the user toward a solution. Many references are given throughout the
guide to other agencies and organizations that may have information or program responsibilities
in a particular area. You are encouraged to take the initiative and seek out information from
these sources.
We hope that you will find the guide useful. Remember that it is the collective impact of
all of our actions that causes major environmental problems. We must, therefore, work together
to correct the problems that already exist and protect our environment for the future.
September 1992
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A COMMON SENSE GUIDE
TO RURAL ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
Contents
Part I Around the House
Chapter 1 Protecting Your Drinking Water Supply Page 1
2 On-Site Sewage Disposal 7
3 Reduce Waste by Buying Smart 11
4 Recycle It! 13
5 Household Hazardous Waste 17
6 Lawn Care That Protects Water Quality 22
7 Protect Your Indoor Air from Radon and Asbestos 25
Part II Around the Farm
Chapter 8 The Importance of Smart Nutrient Management 31
9 Managing Animal Waste 35
10 Pesticide Use on the Farm 41
11 Farm Machinery Maintenance 45
12 Underground Storage Tanks 49
13 Farm Ponds An Important Water Resource 53
14 Wetlands Protection and the Farmer 57
15 Managing Forestlands for Environmental Protection 63
16 Sinkholes and Abandoned Wells 68
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Part I Around the House
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Protecting Your Drinking Water Supply
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Twenty million people, in 45 major agricultural areas, get their
drinking water from private wells. You may be one of them, and if
you are, you should be asking yourself if your water is safe to drink.
It's a good question. Wells, cisterns, and springs rely upon under-
ground sources of water. Although we tend to think of them as pro-
tected, they can easily be contaminated from activities on the sur-
face. In fact, ground-water contamination has been documented in
every single state in our nation.
A recent five year EPA survey found that nitrates (from failing septic
systems or manure applications) are one of the most common con-
taminants in private wells. Pesticides including corn herbicide
and other agricultural or weed-control chemicals were also found
in some wells.
Public water suppliers are regulated by state and federal agencies to
ensure that the water they supply is safe to drink. Public water sup-
plies must meet federal standards established by the U.S. EPA under
authority of the federal Safe Drinking Water Act passed by Congress
in 1974.
In 1986, in response to citizen concerns about the quality of drink-
ing water, Congress passed major new amendments to the Safe
Drinking Water Act. Under these new amendments, the number of
contaminants to be regulated increases dramatically to more than
200 by the year 2,000. The amendments also require states to adopt
Sources of Ground Water Contamination
\
(1 FACTORIES
lifl
LEAKS
INTENTIONAL
DISCHARGE
AND ILLEGAL
DUMPING
GROUNDWATER PATH
CONTA MIMANTR
?' "X
HERBICIDE, r?; \\
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AND FERTILIZER pWj
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Is Your Ground Water Vulnerable?
Chemicals on Hand:
Soil Properties:
Q If spilled on the soil,
would your products leach?
Q If spilled, would your products break down
slowly in the soil?
Site Characteristics:
Q Is the water table (ground water) near
the surface?
Q Are there abandoned or unsafe wells on your
property?
Q If spilled, would your products run off toward
wells and other water supplies?
Q Is your soil texture porous so large quantities of
water move through it rapidly?
Q Is soil organic matter and clay content insufficient to
bind spilled chemicals and slow movement in the soil?
Management Factors:
Q Are your agricultural chemical storage, mixing, and
loading areas properly located away from wells and
other water sources?
Q Are you properly rinsing and disposing of
containers and rinse water?
Q Have you planned for emergencies and rehearsed
your response?
Q Do you inspect your well and test your well water
periodically?
Source: Alliance for a Clean Rural Environment
ground-water protection programs and ban the use of lead materials
in water systems. The law also requires many small water systems to
comply for the first time with the new regulations. This may be diffi-
cult for many small systems that lack the money and/or technical
expertise needed for compliance. They will need significant help
from state water protection agencies.
Most rural homeowners are not protected by the new provisions of
the Safe Drinking Water Act because the federal regulations apply
only to public water suppliers. The regulations do not apply to own-
ers of private wells.
If your drinking water comes from your own well, making sure that it
remains safe to drink is your responsibility. This guide will provide
you with information you need to actively protect your ground-water
supplies.
Wells. There are several types of wells. Many older wells were dug
by hand. These dug wells draw water from just below the water
table, and frequently go dry during periods of drought. Because they
are shallow and lack a continuous casing, they are the most easily
contaminated.
page 2
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Driven wells are also shallow wells, and are usually found in shal-
low sand or gravel. Like dug wells, they can be easily contaminated
from surface sources.
Drilled wells use modern equipment to tap water sources deep
below the surface. These wells have a continuous casing that
extends above the soil surface and is sealed to prevent surface con-
tamination from seeping into the wells. For this reason, drilled wells
are less susceptible to contamination.
Sources of contamination.
Bacteria. Fecal coliform and other bacteria associated with human
or animal wastes are the most common problem for people with
rural wells. High bacteria counts may be caused by runoff from a
feed lot, a failing septic system located too near the drinking water
well, or an animal that has fallen into a well and contaminated the
water supply. High coliform counts indicate the presence of harmful
bacteria that can cause serious health problems.
Agricultural or barnyard runoff. Excess manure applications, or
barnyard wastes, can raise both bacteria and nitrate levels in your
wells, making the water unfit to drink.
Pesticides. While pesticides increase crop yield, they can also
seriously contaminate a drinking water supply, even years or
decades later. This is sometimes the case for homes that are built
on former cropland. Farmers must take care that pesticides and
other potentially hazardous substances are applied and disposed of
properly.
Underground or Above Ground Oil Tanks. Spills or leakage from an
oil tank located near your well can eventually contaminate your
water. Usually, the only remedy is to drill a new well.
What You Can Do Action steps for private well owners:
1. Test your water. Bacteria levels should be checked at least once
a year, or after periods of intense rain or flooding. Nitrate levels
should also be checked once a year to prevent problems for small
children or young farm animals. If tests show high levels of nitrates,
you may want to test for pesticides as well. Contact your county
pages
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health department for help with testing. If they can't help, contact
your state Department of Health or the regional EPA office in
Atlanta. (See references at the end of this chapter.)
2. Locate your well properly. Location can mean the difference
between a contaminated water supply and a quality one. Be sure to
install your well upslope of all potential sources of contamination
the barnyard, feed lot, fuel tank, chemical storage area, and septic
system. Also, if you have your own garbage area, be especially
careful to dispose of household or farm chemical containers and
waste properly.
3. Inspect your well carefully. Inspect the casing surrounding your
well to make sure that no surface water can enter the system and
contaminate your water. The casing and locking cap on your well
should extend at least a foot above the soil surface, and the seal
should be tight. Cracks in the seal or grout must be repaired to pre-
vent surface water (and potential contaminants) from running down
the side of the casing and entering the well below the casing. To
find out how deep your casing extends, contact the driller to see if
the original records are available.
4. Store/Dispose of chemicals properly. Store and mix your agri-
cultural chemicals as far away from your well as possible. Rinse
containers and equipment and dispose of empty containers away
from your wells. Rinse water can be saved and re-applied to crops,
or used to dilute additional applications. Never use an abandoned
well or a sinkhole to dump wastes or empty containers.
Where to Get _, , ,, . . ., , ,
I* _ i The following agencies can provide help with a specific question or
More Help ,, . . . M r ^
r problem involving your well, cistern, or spring:
county or state health depts. state water resources depts.
state natural resources agencies state land-grant colleges
state conservation departments Cooperative Extension Service.
For general information on drinking water standards or other drink-
ing water topics and issues, contact:
The EPA Safe Drinking Water Hotline
Toil-Free: 1-800-426-4791
The hotline operates Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. EST
page 4
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U.S. EPA Region 4
Drinking Water Branch
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-2913
For information on well construction or general information on pro-
tecting agricultural water supplies, contact:
The American Ground Water Trust
6375 Riverside Drive
Dublin, OH 43017
614-761-2215
Alliance for a Clean Rural Environment (ACRE)
P.O. Box 413 708
Kansas City, MO 64179-0386
800-545-5410
For a list of certified well drillers in your area, contact:
The National Water Well Association
614-761-1711
For information on home water treatment units, contact:
The Water Quality Association
Consumer Affairs Department
P.O. Box 606
Lisle, IL 60532
312-369-1600
The National Sanitation Foundation
3475 Plymouth Road
P.O. Box 1468
Ann Arbor, Mi 48106
313-769-8010
Publications:
Two fact sheets published by the Alliance for a Clean Rural Environ-
ment (ACRE) provided valuable information for this section. They
are:
Q Protecting Rural Wells from Contamination (ACRE fact sheet
number twenty)
pages
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Q Testing Well Water for Contamination (ACRE fact sheet number
nineteen)
The following publications also provided valuable information for
this report and are recommended to the reader. They are:
Q Ground Water and the Rural Homeowner (U.S. Dept. of the
Interior/Geological Survey; Federal Center, Box 25425; Denver,
CO 80225)
Q What You Need to Know About Water Wells in Georgia
(Georgia Department of National Resources, Environmental
Protection Division; Room 400; 19 Martin Luther King Jr. Dr.,
SW; Atlanta, GA 30334; 404-656-3214)
Q Citizen's Guide to Ground-Water Protection (EPA brochure)
Q Citizen Monitoring: Recommendations to Household Well
Users (EPA brochure)
G Drinking Water from Household Wells (EPA brochure)
Q Your Drinking Water: From Source to Tap (EPA brochure)
page 6
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On-Site Sewage Disposal
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Nearly one-third of all American citizens and most rural residents
dispose of human and household wastes on their own property,
usually with a septic tank/soil absorption system. Septic systems
generally do a good job of protecting people and the environment
from contamination. However, a system that is poorly located, poor-
ly constructed, or poorly maintained can seriously contaminate the
ground water that supplies the family's drinking water wells. In fact,
wells contaminated with bacteria or viruses are considered a leading
cause of water-borne diseases, including gastrointestinal illnesses
that are sometimes misdiagnosed as an upset stomach or the flu.
Bacterial contamination is most likely where shallow wells are locat-
ed too close to a septic system. In addition to contaminating nearby
drinking water wells, the same poorly functioning septic system also
can pollute nearby lakes, rivers, streams, and ponds.
How the Septic Tank System Works. The most common system has
two parts. All the waste water from sinks, dishwashers, showers, toi-
lets, washing machines, etc., is piped into the septic tank, a large
underground tank usually located close to the house. Heavy solids
settle to the bottom as sludge. Lighter solids, such as grease, form
scum that floats on the liquid. The liquid located between the
sludge and scum flows out to an absorption field (also called a
drainfield) where much of it is absorbed by the soil.
In the Septic Tank. Tiny bacteria in the tank eat the digestible part
of the sludge. These organisms play an important role, and you
should limit the amount of bacteria-killing bleach or pesticides that
you put in your drains. Undigestible solids remain in the tank and
must be pumped out periodically. If the septic tank is not pumped
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out, solids will continue to collect and will eventually clog the
drainfield. The system will then fail; When that happens, the
drainfield must be replaced at substantial cost to the owner.
The Soil Absorption Field. The drainfield is most often a network of
perforated pipes set in trenches with gravel above and below.
Every time wastewater enters the septic tank, some liquid is forced
out into the field. The liquid is filtered by the gravel before entering
the surrounding soil, which acts as the final barrier against pollu-
tion. Some of the liquid is taken up by plants and grasses. The
majority is filtered slowly through the soil to the underlying ground
water.
The size of the drainfield depends on the amount of water used in
the home or facility. The more water used, the greater the area
required. Other factors, such as soil permeability and land features
(trees, property lines), must also be considered because some soils
are simply not suitable for septic tank systems. High ground water,
impervious soils (clay), or a very thin layer of soil over bedrock
indicate poor conditions for septic systems. In these areas, foul
odors from septic tank backup or ponding in yards is common.
Where to locate your septic system. Assuming that the soil charac-
teristics are favorable for a septic system, other considerations must
be taken into account when selecting a location. Generally, the
system should be located downhill from wells and springs, and at
least 50 feet from any water supply, stream, or lake. Care should
also be taken to prevent the roots of nearby trees or bushes from
clogging the drainfield.
What You Can Do Do's and Don'ts for a healthy septic system. If properly installed
and maintained, a septic system can serve you well for many years.
Here are some suggestions to make sure that yours remains a
trouble-free wastewater disposal system.
page 8
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Do's:
1. Do check with your county health department before building in
an area that does not have sewers. Most counties require a per-
mit to build a septic system.
2. If you are buying a home in a subdivision, do check to be sure
that the developer obtained all the necessary permits.
3. Do pump your septic tank every 2 or 3 years.
4. Do conserve water. Repair all leaky fixtures and install low flow
toilets, showerheads, and faucet aerators. Studies show that the
use of low-flow fixtures can increase the life of your system. You
will also save on your total energy costs, especially if you pump
water from a private well.
Don'ts
1. Don't use a garbage disposal. This only adds to the solids the
septic tank must handle. If you do use a disposal, have your
tank pumped at least once a year.
2. Don't throw kitchen grease, chemicals, acids, or large items
down your drains or toilets. Make sure that any drain cleaners
you use are labeled "safe for use in septic tanks."
3. Don't plant trees or bushes near the drainfield where roots can
clog your system.
4. Don't cover the drainfield with asphalt or other hard surface.
5. Don't drive a car or other heavy machinery over the drainfield.
Where to Get Homeowners who have questions or a problem with their septic sys-
More Help tern should call their local public health office first. If they are
unable to solve the problem, contact the county or state health
department, or the EPA Region 4 office.
For more information, contact:
U.S. EPA National Small Flows Clearinghouse
West Virginia University^ P.O. Box 6064
Morgantown, WV 26506-6064
Toll-Free: 1-800-624-8301
page 9
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U.S. EPA Region 4
Small Community Outreach and Education Coordinator (SCORE)
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-3633
Publications:
The following publications provided valuable information for this
report and are recommended to the reader. They are:
Q Small Wastewater Systems: Alternative Systems for Small
Communities and Rural Areas (EPA Brochure)
Q Septic Tanks and Soil Absorption Systems: An Owners Guide
to Care and Maintenance (Tennessee Valley Authority. Dis-
tributed by the Division of Environmental Sanitation; Tennessee
Department of Public Health; Ben Allen Road; Nashville, Ten-
nessee 37216)
Q Understanding Your Septic System (The Freshwater Founda-
tion. 2500 Shadywood Road; Box 90; Navarre, Minnesota
55392; 612-471-8407)
Q Septic Tank Systems: Function and Maintenance (Rural Com-
munity Assistance Corporation, Environmental Services Divi-
sion. 2125 19th St., Suite 203; Sacramento, CA 95818; 916-
447-2854) .
Q Manual of Instruction for Sewage Treatment Plant Operators
(New York State Department of Public Health. Health Educa-
tion Service; P.O. Box 7238; Albany, NY 12224)
page 10
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Reduce Waste By Buying Smart
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
What You
Can Do
Over the last four decades, "throw-away" behavior has become
increasingly common. At the same time, many areas of our country
are facing a solid waste crisis. The amount of trash is growing, but
there are fewer places to put it.
Common sense tells us that the first step in solving the problem is to
produce less waste to begin with. Any activity that does this is
called source reduction. Reducing, reusing and re-manufacturing
are all forms of source reduction,. For example, the container that
began its life as a peanut butter jar can be washed and reused to
store something else. Relying on a durable coffee mug that is
cleaned and reused hundreds of times will cut down on the need for
disposable cups. Not only can activities such as these save landfill
space, but they help conserve natural resources and prevent some of
the pollution that may accompany manufacturing.
Source reduction also includes reducing the toxicity of products.
Look for ways to reduce their use.
What's in our trash. Containers and packaging make up about 30
percent of the waste we generate. Non-durable goods paper and
plastic food service products, disposable products, newspapers, and
magazines make up another 30 percent. The remainder of our
trash includes glass, metals, yard and food wastes, plastics, wood
and other substances.
We can all help by evaluating our daily waste-producing and
shopping habits to determine which ones are really necessary and
which are not. Source reduction can be as simple as reaching for a
sponge instead of a paper towel, sharing a magazine with a friend,
or donating old clothes and appliances to charity. The charts on
the next page give some suggestions for practi-
cal steps you can take to reduce waste and at
the same time save money, resources, and the
environment.
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Where to Get Most state environmental departments have a recycling or solid
More Help waste division. The phone numbers of state recycling offices are
listed at the end of chapter 4.
For more information about source reduction, contact:
The EPA RCRA/Superfund Hotline
toll free: 800-424-9346
U.S. EPA Region 4
Office of Solid Waste
345 Courtland St
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-2091
SMART SHOPPERS WILL
WATCH WHAT THEY BUY
AND THROW AWAY
1. Look for ways to reuse products.
2. Choose, maintain, and repair
durable and fixable products.
3. Reuse bags, containers, paper,
boxes, and other items.
4. Look for products that are not
over-packaged.
5. Buy concentrates, larger-sized
containers, or products in bulk.
6. Choose products that can be recycled
and make sure to recycle them.
7. Select products made of recycled
materials.
8. Compost food and yard waste.
9. Borrow or rent things you use
infrequently.
10. Buy, sell, or donate used goods such
as clothes, furniture, and appliances.
11. Educate others on source reduction
and recycling practices.
12. Be creative look for opportunities
to practice source reduction!
CONSIDER MAKING
THEIR OWN CLEANERS
All purpose
cleaner
Glass cleaner
Drain cleaner
Oven cleaner
Toilet bowl
cleaner
Furniture polish
Rug shampoo
1 tsp. liquid soap, boric
acid (use with caution),
lemon juice,and/or
vinegar mixed with 1 qt.
warm water
1 Tb. vinegar or lemon
juice in 1 qt. water
Pour boiling water down
drain once a week, and
use a plunger or snake.
Clean spills with steel
wool and baking soda
Brush with baking soda
or vinegar
Wipe with a mixture of 1
tsp. lemon oil in 1 pint
mineral or vegetable oil
1 qt. white vinegar in 3
qts. boiling water. Dry
thoroughly and vacuum
page 12
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Recycle It!
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Each year Americans throw away about 2.9 million tons of cans, 9.9
million tons of glass bottles, 14.2 million tons of plastics, 53.4 mil-
lion tons of paper and paperboard, and 1.8 million tons of tires. In
fact, we make enough garbage every year to fill a convoy of trash
trucks reaching halfway to the moon.
Recycling this trash makes sense. It saves energy. It saves our natu-
ral resources. And it protects the quality of our air and water.
What is recycling? Recycling is a three-step process that involves:
collecting and separating materials that can be recycled
using the materials to make new products
reusing the new product
The first step sorting and collecting recyclable glass, cans, and
other products is too often the last step for many people. The
individual consumer, as well as businesses, must buy products made
from recycled goods. This will guarantee a steady market for the
materials you collect and will make it profitable for businesses to use
recycled materials for their packaging.
What can be recycled? When people think of recycling, they usual-
ly think first of paper or aluminum cans. But many other things can
be recycled as well, including yard and kitchen wastes and used oil.
The chart on the next page lists some of the items readily recycled.
Composting. Composting is nature's original recycling pro-
ject. Composting is cheap, easy, doesn't require a lot of
space, and can provide nutrient-rich soil for your gardening
projects. And it can cut down significantly the amount of
trash you must dispose of, because household organic
wastes and yard wastes leaves, grass clippings, food
scraps can be as much as 25-50 percent of your total
garbage.
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Waste & Tires
Reprocessed for Pressed
Board, Roads, and Other
Construction Projects
Plastics, Drink Bottles
Reprocessed for Auto
Parts, Fiberfill, Strapping
Aiuminum Cans
Reprocessed for Can
Sheet and Casings
Yard Waste
Composted for Garden-
ing, Landscaping
Other Metais
Cleaned & Reprocessed
as Scrap & Structural
Products
Glass
Refilled or Gullet for Jars,
Bottles, Construction
Material
Furnishings & Clothing
Reused by Another
Person
Animal Waste
Used as Fertilizer
Paper
Reprocessed as
Newsprint, Paperboard,
Insulation
Homeowners can compost in their backyard. Farmers can compost
on a much larger scale to produce a commercial product for use on
croplands or by landscapers and nurseries.
How to set up a compost pile. Setting up a compost pile in your
yard is neither difficult nor time consuming. The compost bin can
be made from lumber, plywood, chicken wire, etc.
1) At the bottom of the pile, put a 6-10 inch layer of bulky materi-
als (straw, corn stalks, leaves, or wood chips).
2) Next, add a 2-3 inch layer of grass clippings, garden scraps,
manures, and kitchen wastes (egg shells, fruit and vegetable
scraps and coffee grounds). Do not add meat, bones, or fatty
foods such as cheese, oils or grease.
3) Make sure that all materials stay moist, but not wet.
4) Turn the pile once a week to provide the oxygen the bacteria
need to break down the wastes.
5) The compost should be ready for use within 2-6 months. The
composting process is quicker during the warmer months of
the year.
If you don't have the space for a compost pile, see if a neighbor can
use your yard waste, or talk with community officials about setting
up a town-wide project. The listings at the end of this chapter
include publications that provide detailed information on what and
how to compost as well as case studies of cities and towns that suc-
cessfully operate composting programs.
Used oil. While most oil used in industrial processes is routinely
recovered, the used automotive oil of do-it-yourselfers poses a real
threat to the environment. But used oil can be successfully recycled.
General collection programs. Many communities have established
general curbside collection programs or drop off centers to encour-
age recycling. These typically take separated glass, paper, plastics,
metals, and other recyclable materials to a central facility where
they are processed for transport to processors and manufacturers.
page 14
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What You Can Do
Where to Get
More Help
Everyone can participate in recycling.
Contact your local solid waste management authority to find
out what kind of recycling opportunities exist in your com-
munity.
Take your old car battery and used motor oil to an automo-
tive service center that collects them for recycling.
Encourage local businesses and merchants to recycle office
paper, corrugated cardboard, aluminum cans, bottles, and
other materials.
Buy products made from recovered materials or packaged in
recycled materials.
Set up your own food and yard waste compost pile in your
backyard.
There is a great deal of information and assistance available to local
communities and individuals interested in recycling.
STATE RECYCLING OFFICES:
Alabama
Solid Waste Section
Land Division
Dept. of Environmental Management
1751 Congressman W.L. Dickinson Dr.
Montgomery, AL 36130
205-271-7726
Georgia
Dept. of Community Affairs
1300 Equitable Building
100 Peachtree St.
Atlanta, GA 30303
404-656-3836
Mississippi
Waste Reduction/Waste Minimization
Dept. of Environmental Quality
Bureau of Pollution Control
P.O. Box 10385
Jackson, MS 39289-0385
601-961-5171
South Carolina
Facility Engineering
Bureau of Solid and Hazardous
Waste Management
Dept. of Health and Environmental
Control
2600 Bull St.
Columbia, SC 29201
803-734-5200
page 15
Florida
Solid Waste
Dept. of Environmental Regulation
Twin Towers Office Building
2600 Blair Stone Rd.
Tallahassee, FL 32399-2700
904-922-6104
Kentucky
Resource Conservation Branch
Division of Waste Management
Dept. for Environmental Protection
Fort Boone Plaza, 18 Reilly Rd.
Frankfort, KY 40601
502-564-6716
North Carolina
Office of Waste Reduction
Dept. of Environment, Health, and
Natural Resources
P.O. Box 27687
Raleigh, NC 27611-7687
919-571-4100
Tennessee
Dept. of Environment and Conservation
701 Broadway
Customs House, 4th Floor
Nashville, TN 37243-1535
615-741-3424
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STATE RECYCLING ASSOCIATIONS:
Kentucky
Kentucky Recycling Association
P.O. Box 90005
Bowling Green, KY 42101 -9005
502-781-2381
South Carolina
South Carolina Recycling Association
c/o South Carolina Clean and Beautiful
Dept. of Parks, Recreation, and Tourism
1205 Pendleton Street, Suite 517
Columbia, SC 29201
803-734-0143
NATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS:
National Recycling Coalition
1101 30th Street, NW
Washington, DC 20007
202-625-6410
Environmental Defense Fund
128 East Hargett St.
Raleigh, NC 27601
North Carolina
North Carolina Recycling Association
P.O. Box 25368
Raleigh, NC 27611-5368
Tennessee
Tennessee Recycling Coalition
615-255-0123
FEDERAL GOVERNMENT:
EPA RCRA/Superfund Toll-free Hotline: 800-424-9346
U.S. EPA Region 4
Office of Solid Waste
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-2091
PUBLICATIONS:
Q If You're Not Recycling You're Throwing It All Away
(Environmental Defense Fund flyer)
Q Waste Reducer's Checklist (King County Solid Waste
Division, Seattle, Washington flyer)
Q Recycling Works! (Case studies, EPA brochure)
Q Recycle (EPA flyer)
a Environmental Fact Sheet: Yard Waste Composting (EPA
brochure)
Q Why Waste a Second Chance?: a small town guide to recy-
cling (National Association of Towns and Townships, Wash-
ington, D.C. 20005, 202-737-5200)
Q Composting in Your Own Back Yard (GA Dept of Natural
Resources fact sheet, 1-800-33-GA-EPD)
page 16
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Household Hazardous Waste
Why You Should Care
What You
i Should Know
Some of the things you buy in a supermarket and use around your
home may contain hazardous substances that are known to cause
health problems in humans. They can also be harmful to ground
water and the environment in general, even in very small amounts.
These everyday products include such things as motor oil, some
pesticides, paint, mothballs, flea collars, weed killers, some house-
hold cleaners, and even some medications. Some of these products,
such as used motor oil, can be successfully recycled.
Disposing of household hazardous wastes requires special care.
Before you throw that can of used oil in the trash, before you
pour that left-over nail polish remover down the drain, consider
the following:
Read the product label carefully. The label should tell you whether
the product is poisonous, corrosive, or flammable, and often will
give instructions for disposing of any leftover product or the empty
container. Of course, the best disposal method is to use up the prod-
uct or give it to someone who can.
Don't put it in the trash. Household hazardous wastes should only
be thrown out with the rest of the household trash as a last resort.
Household hazardous wastes can injure garbage collectors, catch
fire, work their way into ground or surface water, or create danger-
ous gases. If you must dispose of empty containers (or of small
amounts of leftover product) with your regular trash, first check the
label for disposal instructions. If none are given, wrap the closed
container tightly before putting it in the trash.
-------
Landfills just can't take it. Many municipal landfills are not
designed to handle hazardous materials. As rain and snow-melt
filters through the trash in a landfill, a liquid called leachate is
formed. If the landfill is unlined, this leachate may eventually carry
the hazardous substances from your trash to both ground and sur-
face waters.
Don't pour it down the drain. Small amounts of some wastes, such
as toilet bowl or bathroom cleaners, may be poured down the drain
with plenty of water. However, most other products should not be
disposed of this way because anything you pour down your drain or
flush down your toilet will enter your septic system or your commu-
nity's sewer system. You risk damaging your septic system and con-
taminating the ground water. Substances entering a sewer system
may eventually contaminate rivers, lakes, or streams.
Don't dump it on the ground. Substances you dump or bury in the
ground can contaminate the soil, the ground water, or be carried
into a nearby lake or stream by runoff during rainstorms. They can
also harm birds and small animals who come into contact with
them.
Don't throw out your used oil. While most oil used in industrial
processes is routinely recovered, the used automotive oil of do-it-
yourselfers can be a real threat to the environment. One gallon of
used oil from a single oil change can contaminate a million gallons
of water.
What You Can Do There are very few options for disposing of hazardous products used
in your home, so the first step may be to avoid buying such products
or limit your use of them. You can:
Ask your merchants what non-toxic alternatives are available
and then use them (see page 12 for a list of safer substitutes
for many household products). " :
Check your local library or bookstore for guidebooks con-
taining non-toxic household tips.
If you must buy a product containing toxic substances, you can:
Purchase only the amount you can use at one time.
Dispose of product containers properly.
page 18
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Where to Get
More Help
Check to see if your town sponsors Hazardous Household
Waste Collection days. If they don't, ask them to sponsor
one.
How it can work a success story. In 1977, the state of Alabama
decided to do something about the problem of used oil. First, the
state set up a non-profit program known as Project Rose. It conduct-
ed surveys to find out where the used oil would come from and how
it could be collected. Then it identified sponsors for pilot collection
projects. Finally it educated the public about the goals of the pro-
gram. The result? In 1986 Alabamians recycled 8.2 million gallons
of used oil, saving money and protecting the environment.
For more information on household hazardous waste, contact the
RCRA director for your state:
STATE RECYCLING OFFICES:
Alabama
Land Division
Dept. of Environmental Management
1751 Congressman W.L. Dickinson Dr.
Montgomery, AL 36130
205-271-7730
Georgia
Land Protection Branch
Department of Natural Resources
Floyd Towers East, Room 1154
205 Butler St., S.E.
Atlanta, GA 30334
404-656-2833
Mississippi
Groundwater Division
Dept. of Environmental Quality
Bureau of Pollution Control
P.O. Box 10385
Jackson, MS 39289-0385
601-961-5171
South Carolina
Bureau of Solid and Hazardous
Waste Management
Dept. of Health and Environmental
Control
2600 Bull St.
Columbia, SC 29201
803-734-5200
Florida
Bureau Waste Planning & Regulation
Dept. of Environmental Regulation
2600 Blair Stone Rd.
Tallahassee, FL 32399-2700
904-488-0300
Kentucky
Division of Waste Management
Dept. for Environmental Protection
Fort Boone Plaza, Building #2
18ReillyRd.
Frankfort, KY 40601
502-564-6716
North Carolina
Div. of Solid Waste Management
Dept. of Environment, Health, and
Natural Resources
P.O. Box 27687
Raleigh, NC 27611-7687
919-733-2178
Tennessee
Div. of Solid Waste Management
Dept. of Health and Environment
701 Broadway
Customs House, 4th Floor
Nashville,TN37219-5403
615-741-3424
pag0 19
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Before disposing of any of these
common household hazardous substances,
be sure to check the label for
disposal requirements and/or instructions.
In many cases,
it may be illegal to dispose of the product
in a manner which is inconsistent with the label.
Cosmetics
nail polish & remover
Housecleaning Supplies
some cleansers, furniture & floor
polish, metal polish,some rug
cleaners, drain openers
some toilet bowl cleaners
Laundry Supplies
dry cleaning solvents
moth balls and flakes
spot removers
Other Products
aerosol cans containing any
pressure or fluids, butane lighters
lighter fluid, some flea powder
some pet shampoo
shoe dye and polish
Building Supplies
asbestos, fluorescent lamps
some glues, cements, wood
preservatives
Painting Supplies
latex-based paint, oil-based paint
model airplane paint
paint stripper, paint thinner
turpentine, mineral spirits
Medicines
chemotherapy drugs
mercury from a broken thermometer
shampoo for lice
Automotive Supplies
aluminum cleaner, auto body
filler, transmission fluid
brake fluid, carburetor cleaner
car wax, chrome polish, diesel fuel
engine degreaser, gasoline, kerosene
lubricating oil, used motor oil
Garden Supplies
some fungicides, herbicides
insecticides, rat poison
snail & slug poison
weed killer, vegetation killer
Hobby Supplies
acrylic paint, chemistry sets
oil paint, epoxy, resins
photographic chemicals/solutions
fiberglass, rubber cement thinner
page 20
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STATE PUBLICATIONS:
Florida
Amnesty Days Information Packet. Department of Environmental Regulation,
Bureau of Operations, 2600 Blair Stone Road, Tallahassee, FL 32399 (904-
488-0190). Free information on the state-sponsored collection.
North Carolina
Household Hazardous Waste: Collection and Disposal Options for North Car-
olina Communities. Outlines procedures on how to organize a collection
program. Institute for Environmental Studies, 311 Pittsboro St. 256H, Univer-
sity of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, NC 27514 (919-966-3332)
FEDERAL GOVERNMENT:
U.S. EPA Region 4
Office of Solid Waste
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-2091
FEDERAL PUBLICATIONS:
The following publications are available free by calling
EPA RCRA/Superfund Toll-free Hotline: 800-424-9346
Q How to Set up a Local Program to Recycle Used Oil
(EPA/530-SW-89-039A)
Q Recycling Used Oil: 10 Steps to Change Your Oil
(EPA/530-SW039D)
Q Recycling Used Oil: What You Can Do (EPA/530-SW039B)
The following publication is available free by calling the
EPA Safe Drinking Water Toil-free Hotline: 800-426-4791
O Citizen's Guide to Ground-Water Protection
(EPA/440/6-90-004)
Other publications of interest:
Q Household Hazardous Waste Management News
(The Waste Watch Center, 16 Haverhill St., Andover, MA
01810)
Q Disposal: Do It Right, Managing Household Wastes
(The Household Products Disposal Council, 1201 Connecticut
Ave., N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036)
Q Complete Trash: The Best Way to Get Rid of Practically Every-
thing Around the House (by Norm Crampton)
page 21
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Lawn Care That Protects Water Quality
Why You Should Care Leaves, lawn clippings and debris, and pesticides and fertilizers
help contribute to the beauty of your home and yard. Unfortunate-
ly, they can also pollute lakes, streams, and riversand the ground
water that may be your water supply.
What You
Should Know
If you maintain a healthy lawn and garden, you can protect your
water supply, prevent soil erosion, reduce pest problems, and
reduce or eliminate the use of pesticides. The basic prescription for
a healthy lawn involves:
reducing runoff, and
keeping your lawn clean.
Reducing runoff. Water is supposed to soak into the ground, not run
off the top. Runoff should be controlled, not only to conserve limit-
ed water supplies, but also to prevent the most common way pollu-
tion reaches our lakes and streams. Dense grass, ground cover,
plants, shrubs, or trees make your soil more like a sponge, encourag-
ing it to absorb water. A weak grass coverwhether on your lawn
or in grazing fieldsdoes not retain soil moisture or use nutrients
efficiently. A thick stand of grass also helps prevent soil erosion.
Keeping your lawn clean means controlling yard wastes, pesticides,
fertilizers, pet wastes, and other potential pollutants on your lawn.
Small amounts of grass clippings can be left on the lawn to
decompose and fertilize the grass.
Pests can be controlled with non-chemical controls, rather
than with pesticides that may wash off your lawn into water
supplies.
-------
Fertilizers should be used sparingly. While the nutrients they
contain (nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium) nourish plants
and encourage healthy growth, they can also encourage weed
growth and algae in lakes, rivers, and streams.
Pet wastes can be buried to prevent disease-causing bacteria
and other organisms from contaminating water.
What You Can Do Practice the basics of good lawn care.
1. When you cut the grass, remove only the top third of the leaf,
and leave the grass clipping on the lawn. Always remember
to direct your lawn mower chute away from paved areas so
that the clippings do not wash into storm sewers.
2. If you bag your grass clippings, use them as a mulch around
plants or compost them to use in gardening projects later. Do
not place fresh or green clippings around plants.
3. Water only if needed, to a soil depth of about six to eight
inches. This amounts to about one inch of water, enough for
most turf grasses. This watering pattern will encourage deep,
healthy root growth.
4. Water your lawn between sunset and sunrise to reduce the
amount of water lost through evaporation. Early morning is
the next best time to water your lawn.
5. Use insect and disease-resistant varieties of grass.
6. Decide what level of pests you can live with before you apply
pesticides to your lawn. If you need to use pesticides to con-
trol a pest problem, choose the proper pesticide for your lawn
and your pest, purchase only the amount you need, and
always follow label directions. You may also choose a pesti-
cide with a less toxic chemical.
7. Pesticides have a short shelf life and disposal of any left-over
product can be a problem. Follow directions carefully, and
don't apply when rain is forecast, as the rain may wash the
pesticide into sewers or natural drains.
page 23
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8. Have your soil tested every few years to see how much and
what kind of fertilizer you need. Then use the least amount
possible. Water your lawn lightly after applying fertilizer so
that is quickly absorbed by the lawn. As with pesticides, don't
apply if heavy rain is predicted within 24 hours.
Where to Get Contact your county extension agent for more information on lawn
More Help care. Homeowners interested in reducing their exposure from pes-
ticides should obtain a copy of
Q Citizen's Guide to Pesticides (EPA brochure, #20T-1002)
The guide is available from
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
345 Courtland St., NE
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-4216
Information is also available from:
National Pesticides Telecommunications Network Hotline
800-858-7378
page 24
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Protect Your Indoor Air from Radon and Asbestos
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Background
Air
The air you breathe may contain radon or asbestos. You cannot see
radon gas in your air. You cannot see asbestos fibers in your air. But
both are potentially deadly.
Radon is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas pro-
duced in nature through the radioactive decay of radium in soil and
rocks. It can dissolve in water and be released into the air. Out-
doors, radon is present at very low levels in air and is generally not
a problem. However, when trapped in an enclosed space such as a
home, radon can accumulate and can increase your risk of devel-
oping lung cancer.
Asbestos is a mineral composed of small thin fibers. It was common
in building materials and was used in many, many farm homes from
the early 1900's to the mid-1970's. In fact, it was once regarded as
a wonder material because it was such an effective insulator and
because it retarded fire. Later, this same material was found to
increase people's risk of developing lung cancer, asbestosis (a
serious lung disease), and mesothelioma (a cancer of the lining
of the lung or abdominal cavities).
How radon enters your home. Radon can enter your
home in one of three ways:
from the underlying soil.
in water from a private well or a water
system using underground water supplies.
from outdoor air.
-------
Usually, radon enters a home by seeping through walls and floors
from the underlying soil. Radon can seep into a home through dirt
floors, cracks in concrete floors and drains, sumps, joints, and tiny
cracks or pores in hollow-block walls.
Radon can also enter your home through your household water if
your water comes from your own well or from a public water sup-
ply system using wells. Because radon is a gas, some radon is
released to the air when water is agitated during such normal
household activities as showering, washing clothes and dishes, and
preparing food.
The amount of radon entering a home from the outdoor air (i.e., the
"background level") is usually small. Exposure to this small amount
of radon is unavoidable.
What You
Should Know Where asbestos may be found in your home. There are two types
About Asbestos of asbestos materials:
1. friable materials can be crumbled, pulverized, or reduced to
powder by hand pressure. Examples include:
sprayed-on surfacing materials that are very fibrous and
fluffy; pipe insulation; and
troweled-on surfacing materials that are granular and
cement-like;
2. nonfriable materials are hard and some are cement-like in
appearance. Examples include:
cement asbestos board siding or shingles
vinyl asbestos floor tile and sheet vinyl.
Any room in your home may contain asbestos materials.
Walls and Ceilings may have sprayed-on or troweled-on sur-
facing materials.
Furnaces, Boilers, Heaters, Pipes, and Ducts may be covered
with asbestos insulation materials.
Floor Coverings such as sheet vinyl (including the backing or
underlayment), vinyl tile, and vinyl tile adhesive may all con-
tain asbestos.
Exterior surfaces such as cement board siding or shingles may
contain asbestos.
page 26
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What You Can Do
About Radon
Test your home's air for radon. Radon levels in air can vary greatly
from house to house on the same street due to differences in
bedrock, soil, and housing construction. Your next door neighbor's
home could have very high radon levels, while your house may
have no radon problem. The only way to find out if your home has
high levels of radon is to test your home's indoor air. If indoor air
levels are high, you may want to test your water if you have your
own well or are served by a water system using wells.
The level of radon in household air is usually measured as the num-
ber of picocuries of radon in each liter of air (pCi/D.The greater the
number of pCi/L in air, the greater the risk of lung cancer. The goal
is to reduce radon in household air to as near the outside air level
as possible. EPA believes that levels in most homes can be reduced
to about 4 pCi/L.
Since you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed
to detect it. The most common radon detectors are the charcoal
canister and the alpha track detector. These are exposed to the air
in your home for a period of time and sent to a laboratory for
WHAT THE RADON TEST RESULTS MEAN
In deciding whether or how quickly to take action to reduce radon levels, you may find the following guide-
lines useful. You should try to permanently reduce your radon levels as much as possible. Based on
currently available information, EPA believes that levels in most homes can be reduced to about 4 pCi/L.
If your results are:
200 pCi/L or higher:
20 to 200 pCi/L:
4 pCi/L to 20 pCi/L:
4 pCi/L or lower:
Remember:
Exposures in this range are among the highest observed in homes. EPA
recommends that you take action within several weeks to reduce levels
as far below 200 pCi/L as possible. If this is not possible, you should
determine, in consultation with appropriate state or local health or
radiation protection officials, if temporary relocation is appropriate
until the levels can be reduced.
Exposures in this range are considered greatly above average for resi-
dences . You should take action within several months to reduce levels
as far below 20 pCi/L as possible.
Exposures in this range are considered above average for residences.
You should take action to lower levels to about 4 pCi/L or below within
a year or twoor sooner, if levels are at the upper end of this range.
Exposures in this range are considered average (1 pCi/L) or slightly above
average for residences. Although exposures in this range do present
some risk of lung cancer, reductions of levels this low in household air
may be difficult, and sometimes impossible, to achieve.
There is increasing urgency for action at higher concentrations of radon.
The higher the radon level in your home, the faster you should take
action to reduce your exposure.
page 27
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analysis. If an elevated radon level is found, a follow-up test should
be taken to confirm the result.
How to get rid of the radon. If test results indicate that you have a
problem with radon in your home, you will need to take action to
reduce the levels. Effective measures include sealing off radon entry
routes and installing one of several systems to capture the radon
before it enters the house and exhaust it to the outside. You may
want to consider hiring a professional to help design the system for
your home, or call your state radon office (listed at the end of this
chapter) for more information.
What You Can Do ,. . . , . , . , (
By takme the right actions, you can reduce your risk of exposure to
About Asbestos , , ,. , t. ,
asbestos. But by taking the wrong actions, you can seriously
increase your risk of exposure.
1. Identify materials in your home that are likely to contain
asbestos. Examine walls, tiles, ceilings, and floors to see if they are
in good condition. Do not undertake any renovations in your home
without first being sure that the materials do not contain asbestos.
2. Do not try to remove asbestos materials yourself. Asbestos
fibers can linger in the air and be breathed in by you or members of
your family. If you do decide to remove materials containing
asbestos, you should seek out a professional who has been certified
to remove asbestos.
Sometimes asbestos materials may be left safely in place. The key
here is to be sure that the asbestos-containing surfaces remain
intact. For example, the asbestos insulation around pipes may be
sealed with a safer material. As long as the covering remains undis-
turbed, there is no danger to people from the asbestos.
3. Do not touch or disturb asbestos materials on walls, ceilings,
pipes, or boilers. This includes any activity that could permit
asbestos fibers to enter the air:
drilling holes,
hanging plants from ceilings,
hanging pictures on walls,
sanding floor tiles or backing materials,
hanging curtains, drapes or dividers.
page 28
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Where to Get
More Help
RADON:
STATE RADON OFFICES
Alabama
Department of Public Health
Radiological Health Branch
State Office Building
Montgomery, AL 36130
1-800-582-1866
Georgia
Dept. of Human Resources
878 Peachtree St.
Room 100
Atlanta, GA 30309
404-894-6644
Florida
HRS Office of Radiation Control/Radon
1317 Winewood Blvd.
Tallahassee, FL 32499-0700
1-800-543-8279
Kentucky
Cabinet for Human Resources
Radiation Control Branch
275 E. Main Street
Frankfort, KY 40621
502-564-3700
Mississippi
Dept. of Health
Division of Radiological Health
P.O. Box1700
Jackson, MS 39215-1700
601-354-6657
North Carolina
Dept. of Environment, Health, and
Natural Resources
Radiation Protection Division
P.O. Box 27687
Raleigh, NC 27611-7687
919-571-4141
South Carolina Tennessee
Dept. of Health & Environmental Control Div. of Air Pollution Control
Bureau of Radiological Health Custom House
2600 Bull St. 701 Broadway
Columbia, SC 29201 Nashville, TN 37243-1531
803-734-4700/4631 615-741-4634
ASBESTOS:
EPA has published a number of helpful documents. For copies,
phone the
EPA ASBESTOS HOTLINE
202-554-1404
Or contact
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Regional Asbestos Coordinator
345 Courtland Street, NE
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-5014
page 29
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Part II Around the Farm
page 30
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The Importance of Smart Nutrient Management
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Much of the fertilizer applied by farmers each year is wasted. Not
only are farm profits reduced, but some of the fertilizer ends up in
our lakes or drinking waterwhere it can cause serious problems.
Smart nutrient management begins with basic soil erosion control.
High rates of soil erosion from crop fields means that excessive
amounts of soil, water, and precious nutrients are simply being
washed away each time it rains. A mixture of traditional conserva-
tion practices and crop management adjustments might be needed
to reduce high rates of erosion.
After excessive soil erosion is checked, the smart farmer will apply
the right amount of fertilizer, at the right time, for the best result.
He will test his soil and manure for nutrient content before adding
fertilizer and will use planting and application methods that con-
serve water and reduce soil erosion. He will also know that apply-
ing too much of even a good thing is a waste of money. By apply-
ing only the amount of nutrients the plants can use, costs are kept
down, while crop yields remain steady or increase.
Using Nitrogen Wisely. Nitrogen is essential for plant growth. In
the soil, nitrogen is converted into nitrates which dissolve easily in
water, making them readily available to plants. But research shows
that average crop uptake of nitrogen fertilizer is only about 50%.
What happens to the remaining nitrogen? Much of it is lost, either
through leaching below the root zone or to the air.
SOUND NUTRIENT MANAGEMENT
means using
the right amount of fertilizer
in the right place
at the right time
for the highest economical yield
with the smallest loss of nutrients
to ground or surface waters.
-------
Ground-Water Contamination. Some of that lost nitrogen can con-
taminate the ground water. Since most people in rural areas drink
untreated ground water from wells and springs, preventing nitrate
contamination of ground water is very important. Contamination
most often occurs either because 1) too much nitrogen is applied;
or 2) the fertilizer is applied at the wrong time, before the crop can
use it; or 3) the fertilizer is applied to sandy or limestone soils that
cannot hold it.
A Serious Health Threat. Nitrate contamination of drinking water is
a health threat, especially to children. The most serious documented
effect of nitrate contamination is known as "blue baby disease." In
this condition, nitrates react chemically with the baby's blood and
can, in extreme cases, result in suffocation.
Using Phosphorus Wisely. Similar arguments can be made for the
smart use of phosphorus, another nutrient essential for plant
growth. Phosphorus helps plants convert sunlight into food. How
much phosphorus is available to plants usually depends on the type
of soil, not on the type of plant. This is because phosphorus, unlike
nitrates, does not dissolve in water. It is usually "tied up" with soil,
and is lost either through crop uptake or erosion.
For this reason, applying phosphorus at the right time and in the
right way is very important, and can save you money. In fact, most
plants don't need large amounts of phosphorus. Manure may pro-
vide most of your crop's phosphorus needs.
Surface Water Contamination. The single most important source of
pollution of lakes and ponds today is sediment from non-point
sources, such as agricultural fields. Sediments containing phospho-
rus add nutrients to water. This encourages the growth of algae and
aquatic plants and speeds up the natural aging process of lakes and
ponds.
What You Can Do Conservation Plans. Get the most for your money. Develop a Plan
for your farm that combines needed conservation practices and
improved management into Resource Management Systems (RMSs).
RMSs protect all natural resources, including soil, water, air, plants,
and animals from degradation while maintaining or improving farm
income. A few considerations are listed here.
1. Control Soil Erosion and Runoff to reduce potential contamina-
tion of lakes and streams while retaining nutrients and soil. Use
Filter Strips between fields and open bodies of water to trap nutri-
ents before they contaminate surface water.
page 32
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2. Set Realistic Yield Goals, taking into account soil texture and
drainage characteristics, weather, and previous field yields. Keeping
accurate records for each field over a number of years can be a big
help. Take the actual yield for a particular field for each of the last
five years, drop the poorest year, and average the remaining four
yields. Keep track also of the type of crop planted and the amount
and types of manure or other fertilizer applied.
3. Test Both Soil and Manure to determine nutrient content. Soil
should be tested in the early spring, for pH as well as residual nutri-
ent content. Manure should be tested every three years or whenev-
er feed mixture or bedding is changed. You may be able to reduce
the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus needed from other sources.
4. Apply Manure or Fertilizer When They Are Of Most Use to the
Crop. Once the crop has passed the stage of highest nitrogen
uptake, applied nitrogen will not benefit the plants.
5. Apply Manure or Fertilizer Where They Are Of Most Use to the
Crop. Incorporate nitrogen applications into the soil to prevent sur-
face runoff and cut down on losses to the air. About 50% of the
nitrogen in manure is available the first year if it is incorporated
within 3 days. Place phosphorus next to rows for greatest plant
uptake. Banding, sub-surface injection, and split application can
also increase the availability of the phosphorus to the plant.
6. Use Crop Management that includes rotations, proper variety
and hybrid selection, appropriate seeding rates, planting times, pest
control, and water management to help ensure yield goals are met
and applied nutrients are used. Apply cover crops to "scavenge" for
unused nutrients.
7. Establish or manage vegetation along the banks of streams and
drainage ways. These buffers have many benefits including filtering
and uptake of water pollutants before they reach the stream. A plan
that includes a designed sequence of trees, shrubs, and grassy
plants works best. These areas can be managed as multipurpose
environmental corridors.
Soil and Water Conservation Practices
Slow and Control Runoff and Reduce Soil Erosion
1. Grassed Waterways 2. Contour Strip Cropping 3. Diversions
4. Terraces 5. Conservation Tillage 6. Grass/Legume Rotations
7. Cover Crops 8. Buffer or Filter Strips 9. Tile Outlet Terraces
10. Water/Sediment Control Basins
page 33
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Where to Get
More Help
Recommended Separation Distance
for Surface Application of Organic Wastes
by Type of Application Method
Streams
Lakes
Water Wei Is
Sinkholes
Surface
Spreading
100-3 00 ft.
100-3 00 ft.
200 ft.
1 00 ft.
Incorporation
or Injection
50ft.
1 00 ft.
200 ft.
50ft.
Irrigation
200 ft.
300 ft.
200 ft.
200 ft.
For more information, contact:
U.S. EPA, Region 4
Watershed Unit Chief
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-2126
or the
USDA Soil Conservation Service
The following publications provide valuable information. They are
available from the Regional EPA office or from the organizations
listed below.
Q Treasure of Abundance or Pandora's Box. (Soil and Water Con-
servation Society. 7515 Northeast Ankeny Road, Ankeny, Iowa
50021. 505-289-2331)
Q Fact Sheets on Nitrogen, Pesticide, Phosphorus. (Conservation
Technology Information Center, 1220 Potter Drive, Room 170,
West Lafayette, IN 47906-1334, 31 7-494-9555)
Q Alternative Agriculture (Board on Agriculture, National Research
Council, National Academy Press, 2101 Constitution Avenue,
NW, Washington, DC 20418)
Q Protecting our Groundwater: A Grower's Guide. (American
Farm Bureau Federation, National Agricultural Aviation Associa-
tion, National Agricultural Chemicals Association, U.S. Dept. of
Agriculture, Extension Service)
Q Riparian Forest Buffers, Function and Design for Protection and
Enhancement of Water Resources. NA-PR-07-91 (U.S. Dept. of
Agriculture, Forest Service)
Q Field Office Technical Guide (U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Soil
Conservation Service)
page 34
-------
Managing Animal Waste
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Even a small livestock operation generates substantial amounts of
waste products. For example, one 50 cow dairy herd produces the
equivalent of 100,000 IDS. of 10-4-8 fertilizer every year. In larger
operations, the sheer volume of accumulated wastes can present a
major disposal problem. If improperly handled, these by-products
can contaminate ground and surface waters, and pollute rivers,
streams, and drinking water wells.
Treating animal wastes as a usable by-product or disposing of
wastes properly can save you money and reduce your risk of dam-
aging the environment. In the process, you will also improve your
overall operation. Effective management practices will:
reduce fertilizer costs
improve soil quality
protect water resources, air quality and health.
More than just manure. Most people immediately think of manure
when they think of animal waste, but poultry and livestock opera-
tions produce other wastes as well. A total waste management pro-
gram should take into account all of the sources of waste in an
operation. This section focuses primarily on controlling manure,
but the organizations and reference materials listed at the end of
this chapter can help you improve your management of all your
operation's wastes.
A comprehensive animal waste management program. The chart
on the following page gives information on dairy, cattle, poultry, and
swine operations. It estimates
typical waste
products, amounts of
X-^ manure generated, and the
^1L fertilizer value of each type
of manure. A careful
examination of the chart
will help you estimate
the volume of wastes in
your operation.
-------
Dairy Cattle
Manure generated:
1000 pounds live weight = 14 to 15 tons manure/year.
50 cow herd = 1,000 tons/year.
Fertilizer Value:
1 ton of manure = 100 Ibs. of 10-4-8 fertilizer
Typical Waste Products:
washwater polluted rainfall runoff
waste milk waste feed
manure milk from fresh cows
cleansers/disinfectants
Beef Cattle
Manure generated:
1000 pounds live weight = 10 to 11 tons manure/year.
50 cow herd = 500 tons/year.
Fertilizer Value:
1 ton of manure = 100 Ibs. of 11 -7-10 fertilizer
Typical Waste Products:
manure waste feed
polluted runoff from
pastures and holding areas
Poultry
Manure generated:
100,000 layers = 11 tons manure/day, 3,800 tons/year
100,000 broilers = 6 tons/day, 2,000 tons/year
Fertilizer Value:
1 ton of manure = 100 Ibs. of 15-20-15 fertilizer
Typical Waste Products:
egg washwater waste feed
bad or broken eggs dead birds
flush water manure
Swine
Manure generated:
100 Ibs. live weight = 1 gallon manure/day
1 finishing pig = 2 tons/year
Fertilizer Value:
1 ton of manure = 100 Ibs. of 10-9-8 fertilizer
Typical Waste Products:
waste feed manure (feces and urine)
dead animals washwater
rainfall runoff leaking watering devices
page 36
-------
What You Can Do Establish a comprehensive waste management system. The four
parts of an efficient system are:
1. Collection.
2. Transportation.
3. Storage for use as fertilizer or treatment and disposal.
4. Treatment and utilization
1. Collection. Collection methods include scraping, washing, and
flushing, and the use of slotted floors that allow manure to drop into
pits for removal. In poultry operations, scrapers on cables beneath
cages are common. In swine production, sloping floors and collect-
ing/flushing gutters are often used. Regardless of the method used,
the system must be properly operated and maintained.
2. Transportation. The type of system you use to transport manure
depends primarily on whether you are storing waste temporarily for
use as a fertilizer or are treating and disposing of it.
Depending upon the operation, manure can be moved by manure
spreaders, pumps, cross conveyors, or augers. In some operations,
movement is through a liquid system such as gravity flow, flushing
pits or pumping.
3. Storage for later use as fertilizer. The purpose of storage facilities
is to conserve nutrients and make the waste a better soil conditioner
and fertilizer. The type of storage system wet or dry will
depend on your operation and your nutrient needs. Regardless of
which method is used, care must be taken to operate and maintain
the system properly. If manure is stored improperly or for too long, it
will decompose and nutrients will be lost.
Wet storage systems use storage ponds, concrete pits, and above
ground tanks to store liquid wastes for a short time up to 60 days.
When needed, sludge and liquid are mixed and spread on the land.
Advantages of a wet system include lower construction costs and a
smaller required land area.
Dry storage systems allow longer term storage up to six months.
The systems consist of a dry, covered stack, and a separate storage
pond to collect washwater from a milking parlor and/or runoff from
feedlots. It is essential that the dry stack be covered and gutters and
curbs installed to keep rain water out of the storage area.
page 37
-------
4. Treatment and Utilization. Apply animal wastes in proper
amounts and at appropriate times to meet the needs of growing crops.
If over-fertilizing is a problem, especially in fields located near
streams or lakes, consider treating animal wastes in a lagoon system.
Lagoons lower the nutrient value of manure and other wastes and
reduce the risk of water pollution. Phosphorus is reduced by as much
as 90 percent; nitrogen by as much as 60 to 90 percent.
Both solids and liquids, such as runoff or wastewater, are collected in
the lagoon, which can be anaerobic or aerobic. Anaerobic lagoons
break down animal wastes without using oxygen or aeration. These
lagoons are small, but very deep, and odor is sometimes a problem.
They can not handle human waste. Aerobic lagoons use oxygen to
break down animal wastes. They are shallower than anaerobic
lagoons and need a larger land area. They also create less odor.
Sludge from both types of lagoons must be removed periodically, and
can be applied to the land as needed.
Operation and Maintenance. Whether you raise cows, swine, or
poultry, one thing is certain. The success of your waste management
system will depend in part on how well you maintain and operate it.
To get the most value from your system:
incorporate waste utilization into your crop nutrient
management plan.
establish collection schedules.
apply waste on land at the right time, in the right place, and
in the right amounts.
manage surface water runoff.
control odors and pests.
apply wastes away from streams and waterways.
use sound safety guidelines.
maintain grass filter strips.
sample nutrient content of the waste and the soil regularly
and keep accurate records.
repair leaks to watering devices.
ventilate properly to prevent buildup of toxic vapors
or excess humidity.
check weather conditions before applying. Do not apply
wastes before a predicted rain or when the humidity is high.
upgrade size of waste management facilities consistent with
size of the animal operation.
page 38
-------
Other Considerations
A comprehensive waste management system will take these important things into consideration.
Land application. To obtain the greatest value
from your animal wastes, first calculate how
much, nutrient the crop needs. Apply nutrients
during the period of maximum crop uptake. This
chart gives examples of nitrogen, phosphate, and
potash removal from soil by various crops. For a
more detailed discussion of this topic, see chapter
8 of this Guide.
| Slop«|, Diversion
-Sflttllng terrac*
I t
-------
Where to Get The Tennessee Valley Authority's excellent pamphlets on animal
More Help waste management provided much of the information for this chap-
ter. To obtain copies of Cattle Waste Management, Dairy Waste
Management, Swine Waste Management, Poultry Waste Manage-
ment, or Constructed Wetlands for Wastewater Treatment, contact:
The Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA)
Citizen Action Line
1-800-362-9250
(Tennessee)
1-800-251-9242
(Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, Kentucky, Missouri, Mississippi, N. Carolina, Virginia)
Another exceptional series that provided valuable information is
published by the University of Delaware's College of Agricultural
Sciences. For copies of Manure Management for Environmental
Protection, Field Application of Manure, Beef Manure Management,
Dairy Manure Management, Poultry Manure Management, Dead
Poultry Disposal, Swine Manure Management, or Horse-Sheep-
Goat and Small Animal Manure Management, contact the
Agricultural Experiment Station, Cooperative Extension
University of Delaware
Newark, Delaware 1971 7
Additional help is available from:
your local conservation district
U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)
Your Local Soil Conservation Service (SCS)
Your local agricultural Extension Service
Your local Agricultural Stabilization and Conservation Service
(ASCS)
or
U.S. EPA Region 4
Water Management Division
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-2126
page 40
-------
Pesticide Use on the Farm
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Jfe* tf
^ j£$&$&&
V*>:-y /(.-^
\JLJ&
Many farm families live close to croplands treated with pesticides,
and get their drinking water from wells located near these fields. If
not properly applied, these pesticides can contaminate the ground
water that supplies a farm's drinking water well, or be blown
towards people and animals on windy days. The health effects of
long-term exposure to the chemicals in pesticides can be significant,
especially for individuals who are particularly sensitive to them.
Federal registration of pesticides. No pesticide may be distributed
or used legally in the United States unless its label has an EPA regis-
tration number. The Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide
Act (FIFRA) governs the registration of pesticides. This law prohibits
the use of any pesticide product except as indicated on the product
label, and requires that all persons who purchase and/or apply cer-
tain pesticides (those with a restricted use) be certified. EPA labels a
pesticide for restricted use based upon its potential harm to humans
or the environment.
Material Safety Data Sheet. Best Management Practices (BMPs) are
necessary to see that no potentially harmful exposure occurs while
pesticides are being transported, mixed, applied, or disposed of. The
manufacturer of each pesticide you use should provide you with a
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). An MSDS gives detailed infor-
mation on the product's ingredients, the chemical characteristics of
its active ingredient(s), fire and explosion hazard information, health
data, protective procedures to use while handling the product, envi-
ronmental data (including important waste and container disposal
methods), and requirements for shipping.
Transporting pesticides. Care should
be taken to secure pesticide containers
before moving them to prevent damag-
ing containers.
Mixing and loading pesticides. Unfor-
tunately, many farmers mix their pesti-
cides at the water source, usually a
-------
Wise Pesticide Use
Means:
fiT
tf
Cf
Store in locked
buildingaway from
water source
Secure containers
before moving them.
Use only according to
label directions
Mix away from water
supply
Calibrate equipment
carefully
Dispose of empty
containers properly
well. If the well is not sealed properly, any residue can travel down
the side of the well and immediately contaminate the farmer's
water. For this reason, mixing and loading of a pesticide should be
done as far away as practical from your well. Remember also to
use an approved anti-backsiphoning device to protect your water
supply.
Maintaining your equipment. Calibrating your equipment for the
exact amount of pesticide required to do the job is very important.
Applying too much pesticide not only wastes your money, but can
damage crops and increase pesticide runoff during heavy storms.
Storing pesticides. Buy only as much pesticide as you need at any
one time. If you must store pesticides for longer periods, be sure to
keep them in their original containers, properly labeled, in a locked
areaaway from your water supply source. Heavy winds, or simply
corrosion from age, can damage containers and the resulting leakage
can seep into soil and contaminate ground water or be carried by
storm runoff into surface water supplies.
Disposing of pesticide containers. The empty containers from pes-
ticides, machinery chemicals, or fertilizers are not really empty.
They may contain the residue of powerful substances that can
injure people or animals and seriously contaminate ground water.
Disposing of them is not something to take lightly.
Follow Label Directions. By law, pesticide labels must include
instructions for container disposal.
Containers should usually be triple rinsed immediately after empty-
ing to remove any residues, and the rinse water should be added to
the spray tank to avoid contamination of other waters. The empty
containers should then be returned to the pesticide manufacturer
for reuse or refilling or taken to a sanitary landfill.
Mini-bulk systems. Mini-bulk systems should be considered by all
farmers using pesticides or herbicides on a large scale. Using mini-
bulk systems eliminates the problem of container disposal because
all containers are returned to the supplier. On the other hand, the
farmer may need to build a catch basin or use some other protective
measures to prevent the potential for greater harm from larger spills.
page 42
-------
What You Can Do When applying pesticides, remember these Best Management
Practices:
Do evaluate the potential for water contamination before
making the decision to use a specific pesticide.
Do evaluate the practicality of safer alternatives to chemical
pesticides.
Do read and follow all label directions.
Do post the MSDS in a place where it can be easily seen by
workers.
Do comply with all federal and state pesticide regulations.
Do be certain that applicators are trained and certified.
Do maintain and calibrate your equipment carefully.
Do mix and load pesticides away from wells or other water
sources.
Do store the pesticides in a safe, locked area, away from your
water supply.
Do dispose of pesticides and empty containers properly.
Where to Get Contact your soil or water conservation district office or your county
More Help extension agent for help in planning improved pest management.
You can also contact the following:
State Pesticide Agencies
Alabama Florida
Agricultural Chemistry/Plant Bureau of Pesticides
Industry Division Dept. of Agriculture
Dept. of Agriculture & Industries 3125 Conner Blvd. MC-1
P.O. Box 336 Tallahassee, FL 32301
Montgomery, AL 36193 904-487-2130
205-242-2656
Georgia Kentucky
Georgia Dept. of Agriculture Division of Pesticides
Entomology & Pesticide Division Dept. of Agriculture
Capitol Square, Suite 550 700 Capitol Plaza Tower
Atlanta, GA 30334 Frankfort, KY 40601
404-656-4958 502-564-7274
page 43
-------
Mississippi
Division of Plant Industry
Dept. of Agriculture & Commerce
P.O. Box 5207
Mississippi State, MS 39762
601-325-3390
South Carolina
Pesticides
Dept. of Fertilizer/Pest Control
256 Poole Agriculture Center
Clemson University
Clemson, SC 29634-0394
803-656-3171
North Carolina
Pesticides
Food & Drug Pesticide Section
Dept. of Agriculture
State Agriculture Building
Raleigh, NC 27611
919-733-3556
Tennessee
Plant Industries Division
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 40627, Melrose Station
Nashville, TN 37204
615-360-0130
Federal Agencies
National Pesticides Telecommunications Network Hotline
800-858-7378
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
345 Courtland St., NE
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-3222
Publications
Note: This chapter relied heavily on information in an excellent
publication entitled Nutrient and Pesticide Best Management Prac-
tices for Wisconsin Farms (University of Wisconsin-Extension and
the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, June 1989)
Other Publications
The following publications are available from the National Acade-
my Press, 2101 Constitution Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20418.
Q Pesticide Resistance: Strategies and Tactics for Management
(1986, ISBN 0-309-03627-5)
Q Pesticides and Groundwater Quality: Issues and Problems in
Four States (1986, ISBN 0-309-03649-9)
G Regulating Pesticides in Food: The Delaney Paradox (1987,
ISBN 0-309-03746-8)
page 44
-------
Farm Machinery Maintenance
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
One gallon of used oil from a single oil change can contaminate a
million gallons of fresh water. Other products used in farm machin-
ery maintenance, such as antifreeze and hydraulic fluid, contain
hazardous ingredients such as ethylene glycol or methanol, which
can harm streams, lakes, and rivers and ruin water supplies and
related recreational activities.
The by-products of farm machinery maintenance include used oil,
old tires, worn-out parts, anti-freeze and lead-acid batteries. By
using proven disposal and recycling techniques for these by-
products, you can reduce the amount of pollution that reaches the
environment, increase efficiency, and save money.
Maintenance. When doing maintenance on farm machinery, keep
environmental protection in mind. Don't allow fluids to leak onto
the ground or pavement, where they can wash off and contaminate
streams or lakes.
Disposal of farm machinery by-products can involve expensive and
sometimes environmentally unsound options. If disposed of in
unlined landfills, by-products can break down and leach pollutants
into the soil, eventually contaminating the ground water. Worn-out
machine parts and tires also take up large amounts of scarce landfill
space.
Recycle whenever possible. This not only eliminates disposal prob-
lems, but can save money and generate new businesses. It takes
only one gallon of used oil to yield the same 2.5 quarts of lubricat-
ing oil provided by 42 gallons of crude oil. In fact, recycling used
oil could save the United States more than one million barrels of oil
per day, and reduce our dependence on foreign oil supplies.
Problems with Underground Storage Tanks are common and some-
times severe. Storage tanks should be examined regularly for leaks
that could contaminate ground water: It costs much less to prevent
a problem than to clean it up.
-------
What You Can Do
Farm Machinery Maintenance
Safe Practices
When doing maintenance on farm
machinery, remember to follow direc-
tions exactly and comply with all local,
state, and EPA regulations for use and
disposal.
1. Do not let fluids spill or leak
onto the ground, where they can
eventually find their way into
your water supply.
2. Dispose of wastes properly.
3. Recycle any materials you can.
EPA and state regulations. Finally, remember that many states and
the federal government have issued regulations that you must fol-
low when disposing of, recycling, or cleaning up spills of
potentially hazardous fluids.
Information on maintenance, disposal and recycling of some com-
mon by-products follows. For more detailed information, consult
the sources listed at the end of this chapter.
Waste Oil. When you are changing the oil in your vehicle, collect
the used oil, and take it to a service station or other collection facili-
ty for disposal or recycling. Do not dump it in the sewer or on the
ground.
Old Tires. Tires cannot be safely landfilled. Bring your old tires to
a local tire recycling facility or to a tire dealer. All tire dealers
accept old tires when you purchase new ones.
Worn-out parts. Farm machinery generates a large number of
worn-out parts. Do not put them aside to rust and deteriorate.
Metal salvage dealers buy worn-out parts, or you can use local pub-
lic recycling services. You can also recycle steel cans. Steel mills
and detinners buy scrap metal.
page 46
-------
Antifreeze. Some auto dealers and service stations now collect
antifreeze for recyclers. Do not dump used antifreeze on the
ground or down the drain.
Batteries (lead-acid). The only safe way to dispose of a battery is to
bring it to a recycling facility. When batteries are disposed of in
solid waste landfills, lead, a toxic metal, can leach into soil and
ground water. Most states have legislation requiring wholesalers
and retailers to accept used batteries for recycling (there may be a
fee).
Leaking tanks. Most leaks come from tank failure or from leaks in
piping or fittings. The most important thing you can do is prevent
leaks. If you detect a leak, clean up the contaminated area immedi-
ately. Tanks may be subject to EPA regulations, and you should be
familiar with them (see chapter 12).
Spill control. Spills are caused by over-filling tanks or by improper-
ly disconnecting the fill pipes from the delivery trucks. Use
effective controls when filling your tanks to prevent contamination
of surface and ground water. Make sure the volume available in the
tank is more than the amount of the product to be transferred.
Watch the transfer operation carefully, and use equipment that lim-
its spills and over-fills.
How it can worksuccess stories. In Florida, Georgia, and Ken-
tucky, government, volunteers and private businesses are working to
establish and maintain used oil recycling programs.
In 1988, the Governor's Energy Office (GEO) of the state of Florida
transferred $18.5 million in oil overcharge funds to the state's Dept.
of Environmental Regulation (DER). The money is being used for
recycling and education, with $2.5 million of it specifically desig-
nated for used oil recycling. Grants totalling $1 million were
distributed to local governments to set up public used oil collection
facilities. By June 1989, 200 of these centers had been established.
Dade County used its grant to purchase four 280-gallon used oil
tanks that do-it-yourselfers could easily use. Public response was so
great that the tanks were almost half-filled before the program offi-
cially began.
page 47
-------
Hernado County used its grant money to set up a curbside collec-
tion program that serves 25,000 households. And service stations
throughout the state have volunteered to serve as collection stations
for used oil.
In Georgia and Kentucky, partnerships of government, business, and
volunteers are also working to set up collection centers and educate
the public about the dangers of improper disposal of oil.
Where to Get The following publications on recycling used oil are available free
More Help bY calling the EPA RCRA/Superfund Toll-free Hotline: 800-424-9346
Q How to Set up a Local Program to Recycle Used Oil
(EPA/530-SW-89-039A)
Q 10 Steps to Change Your Oil (EPA/530-SW039D)
Q Recycling Used Oil: What You Can Do (EPA/530-SW039B)
Another publication, especially useful for farmers concerned about
underground storage tanks, is available from the Superintendent of
Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC
20402.
Q Musts for USTs (EPA/055-000-00294-1, cost $2.50)
Information is also available from:
State Agencies
Georgia
GA Dept. of Natural Resources
Environmental Protection Division
404-656-2833 or 800-33-GA-EPD
Kentucky
Division of Conservation
Department of Natural Resources
502-564-3080
Florida
Dept. of Environmental Regulation
904-488-0300
Federal Agencies
U.S. EPA
Office of Underground Storage Tanks
P.O. Box 6044
Rockville, MD 20850
U.S. EPA, Region 4
345 Courtland Street, NE
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-7603
page 48
-------
Underground Storage Tanks
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Several million underground storage tanks systems in the United
States contain oil or hazardous chemicals. According to current esti-
mates, 15 to 20 percent of these tanks, including their piping, may
be leaking. Many more are expected to leak in the future.
Leaks and spills can be a serious threat to human health and safety.
Petroleum can contaminate soil, drinking water, and air. Petroleum
and its resulting vapors can also accumulate in nearby confined
spaces, such as septic tanks and the basements of homes. These
vapors are poisonous and can cause fire or explosion.
A leaking underground tank on a farm can be a serious threat to
underground water sources and water supply wells. A leak of only
one gallon of gasoline can make one million gallons of water
undrinkable. Farms that depend upon water wells could find them-
selves without usable ground water and the results could drastically
affect farm operations.
What are underground storage tanks? An underground storage tank
(UST) is any tank, including underground piping connected to the
tank, that has at least ten percent of its volume underground. The
United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) regulates only
USTs storing either petroleum or certain hazardous chemicals. How-
ever, your state or local authority may have regulations that are
somewhat different or more strict. Contact your local fire depart-
ment or one of the state agencies listed at the end of this chapter for
more information.
Some farm tanks are exempt. Farm or residential tanks holding
// 1,100 gallons or less of motor fuel for noncommercial purpos-
""~ es or heating oil for use on the premises where stored are
exempt. A farm tank is a tank located on a tract of land
-------
WHY DO USTs CAUSE PROBLEMS?
No Corrosion Protection
Most of the UST systems already
in the ground have tanks and
piping made of bare steel. When
unprotected steel is buried in the
ground, it can be eaten away by
corrosion. The UST regulations
require corrosion protection for
all USTs.
Spills and Overfills
In addition to leaks from tanks and
piping, spills and overfills cause
many UST releases. When more
petroleum is delivered into the
tank than it can hold, an overfill
happens. When a delivery truck's
hose is disconnected incorrectly, a
spill results.
Installation Mistakes
Tanks and piping also leak if they
are not installed properly. Instal-
lation includes excavation, tank
system siting, burial depth, tank
system assembly, backfilling of the
tank system, and surface grading.
Many mistakes can be made dur-
ing installation. For example, if
poorly selected or compacted
backfill material is used when
covering the UST, or if pipe fittings
are inadequately attached to the
UST, then leaking can result. You
can avoid mistakes made during
installation by using an installer
who carefully follows approved
installation procedures.
I '"" "
Piping Failures
EPA studies show that most leaks
result from piping failure. Piping
is smaller and less sturdy than
tanks. It is assembled in the field
with numerous connections and
usually is installed near the
ground's surface. As a result, pip-
ing suffers much more than tanks
from the effects of installation mis-
takes, excessive surface loads, the
stress of underground movement,
and corrosion. Using a skilled
installer is even more critical to
the proper installation. It is
important to remember that the
regulations apply to the entire UST
systemboth tanks and piping.
-------
What You Can Do
Where to Get
More Help
devoted to the production of crops or raising animals, including fish,
and associated residences and improvements. A farm tank must be
located on the farm property. "Farm" includes fish hatcheries,
rangeland, and nurseries with growing operations.
Other exemptions. Other kinds of storage tanks that are not covered
by the EPA regulations are :
tanks on or above the floor of underground areas, such as base-
ments or tunnels.
septic tanks and systems for collecting storm water and
wastewater.
flow-through process tanks.
tanks holding 1,110 gallons or less.
emergency spill and overfill tanks.
Contact your state or local agency for information on minimum
standards for your state. Remember that all USTs that hold more
than 1,100 gallons are regulated, including those located on farms.
Farm owners of these USTs must meet minimum standards, which
may vary by state.
Evaluate your existing USTs for leakage. This will protect valuable
ground-water sources. Here again, state and local agencies can
provide information and guidance on leak detection as well as
information on how to install new underground storage systems.
For further information, contact your local fire department or:
STATE AGENCIES:
Alabama Florida
AL Dept. of Environmental Management FL Dept. of Environmental Regulation
Ground Water Section, Water Division Twin Towers Office Building
1751 Congressman W.L.Dickerson Drive Room 403
Montgomery, AL 36130 2600 Blair Stone Road
205-271 -7832 Tallahassee, FL 32399-2400
904-488-3935
Georgia
Underground Storage Tank
Management Program
4244 International Parkway
Suite 100
Atlanta, GA 30354
404-362-2687
Kentucky
Underground Storage Tank Branch
Hazardous Waste Branch
KY Dept. of Environmental Protection
Fort Boone Plaza, Building #2
18 Reilly Road
Frankfort, KY 40601
502-564-6716
page 51
-------
Mississippi
Bureau of Pollution Control
MS Dept. of Environmental Quality
P.O. Box10385
Jackson, MS 39209-0385
601-961-5142
North Carolina
Pollution Control Branch
NC Dept. of Environment, Health &
Natural Resources
P.O. Box 27687
Raleigh, NC 27611-7687
919-733-8486
South Carolina
Groundwater Protection Division
Bureau of Drinking Water Protection
SC Dept. of Health and Environmental
Control
Columbia, SC 29201
803-734-4613
Tennessee
Division of Underground Storage Tanks
TN Dept. of Health and Environment
Doctors Building, Suite 200
706 Church Street
Nashville, TN 37247-4101
615-741-4081
PUBLICATIONS:
The following EPA publications are available from the Superinten-
dent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington,
DC 20402, (202) 783-3238:
Q Musts for USTs: A Summary of the Regulations for Under-
ground Storage Tank Systems (stock no. 055-000-0294-1,)
U Normas y Procedimientos para T.S.A. (Spanish language ver-
sion of Musts for USTs)
Q Dollars and Sense: A Summary of the Financial Responsibility
Regulations for Underground Storage Tank Systems
These EPA publications are available at no cost from the Office of
Underground Storage Tanks, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency,
P.O. Box 6044, Rockville, MD 20850:
Q Leak Lookout: Using External Leak Detectors to Prevent
Petroleum Contamination from Underground Storage Tanks.
Q Straight Talk on Tanks: A Summary of Leak Detection Methods
for Petroleum Underground Storage Tank Systems.
Q Oh No! Petroleum Leaks and Spills: What Do You Do?
page 52
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Farm Ponds An Important Water Resource
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
A pond can be an important water resource for a farmer. When
well-constructed and maintained, a pond can provide a clean water-
ing place for livestock and a dependable irrigation supply. Warm
water ponds can provide excellent fishing, swimming, and boating
and sometimes extra income for the farmer as well.
Designing and constructing a farm pond properly is not an easy task.
You may want to get professional help from county, state, or federal
agencies. Resources are listed at the end of this chapter.
Before building any type of pond, you must answer some important
questions:
What is the best location for my needs?
Is the soil suitable?
How big must the pond be? How deep?
How should it be constructed?
What must I do to maintain my pond?
Location. If the farm pond is to be used for watering livestock, it
should be located near the pasture. In fact, you may want to consid-
er constructing a pond for each major grazing area to protect both
livestock and pastures.
If the farm pond is to be used for watering crops, locating the pond
near the fields it will irrigate will reduce pumping costs.
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Soil Suitability. Some soils are simply not suitable for pond con-
struction. These include soils above limestone containing crevices,
sinks, or channels. A non-porous clay-type soil is the most suitable
because it will hold water and prevent water loss through seepage.
It is a good idea to bore a number of test holes to help evaluate the
soil. Fill the test holes with water. If the water seeps out quickly,
the soil is probably too porous for your needs. To be certain, you
may want to have the soil tested.
If you are excavating a pond that will be fed by an underground
aquifer, the borings will help you calculate how quickly the pond
will replenish itself. If the water rises too slowly, the area may not
be suitable for an irrigation pond.
Size and depth. The size and depth of ponds will vary, depending
on the intended use. A livestock water supply must take into
account the number and kind of animals that will depend on it:
beef cattle and dairy cows need about 15 gallons of water per head
per day; swine require four gallons per head per day.
An irrigation pond must be able to supply water throughout the
growing season. When determining the size of an irrigation pond,
you must take into account the water needs of the intended crop,
expected rainfall, and the rate at which water flows into the pond
from springs, a well, or an underground aquifer.
A fish pond should have a surface area of at least one acre for good
largemouth bass and bluegill production. (A good rule of thumb is
one acre of pond per 10 to 20 acres of watershed.) It should be at
least three to four feet deep deeper if located in an area subject
to winter freeze.
Pond construction. How you construct your pond will depend
largely on its size, function, and soil type. Although every embank-
ment pond has certain common elements a dam, an emergency
spillway and an overflow pipe how these are built requires engi-
neering expertise for all but the simplest projects. The wise farmer
will consult one of the resources listed at the end of this chapter for
assistance.
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What You Can Do Maintain your pond to prevent damage to dams and spillways and
increase fish yield. Establish and maintain strong vegetative cover
on all disturbed areas.
1. Inspect your pond periodically, especially after heavy rains.
Repair damage to dams and spillways immediately to prevent costly
repairs later.
2. Control erosion. Planting trees, grasses and shrubbery around
the pond will not only make the pond a more pleasant place, but
will prevent soil loss and protect water quality. Do not allow
woody plant growth on dams or spillway areas. In some cases, it
may be necessary to divert storm runoff from barnyards, feedlots,
and fertilized fields. Contour farming and other soil erosion tech-
niques can help. Fish ponds may need to be fenced to protect them
from grazing stock.
3. Maintain water quality. Check the oxygen level of the pond to
make sure that decaying plant matter is not robbing the water of
oxygen. Check the pH to make sure that the water is not too acidic
to support fish. (Along coastal plains in the southeast, excavated
ponds may have pH levels of 4.0 or less.)
4. Fertilize for maximum fish production. You may need to add
fertilizer to a pond to increase the number of microscopic plants on
which certain insects and fish feed. However, you must be careful
not to over-fertilize a fish pond.
5. Fence livestock out of the pond. Bacteria from wandering live-
stock can contaminate your pond. If using the pond to provide
water, install a supply pipeline and a watering trough below the
pond. This will keep your water clean and protect the water quality.
6. Consider constructing a wetland to improve water quality in
your fishpond. In Hattiesburg, Mississippi, a constructed wetland is
successfully removing ammonia, phosphorus and other contami-
nants from a four acre catfish pond. Wetland plants filter and purify
the water, which is then returned to the pond. The owner's savings
over conventional systems have been substantial. Energy costs are
less, odor is reduced, and the improved water quality has resulted
in a 40 percent increase in fish production.
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Where to Get Your local soil conservation district, Soil Conservation Service, or
More Help state department offish and wildlife can assist you in planning and
constructing your farm pond.
For additional information, contact the:
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
345 Courtland St., NE
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
494-347-2126
The following publications provided valuable information for this
section and are recommended to the reader. They are:
Q Ponds Planning, Design, Construction (U.S. Department of
Agriculture, Soil Conservation Service, Agriculture Handbook
Number 590)
Q Kentucky Farmponds (Kentucky Fish and Wildlife Resources)
Q Warm Water Fishponds (U.S. Department of Agriculture,
Farmers' Bulletin No. 2250)
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Wetlands Protection and the Farmer
Why You Should Care
What You
should Know
More than half of America's wetlands in the lower 48 states have
been destroyed since the 1600's. Of the remaining wetlands, one-
third are located in the eight southern states of Alabama, Kentucky,
North Carolina, South Carolina, Florida, Georgia, Mississippi and
Tennessee.
Wetlands were once seen as useless areas to be drained or converted
to farmland and other uses. We now know that wetlands are valu-
able natural resources. Among other things, wetlands:
help improve water quality by removing nutrients and other
pollutants.
reduce flood and storm damage.
recharge underground water supplies.
provide important fish and wildlife habitat.
support hunting, fishing, and other recreational activities.
What are wetlands? Wetlands is a collective term for marshes,
swamps, bogs, and similar areas that often occur between open
water and dry land. Wetland areas usually occur where water is
found at or near the ground surface, or in places where the ground
is covered by shallow water.
Some wetlands are easy to identify by sight, particularly those with
plants growing in standing waters. Examples of these include
marshes, bogs, and swamps. Others are harder to recognize, partic-
ularly those that are dry for part of the year. These include bottom-
land hardwoods and certain pine flatwoods. When in doubt, it is
jlecessary that someone trained in the identification of wetlands
-. -*
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Federal Programs
Protecting Wetlands
Section 404 of the
Clean Water Act
examine the area carefully for three major indicators vegetation,
soil, and surface and ground water characteristics. If the area is
determined to be a wetland, authorization from the U.S. Army
Corps of Engineers may be needed in order to conduct certain
activities in these areas.
Two federal programs protect wetlands. The two federal laws that
protect wetlands from some types of farming activities are Section
404 of the Clean Water Act and the Swampbuster Provisions of the
Food Security Act. The laws are discussed separately below.
Section 404 of the Clean Water Act.
Some activities that take place in "jurisdictional" wetlands are regu-
lated under Section 404 of the Clean Water Act. Jurisdictional wet-
lands are those that meet the criteria for vegetation, soil, and sur-
face and groundwater characteristics as established in the Federal
Manual for Identifying and Delineating Section 404 Jurisdictional
Wetlands. Section 404 is jointly administered by the U.S. Army
Corps of Engineers (COE) and the U.S. EPA.
Under this program, any activity that involves the discharge of
dredged or fill material into a water of the U.S., which includes
rivers, streams, and jurisdictional wetlands, requires authorization
from the COE before the activity can take place. A discharge of
dredged or fill material generally involves the physical placement of
soil, sand, gravel, or dredged material into waters or wetlands.
Agricultural exemptions to Section 404. Many activities are specifi-
cally exempted in the Section 404 regulations, and require no autho-
rization from the COE before proceeding. These include normal
farming, ranching, and silviculture (forestry) activities. As long as an
activity is part of an established on-going farming operation, such as
seeding, plowing, cultivating, harvesting, and other normal activi-
ties, a farmer can continue these activities in a wetland. He does
not need a permit or any type of authorization from the federal gov-
ernment. Maintenance of drainage ditches and construction of farm
ponds associated with an established on-going farming operation are
also exempted from regulation. Exempt farm ponds are typically less
than 10 acres in size.
page 58
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Normal Farming Activities Exempted from
Section 404 Requirements
plowing
seeding
cultivating
harvesting
cropping pastured/hayed wetlands
maintaining drainage and irrigation
systems
constructing and maintaining ponds
required for farming operations
(usually 10 acres or less)
construction of farm roads using
Best Management Practices
emergency repairs of dams, levees,
and dikes
Farming Activities Not Exempted from
Section 404 Requirements
movement of earth during land-
clearing activities
redistribution of soil to fill in wetland
areas
rock plowing
placement of dikes or berms
discharge of materials alongside
major ditches
If a discharge will bring a wetland into new agricultural or silvicul-
tural production, the discharge will require authorization from the
COE prior to conducting the work.
"Prior Converted Wetlands" Are Not Jurisdictional Wetlands. In
addition to the farming exemptions that are specified in the Section
404 regulations, the COE made a determination in 1990 that wet-
lands which were both drained and cropped before December 23,
1985 to the extent that they no longer exhibit important wetland
values are not Jurisdictional wetlands for the purposes of the Sec-
tion 404 program. These areas are flooded with surface water for
no more than 14 consecutive days during the growing season and
are called "prior converted wetlands." This exemption from regula-
tion affects a large amount of historic cropland. This means that a
farmer can conduct any activity on these prior converted wetlands
without needing authorization from the federal government.
Prior converted cropland that has been abandoned for more than
five consecutive years since December 23, 1985, and where wet-
land conditions have returned, is not included in the exemption,
and is subject to regulation by Section 404. An area is considered
page 59
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abandoned if there has been no cropping, management, or mainte-
nance activities related to agricultural production for five consecu-
tive years.
Croplands remaining under Section 404 jurisdiction. The crop-
lands which remain under Section 404 jurisdiction are those which
were converted to farming uses prior to December 23, 1985, and
which continue to exhibit important wetland values in other
words, those croplands where the hydrology has not been signifi-
cantly altered. These are called "farmed wetlands" areas that are
inundated with surface water for 15 or more consecutive days (or
10 percent of the growing season, whichever is less). Even though
these croplands fall within 404 jurisdiction, normal, on-going farm-
ing activities such as those described above are exempt from regu-
lation. This means that a farmer can continue his normal farming
activities on farmed wetlands.
When a farmer needs authorization under Section 404. Authoriza-
tion from the COE is required when:
a farmer wants to change the use of a "farmed wetland" from
a farming use to another type of use, such as a residential or
commercial development.
a farmer wants to alter or modify a farmed wetland by
increasing the drainage or raising the elevation of the land so
that it no longer exhibits wetland functions.
a farmer wants to use mechanized land-clearing equipment
to convert a wetland area to cropland or to any other uses.
a farmer wants to convert a cropped wetland that has been
abandoned for more than five consecutive years since Dec.
23, 1985, to any use farming, residential, commercial, or
industrial.
Swampbuster Provisions
of the Swampbuster Provisions of the Food Security Act.
Food Security Act Another federal law, the 1985 Food Security Act, contains a provision
regarding wetland conversion. It is known as Swampbuster.
Swampbuster denies eligibility for all USDA farm programs to farms
who convert wetlands to croplands. This provision applies to all
commodity crops produced by those farmers, not just those produced
on the converted wetlands. Programs covered by Swampbuster
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regulations are USDA price and income supports, disaster payments,
crop insurance, Farmers Home Administration loans, Commodity
Credit Corporation storage payments, farm storage facility loans, Con-
servation Reserve Program payments, and other programs under
which payments are made with respect to commodities produced by
the farmer. Under Swampbuster provisions:
farmers who apply for certain USDA programs must certify
that they will not produce agricultural commodities on land
that was converted from wetland after December 23, 1985.
Each farm is professionally evaluated by the Soil Conserva-
tion Service.
farmers who plant agricultural commodities on land that was
converted from wetlands after the effective date will lose pro-
gram eligibility for all commodity crops they produce on any
land they own or operate. Agricultural commodities are
those that are seeded annually, including sugarcane.
artificial wetlands created by irrigation are exempted from
the Swampbuster policy. Also, in years of officially declared
drought, wetlands may be farmed if no steps are taken to
improve drainage.
What You Can Do Contact the District Office of the Corps of Engineers. They can help
you identify whether you have wetlands on your property and tell
you if a proposed activity requires authorization. Just because an
activity requires authorization does not necessarily mean it will be
prohibited. Some activities that significantly alter or modify a wet-
land may not be allowed.
Contact the Soil Conservation Service. You can avoid jeopardizing
your USDA program eligibility by checking with your local Agricul-
tural Stabilization and Conservation Service (ASCS) and SCS offices
about wetland conversion.
Contact the Cooperative Extension Service and your State Wildlife
Agency for help in managing the natural resources associated with
wetlands.
Where to Get For more information about wetlands, contact:
More Help Alabama Florida
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
P.O. Box 2288 P.O. Box 4970
Mobile, AL 36628-0001 Jacksonville, FL 32232-0019
205-690-2511 904-791-2242
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Georgia Kentucky
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
P.O. Bo* 889 P.O. Box 59
Savannah, GA 31402 Louisville, KY 40201
912-944-5133 502-352-5608
Mississippi North Carolina
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
P.O. Box 60 P.O. Box 1890
Vicksburg, MS 39180-0060 Wilmington, NC 28402
601-631-5276 919-251-4501
South Carolina Tennessee
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
P.O. Box 919 P.O. Box 1080
Charleston, SC 29402 Nashville, TN 37202
803-677-4229 615-852-5181
or
B-202 Federal Building
Memphis, TN 38103-1894
615-222-3221
Publications:
The following wetlands publications are available through the EPA
Toil-Free Wetlands Hotline, 1-800-832-7828 or from
U.S. EPA Region 4
Wetlands Regulatory Section Chief
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-4015
Q What is a Wetland? (EPA Fact Sheet)
Q Wetlands Protection (EPA Fact Sheet)
Q Section 404 Permit Process of the Clean Water Act - What
Farmers Should Know About Agricultural Activities in Wet-
lands (EPA Fact Sheet)
Q Clean Water Act Section 404 Regulatory Program and Agricul-
tural Activities (U.S. EPA and U.S. Dept. of Army Memoran-
dum for the Field, 3 May 1990 ).
Q Wetlands are Wonderlands (EPA Poster/Student Activity Page)
Q America's Wetlands: Vital Link Between Land and Wafer (EPA
Booklet)
Q EPA's Wetlands Advance Identification Program (EPA Fact
Sheet)
Q American Wetlands (EPA Brochure)
Q Recognizing Wetlands (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
Brochure)
page 62
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Managing Forestlands for Environmental Protection
Why You Should Care
What You
Should Know
Forests supply us with high quality water, wood products, wildlife
resources, and recreational enjoyment. But water pollution from
improperly managed forests can damage drinking water supplies,
aquatic habitat, and recreational activities that help support local
economies.
Best Management Practices. There are land management practices
that will protect water quality and related recreational values, pre-
serve the productive capacity of your land, and actually reduce
operation and maintenance costs. These Best Management Practices
(BMPs) are the accepted standards for road building, timber harvest-
ing, and other forest operations. They are designed to keep streams
and lakes clean by controlling soil erosion, chemical pesticides,
and tree removal near streams.
Forested Wetlands. Forested wetlands require special care. These
wetlands provide diverse habitat for fish and wildlife and protect
surface and ground water quality. They can be managed to produce
a variety of products, but because of their unique soils, vegetation,
and hydrology characteristics, they must be very carefully
managed perhaps more than other forests. Their continued
viability and diversity must be carefully protected, and harvesting
of timber and related management practices should be done only
after consultation with professional foresters and water quality
protection agencies. (See chapter 14.)
Soil erosion. Not only does erosion affect the future productivity
of the land, but it can damage nearby streams and ponds. This is
because sediment-bearing runoff harms fish and the aquatic insects
they depend upon for food. Muddy water also makes a stream or
lake undesirable to swimmers and fishermen.
-------
Forestry operations that can result in avoidable soil erosion are:
poorly designed and maintained forest roads.
steep and unstabilized skid trails.
intensive mechanical site preparation.
clear cuts on steep, erosive slopes.
Chemical applications. Pesticides and fertilizers that are used to
promote desirable species, discourage competition, and control
pests can pollute water if washed into streams and lakes, or if
allowed to come in direct contact with streams and lakes during
application.
Tree removal from stream banks reduces the amount of shade a
stream receives on hot summer days and can increase the water
temperature to levels that are harmful to some fish. Also, leaves,
twigs, and large woody debris are valuable food for insects that
form a critical part of the aquatic food chain.
What You Can Do There are BMP's for access roads and skid trails, site preparation,
tree planting, pesticide use, forest harvesting, fire control, and
streamside management zones. Each of these practices is discussed
briefly here. For details, contact your county forester or any of the
references listed at the end of this chapter.
Access roads and skid trails. When building access roads and skid
trails, plan the road layout in advance, and never build straight up a
hill. Keep road grades between 2% and 10%. Keep skid trails at
15% or less. Never allow logs to be skidded in or near streams.
Roads should approach streams only at crossings. Roads and skid
trails should be properly drained with waterbars, turnouts, culverts,
etc. to keep them useful and to protect streams and lakes below.
Skid trails and temporary roads should be seeded in grass or other
vegetation to prevent gullying.
Site preparation. When preparing land for tree planting, the three
important things to consider are fire lines, choice of mechanical
equipment, and use of herbicides. Minimize the slope of fire lines
and waterbars and reseed them after use. Use mechanical equip-
ment on contours, and do not remove topsoil when moving woody
page 64
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debris into piles. Use only registered herbicides, and only when
herbicides are clearly necessary to meet overall objectives for your
woodland.
Tree planting. When planting seedlings, plant by hand if possible.
If machine planting, plant on the contour.
Pesticide Use. When using chemicals to control insects or disease,
use only the appropriate pesticide for the insect or disease you are
targeting, and only the minimum amount necessary. Follow direc-
tions on the label carefully, both for application and disposal of any
excess product and the empty container. (See chapter 10.)
Forest Harvesting. Logging equipment (skidders, shears, cable sys-
tems) should be compatible with slope, soil, and moisture condi-
tions. Rutting and soil compaction lead to erosion and can be
avoided by choosing the proper logging equipment and by not log-
ging during wet weather. Leave buffer strips alongside bodies of
water and remove tree tops placed in streams during logging.
Revegetation. When planting vegetation to stabilize roads, skid
trails, and fire lines, prepare the seedbed by smoothing, discing, or
raking. Select a suitable seeding mixture for the location. Use
mulch after seeding on highly erosive soils, and protect the site from
grazing and unauthorized traffic.
Forestry
Best Management Practices
BMP's for forestry have been developed and
tested in experimental watersheds and have
been proven effective in protecting beneficial
uses of water. In order to make them work,
however, you must:
1. know what they are.
2. select the appropriate mix of practices
for your area.
3. include them in written logging or site
preparation contracts.
4. monitor the logger or contractor.
5. be prepared to make the operator
conform to the contract provisions.
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Where to Get
More Help
Wildfire control. When controlling wildfires, try to keep fire lines
off steep slopes and avoid drainages. Don't apply chemical retar-
dants directly to open water. Stabilize and revegetate firelines after
the suppression effort is complete.
Streamside management zones. Buffer strips are relatively undis-
turbed areas along drainages and streams that remove pollutants
from runoff and provide other fish and wildlife benefits. Roads, skid
trails, and log decks should not intrude into these areas, except at
necessary stream/road crossings. Do not broadcast pesticides or fer-
tilizer within these strips.
For specific information on Best Management Practices and their
applications, contact
State Forestry Agencies:
Alabama
Alabama Forestry Commission
513 Madison Avenue
Montgomery, AL 36130-0601
205-240-9304
Georgia
Georgia Forestry Commission
P.O. Box 819
Macon, CA 31298-4599
912-744-3237
Mississippi
Mississippi Forestry Commission
301 N. Lamar Street
Suite 300
Jackson, MS 39210
601-359-1386
South Carolina
South Carolina Commission of Forestry
P.O. Box 21707
5500 Broad River Road
Columbia, SC 29221
803-737-8800
Florida
Florida Division of Forestry
3125 Conner Blvd.
Tallahassee, FL 32399-1650
904-488-4274
Kentucky
Kentucky Division of Forestry
627 Comanche Trail
Frankfort, KY 40601 -1 798
502-564-4496
North Carolina
North Carolina Div. of Forest Resources
Dept. of Environment, Health and
Natural Resources
Box 2 7687
The Archdale Building, 10th Floor
512 N. Salisbury St.
Raleigh, NC 27611
919-733-2162
Tennessee
Tennessee Division of Forestry
Department of Conservation
701 Broadway - Custom House
Nashville, TN 37203
615-742-6615
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Federal Agencies:
U.S. Department of Agriculture
Forest Service
Cooperative Extension Service
Soil Conservation Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Bureau of Land Management
or
U.S. EPA, Region 4
345 Courtland Street, NE
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-2126
Publications:
Q Managing Forested Watersheds (PA 919)
(Forest Service, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture)
Q Managed Forests and Clean Water (Program Aid No. 1429,
Forest Service, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture)
Q Landowner's Guide to Best Management Practices for Forestry
Operations that Improve Water Quality (Publication No. 420-
140, Extension Division, VA Polytechnic Institute, Blacksburg,
VA 20461)
Q Seeding Logging Roads to Prevent Erosion (Soil Conservation
Service, Morgantown, West Virginia)
Q Logging Roads: Keeping Mud Out of the Streams (Soil Con-
servation Service, Morgantown, West Virginia)
Q Permanent Logging Roads for Better Woodlot Management
(Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Broomall, PA)
Q Forest Owners and their Logging Roads (West Virginia Forestry
Association, Ripley, WV 25271, 304-273-8164)
Q Forestry Best Management Practices Manual (State Forestry
Agency)
page 67
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Sinkholes and Abandoned Wells
Why You Should Care Sinkholes can pose a significant threat to water quality. They can be
a direct pathway for surface contaminants and sediments to pollute
the ground water that supplies your drinking water well. They can
also be a danger to people, livestock, and farm machinery.
Abandoned wells are also a problem. Years ago, wells were often
just abandoned when farmers built a new well. Sometimes, it is
hard to locate these old wells, but the effort is worth it. Abandoned
wells must be properly sealed to protect children and small animals
from falling into them, and to prevent surface water contamination
from entering the well pipe and flowing directly to an underground
aquifer.
a OU About sinkholes how they are formed. The name "sinkhole"
describes the hole created when the earth collapses into an under-
ground cave, taking everything on the surface with it. The under-
ground cave is formed over the years by ground water flowing
through, and dissolving limestone bedrock. If the cavern grows too
large to support the surface materials above it, the earth collapses
and a sinkhole is formed. Sometimes newly forming sinkholes are
hard to recognize, appearing only as a depression in a field. Care
should be taken when operating heavy equipment in places where
sinkholes are common.
About wells capping is not enough. Sometimes people think that
all they need to do with an old well is cap it and walk away. Not so.
The well must be sealed to keep water from travelling between the
various layers of soil and bedrock and perhaps mixing high-quality
water with inferior water.
Locating an abandoned well. You may have trouble
locating an abandoned well. Look for windmills
or decorative wishing wells that may serve as
-------
cover for old wells. Poke around an old shed or barn, even the
basement of your home, and you may find a ring of stones or bricks
covering an unsealed and unsafe well. You can also ask neighbors
or others familiar with the property if they remember any old wells,
examine old photos of the area, and consult fire insurance plan
drawings or geological surveys that might indicate the location of
wells. Ask well drillers who have been in business for a long time if
they have any record of wells on your property. Sometimes these
sources will yield clues to the existence of a buried or hidden well.
What You Can Do Fortunately, you can do a lot to protect water quality and ensure
the safety of your family and livestock by managing sinkholes
properly and by finding and sealing old abandoned wells.
Do's and Don'ts of sinkhole management.
Don't use a sinkhole as a convenient dumping place for house-
hold trash, empty chemical containers, dead animals, or other
potential pollutants. These materials can contaminate the
ground water that supplies your drinking water, even if your
sinkhole dump is a half mile or more away from your well.
Don't locate your septic tank or animal waste lagoon near a
sinkhole. Bacteria can eventually contaminate the ground
water, making the water unfit to drink.
Do create a grass barrier strip to filter sediments and agricultur-
al runoff before they reach the sinkhole.
Do divert heavy water flow away from the sinkhole by build-
ing berms or channels.
Do's and Don'ts of sealing a well.
Don't try to plug the well with tree stumps or brush.
Do contact your state environmental office. Plugging a well
may be too complicated to be a "do-it-yourself job.
Do remove any debris that has fallen into the well before you
seal it.
Do remove the well casing, if possible, before you seal the
well.
page 69
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Do plug the old well with cement or other material (such as
clay) that will not filter water easily. This will prevent migra-
tion of water between underground soil layers.
Do call your county or state health department or water man-
agement district for help.
Where to Get Contact your soil or water conservation district officer or your coun-
More Help ty extension agent for assistance in managing a sinkhole or locating
and sealing an abandoned well. Your state geological survey or
environmental office may also be able to help.
Two fact sheets published by the Alliance for a Clean Rural Environ-
ment (ACRE) provided valuable information for this section and are
recommended to the reader. They are:
Q The Importance of Sealing An Abandoned Well (ACRE fact
sheet #6, Alliance for a Clean Rural Environment, 1-800-545-
5410); and
Q Sinkhole Management Protects Groundwater (ACRE fact
sheet #18, Alliance for a Clean Rural Environment, 1 -800-
545-5410)
The following publications may also be of interest to the rural
homeowner:
Q Citizen's Guide to Ground-Water Protection (U.S. EPA pam-
phlet, April 1990)
Q Wellhead Protection Programs: Tools for Local Government
(U.S. EPA booklet, April 1989)
Q Progress in Ground-Water Protection and Restoration (U.S.
EPA booklet, February 1990)
They are available from the:
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
345 Courtland St., NE
Atlanta, Georgia 30365
404-347-3866
page 70
WU.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1992 - 638-181
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