Weeding
Don't let native and invasive weed species take
over your new lawn
Yon should take a few minutes each week to hand
pull young weeds from your new lawn, flowerbeds
or garden. Don't use herbicides or weed killers on
your new lawn. You may end up with a splotchy
lawn that you will have to reseed.
Controlling the spread of native and invasive weeds
early in your lawn's maturity will save you time
and money in the long run.
Follow-ups
During the first year after the removal process, pro-
ject personnel will be periodically stopping by to
follow up on the progress of your new yard.
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CARING FOR YOUR
NEW LAWN
Questions...?
If you have questions or concerns at any stage of
the removal/restoration process, please don't hesi-
tate to call us!
Your Community Involvement Coordinator
406-293-3690
or
EPA Information Center
108 E. 9th Street
Libby, MT 59923
406-293-6194
Your newly seeded lawn contains a variety of turf grass
available specifically for the Libby/Troy climate.
To ensure great results, we're offering these helpful tips.
The care it receives from you NOW will determine the
degree of success you experience in years to come. With
your help, we are confident that you will soon have a
lawn that is lush and healthy.
During this first growing season, the lawn will develop
a deeper root system if you follow this process.
Increase the frequency you water during periods of hot
or windy weather. Keep in mind that lawn areas ex-
posed to sunlight in close proximity to buildings tend to
diy out quicker. Decrease the watering frequency in
shady areas to avoid moss or mildew, which occurs
where there is not enough sunshine or heat to dry the
grass.
During the first growing season
Make sure someone will properly water your lawn if you
are away for longer than your watering schedule calls
for.
If your lawn is seeded in the fall, it will lay dormant
through the winter, but it is important that you keep it
moist until the ground freezes. Once it freezes, you can
stop watering until spring. When the snow melts and the
frost leaves the ground, you will need to start watering
again. Do not count on spring rains to water your new
lawn.
Mowing
Regular mowing keeps your hrwn looking neat and
growing thick.
Don't mow for the first time until the grass is greater
than 4-inches high. For best results, set the mower
height to at least 3-inches and mow often. Consider pur-
chasing a mulching blade and keep mower blades sharp
for the cleanest cut. Lawns cut with dull blades lose
moisture more rapidly, are more subject to disease, and
take on a lighter, almost grayish cast. This is caused by
the shredded ends of the grass blades drying out and
turning a pale brown in the sun.
Watering
Until grass roots are establishedit is important that
your new lawn stay moist, not wet. Don't let the lawn
dry out. It often takes at least one full year of quality
care for a lawn to become well establishedbut the
first weeks are critical.
The landscaper will apply the hydroseed mix after
broadcast seeding is complete. As the mix dries out (1 to
2 days), it will turn brownish. At this time, you will be-
gin your watering schedule.
Water 15 to 20 minutes twice daily (preferably morning
and evening, not in the heat of the day) until you see
grass growing. Use a sprinkler that waters lightly to
ensure that you are not disturbing the seed/mulch mix
and to avoid ponding.
After two weeks, when you see new grass, you should
start to water for longer periods of time and only two to
three times a week. Eventually, you will be watering
once a week for 1 to 2 hours or longer in the morning
hours.
***Please Note: For new lawns seeded the
previous year, this first fertilizer applica-
tion is essential for promoting new root
growth and should be applied no later
than April 15th. Fertilizing this way will
reduce moisture stress on your new seed-
lings during the higher temperatures of
late spring and summer days.
Fertilizing
Feed your lawn to keep it healthy!
30 to 45 days after emergence of grass***
Your new lawn was fertilized at the time of seeding.
We suggest that you fertilize again within 30 to 45
days after emergence applying a fertilizer such as a
20-10-10-10 at a rate of 10 pounds per 1000 ft2. An
application of a "weed and feed" type fertilizer or a
slow release based fertilizer is not recommended
until your lawn is well-established* This could be
twelve to eighteen months after the first seeding.
Once your lawn is established, your annual fertiliza-
tion schedule should look something like this:
Early spring - March 1st to April 15th
The first application of fertilizer should not be slow
release based and should contain sulfur to help re-
duce the incidence of fungal diseases. We recom-
mend a balanced nutrition fertilizer with at least 18-
20% nitrogen and 5% sulfate. Rates will vaiy—
please refer to the label on the fertilizer container.
Organic fertilizers, are good choices if you prefer
non-chemical solutions.
Early summer - Memorial Day to June 15th
We recommend that you apply a slow release fertil-
izer containing at least 24% nitrogen and 5% sulfur
at a rate based on manufacture recommendations.

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Please remember to water and fertil-
ize your yard!
To ensure positive results it is essen-
tial to water and fertilize your new
yard to at least the minimum listed in
this brochure.
Early fall & pre-dormancy - Labor Day
& end of October
Apply a fertilizer containing higher amount of
phosphate and potash such as a triple sixteen
(16-16-16-7S) at 7-10 pounds per 1000 ft2.
Apply a heavier rate around the end of October,
about 10-12 pounds per 1000 ft2,
*How to tell if your lawn is well-established
For well established lawns approximately 3 years
post restoration with weed problems, now is the time-
to use a "weed and feed" type fertilizer.
•	No bare spots are observed and mowing occurs at
least once a week
•	When you walk on the grass it feels sponge- or
carper-like.
All areas remediated by the EPA will be re-
seeded using a seed mixture, taking into consid-
eration your land use and lawn maintenance
requirements. See the other side of this brochure
for the seed mixes offered.
The reseeding procedure combines broadcast
seeding and hydro seeding. Hvdroseed contains
seed, paper mulch and water, and is sprayed
directly onto carefully prepared soil. With
proper care, a lawn seeded this way can be ro-
bust and healthy in a short period of time and
will be resistant to pests and adverse weather.
AVAILABLE SEED MIXES
Playground Mix
Kootenai National
Forest Mix
Pasture Mix
Wildflower Mix
Maintenance Effort: High
Use Recommendations:
For larger areas where a nice lawn is
desired, but will not be watered
regularly once established.
Seed Ratio*:
48% Perennial Ryegrass
27% Creeping Red Fescue
25% Kentucky Bluegrass
Initial Care:
(first growing season)
Seed only in the spring and fall; wa-
ter as necessary to keep moist until
germination. If spring seeded, keep
moist throughout first growing sea-
son for best results.
Long-term Care:
(one year from establishment)
Requires regular fertilizing; will go
dormant (brown) through the heat of
the summer; will stay green if wa-
tered regularly. Low level of weed
control.
Maintenance Effort: Medium
Use Recommendations:
For areas that will be used for graz-
ing and foraging livestock; can also
be used in outlying areas that will
not be maintained.
Seed Ratio*:
38% Orchard Grass
30% Climax Timothy
15% Perennial Ryegrass
17% Smooth Brome Grass
Initial Care:
(first growing season)
Water as necessary to keep moist
until germination. Water during first
growing season for best results.
Long-term Care:
(one year from establishment)
Requires regular water and fertilizer
(less than lawn) for lush growth.
Low level of weed control.
Maintenance Effort: Easy
Use Recommendations:
For areas that will not be mowed or
maintained after the area is estab-
lished. This mix can be toxic to live-
stock.
Seed Ratio*:
25% Hard or Sheep Fescue
20% Sandberg (Canby) Bluegrass
15% Prairie Junegrass
5% Lewis Blue Flax
35% Montana Wildflower mix
Initial Care:
(first growing season)
Should only be seeded before the
onset of winter. If spring seeded,
keep soil moist throughout first
growing season for best results.
Long-term Care:
(one year from establishment)
Will not require any maintenance.
Low level of weed control.
Maintenance Effort: Easy
Use Recommendations:
For areas that are a buffer between
forest and lawn and/or low mainte-
nance areas; does not need to be
maintained once the grass is estab-
lished.
Seed Ratio*:
50% Aimual Ryegrass
24% Hard or Sheep Fescue
26% Orchardgrass
Initial Care:
(first growing season)
Water as necessary to keep moist
until germination. If spring seeded,
keep soil moist throughout first
growing season for best results.
Long-term Care:
(one year from establishment)
Little or no maintenance is required.
For best results, fertilize once per
year in the spring. Low level of
weed control.
*Seed varieties may be adjusted based on recommendations from the seed specialist.
Revised July 2013

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