Environmental LANDSCAPING IN THE GULF OF MEXICO REGION ------- Acknowledgment Appreciation is extended to all Gulf of Mexico partners who gave of their time, energy, and expertise in creating this pamphlet. This document has been funded by the United States Environmental Protection Agency, Gulf of Mexico Program, under Cooperative Agreement Number EPA/NASA NAS13-564 DO #56 awarded to the Cooperative Extension Service of Mississippi State University. The contents of this document do not necessarily represent the views and policies of the Environmental Protection Agency, nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute an endorsement or recommendation. Funded by: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Gulf of Mexico Program Published by: Mississippi Cooperative Extension Service Mississippi State University Gulf of Mexico Program &EPA ------- LIBRARY US EPA Region 4 Atlanta Federal Center 100 Alabama St., SW Atlanta, GA 30303-3104 Contents 2 Introduction 5 Planting and Maintaining Vegetation 7 Tips for Water Quality Protection 10 Landscaping With Native Plants 13 Resources 14 Agencies and Organizations To Contact ------- Introduction *$*»> Habitats and ecosystems along the Gulf of Mexico coast include such diverse areas as freshwater swamps, mangrove forests, sea grass beds, and salt marshes. About half of the coastal wetlands in the conterminous United States are lo- cated along the Gulf. These habitats and breeding grounds shelter and feed thousands of species of coastal and ma- rine wildlife. The coastal wetlands of the Gulf provide habitat for 4 to 7 million migratory waterfowl every winter. Many rare and endangered species of wildlife, including sea turtles and manatees, are found in the Gulf. Natural and man-made causes can adversely affect the environmental qual- ity of the Gulf. Formerly pristine habi- tats and many species of marine and coastal life have been adversely af- fected by an increase in human ac- tivities. Today, one-sixth of the U.S. population lives in the five states bordering the Gulf. Of these 42 million people, 15 million live in coastal counties. By the year 2010, coastal population densities in the Gulf are projected to increase to an ------- (over 1,000 per shoreline mile). These new coastal resi- dents will further strain Gulf resources as they demand housing, jobs, fresh water, and the conveniences of modern life. Water from two-thirds of the United States drains into the Gulf of Mexico, and one-quarter of the runoff from all this land actually makes its way into the Gulf. Excessive levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and other nutrients come from city sewage treatment plants, industrial operations, septic tanks, lawns, gardens, and agricultural activities. An overdose of nitrogen and phosphorus can lead to algal blooms that deplete the water's dissolved oxygen, making it unsuitable for other forms of life. A 3,600-square-mile oxygen-deficient "dead zone" located off the coasts of Texas and Louisiana contributes to a dramatic reduction in species diversity and abundance in the region. This area is in the heart of one of the nation's richest and most extensive fishing grounds. Erosion and surface runoff cause sedi- ments and contaminants to enter Gulf wa- ters directly by washing into tributaries and indirectly by being carried through storm drains and water-treatment facili- ties. Erosion also causes the loss of valu- able wildlife habitat, and, in some cases, may actually threaten building structures located on shore- lines. There are simple steps you can take to reduce erosion and surface runoff from your property. Recent toxic release inventory data showed that the Gulf States of Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Texas were 4 of the top 10 states in the country in total surface water discharge of toxic chemicals. Some 460 municipali- ties and large industries pipe discharges directly into the Gulf. Farmers spread more than 21 million pounds of By the year 2010, coastal population densities in the Gulf are projected to increase to an average of227people per square mile...over 1,000 people per shoreline mile. ------- chemical fertilizers and pesticides on croplands in the Mississippi River region each year. Many suburban homeowners use 5 to 10 pounds of pesticides per acre. That's about 10 times more chemicals per acre than farmers use! Lawn and garden chemicals are beneficial when cor- rectly used, but when nutrients such as fertilizers enter waterways, they can cause algal blooms that lead to oxygen depletion and have a negative impact on other forms of life. Many fish kills can be traced to oxygen depletion caused by an overabundance of nutrients in the water. Many herbi- cides and pesticides can kill nontargeted species if they enter surface waters directly. You should always strive to reduce the amount of these toxic substances released into the environment. Nonpoint-source pollution is increasingly recognized as a significant factor in coastal water degradation. Nonpoint-source pollution includes lawn and garden pesticides and fertilizers, street or parking lot runoff, pet waste, and sep- tic tank drainage. In urban areas, storm water and combined sewer overflow are linked to major coastal problems, and in rural areas, runoff from agricultural ac- tivities adds to coastal pollution. These sources are attributable to people con- ducting their everyday activities and are examples of just a couple of ways your actions can have a large impact on the quality and future of the Gulf. The first step is to recognize the connection between your way of life and the health of the Gulf. Everyone is responsible for the future of the Gulf, so get involved and start making a difference. As a homeowner or land developer involved in landscaping projects, there are many things you can do to save on water use, prevent pollution from entering Gulf waterways, and, best of all, save time and money! JYLany suburban homeowners use 5 to 10 pounds of pesticide per acre. That's about 10 times more chemicals per ------- Planting and Maintaining etation Have Your Soil Tested A soil analysis assesses pH level and nutri- ent availability. This information helps deter- mine the appropriate type and quantity of fertilizer and lime to apply, saving money and preventing waste and water contamination by misapplication. Always fill out the soil test information sheet as completely as possible. Lab recommendations are based, in part, on information such as soil texture, last lime application, and what you intend to grow in that area. Soil test kits and forms are available from your local Coopera- tive Extension Service office. Know Your Plants Make sure proposed planting sites meet the plant's requirements for soil, sun, and water. Proper siting helps reduce maintenance and irrigation needs and produces healthier plants. The most common error in landscape design is improper siting of species with regard to light conditions. Select plants that will fit available space when they have matured. A healthy tree or shrub with room to grow will be better able to withstand drought stress and require less pesticide. Site Plants Properly Plant and maintain trees, shrubs, perennial grasses, or legumes along steep slopes, drainage channels or ditches, and around bodies of water. These are "buffer strips" that trap surface water and sediments. Choose plants that are pest resistant and don't require much fertilization. Native plants generally survive best. Table 1 is a list of suggested native plant species suitable for use in the Gulf of Mexico region. The proper width of buffer strips of vegetation between the land being used and the water body depends on the type of soil, the degree of slope, and the type of vegetative cover. Consult a landscape architect or your ------- local Extension agent. Forested areas are more effective than grasslands. A one-acre buffer of trees 50 feet wide will protect almost 900 feet of a waterway by reducing soil erosion caused by rainfall impact and allowing more water to filter through the soil. Proper siting of plants on your property in relation to building structures can create an energy-efficient home landscape that will save on heating and cooling costs. Plant deciduous trees along the east, south, and west sides of your home to provide shading for the walls and roof in the summer and to allow the sun to warm the house in winter. The southwest corner of the house is the most critical area to cool. Plant evergreen shrubs close together to form a wind barrier on the northwest side of your home to slow the chilling winds of winter. Windbreaks and fences can also be used as wind scoops to channel cooling summer breezes into desired areas. Fences have two advantages over plant- ing windbreaks: (1) they require less ground space; and (2) they provide immediate protection. Do not use a solid fence. Solid surfaces do not stop the wind — they simply make it more vicious. Use a slat fence with spaces between each vertical board. Pruning is Necessary Some pruning may be necessary the first few years after planting trees or shrubs in order to develop a sound and attractive branching habit. Most trees should be pruned to develop a single leader and to reduce branches with ex- tremely narrow crotch angles, since these are weak points and may break when the tree matures. At planting time, remove broken, crossing, and diseased branches, but avoid unnecessary pruning at transplanting because it tends to retard plant growth and inhibit survival. Hand prune to remove dying or severely damaged branches, which can be entry points for insects or diseases. Avoid shearing because it can result in excessive branching and dead wood. Prune in late winter or early spring to allow wounds to heal quickly. However, to get the best flowering from plants that bloom in the early spring, prune soon after the flowers die. ------- Tips for Water Quality Protection Use Water Wisely Minimize hard surfaces such as paved areas and maximize the absorption capacity of your ground. Protect soil by planting ground covers, grasses, shrubs, and trees by adding mulch. Mulching allows water to sink into the soil where it can be naturally filtered to remove sediments and contaminants. Use terraces to reduce water runoff velocity on long or steep slopes. Grade your land with a series of gentle swales (or low areas) and berms (elevated areas) to drain water away from the house, yet allow water to sink into the soil. This system will allow particles to settle or filter out as the water percolates into the soil. Keep heavy equipment off exposed soil during the rainy season to reduce erosion and allow for vegetative growth. Use gravel cover for unpaved parking areas. Direct sprinkler heads away from paved surfaces, espe- cially if drainage is directly into the street or drainage ditch. Irrigate or water lawns in the evening or early morning, but never on windy days orwhen it has rained recently. Thisreduces the amount of water lost to evaporation and runoff. Plants don't need water for several days after a heavy rain. Native plants in appropriate places do not need supplemental watering. Irrigate only when necessary instead of on a schedule. This minimizes water consumption and reduces the potential for contaminant-laden surface runoff. Apply no more than three-fourths of an inch of water at a time for grass. Lawns need watering when they have a bluish cast or when you can see your footprints after walking across them. Native lawns with native grasses such as carpet grass are desirable since they require little or no watering, fertilizer, or pesticides. Group together plants with similar water requirements. For areas that need more frequent watering, use efficient watering devices (e.g., pop-up sprays, bubblers, drips, microsprays, and soaker hoses). Minimize the size of your lawn by inclosing more "natural areas" in your landscape plan. Reduce watering requirements by using landscape plants that are drought tolerant. Check with your local Cooperative ------- Extension Service for a list of drought-tolerant species suitable for your area. Some suggestions for drought-tolerant species suitable for the Gulf of Mexico region are listed in Table 1. Drip lines under roof eaves and down spouts are particularly susceptible to sediment erosion. Place gravel or plant hardy vegetation under roof eaves. Add downspout attachments to slow and spread out the draining water. This reduces erosion and runoff. Use Chemicals Properly Select a fertilizer that has at least one-fourth of the nitrogen in a slow-release water-insoluble form. Fertilize in late winter, around February. Use the minimal amount of fertilizer necessary, and apply it in small, frequent applica- tions. An application of two pounds of fertil- J\n application of two jzer five times per year is better than five pounds of fertilizer five pounds of fertilizer twice a year. Always read times per year is better and follow label directions. Avoid applying than five pounds of fertilizer to paved surfaces. If any fertilizer is r -1- ¦ inadvertently spread on sidewalks or drive- fertiLizer twice a year. ., „ J ways, sweep it orf before watering. Apply fertilizer when the soil is moist, and then water lightly. The fertilizer will sink into the root zone where it is available to the plants, rather than stay on top of the soil where it can be blown or washed away. Always consider natural alternatives to lawn and gar- den chemicals. Pesticides kill beneficial as well as harmful insects. Biological controls (such as natural predators and companion planting) and a well-planned pest management program can prevent pollution and save money. Some pests can be dislodged merely by forcefully spraying them with a stream of water. Use products with a beneficial bacterium, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, to control cat- erpillars. Instead of chemical pesticides, consider using natural alternatives such as nondetergent insecticidal soaps, garlic, and hot pepper sprays. Always keep lawn and garden chemicals away from surface water. Never spray when it may rain in the same day, and do not water heavily after application. Do not ------- spray on windy days. Be particularly careful in spring or early summer, because many species of wildlife are much more sensitive to toxics during their juvenile stages. Never dump poisonous chemicals into sewers, drains, toilets, or any other connections to wastewater treatment systems.Triple-rinse containers, and apply the water to the treated area. Wrap single containers in several layers of newspaper, tie securely, and place in a covered trash can. Do not burn container— smoke and fumes may be hazardous. The best way to dispose of lawn and garden chemicals is through proper use. Maintain Your Landscape Efficiently Make a compost pile instead of throwing grass clip- pings, leaves, and food waste in the trash. After the leaves, food, and grass decompose, you can use the compost as fertilizer for your garden. Your local county Extension agent can provide you with information on composting. Pull weeds instead of using herbicides. Use mulch to discourage weeds from growing in the first place. Weeds that have started to go to seed and grasses that spread by rhizomes or stolons should not be left in gardens after pulling. Composting may not destroy weeds or their seeds if the pile doesn't heat up enough after they are added. In this case, it's better to put them in the trash or burn them. When mulching around buildings, do not provide a "bridge" between the mulch and wood surfaces in order to discour- age termites. Mow your lawn frequently, and leave the grass clip- pings to decompose on the lawn. Annually, this will provide nutrients equivalent to one or two fertilizer applications. Remove grass clippings within 50 feet of waterways. Never dump grass clippings or other organic material into a waterway. When these materials decay, they remove oxy- gen from the water and can cause fish kills. Weakened plants are susceptible to pests. Make sure the blades on your mower are sharp and adjusted to a high setting to reduce the temporary stress caused by mowing. Mulch around trees to avoid using string trimmers, which can damage bark at the base of the tree. ------- Landscaping With Native Plants You should promote the use of native plants and natural systems in residential and public landscaping projects. These efforts should in- clude the preservation of existing plants and natural systems, the restoration and development of altered landscapes, and the use of native plants as practical landscaping alternatives. A "natural system" can best be thought of as the way plants, topography, and soils relate to each other in an undisturbed state, such as wilderness area. Native plants are naturally adapted to their local soil, moisture, and weather condi- tions. They generally tolerate freeze and have natural resis- tances to insects and disease so they require minimum maintenance (i.e., watering, fertilization, use of pesti- cides). In the past, one of the biggest drawbacks to using native plants in landscapes was their limited availability. This is changing as many conventional nurseries are adding natives to inventories, and specialty nurseries are being established where 50 percent or more of the stock is native. To find a nursery near you that carries native plants, look in the Yellow Pages or ask for recommendations from your local native plant society, arboretum, or nature preserve. A brief list of sources for native plants in the Gulf of Mexico region is included in the "Resources" section of this publi- cation. As with all plants, native plants will fail if planted in wrong soil, light, or moisture conditions. Because of the broad diversity of climate and soil types in the Gulf of Mexico region,you should check with local information sources (e.g., Cooperative Extension Service) when plan- ning your landscape. The following table lists some native plants indigenous to the Gulf of Mexico region; these plants ------- Table 1. Some native plant alternatives for landscaping in the Gulf of Mexico region Name Sun Soil* Drainage Ground covers, ferns, low shrubs Pteridium aquilinum Shade to partial Acid, Dry to moist, does Bracken sand preferred not tolerate flooding Osmunda Cinnamomea Shade to full Acid Wet to moist, Cinnamon fern tolerates shallow water all year Sabal minor Shade to partial Acid to Seasonally wet Dwarf palmetto, alkaline, salt to moist Bush palmetto spray tolerated Herbaceous plants Hibiscus aculeatus Partial to full Acid, sand Moist, tolerates Pineland hibiscus preferred winter flooding Iris fulva Cooper iris Partial to full Acid to neutral Moist, seasonally flooded Hymenocallis liriosme Partial to full Acid Shallow fresh water, Spiderlily 0 to 2 feet deep Climbing vines Bignonia capreolata Crossvine Partial to full Acid Moist to dry, brief flooding tolerated Passiflora incarnata Partial to full Any except Moist to dry Passionflower, saline May pop Lonicera sempervirens Partial to full Acid Moist, brief Coral honeysuckle flooding tolerated Small to medium shrubs Callicarpa americana Shade to full Acid, tolerates Dry to moist American beautyberry, poor soils French mulberry Calycanthus floridus Shade to partial Acid to neutral Moist, flooding Sweetshrub tolerated Clethra alnifolia Partial to full Very acid Wet Clethra, Sweet to acid pepperbush ------- Small to medium shrubs - continued Rhododendron Shade to full Very acid Moist, tolerates austrinum to acid seasonal flooding Yellow azalea Viburnum dentatum Shade to full Very acid Dry Arrowwood to acid Large shrubs, smalt trees Myr 'ica cerifera Partial to full Acid to neutral Wet to dry Wax myrtle, Southern bayberry Ilex vomitoria Shade to full Acid, saline ok Moist to dry Yaupon holly Cercis canadensis Partial to full Acid to neutral Moist to dry Redbud Cornus florida Partial to full Acid to neutral Moist to dry Flowering dogwood Chionanthus virginicus Partial to full Very acid to acid Moist to dry Fringetree, Gray beard Cyrilla racemiflora Shade to full Very acid to acid Wet to moist, still Titi, Leatherwood or running water Large trees Acer rubrum Partial to full Acid to neutral Wet to dry Red Maple Ilex opaca Shade to full Acid to neutral Wet to dry American holly Taxodium distichum Partial to full Acid to neutral Wet, can be Bald cypress inundated all year Nyssa sylvatica Partial to full Acid Moist to wet Blackgum, Black tupelo Que reus virginiana Full Acid to neutral Moist to dry Live oak Magnolia grandiflora Shade to full Acid to neutral Dry Southern magnolia Magnolia virginiana Partial to full Acid Wet to moist Sweetbay *Very acid - pH 4 to 5 Acid - pH 5 to 6 Acid to neutral - pH 6 to 7 12 ------- Resources References and Recommended Reading Aveni, M. el al. 1994. Easy Reference to Sustainable Landscape Management and Water Quality Protection. Virginia Cooperative P^xtension Publication 426-612. Blacksburg, Virginia. Nelson, W.R., Jr. 1980. Designing an Energy-Efficient Home Landscape. Illinois Cooperative Extension Service. University of Illinois at Urbana - Champaign. Perry, J.H. and J.E. Davis. 1993. Selecting Landscape Plants. Mississippi Cooperative Extension Service Publication 666. Mississippi State University, Starkville, Mississippi. Wade, G.L. et al. 1992. Xcriscape'M, A Guide to Developing a Water-Wise Landscape. University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. Athens, Georgia. Wasowski, S. and A. Wasowski. 1994. Gardening With Native Plants of the South. Taylor Publishing Company, Dallas, Texas. Wilson, J. 1992. Landscaping With Wildflowers - An Environmental Approach to Gardening. Houghton Mifflin Company. Boston, Massachusetts; New York, New York. Native Plant Sources Sources of Native Plants and Wildflowers Virginia Native Plant Society P.O. Box 844, Annandale, VA 22003 Commercial Seed Sources for Southeastern Native Plants North Carolina Botanic Garden, UNC-CH Totten Canter 457A, Chapel Hill, NC 27514 Some Sources of Plant Material Native or Adapted to Seashore Conditions South Jersey Resource Conservation and Development Council P.O. Box 676, Hammonton, NJ 08037 Garden Paths P.O. Box 4865, Meridian, MS 39304 Nursery Sources of Native Plants of the Southeastern United States 234 Oak Tree Trail, Wilsonville, AL 35186 Natives Nurseries 320 N. Theard Street, Covington, LA 70433 Telephone - 504-892-5424 Prairie Basse Nursery Rt. 2, Box 491-F, Carencro, LA 70520 Telephone-318-896-9187 ------- Agencies and Organizations To Contact for Further Information National Gulf of Mexico Program Building I 103, Room 202 Stennis Space Center, MS 39529 Telephone - 601-688-3726 "Gulfline II" Electronic Bulletin Board System - 800-235-4662 National Wildflower Research Center 2600 FM 973 North Austin. TX 78725 Telephone - 512-292-4100 Nature Conservancy 1815 North Lynn St. Arlington, VA 22209 Telephone - 703-841-5300 National Xeriscape Council, Inc. P.O. Box 163172 Austin, TX 78716-6225 Telephone - 904-588-3687 Society for Ecological Restoration University of Wisconsin 1207 Seminole Highway Madison. WI 53711 Telephone - 608-262-9547 Soil and Water Conservation Society of America 7515 Northeast Ankeny Road Ankeny, IA 50021 Telephone - 515-289-2331 Texas Native Plant Society of Texas P.O. Box 891 Georgetown, TX 78627 Natural Resources Conservation Service W.R. Poage Federal Building 101 South Main Temple, TX 76501-7682 ------- Texas Cooperative Extension Service Agricultural Education Department Texas A&M University, Mail Stop 2116 College Station, TX 77840 Telephone - 409-845-2951 Louisiana Natural Resources Conservation Service 3737 Government Street Alexandria, LA 71302 Telephone - 318-473-7751 Louisiana Native Plant Society Rt. 1, Box 151 Saline, LA 71070 Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service Plant Science Division P.O. Box 25100 Baton Rouge, LA 70894-5100 Telephone - 504-388-2186 or 504-388-2222 Hilltop Arboretum P.O. Box 82608 Baton Rouge, LA 70884 Mississippi Mississippi Cooperative Extension Service Plant and Soil Sciences Department Box 9555 Mississippi State, MS 39762 Telephone -601-325-2311 Mississippi State University Coastal Research and Extension Center 2710 Beach Blvd. Suite 1-E Biloxi, MS 39531 Telephone- 601-388-4710 GMP Public Information Center - 601-688-7940 Crosby Arboretum P.O. Box 190 Picayune, MS 39466 Natural Resources Conservation Service Dr. A. H. McCoy Federal Building, Suite 1321 100 West Capitol Street Jackson, MS 39269-1399 ------- Mississippi Native Plant Society 202 North Androws Avenue Cleveland, MS 38732 Alabama Alabama Wildflower Society Rt. 2, Box 225 Northport, AL 35476 Natural Resources Conservation Service P.O. Box 311 Auburn, AL 36830 Telephone - 205-887-4535 J. David Williams Extension Horticulturist and Assistant Professor 1 lOFunchess Hall Auburn University, AL 36849-5408 Telephone - 334-844-3032 J.C. Laprade Extension Environmental Specialist 116 Extension Hall Auburn University, AL 36849-5618 Telephone - 334-844-5533 Minamac Wildflower Bog 1399 MacCartee Lane Silverhill, AL 36576 Mobile Botanical Garden P.O. Box 8382 Mobile, AI 36608 Telephone - 334-342-0555 Florida Florida Native Plant Society P.O. Box 6116 Spring Hill, FL 34606 Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences Department of Environmental Horticulture University of Florida P. O. Box 110670 Gainesville, FL 32611-0670 Telephone-904-392-1831 National Resources Conservation Service 2614 Northwest 43rd Street Gainesville, FL 32606-6611 ------- Gulf of Mexico Program Office Building 1103, Room 202 Stennis Space Center, MS 39529-6000 Office (60!) 688-3726 ~ % Primed on Recycled Paper COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE a 1 UNIVERSITY By David D. Burrage, Marine Resources Specialist, Sea Grant Advisory Service Mississippi State University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, age, disability, or veteran status. Publication 2024 Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. ------- |