A GARDENER'S GUIDE TO A
HEALTHIER ENVIRONMENT
HOW YOU CAN PREVENT POLLUTION
THROUGH
BENEFICIAL LANDSCAPING
U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY, REGION III 1/98
PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER
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How could aOWienvria^e Lad for tke enviromnent?
Wasted Water and Water Pollution - We waste millions
of gallons of water each year through inefficient watering
practices (running a hose for an hour can use up 225
gallons of water). We also plant many species that are not
adapted to our climatic conditions, often requiring
significant watering. Runoff from our gardens carries
fertilizers, pesticides, soil and other pollutants into our
streams, lakes and hays, degrading water quality and
harming aquatic life.
Air Pollution - Although small engine emissions have
heen reduced as a result of recent clean-air regulations,
landscape equipment with two-cycle gasoline-powered
engines is still a significant contributor to air pollution.
These hydrocarbon emissions create ozone, which in turn is
very harmful to humans, wildlife and vegetation. Gas-
powered string trimmers and blowers are among the most
polluting pieces of equipment.
Americans spend an estimated yearly $950 million on
fertilizers and around SI J billion on pesticides for
landscape uses.
In 1990 approximately 70 million pounds of pesticides
wen used in gardens around the Ul
Around 3,000 plant species in the 111 today are
introduced (non-native) - that's about 16% of the total
flora. The bidzu vine, infamous now in the Southeast
111, is estimated to cover more than 7 million acres.
and it's still spreading, choking out native plants.
A lawnmower pollutes as much in one hour at does
driving an automobile for 350 miles.
In the 111 20 million acres are planted in residential
lawns - equal to 3 times the sin of Maryland. ,
Annually, 30- 60 % (depending on city) of urban fresh
water is used for watering lawns.
In the 111 each year 60- 70,000 severe accidents result
from lawnmowers.
Pesticides - Although less than 10% of all insects are
harmful to plants, the average gardener uses pesticides at a
rate per acre of 10 times that of a fanner. Pesticides are often applied at inappropriate times, such
as when insects are not vulnerable, and sprayed indiscriminately over large areas. While in some
situations pesticides are unavoidable, overuse and inappropriate use often kill beneficial insects and
other wildlife. Pesticides have the potential to cause serious human health problems, as well, when
not handled properly or applied with caution.
Solid Waste - Organic yard waste is a major contributor to the landfill crisis in America. It
accounts for roughly 20% of municipal solid waste collected each year; half of this is grass clippings.
Noise Pollution - Noise pollution from landscape equipment has compromised the serenity of our
neighborhoods and damages hearing in individuals.
Loss of Diversity - Plants that we innocently introduce to our gardens can seriously impact nearby
natural habitats. Plants like Norway maple, Japanese honeysuckle, kudzu, purple loosestrife and
vetch either grow or self-propagate at such a rate that they outcompete native vegetation,
mlting in reduced habitat values and loss of biodiversity.
crown
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But gardening zeedi&’t be bad for the environment .
TRADITIONAL LANDSCAPING, where we plant vast lawns dotted with trees and formal
hedges, often 0 f exotic origins, is at the root 0 f the problem. Manicured lawns and formal
arrangements require a great amount 0 f care, which often translates to from mechanical
equipment and heavy use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Many 0 f us strive to grow perfect
examples 0 f relatively few plant species, most 0 f which are non-natives and often poorly adapted to
our climatic and soil conditions. Fortunately, there are alternatives that are iess polluting and at the
same time attractive, cheaper and easier to maintain.
BENEFICIAL LANDSCAPING (or natural landscaping) is one of the best alternatives. It calls
• for a more natural or informal design using a greater variety of plant species, most of hi h
h 0 ld be native to your area. By switching to a less formal design, plants can assume their
natural shape and size and you will be relieved of the frequent need to trim and prune. Byusing a
greater variety 0 f plants you will also reduce the potential for major disease and pest problems and
any damage that might occur will be less noticeable.
Reducing the size 0 f the lawn is another major component 0 f beneficial landscaping.
Lawns, by their very nature, are time and resource intensive, so reduce their coverage to the minimum.
necessary; in many cases it might even be prudent to eliminate turf entirely. Replacement plants can
include a variety of trees, shrubs, grasses and groundcovers. Any lawn remaining can be made more
environmentally friendly b changing maintenance practices.
Reduce the use of chemical pesticides anti fertilizers through Integrated Pest
Management (1PM) and other means. 1PM is a common sense approach that utilizes the most
economical and least toxic practices to manage pest damage.
Avoid and remove invasive exotic plants; These are plants
not native to your region that spread rapidly and outconipete more
beneficial native plants, thus reducing die diversity of plants and
animals in our natural areas.
- .
Use plants to reduce your home heating and cooling
needs. By planting deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves in winter) on the 50 th and west sides
of your home, air-conditioning b U 5 can be reduced significantly. Likewise, evergreen trees planted
to block winter winds can help to reduce heating b ll 5 .
Other beneficial landscaping practices related to the above include, reducing the use of
power landscape equipment, practicing soil anti water conservation, composting yard waste,
creating wildlife habitat, and, perhaps most important 0 f all, protecting existing natural areas.
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GETrING STARTED
A BALANCED LANDSCAPE, EVER’rrHING IS IN CHECK, INCLUDING DISEASES AND PESTS. ALL GREEN
PLANTS EM OXYGEN, WHICH HUMANS AND ANIMALS NEED TO BREATHE. THE MORE BIOMASS (VOLUME
OF VEGETATiON), THE MORE OXYGEN PRODUCED. THUS, A RICHLY LUXURIANT GARDEN, ESPECIALLY
A WOODLAND, HAS MUCH. BE1TER AIR QUALITY THAN A LAWN. WHEN WE TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THIN E
HARMFUL IMPACTS FROM MOWERS- AND BLOWERS,’ AND FROM RUNOFF OF FERTiLIZERS AND
PESTiCIDES, LAWNS CAN EVEN BE HARMFUL TO.THE ENVIRONMENT. THE FOLLOWING PROVIDES SOME
TiPS FOR GETTiNG STARTED ON YOUR OWN NATURAL GARDEN.
The most important first step in
designing or redesigning a garden is doing a
thorough site analysis. First, determine the
size and shape of the area in hi h you will be
working. Then, inventory existing vegetation
and any other significant site characteristics
(wetlands, rock formations, etc.). Removal of
any invasive plant species will be more easily
accomplished before new plantings are added.
The next step is to analyze
your soil. Understanding the soil
type, texture (moisture holding
capacity), pH level (degree of
acidity or alkalinity), and organic
content will help you later in
making your plant selections.
Acid soil can be made less so by
adding lime or gypsum, and the
organic content 0 f your soil can be
improved with the addition 0 f leaf
mold, manure, bark, or compost,
however, it is best to choose plants
that thrive in conditions that exist
on your property rather than to try
to modify the environment to meet
the needs 0 f specific plants.
Climatic conditions are
also important to understand.
Knowing from what direction the prevailing
winds on your property come at what time 0 f
the year can, for example, help you to
determine where. you might wish to plant
evergreens as wind-breaks. Deciduous trees
can reduce heating and cooling energy needs
upto 30% b sbadingthe south and west sides
0 f buildings in summer,.. and b allowing
sunlight to warm buildings in the winter.
Trees should also be used to shade paved areas
and th 5 reduce summer heat buildup that can
be stressful for other plantings.
Another potential for pollution
prevention is found in land form. Runoff
rates from a site can be reduced through subtly
manipulating your site’s topography. ‘By
creating shallow depressions, water will
have more time to percolate into the soil,
rather than running off the site into storm
drains.’ Larger water features can be
created, as well, and provide for increased
biodiversity. In addition to being a visual
‘focal point, ponds and wetlands can ‘serve
as stormwater retention basins. For child
safety and maximum wetland wildlife value,
the pond periphery should be gently sloping
(the shallow water is ideal ‘for many
wetland plants) and the center should be 3-
4 feet deep to provide a safe haven for fish
and amphibians from cats, raccoons, and
winter freezing. Fish, frogs, and snails will
help keep insect populations under control
and reduce buildup 0 f algae. Because 0 f
the value of our fast-disappearing wetlands,
excavation and filling activities should be kept
to higher, previously-disturbed ground.
You, can begin your plant selection
process b first understanding what type 0 f
plant communities might have naturally,
occurred on your site according to the
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type, amount of shade and degree 0 f wetness.
Native species 5 h 0 1d be considered first, as
they have been proven hardy to the area.
Research available plants through reputable
nurseries, garden clubs, agricultural extension
services, botanic gardens and libraries. Keep
in mind that many nurseries, particularly the
large national and regional chains, sell a wide
variety 0 f plant material, some 0 f which may
not be hardy or native to your area. Exotic
plants, uniess carefully selected, can be high in
maintenance, and may even spread out
control in the landscape. By selecting the
proper plants, you are not only on your way to
having a healthier garden, b t you will be
preventing pollution by conserving water and
not having to prune, fertilize, nor apply
pesticides as frequently (if at all)! For starters,
see the list 0 f selected, desirable native plants
as well as invasive plants to be avoided towards
the end 0 f thi 5 guide.
As a consumer, you can make a
difference in the availability of native plants
for home gardens. If enough customers
request native plant species, nurseries will
begin to 6 t 0 k them. Be aware, however, 0 f
where the native plants originate. Wildflower
seed collected in one region 0 f the country,
while it might belong to the same species 0 f a
plant found in your area, has adapted to
different climatic conditions and is not really
the same as locally-found seed. Also, make
sure that the plants you obtain have been
grown in nurseries and not collected in the
wild - unless you know they have been salvaged
from an area slated for development.
Plant a variety 0 f species rather than
one (a monoculture) or a few. Monocultures,
in addition to being fairly sterile environments,
are very susceptible to infestations 0 f harmful
insects and rapid spread 0 f disease. Weather
stress can also be very damaging to this type of
garden.
Be sure to consider the ultimate size
and shape 0 f plants before selecting them and
check to ensure you have appropriate space to
accommodate their future growth. You ll want
to avoid the need for regular pruning or
removal 5 h 0 uld they later b1 0 k windows or
grow into utility lines.
LAWNS AND ALTERNATIVES
-REDucE LAwN AREAS TO A M!NIMUM
-CHANGE LAWN M JNTENANGE PI c ncEs
Out 0 f the English tradition of
pastoral landscapes grew the American
tradition 0 f the front lawn. For many, it’s an
essential component 0 f the American dream,
and lends a sense 0 f order and beauty to the
home landscape. In some communities,
residents face pressure to keep their yards in
highly manicured and mowed grass. If you
feel having a lawn is necessary (and in most
cases it’s not), there are better alternatives to
keeping it healthy without creating a
significant amount 0 f pollution.
To save yourself time and energy and naturally
fertilize your lawn, invest in a MULCHING MOWER.
These machines finely chop lawn trimmings and
instead of blowing them out a discharge chute like
tegular mowers, the trimmings are blown down into
the lawn where they are are left to decompose and
act as fertilizer. The need to rake, bag and dispose
of clippings is thus eliminated, although some
mulching mowers provide features that capture
clippings, in case you want to add them to your
compost pile. REEL-TYPE PUSH MOWERS are the
better choice for small lawns.
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Ifl tile summer,’ set your lawnmower
cutting height to 2.5 - 3 inches for fescues
and ‘ryegrass to reduce the stress that heat ‘and
sun place on the lawn;
this will reduce the _____________
amount of watering and
weeding required, too.
‘In general, don’t ‘cut
more than one-third ‘of
the grass blade, and
never more than one
total at one
mowing. The short clippings, when left on
your lawn, will decompose and return to the
as natural fertilizer. This will help your,
lawn’s ability to retain moisture and reduce
erosion, as well as, reduce the amount 0 f grass
clippings going to landfills. Additional
fertilizing should be limited to no more than
one fall application 0 f a slow-release, water
insoluble nitrogen (WIN) fertilizer, such as
sulfur-coated urea or other natural organic
fertilizers. Keep l’awnmower engines properly
tuned so that fuel ‘is burned more efficiently.
Have mower blades sharpened yearly; dull
blades damage the grass, makii g it more
vulnerable to summer stress and fui igal.
diseases. Finally, 0 5 ult with your county’s
extension agent for lawn care tips specific to
your area. When possible,
however, there are alternatives
to the traditional lawn that can
be implemented to provide
beautiful and, healthy
landscapes and still be
attractive’ in an urban area.
One way is through the use
ground covers. A variety 0 f
texture and color options exist,
and many do well in shaded or
partially shaded areas. They
can provide flowers and fall
color, and require far less maintenance than
the average lawn.
By extending planting beds you can
further reduce lawn area. Native shrubs
provide a natural hedge,
_________________ a backdrop for perennial
beds, and habitat for
wildlife.
In drier areas,
consider, installing
native grasses and
_____________ wildflowers for a
landscape that attracts
birds, beneficial insects, •and provides a
changing landscape with each new season. In
wetter areas, native wetland plants will thrive
where grass and other plants will struggle.
Where local zoning ordinances permit it,
collect or redirect runoff from roofs and paved
surfaces; the’water can be used for gardening
during droughts or to feed a wetland or bog
garden.
PLANTING FOR WILDLIFE
-PROVIDE SOURCES 0F SHELTER, WATER AND
FOOD.
As development continues to consume
remaining open space throughout the United
States, critical wildlife habitat is
lost. Some 0 f that habitat can be
replaced through thoughtful
planning and planting. In
addition to using native trees,
shrubs and ground covers that
provide shelter and nesting sties,
artificial sites can be added to
your garden inthe form 0 f bird or
bat boxes (bats eat mosquitos!),
and bird baths or other small
water elements.
To maximize the number
and variety 0 f animals you attract to your
For patient gardeners, áne way.of getting rid of unwanted
lawn is to smother it. Bl&k or dear plastic, or newspapers.
can be laid ovérthé lawn area during hot weather and will
kill weed seeds up to six inches deep. This method can
take up to’ six months to be fUIF effective.
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garden, use a variety 0 f plant species, both
evergreen and deciduous, and plant them in
clusters, in a voodiland, dori t neglect the
unclerstoxy layer - it provides habitat for many
small mammals, insects and amphibians.
Rocks and fallen branches, too, are valuable
for wildlife and can be attractively used in the
landscape.
Meadows are great habitat types for
attracting songbirds, as veil as butterflies and
bees, h 0 will help you with your gardening b
pollinating various plants.
Ponds, marshes, or other water
features have great wildlife-attracting potential.
You might find, too, that you have a naturally
occurring water feature in your yard, 5 h as a
buried or culverted stream, that can be
restored. Food for wildlife can be provided by
nut-, cone-, and berry-forming trees and.
shrubs, as well as, flowers. Whatever type 0 f
habitat your area is best suited for, make sure
to plant species that bloom or fruit at a variety
of times throughout the year. There are many
b 0 ok 5 available that can guide you in planting
to attract particular species and provide
ornamental interest.
MAI NTENANCE
A NATIONAL GARDENING SURVEY DONE IN l993 FOUND THAT 56% OF HOUSEHOLDS IN THE U.S.
PURCHASED SOME KIND OF OUTDOOR FERTIUZER, PESTiCIDE OR OTHER CHEMICAL. THIs FIGURE MAY
REPRESENT A SIGNIFICANT IMPACT ON THE OUALITY OF OUR NATURAL SYSTEMS. PARTICULARLY WATER.
IF YOURE HAPPY WITH YOUR (IST1NO GARDEN AND NOT READY TO MAKE MAJOR CHANGES TO IT, YOU
CAN STILL MAKE SIGNIFICANT REDUCTIONS IN POLLUTION BY ALTERING YOUR MAJNTENANCE PRACTICES.
COMPOST / CLIPPINGS
Rather than discarding plant materials
acter cleaning up and pruning, create a
compost pile or enlarge your existing one.
Excess clippings, leaves and pruned branches
make excellent compost ingredients that can
later be applied as a additive or mulch for
vegetable and flower gardens. (Although, in a
natural garden, it’s beneficial to allow
most branches and leaves to remain where
they’ll decay and provide habitat and
nutrients.) For lawns, use a composting
mover to eliminate the need to dispose of
excess grass clippings and provide a natural
source of nutrients, reducing or eliminating
fertilizer needs.
Chipped bark and branches can make
an excellent natural path through your
Building a Compost Pile
On a piece of exposed, level ground begin layering different types
of compost materials. Start with something coarse and dry, like
brush. The next layer should be something green and wet, such as
grass clippings. Finally, add a layer of soil. Continue to layer in this
fashion, using food scraps for your “wet’ layer. (The larger your
pile ii to begin with, the snore heat it will generate and the faster
matenal will decompose.) Avoid meats and fish, these decompose
slowly and attract pests. Any other kinds of fruit, vegetable or
garden waste will make great compost, though, and, so long as you
have a healthy nix of “drys’ and “wets’, your pile won’t begin to
smell.
Occasionally turning your pile with a pitchfork will speed up the
process, and eliminate any fruit fly problems that might arise. Your
compost is ready when none of your original ingredients is
recognizable, and you have a nice, dark, loamy soil instead. This can
take anywhere from a few months to a year or mere, depending upon
methods used and your climate. Generally, though, leaves added to
the compost pile in the fall are ready to use as a soil additive the
following summer.
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garden, and can be used, along with compost,
aé mulch for planting beds and cover around.
trees and shrubs. Mulches reduce weeds and
soil erosion, conserve water and moderate soil
temperature.
TooL.s / EQUIPMENT
Use hand tools whenever, possible to
tend your garden. Power tools are noisy and
their energy demands and emission levels are
excessive. Electric to l are quieter, but
electricity generation (particularly the mining
and burning 0 f coal) causes significant air and
water pollution. Push mowers, brooms, and
hand rakes are not only non-polluting, b t
they provide exercise to the user and are less
dangerous. When power equipment proves
necessary, take extra precautions to avoid fuel
spills (use leakiess nozzles), maintain
equipment properly (engines well-tuned and
blades sharpened), use protective clothing, and
show consideration regarding the noise
generated. When shopping, equipment
that is the quietest, cleanest-burning and most
fuel efficient. During periods of impaired air
quality, refrain from using power equipment,
particularly those with gasoline engines.
Drip irrigation is one of the most
efficient forms 0 f watering. It is especially
valuable on slopes where runoff and risk 0 f
erosion are high. When watering, apply the
necessary amount of water (normally, about 1”
per week, taking into account rainfall, is
ample) and at
the appropriate
time. Rain
gauges and il L
moisture probes
can help you
judge the need.
Early morning
applications are
best followed b
evening, as there’ll be less water wasted
through evaporation. Also, one deep watering
is preferable to numerous light waterings which
only wet the s ace and encourage shallow,
vulnerable root growth. Timers, underground
sprinklers and other devices that control
application rates and amounts are also
recommended. Finallyp rainwater can be
collected from roofs and other surfaces, as can
gray water from showers and sinks; for
watering lawns and gardens.
PESTICIDES’
WATERING
Conserving water in the garden starts’
with selecting appropriate plants for your
climate, soil, and light conditions. Y 0 ’ll
want to cluster plants ‘with similar moisture
requirements and apply mulch or, in the truly
natural garden, allow leaves and other organics
to naturally decompose. Watering 8 h 0 uld then
oniy be necessary after planting and during
severe droughts.
Using a variety of native plants 6 h 0 ld
rediice the damage from pests in the garden,
but problems will sometimes arise. Before
pulling out the pesticides, research your
problems to make certain you know the causes
and alternative means 0 f treatment. Help can
be obtained from reference b 00 k 5 , nurseries,
garden clubs, agricultural extension agents,
and br botanic gardens. Timing 0 f corrective
measures can be critical, so examine the life
cycles 0 f harmful insects so that you can take
action when tliejre most vulnerable.
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Limit your use 0 f chemical pesticides.
First, consider integrated pest management
(1PM) practices. In a balanced, natural
garden, most diseases and harmful insects are
kept in check and rarely pose a serious
problem. Encourage natural pest predators to
inhabit your garden; these include birds,
ladybugs, lacewings, toads, and praying
mantises. A variety of flowering plants is
essential to attracting
many beneficial
insects such as
butterflies and bees.
Remove pest eggs,
larvae, galls, and
cocoons b hand.
Good sanitation in
the fall means fewer
pests in the spring.
Companion planting
is a term given to the
use 0 f some plants to
benefit (or protect)
others, usually b
serving as an insect
repellent. When you determine that pesticide
us is absolutely necessary, filSt try the least
toxic alternatives 5 h as biological agents,
horticultural superior oil sprays, insecticidal
soaps and soap solutions (a simple home mix
combining 2.5T liquid soap with 2.5T
cooking and 1 gallon water can be
effective). These soaps are not toxic to
humans, b t may harm beneficial insects in
the garden so apply sparingly. Also, some
plants are sensitive to the soaps, so test the
application before using it widely. Powdered
boric acid, dehydrating dusts (diatomaceous
earth and silica gel) and insect growth
regulators, which kill the insects or interrupt
their reproductive cycles, are some other
alternatives. Badflus thuringiensis, known also
as B.t., is a bacterium that attacks specific
insect groups, depending on hi h strain is
chosen. It is safe for humans, but make sure
you purchase the right strain for the pest you
are trying to eliminate from your garden. For
more severe infestations, use pyrethrin -l ased
insecticides. For all pesticides, follow
directions carefully, use adequate protective
gear and apply only away from water bodies,
when Wi d 5 are calm and rain not forecasted.
Buy pesticides only
in the smallest quantity
necessary and store
carefully in airtight, labeled
containers in a secure area,
out of the reach of children.
Use proper gear and
extreme caution when
mixing and applying.
Don’t wash clown spills, but
rather blot with absorbent
material and dispose of in a
strong plastic bag. Spilled
or excess material 5 hould
____________ be disposed of at hazardous
waste drop-off locations, f
available, instead of in household trash or
down drains or sewers. Finally,
remember that even when used sparingly and
cautiously, pesticides can and d 0 get into
nature’s food chain and while they may not be
harmful to your plants, they may harm wildlife
and impair your health. Learn to accept
minor damage from disease and insects as
being part 0 f the natural cycle.
FERnLIZER
Nitrogen and phosphorus from
fertilizer, while they occur naturally in soil,
can be detrimental in excessive amounts.
When used excessively on lawns, gardens and
agricultural crops, they run 0 ff or eventually
Glyphosate is the active ingredient in some herbicides, and is
considered the safest” by many conservationists. It does not
leave a harmM residue on surf aces or enter groundwater (it
adheres to soil particles), and is only toxic to wildlife in
quantrnesprobablytcolargetoingest Forthemostcontrol
application, buy the concentrated form and dilute it yourself.
It can be applied to the cut stumps of troublesome trees or
shrubs, or sprayed on the leaves of herbaceous plants.
Glyphosate does not discriminate but kills the leaves of every
type ofvegetation. when applying, be sure you only hit your
targeted species. For more about glyphosate and its specific
application, see Sara Stein’s Planting Noah’s Garden .
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leach from the soil and end up in water bodies;
there they stimulate the growth 0 f algae bi h
Some common landscape pests and the plants that will
serve as natural repellents :
fertilizer, consider slow release products (for
example, fish emulsion) as they minimize
excess nitrogen runoff. Make sure you fertilize
at appropriate times for your plants. For
example, cool weather grasses need only be
fertilized once a year, in the fall. And don t
exceed recommended application rates.
P nt Repellents
M, rr, I APJ flI I
Mint, tansy, pennyroyal
Mint, garlic, chives, coriander,
anise
Potato, onion, turnip
Common oleander
Green beans, coriander,
nasturtium
Radish, tansy
Garlic, onion, mint
Mint, sage, rosemary, hyssop
Garlic, larkspur, tansy, rue,
geranium
Geranium, petunia
Potato, onion, garlic, radish,
petunia, marigold
Onion
French marigolds
Prostrate rosemary, wormwood
Onion, garlic, cloves, chives
Radish, marigolds, tansy,
Nasturtium
Radish
Marigolds
Marigolds, sage, borage
Marigolds, nasturtium
Haxdscaping (decks, patios, walkways,
etc.) Are often an important part 0 f garden or
yard design. While hard surfaces d 0 increase
stormwater runoff, this can be mitigated b
using semi-pervious surfaces 5 ch as wood,
brick-on-sand, or gravel. In place of wood
decks, consider plastic lumber hi h is rot
resistant and never needs staining. For a path
with a natural or “woodsy” feel, use mulch.
Where you d 0 use paving, light colored
surfaces are preferable to dark ones,
collectively, contribute to urban “heat islands.”
This additional heat also places stress on
nearby plants.
IN CONCLUSION...
The cumulative enviromnental impacts
0 f each 0 f our gardening practices is quite
significant. Please do your part to be more
environmentally friendly, then go a step
further and encourage your friends and
neighbors to do the same. It will take all 0 f us
working together to make this a cleaner,
healthier environment.
PLEASE PRACTICE POLLUTION
PREVENTION BY SHARING THIS
BROCHURE WITH OTHERS WHEN YOU
ARE FINISHED WITH IT.
Ant
Aphids
Bean leaf beetle
Codling moth
Colorado potato bug
Cucumber beetle
Flea beetle
Cabbage worm
Japanese beetle
Leaf hopper
Mexican bean beetle
Mice
Root knot nematodes
Slugs
Spider mites
Squash bug
Stink bug
Thrips
Tomato hornworm
Whitefly
in turn depletes oxygen necessary for the
sustenance 0 f fi 5 h, crabs, shellfish ancl other
organisms. Fertilizer should be kept 0 ff paved
areas, so it doesn’t wash directly into storm
drains and into water sources. When buying
THANK You
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SOME RECOMMENDED PLANTS FOR THE MIDDLE ATLAN11C STATES
Some native trees: Some native perennials for shady areas:
Serviceberty Amelanchier canadensis Goat’s beard Aruncus diolcus
River birch Betula nigra New England aster Aster novae-angliae
Hombeam Carpinus carohn,ana Bleeding heart Dicenira exima
Redbud Cercis canadensis Alumroot Heuchera americana
Fringe-tree Chionanthus wrgirncus Great lobelia Lobelia siphililica
Flowering dogwood Cornusfiorida Virginia bluebells Mertensia vi rginica
American beech Fagus grand4fol la Woodland phlox Phlox divancata
White ash Fraxinus americana Solomon’s seal Polygonatum b /lorum
Red cedar Juniperus wrginiana Bowman’s root Porteranihus :rifoliiuus
Sweetgum Liquidambar slyraciflua Bloodroot Sanguinaria canadensis
Tulip-tree Liriodendron iulip fera Wood poppy Stylopho rum diphyllum
Sweet-bay magnolia Magnolia wrgsniwro FoamfioWer Trarella cordifolsa.
Black gum, tupelo Nyssa sylvalica Labrador violet Viola labradorica
Sycamore Platanus occidental/s
Willow oak Quercus phellos Perennials for sunny areas:
Native shrubs: Butterfly weed Asclepfas tube rosa
Wild white indigo Bapnsia aTha
Chokeberry Aronia arbunfolia Moonbeam coreopsis Coreopsis verucillata
Buttonbush Cephalanthus occidentolis Joe Pye weed Eupatorium purpureum
Sweet pepperbush Clethra aIn fo1ia ‘ Wild geranium Geranium maculatum
Gray dogwood Corn us racemosa Swamp sunflower Hehanthus giganreus
Witch-hazel Mamamelis virginiana Bee-balm Monarda didyma
Winterberry hex verncillaza Blazing star Liatns spicata
Virginia swecispire Irea wrg:nica Cardinal flower Lobelia cardinalis
Mountain laurel Kalmia latifolsa Black-eyed Susan Rudbeckia hirta
Bayberry Myrica pensylvanica Coneflower Rudbeckro triloba
Arrowwood Viburnum dentatum Goldenrods Solidago spp.
Black-haw viburnum Viburnum prunzfolu4m
Ornamental grasses:
Groundcovers:
River oats Chasmanthiurn lanfolsum
Wild ginger Asarum canadense Switch grass Panicum virgatum
Lady fern - Athyriumfihx-femina Indian grass Sorghastrurn nutans
Violet wood-sorrel Oxalzs wolacea Cord grass Spartinapecrinata
Creeping phlox Phlox stolonsfero
Ne ’i York fern Thelypteris noveboracensis
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SOME NON-NATIVE, INVASIVE PLANTS THAT HAVE BEEN CAUSING
PROBLEMS IN THE EAST* (CONSIDER AVOIDING ThEM)
Amur maple Acer ginnala
Norway maple Acer platmoides
Tree of heaven Ailanthus altissima
Japanese barberry Berberis thunbergii
Paper mulberry Broussonetia papynfera
Butterfly bush Buddleia davidli
Oriental or Asiatic bittersweet Celastis orbiculatus
Russian / Autumn olive Elaeagnus anguslifolia and E. umbellata
Burning bush Eunnymous alatus
Wintercreeper Euonymousfortunei
Japanese knotwood Fallopia japonica
English ivy Hedera helix
J a panese honeysuckle Lonicera japonica
Purple loosestrife Lythrum salicaria
White mulberry Morus alba
Princess tree Paulownia tomentasa
Reed canary grass Phalaris arundinacea
Common reed Phragmites australis
Bamboo Phylostachys aubea
Kudzu Pueraria lobata
White poplar Populus aTha
Common/Tall hedge buckthom Rhamnus cathartica and R.frangula
Black locust (NATIVE!) Robinia pseudoacacia
Muhiflora rose Rosa multfflora
Japanese spirea Spiraea japonica
Japanese yew Taxus cuspidata
Siberian elm Ulmus pumila
Periwinkle Vinca major and V. minor
Wisteria Wisteria sinensis
* Check with The Nature Conservancy, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, your state
heritage agency, and others for additional invasive plants of concern in your area.
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